Archives par étiquette : installation

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X axis belt setup

List of parts

  • 3 M3x20 screw
  • (Scalar XL) 1 M3x50 screw
  • (Scalar M) 1 M3x30 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 M3 washer
  • 2 plastic washers
  • 1 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic cage for 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic fork stretcher
  • 1m40 GT2 2mm belt
  • (Scalar XL) 1 XCA 10 plastic support
  • (Scalar M) 1 XCA 8 plastic support
  • 1 GT2 16 teeth pulleys
  • 5 cable ties
  • 1 stepper motor
  • [provided] 1 allen key
  • [not provided] 1 cruciform screw diver
  • [not provided] 1 cutting pliers or pair of scissors

 

Insert the bearing inside the plastic cage

 

 

 

 


Insert the plastic washers on the bearing

 

 

 

 


Place the bearing block inside the Fork plastic support as shown on the picture

 

 

 

 


Insert a  M3x20 screw + M3 washer and then close the whole system with a M3 nut.

 

 

 

 


If the carriage is already mounted you can scroll down to skip this part.

On X Axis slightly space the linear bearings and move them on the center on the axis.

 

 

 

 


The following steps explain how to assemble the X carriage called XCA 10 for Scalar XL and XCA 8 for Scalar M. You can now check that it properly fit on the bearings.

 

 

 

 


Place on the carriage 3 cable ties. In order to make things easier, be careful to properly place the cable tie heads on the outside of the plastic part as shown on the picture.

Also make sure the heads have at least 1 or 2cm of free length, this will makes things easier later on when you will tight them up.

 

 


The back view will give you more access to the cable ties and will make it easier to handle them.

 

 

 

 


Tight the cable ties so that the ties heads stay at the outside of the part.This will allows to have more free room for the belt later on.

 

 

 


Front view, the carriage looks like the picture.

Notice the cable ties that enroll the bearing.

 

 

 


Now take a stepper motor and 3 M3x20mm screws

 

 

 

 


Place the stepper motor on the left of the X axis.

The wires from the stepper motor needs to be oriented toward the machine .

 

 

 


Screw it entirely on it’s support.

 

 

 

 


The back view shows you how to position the cables. They will then be place inside the aluminum extrusion slot later on.

 

 

 


Now , install the pulley on the motor axis. Place it as shown on the picture so that the thicker part of the pulley is facing the opposite of the motor. This will allow you to properly align the pulley’s teeth with the belt slot on the stepper motor support.

 

 

 


This side you should help you understand how to align the pulley with the belt slot.

 

 

 

 


Now take the belt stretcher that you assembled at the beginning of this chapter.

 

 

 

 


Scalar M: Take also a M3x30 screw, a washer and a M3 nut.

Scalar XL: Take also a M3x50 screw, a washer and a M3 nut.

Place the nut inside the belt stretcher, there is a dedicated slot on the side of it.

The washer will be mounted on the screw and will help to tighten the stretcher.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Use the tensioner support and place it at the end of the X axis smooth rods.It’s purpose is to make sure the tensioner will force on the X axis smooth rods ends and not on the Horizontal Z axis smooth rods.

 

 


Place the screw and it’s washer on the side of the right side of the X axis.

She should be free and be fully inside.

 

 

 


Now place the stretcher inside the dedicated slot on the same plastic part.

Notice the triangular shape slot. The stretcher should be able to get inside properly.

 

 


Slightly screw the stretcher with the side screw.

The purpose here is to make sure the stretcher is in place and that we have the maximum amount of possible movement to stretch the belt later on.

 

 

 


A side picture showing the gap between the stretcher and the X axis plastic part. The screw should be able to move freely when moving the stretcher. (the tensioner support is missing on this picture)

 

 

 

 


This picture shows you how much length is available once the stretcher is fully pushed inside it’s slot. (the tensioner support is missing on this picture)

 

 

 

 


Depending how the belt is provided you will need to cut the 2.5m meter length of it or they will already be provided with the proper length.

 

 

 


Take the 1m40 belt (cut the 2.5meter belt at 1m40 if the belt is provided uncut).

Also take 2 cable ties

 

 

 


Insert the belt inside the slot of the stepper motor holder plastic part.

Insert it at the bottom of the bearings, the belt’s teeth facing the bearings.

 

 


On the other side, handle the belt so that it goes around the pulley.

With the belt’s teeth always facing the pulley.

 

 

 


Another view showing the belt

 

 

 

 


Take care to push the belt on top of the bearings. The bearing will keep the belt straight to the X axis carriage so that when the motor pull or push the belt, it’s always rectilinear and parallel to the smooth rods.

Then pull the belt so that at least 10cm are available in the void.

 

 


Now go the other side of the X axis, and take the bottom part of your belt.

Push it behind the X carriage.

 

 

 


Now insert it behind the stretcher. If you struggle you can unscrew the stretcher, pass the belt and then screw back the stretcher.

 

 

 


Here is a picture of the belt once inserted behind the stretcher.

 

 

 

 


Bring both ends of the belt together.

Those 2 ends must be located at the top of the overall belt assembly.

If you have the proper length, the belt should slight cross  with enough free belt.

Place it in the center of the X carriage

 


Take one end of your belt and push it inside the tight gap dedicated to keep the belt into position, between the 2 linear bearings.You might need to force a little bit so that the belt is slightly smashed between the plastic.

You can use your nails to push the belt up to the end of the slot.

 

 


Then round it so that the belt teeth can join. make sure you have extra length, you will need it to secure the belt later on.

 

 

 

 


Do the same on the other side of the belt.

At this moment try to pull the belt a maximum already so that it’s quite stretched .

Whatever you do, the belt will keep a small flexibility. It’s normal, the side stretcher will cope with that later on.

 


Insert a cable tie and start to close it but keep it loose. One side of the belt must fully be inside the closing cable tie. the picture illustrate this..

 

 

 


Now close the cable tie but make sure the belt stay aligned and parallel to the smooth rods. The belt must always be aligned at the top to keep the mechanical motion of the carriage linear.

 

 

 


Do the same with the other side of the belt.

 

 

 

 


Once finished it should look like the photo.

 

 

 

 


Take a screw diver and stretch the belt max . Make sure not to bend the Z axis however.

You know that your belt is stretched when it seems very hard by pressing on it.

Considering the length of the belt, even when properly stretched, it might still seem a little bit flexible or might vibrate a little bit. It’s normal it shouldn’t bother that much the printing but might impact the maximum acceleration you can use on that axis.

 

 

extruder assembly on the chassis

Special Note:

This documentation was made for Greg’s extruder model and some additions were made to fit the currently provided MK8 bowden extruder.

Bowden MK8 extruder

Greg’s extruder assembled

List of parts

  • 1 Extrudeur already assembled (see full assembly here ici)
  • 2 M6x12mm screws
  • 2 T-nuts
  • [provided] 1 allen key

 

Start by preparing 2 set of screw/t-nuts so that they are located below the big gear wheel.

 

 

 


The goal here is to place it right next to the power supply unit on the top aluminum extrusion.

If you look at the printer from the front, the power supply should get to your right.

On this photo this is the back view.

 


Place the extruder so that the screws start to get inside the slots located below the aluminum extrusion.

The picture shows you an example.

 

 

For MK8 Extruder the process is very similar as shown on this picture, except that the motor is located in the opposite side.

 

 

 

 

 


The side view (right view) show the location of the T-Nuts, they should perfectly fit inside the extrusion slot.

If you already placed some side cover, remove it slowly with a flat screw diver, it’s interesting that it’s removed so that it will be easier for you to make sure the screws are properly attached. Otherwise the T-Nut on the edge of the extrusion might not turn and will not self lock.

 

For MK8 Extruder, again it’s very similar.

The stepper motor is below the top extrusion profile.

 

 

 

 


Here a zoom showing how it should fit inside. Those 2 screws will make the most of the work keeping this extruder in place.

 

 

 


Once properly inside the slots, screw it and add a side set of Screw+T-Nut .

You should be able to easily insert those even if sometimes the T-Nut won’t align properly with the screw.

 

 


Now screw it. It will maintain properly the extruder on the side and prevent it from vibrating.

 

 

 


Now you can put back the side cover.

The extruder might slightly go beyond the extrusion. So the side cover should align with the side of the extruder.

 

 

 


Push it in place to finish the assembly.

 

 

 

 

For MK8 extruder the back view should look like this picture.

 

Hot End Installation (E3D V6)

This page is dedicated to the hot end Installation

Hot End Installation

Part list :

  • 1 x assembled hot end (here E3D V6)
  • 1 x inductance probe
  • 4 x plastic screws (provided with hot end)
  • 1 x fan provided with hot end
  • 4 x M3X20 screws thermoplastic
  • 3 x M3X8 screws thermoplastic
  • 1 couple of plastic parts to support the hot end (here with the marking E3DI andE3DII)
  • (not provided) 1 screws diver

Update:

Hot end E3D supportSince September of 2016 you should get this holder in the kit.

This holder is re-using the original E3D fan holder .

The assembly on the chassis is very similar to the following procedure, just consider inserting the Blue part on the hot end heat sink first.

Look closely to the red arrow and you will notice that the holder has to be installed so that the non flat side is set toward down.

The following picture should show you more details.

 

hot end suppot for E3Dv6

 

 

 

 

 

hot end suppot for E3Dv6

 

 

 

 

 

hot end suppot for E3Dv6

 

 

 

 

 

 


Installation of E3Dv6 hot end on the carriage

X Axis Carriage

X Axis carriage

The goal here is to screw the hot end support on the X axis carriage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Take the screw diver and also the plastic part marked « E3DII« .(Note on the new plastic parts there is no marking because the side of the plastic part is used for the hot end fan.)

This part links the X axis carriage and the hot end .

It’s like a mould with an imprint for securing the hot end in place.

 


 

The X axis carriage also has several rows of 3mm holes.

Those holes allows to screw the previous part in place. Depending on the height of your heat bed and also of the one of your hot end nozzle you might want to use a different set of holes to increase or decrease the height of the hot end of a few millimetres.

In our current situation we are going to use the holes located on the outside of the part on the lowest row. The picture will confirm the holes to use.

 

 

Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffanteOn the new version of the support no marking is visible

it should look like this one

 

 

 

 


 

The picture here shows the second hole to use to secure the hot end support .

 

 

 

 


Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffante

Insert 2 M3X20 thermoplastic screws inside the holes on the side in order to keep the system attached

1 M3x8mm thermoplastic screw comes to strengthen the whole support

 

 

 

 

Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffante

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now take the inductor support.

 

 

 

 

Note that on the new version of the plastic part, the inductive probe support has been removed and placed on the base holder instead.

 

 

Start to insert the 2 x M3x20 Thermoplastic screws inside the dedicated holes. The picture tells you which one to use.

Hot end clampHere is a picture showing the new compact plastic clamp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Assemblage du bloque de tête chauffante

Assemblage du bloque de tête chauffante

This new plastic part is clamping the hot end inside it’s groove.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hot End InstallationOnce finalized the assembly should look like this

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PDF 3D:Final assembly of the hot end support for E3D6

 

Update:

Skip this part if you have the new Holder system

 

 

 


Place this support on top of the hot end and don’t touch the Screws yet!

Place the 30mm fan (here on the picture  40mm) on the right side of the assembly.

Use 4 wood screws and slightly screw them loose so that the fan keep it’s place.

 

 


The front view should look like this.

No screws are tighten yet.

The fan will hold properly the inductor holder.

If you tighten the inductor holder first, the fan hole might not be aligned any more with it’s screws.

 


 

Once you have checked that all is aligned you can tighten the fan screws.

Note that the the screws of the inductor holder are yet not tighten.

 

 

 


 

Now you can finish to screw the inductor probe support.

The left screw should allow you to go a little bit further than the right one. It should make sure that the hot end is properly hold in place.

 

 


 

Now take the blower fan support as well as 2x M3x8mm screws (the shorter ones!)

This part allows to keep in place the blower fan in a vertical manner. It also guide the airflow toward the hot-end’s nozzle tip.

 

 


 

Same here, start to insert the screws until they reach the other side of the plastic part.

The holes we are using here are the one at the 2nd row of holes starting from the bottom.

Note that this part was made for AluHotEnd  and mostly applies to E3D hot end.

As E3D hot end size is different from AluHotEnd you may need to use another set of holes. If you are not sure read the following steps below before doing anything.

This design allows to adjust the height of the air flow based on the hot end you are using.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Here the screw driver shows you the holes to use to fix the blower fan holder.

They are the 2 holes located below the one used to secure the inductor support in place.

 

 

On this picture, the second hole to use.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now place the blower fan holder so that the screws are aligned with their holes.

Here also make sure to go easy with the screws.

 

 

 


The side views of the assembly

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

The fan shroud should point to the nozzle tip.

 

 

 

 

 


Now take the blower fan

 

 

 

 

 


Unroll the wires.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Place it on it’s support so that the fan output is placed toward the bottom.

At the top you will find 2 holes slightly shifted.

Place the fan so that the holding hole is aligned with 1 of the 2 holes on the support. Take the one you feel is best.

 

 


Use the last M4x20 screw (the bigger one) to keep the fan in place.

here we choose the top hole.

 

 

 


Once the blower fan in place, the setup should look like this picture.

 

 

 

 


 

The inductor probe comes last.

 

 

 

 

 


Remove the bottom nut and washer.

Take some time to place the remaining washer and nut slightly above the middle of the probe thread.

 

 

 


Insert the probe inside the last dedicated hole.

 

 

 

 

 


Try to place it so that the bottom blue end cap of it is slightly above the hot end tip. We will come back to it alter on when you will setup your electronics.

 

 

 

 


You can put back the washer and it’s nut to secure the probe in place.

 

 

 

 

 


Finish by placing the PTFE tube inside the pneumatic connector and you are done.

 

 

 

 

Assemblage du plateau chauffant

Liste des pièces :

  • 1 plateau chauffant silicone
  • 1 plaque d’aluminium
  • 1 feuille d’isolation
  • 1 thermistor câblé
  • 1 stylo
  • 1 paire de ciseaux
  • 1 carte rigide au format carte de crédit
  •  rouleau de polyamide 50mm

 

Positionner l’élément chauffant en silicone (orange) au milieu du plateau en aluminium.

Faites un repère sur le plateau aluminium afin de le coller au centre de ce dernier.

 

 

 


Retournez l’élément chauffant afin de retirer le film de protection collant au dos de ce dernier.

 

 

 


Maintenant décoller délicatement la bande de protection 3M de l’élément chauffant.

Collez ensuite ce dernier au centre du plateau en aluminium.

 

 

 


Prenez maintenant le rouleau de polyamide et coupez une bande la longueur équivalente à la largeur de l’élément chauffant.

Avec une carte dure comme une carte de crédit ou une carte de fidélité, collez la bande de polyamide au niveau de l’extrémité de l’élément chauffant à l’opposé du connecteur.

 

 

 

Ceci à pour but de sécuriser l’élément chauffant sur le plateau en aluminium en plus de l’adhésif 3M que vous venez de coller.

 

 

 

 


Le résultat devrait ressembler à la photo.

 

 

 

 


 

Positionner le thermistor comme sur la photo de manière à positionner son extrémité au milieu de l’élément chauffant en faisant passer son câble le plus près possible du câble de l’élément chauffant.

 

 


Sécurisez le thermistor avec du polyamide afin que ce dernier reste coller au centre de l’élément chauffant

 

 

 


Avec un collier de serrage, rassembler les deux câbles qui sortent du plateau et fixez les ensemble . Faites en sorte que le câble du thermistor soit toujours à plat.

Positionner le collier de serrage en dehors de la zone du plateau en aluminium.

 

 


 

Avec du polyamide vous pouvez sécuriser le reste de l’élément chauffant (à gauche du la photo).

 

 

 


 

Positionner à présent l’isolant par dessus l’élément chauffant. L’isolant doit avoir la partie ressemblant à un feuillard d’aluminium contre l’élément chauffant afin de renvoyer le rayonnement thermique vers le plateau en aluminium.

 

 

 


 

A présent prenez un stylo/marqueur, et repérez la position du thermistor sous l’isolant.

Une fois repéré vous devrez couper la partie de l’isolant qui se situe sous le thermistor.

L’isolant, en plus de faire office d’isolant thermique, permet de compenser la sur épaisseur des câbles qui dépassent de l’élément chauffant et peuvent faire bomber le plateau en aluminium par la suite.

 


Retournez tout le bloc que vous venez de préparer.

En regardant la machine par l’arrière, faites en sorte de positionner le câble du plateau chauffant sur la droite.

Vous pouvez fixer tout le bloque avec 4 clips papier comme sur la photo.

 

 


 

En principe le câblage sortant sur le côté du plateau devrait ressembler à la photo et l’écartement entre le câble et le plateau devrait être le minimum possible.

 

 

 

 


En positionnant le câble du plateau, faites en sorte de la passer en dessous du plateau comme sur la photo.

 

 

 

 

 


Sous le plateau, insérez le clips pour câble (ici la pièce bleu)  et prenez soins de regrouper le câble de l’élément chauffant et celui du thermistor.

 

 

 

 


Maintenant fixer le serre câble sur le dessous du plateau.

Le but de cette pièce est d’être sur que le câble repose bien au dessus d’un des deux supports de roulement (ici en gris) afin d’éviter tout frottement et détérioration de la gaine orange lorsque le plateau se déplace.

Notez la position du tendeur de courroie,  Le serre câble se positionne donc au niveau du roulement le plus à l’opposé du tendeur de courroie. La vue proposée est donc celle de l’arrière de la machine

Dans cette position faites monter et descendre le plateau au maximum et vérifier que le câble orange reste bien à l’écart de la courroie du plateau

 

 


Raccordement du plateau au relais statique

Liste des pièces :

  • 4 pinces à papier
  • 1 relais static AC
  • 2 écrous marteau compatible M4
  • 2 vis M4x12
  • (non fournie) 1 tourne vis
  • (fournie) 1 clé allen
  •  clip en plastique

 


En regardant le châssis par derrière, faites passer le câble de l’élément chauffant sur la droite en exposant les cosses sur le côté du châssis.

 

 

 

 


Fixez le relais static en positionnant les deux borniers ayant le marquage en forme de vague le plus à l’extérieur du châssis. Placez les borniers avec les marquages « + » et « – » du côté du profilé verticale.

 

 

 


Dévissez les borniers correspondants au marquage en forme de vague et connectez y les cosses disponibles au niveau du câble du plateau chauffant.

Peu importe quel cosse (rouge ou bleu dans ce cas) vous prenez cela fonctionnera dans les deux cas.

Attention: Faites bien attention de connecter ces cosses (rouge ou bleu) sur les borniers avec le marquage en forme de vague noté 24 ~380VAC

 

 


Connectez la deuxième cosses au dernier bornier compatible.

 

 

 

 

 


Prenez la pièce plastique servant à sécuriser les borniers.

Cette pièce devrait avoir le marquage « SSRC »

 

 

 

 


 

Une partie du cache possède une petite chambre dont le but est d’isoler les borniers du relais statique connectés au 220V.

Le câble orange doit se positionner comme sur la photo.

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Installation de l’alimentation 12V 360W

Liste des pièces

  • Bloc d’alimentation 220V – 12V 360W 30A précédemment monté (voir article)
  • Support plastique + Voltmètre LCD
  • Connecteur d’alimentation IEC + porte fusible et interrupteur
  • 3 vis M6x12
  • 3 écrous marteau M6
  • 2 vis M4x10
  • 1 Support plastique d’alimentation
  • 1 support plastique latéral
  • [fourni] 1 clef allen
  • [non fourni] 1 tourne vis cruciforme

Prenez le support d’alimentation qui permet de la soutenir.

Insérez 2 jeux de vis M6X12 et écrous marteau.

 

 

 


Repérez les deux trous qui serviront à fixer le support.

 

 

 

 


D’un côté de l’alimentation vous trouverez en bas de l’alimentation, seulement 1 seul trou et de l’autre côté vous en trouverez 2.

 

 

 


Prenez maintenant les 2 vis M4x10mm

 

 

 

 


Positionnez le support de tel manière que les 2 trous prévues pour les vis M4 soient alignés avec ceux de l’alimentation

 

 

 


Commencez par visser la première vis afin de stabiliser le support.

 

 

 

 


Maintenant visser la deuxième vis.

 

 

 

 


Approchez doucement l’alimentation du montant droit de l’imprimante.

Lorsque les équerres de fixation du montant vertical sont en face de vous, ça correspond à la gauche de l’imprimante comme sur la photo.

Vous devriez pouvoir glisser les écrou marteau du support dans la gorge du profilé.

 


Une fois dans la gorge, l’alimentation devrait être parfaitement parallèle au montant du profilé.

 

 

 

 


Alignez le haut de l’alimentation avec le haut du châssis. Si vous avez vissé le support d’alimentation correctement dans les étapes précédentes, le bouton et le connecteur d’alimentation IEC doivent se trouver au plus près du profilé possible.

 

 

 


Maintenant,  visser la première vis M6 afin de soutenir le bloc d’alimentation.

 

 

 

 


La deuxième vis vient sécuriser le maintien du bloc.

 

 

 

 


Prenez le support plastique qui permet de tenir latéralement le bloc d’alimentation.

Insérez lui un couple Vis M6x12 et écrous marteau et préparez le comme sur la photo.

 

 

 


Vissez-le à présent à l’intérieur du profilé, le plus haut possible. Ici il est à ras de l’équerre en métal.

Le support plastique est souple, donc même si à première vue vous sentez que vous ne pouvez pas le positionner, essayez de le tordre légèrement afin que l’extrémité du support se positionne correctement derrière l’alimentation.