Archives par étiquette : hot end

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First use cautions

Introduction

This page  purpose is to help you to check a few points before using your 3D printer in order to avoid any possible known issues.

Check that the stepper motors are properly connected to the stepper drivers on the Electronic board..

Check that the stepper motors are properly connected on your electronic board before powering on. The drivers don’t support to be powered on without any motors attached.

In certain cases you can damage them and the stepper motors will react in a random manner.

Precautions to take before powering your heatbed.

Certains heatbeds can use up more than 200W.

Depending on how the heatbed it driven, you will need to check that the driving power transistor is properly cooled down, and that there is a proper airflow around it.

On Scalar M, the heatbed is conected directly on the power transistor.

It’s mandatory that the 80cm fan inside the electronic box is connected, powered and generates a good airflow.

On Scalar XL, the 700W 220V heatbed is powered through a separate 25A solid state relay.

The 80 cm fan is then used to cool down the stepper motors drivers in order to keep optimal performances.

Keep the stepper drivers always close to ambiant temperature.

Stepper motors drivers are responsible to properly driver the stepper motors. When they get hot, the avaiable power drops and you might get some missed steps after a few hours of printing.

PLA and FullMetal hot ends (E3D or AllInOne)

With Full metal hot ends, if you are using PLA, it’s MANDATORY to keep the hot end’s heatsink cool.

These hot ends are provided with auxiliary fans wich purpose is to keep them close to ambiant temperature.

if the fan is not running, is stopped or that the airflow is not enougth, PLA will expand inside the hot end.

Expnading PLA inside your hot end will, if you are lucky, only expand on a small portion of the hot end. You should still be able to push or pull it from the hotend manually using some pliers.

In other cases, it can expand out of the hot end’s heatsink.

in this case you will need to deassemble the hotend, clean it and fix your fan cooling issue.

Precautions to take before switching off your 3D printer

Some plastics will expand on full metal hot ends if you switch off your 3D printer while the hot end is still hot.

To avoid possible issues with plastic expantion, make sure the hot end temperature goes below 75°C before switching off your 3D printer

Setup of the hot end auxiliary fan

List of parts :

  • 2 M3X25mm screws
  • 4 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 nuts
  • 1 blower fan
  • 1 GoPro fan support
  • 1 Fan shroud for blower fan

Take  1 screw,  1 nut and 2 washers as well as the GoPro fan support.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now screw the GoPro Fan support on the blower fan, using the hole just next to the blower fan power wires .

Assemble it as follow: screw-washer –hole — washer – nut.

 

 

 


This photo shows the other side of the fan.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Place the whole assembly on the compatible support on the HotEnd block The photo shows you how to do it.

 

 

 


Secure it using the remaining fixation elements (M3x25mm screw, washer and nut).

You can place the screw head any way you want.

 

 

 


Now, tighten the whole thing enough so that the fan can be oriented but can stay in desired orientation.

 

 

 

 


Install the fan shroud as shown on the picture. This last part is to cool down  and harden the plastic just after it exists the hot end nozzle. You will need it when you will use PLA.

 

 

 


 

Rotate the fan block and adjust the orientation so that the blown air will cool down the bottom base of the nozzle.

Warning:  If the orientation is too much toward the hot end’s heater block, the fan will prevent the heater block from heating the plastic filament enough.

 

 


 

 

Hot End Installation (E3D V6)

This page is dedicated to the hot end Installation

Hot End Installation

Part list :

  • 1 x assembled hot end (here E3D V6)
  • 1 x inductance probe
  • 4 x plastic screws (provided with hot end)
  • 1 x fan provided with hot end
  • 4 x M3X20 screws thermoplastic
  • 3 x M3X8 screws thermoplastic
  • 1 couple of plastic parts to support the hot end (here with the marking E3DI andE3DII)
  • (not provided) 1 screws diver

Update:

Hot end E3D supportSince September of 2016 you should get this holder in the kit.

This holder is re-using the original E3D fan holder .

The assembly on the chassis is very similar to the following procedure, just consider inserting the Blue part on the hot end heat sink first.

Look closely to the red arrow and you will notice that the holder has to be installed so that the non flat side is set toward down.

The following picture should show you more details.

 

hot end suppot for E3Dv6

 

 

 

 

 

hot end suppot for E3Dv6

 

 

 

 

 

hot end suppot for E3Dv6

 

 

 

 

 

 


Installation of E3Dv6 hot end on the carriage

X Axis Carriage

X Axis carriage

The goal here is to screw the hot end support on the X axis carriage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Take the screw diver and also the plastic part marked « E3DII« .(Note on the new plastic parts there is no marking because the side of the plastic part is used for the hot end fan.)

This part links the X axis carriage and the hot end .

It’s like a mould with an imprint for securing the hot end in place.

 


 

The X axis carriage also has several rows of 3mm holes.

Those holes allows to screw the previous part in place. Depending on the height of your heat bed and also of the one of your hot end nozzle you might want to use a different set of holes to increase or decrease the height of the hot end of a few millimetres.

In our current situation we are going to use the holes located on the outside of the part on the lowest row. The picture will confirm the holes to use.

 

 

Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffanteOn the new version of the support no marking is visible

it should look like this one

 

 

 

 


 

The picture here shows the second hole to use to secure the hot end support .

 

 

 

 


Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffante

Insert 2 M3X20 thermoplastic screws inside the holes on the side in order to keep the system attached

1 M3x8mm thermoplastic screw comes to strengthen the whole support

 

 

 

 

Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffante

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now take the inductor support.

 

 

 

 

Note that on the new version of the plastic part, the inductive probe support has been removed and placed on the base holder instead.

 

 

Start to insert the 2 x M3x20 Thermoplastic screws inside the dedicated holes. The picture tells you which one to use.

Hot end clampHere is a picture showing the new compact plastic clamp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Assemblage du bloque de tête chauffante

Assemblage du bloque de tête chauffante

This new plastic part is clamping the hot end inside it’s groove.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hot End InstallationOnce finalized the assembly should look like this

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PDF 3D:Final assembly of the hot end support for E3D6

 

Update:

Skip this part if you have the new Holder system

 

 

 


Place this support on top of the hot end and don’t touch the Screws yet!

Place the 30mm fan (here on the picture  40mm) on the right side of the assembly.

Use 4 wood screws and slightly screw them loose so that the fan keep it’s place.

 

 


The front view should look like this.

No screws are tighten yet.

The fan will hold properly the inductor holder.

If you tighten the inductor holder first, the fan hole might not be aligned any more with it’s screws.

 


 

Once you have checked that all is aligned you can tighten the fan screws.

Note that the the screws of the inductor holder are yet not tighten.

 

 

 


 

Now you can finish to screw the inductor probe support.

The left screw should allow you to go a little bit further than the right one. It should make sure that the hot end is properly hold in place.

 

 


 

Now take the blower fan support as well as 2x M3x8mm screws (the shorter ones!)

This part allows to keep in place the blower fan in a vertical manner. It also guide the airflow toward the hot-end’s nozzle tip.

 

 


 

Same here, start to insert the screws until they reach the other side of the plastic part.

The holes we are using here are the one at the 2nd row of holes starting from the bottom.

Note that this part was made for AluHotEnd  and mostly applies to E3D hot end.

As E3D hot end size is different from AluHotEnd you may need to use another set of holes. If you are not sure read the following steps below before doing anything.

This design allows to adjust the height of the air flow based on the hot end you are using.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Here the screw driver shows you the holes to use to fix the blower fan holder.

They are the 2 holes located below the one used to secure the inductor support in place.

 

 

On this picture, the second hole to use.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now place the blower fan holder so that the screws are aligned with their holes.

Here also make sure to go easy with the screws.

 

 

 


The side views of the assembly

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

The fan shroud should point to the nozzle tip.

 

 

 

 

 


Now take the blower fan

 

 

 

 

 


Unroll the wires.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Place it on it’s support so that the fan output is placed toward the bottom.

At the top you will find 2 holes slightly shifted.

Place the fan so that the holding hole is aligned with 1 of the 2 holes on the support. Take the one you feel is best.

 

 


Use the last M4x20 screw (the bigger one) to keep the fan in place.

here we choose the top hole.

 

 

 


Once the blower fan in place, the setup should look like this picture.

 

 

 

 


 

The inductor probe comes last.

 

 

 

 

 


Remove the bottom nut and washer.

Take some time to place the remaining washer and nut slightly above the middle of the probe thread.

 

 

 


Insert the probe inside the last dedicated hole.

 

 

 

 

 


Try to place it so that the bottom blue end cap of it is slightly above the hot end tip. We will come back to it alter on when you will setup your electronics.

 

 

 

 


You can put back the washer and it’s nut to secure the probe in place.

 

 

 

 

 


Finish by placing the PTFE tube inside the pneumatic connector and you are done.

 

 

 

 

Montage de la tête E3D V6 Metal

Liste des pièces

  • 1 bloc de chauffe
  • 1 barrière thermique inox
  • 1 buse en laiton
  • 1 radiateur aluminium
  • 1 thermistor (100K Semitec 104GT2)
  • 1 cartouche chauffante 12V 40W
  • 1 ventilateur 12V 30x30x10mm
  • 1 gaine en fibre de verre haute température (pour le thermistor)
  • 2 ferrules
  • 1 vis M3x3mm
  • 1 rondelle M3
  • 1 vis M3x10
  • 1 tube PTFE 80cm

Montage de la buse:

  • Insérez la buse dans le bloc chauffant , avec la tête hexagonale le plus près possible du plus petit trou latéral servant au thermistor.
  • Serrez très légèrement à fond la buse sur le bloc de chauffe, puis dé vissez la de 1/4 à 1/2 tour.

 

 


  • Maintenant vissez le canon/la  barrière thermique dans le même trou que celui de la buse.
    Vous devez la serrez jusqu’à arriver en buté sur la buse.

 

 

 


  • Prenez 2 clés à molettes ou 2 clés plates de la bonne taille puis serrez très légèrement.
    Attention: veillé à serrer très légèrement, car le pas de vis est très fragile. De plus le serrage final se fera plus tard une fois la tête chauffante à haute température.

 

 


 

Assemblage du thermistor:

  • Saisissez-vous de la gaine bleu en fibre de verre.
  • Coupez-la en 2 longueurs de 35mm.
  • Insérez les sur les pattes du thermistor.
    Attention: Les pattes du thermistor sont très fragiles!

 

 

 


  • Prenez le thermistor entre vos 2 doigts et pliez le à 90° sur une longueur d’environ 5mm à partir de la tête du thermistor.

 

 

 

 


  • Placez le thermistor dans le petit trou situé dans le coin proche de la buse.
  • Préparez la vis M3x4mm et sa rondelle, et amorcez la dans le trou situé juste à côté de celui dédié au thermistor.
  • Faites en sorte que les pattes du thermistor sortent de chaque côté de la vis de fixation comme sur la photo.
    Note: Vérifiez aussi que la gaine en fibre de verre est toujours enfilé jusqu’au bout du thermistor, et que les pattes du thermistor ne se touchent pas.

Serrez la vis de fixation afin d’écraser la gaine en fibre de verre et de maintenir le thermistor.

 

 

 

 


Voici une vue de face du montage une fois réalisé.

  • Vérifiez que la gaine bleu isole bien les pattes du thermistor jusqu’à sa tête.
    Si les pattes du thermistor sont en contact électrique avec le bloc de chauffe, la lecture de la température du thermistor peu s’avérer incorrecte, induisant un risque de surchauffe et de destruction de la tête chauffante,

 


 

Insertion de la cartouche chauffante :

  • Insérez la cartouche chauffante en vous assurant que les fils se situent du même côté que ceux du thermistor.
  • Centrez la cartouche chauffante au milieu du bloc de chauffe.

 

 

 


  • Insérez la vis M3X10 dans le trou permettant de serrer la cartouche chauffante sur le bloc de chauffe.
  • Vissez la jusqu’à ce que le bloc de chauffe se déforme légèrement afin d’assurer un contact thermique maximal et que la cartouche chauffante soit bien retenue.

 

 

 


 

Raccordement du thermistor :

  • Dénudez le bout des fils rouge et noir et insérez un bout de gaine thermorétractable autour de chaque terminaison de fil.

 

 

 

 


  • Placez la férule au bout de chaque patte du thermistor.
    Si vous placez la partie la plus large de la férule comme sur la photo, cela vous facilitera la tache pour les étapes suivantes.
  • Entrecroisez les terminaisons de fils du thermistor avec les fils noir et rouge afin d’effectuer un contact électrique.

 

 


  • Maintenant, glissez doucement la férule vers le câble rouge de manière à placer la férule au milieu du contact récemment créé.

 

 

 

 

 


  • A l’aide d’une pince plate, écrasez la férule, afin de sceller le contact électrique du fil et du thermistor.
  • Effectuez la même opération pour le fil noir et le deuxième fil du thermistor.

 

 

 

 


  • Ramenez maintenant les gaines thermorétractables au dessus des férules.
  • Vous pouvez utiliser un briquet, une allumette ou un fer à souder afin réduire la gaine thermorétractable.
    Cette dernière à pour but d’isoler électriquement la connexion du thermistor avec les rallonges de fil rouge et noir.

 

 


 

Assemblage du radiateur :

  • Munissez-vous du radiateur, et vissez la tête sur le radiateur en prenant soins de maintenir la tête par le bloc chauffant d’une main, et le radiateur de l’autre main.
    Un serrage léger à la main suffit. Ne serrez pas trop!

 

 


 

Étape finale :

  • Prenez le tube en PTFE et glissez le plus profondément possible dans le radiateur de la tête chauffante!

 

 

 

 

Photos sous licence Creative Commons 3.0

Source : http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly