Archives par étiquette : heat bed

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CR-10, 220V 600W

Heat-bed upgrade – 600W / 220V for Creality CR-10 / E10 3D printer

This page describes the way to setup this 600W / 220V silicone heat-bed upgrade from 3D Modular Systems . This upgrade is compatible with Creality CR-10, also potentially compatible with Anet E10

Upgrade content

  • 1 silicone heat-bed 220V / 600W
  • 1 static relay
  • 1 Grounding kit
  • 1 cable tie kit
  • 1 spiral cable tie

Heat-bed disassembly

Remove the glass from your bed.

Remove all 4 screws from your heat-bed

Return your heat-bed

Place the silicone pad so that the holes fits the bed screw holes.

Remove the protective film

Make sure to place the silicone pad so that the power supply cables are placed on the same corner as the original cables.

Note here the location of the power supply cables.


Re-use of the existing wiring

The main purpose here is to re-use the existing wiring

You have several choices here:

  • Simply cut the power supply wires (Red and Black)

Make sure not to cut the 2 small white wires!

  • Or un-solder them from the PCB bed


Separate the 2 power wires from the temperature sensor.


Insulate the heat-bed

The more efficient way is to use simple aluminum foil for cooking.

Warning! the aluminum foil has 2 different faces

  • 1 shiny side
  • 1 mat side

Use the shiny face so that it faces the black side of your bed.

The mat face has to face you.

Using a fine cutting device, carefully remove the excess of aluminum and open up the dedicated square holes .

Secure everything using kapton tape.

Kapton tape is specially made to handle high temperatures

It is also a great electric insulator.

Make sure to use proper tape

Place 4 Kapton strips along the sides of the bed in order to properly secure the whole system over the black heat bed surface.

Using a fine cutting device, you can remove the excess of tapes on the corners

Finally place a diagonal strip to secure everything.

Re-install the heat-bed and the glass.

 

 


Cut the sheath holding the power wire and the thermistor. Use a simple pair of scissors.

Make sure to cut only the sheath. Avoid cutting the wires inside the sheath!

Use a pair of cable ties to secure the thermistor wires with the bed power wires.

You can use the spiral sheath to secure the wires.


Static relay installation

Remove the blue extrusion cover located inside the left side of the chassis, at the back.

Cut about 8 cm


Static relay installation without cover

Install the static relay using a pair of M4x8mm screw and a T-nut.

Take special precautions on the orientation of the relay. The 3-32VDC side has to be facing the Z axis stepper motor. The 220V side must  point toward the outside of the chassis.

Connect the Red wire of your heat-bed that you previously cut and connect it on the « + » terminal of the static relay (terminal number 3)

Also connect the Black wire from your heat-bed (that you also previously cut) on the « – » terminal of the static relay (Terminal 4)

Make sure to take into account the polarity on the static relay!

Wire both Terminals from the 220V silicone bed on the static relay terminals . Here there is no polarity

Make sure to insulate the 220V  of the static relay using Kapton tape.


Ground wire installation.

You will need a pair of washer, 1 M4x8mm screw and 1 T-nut.

insert the screw and the washer inside the ground wire round terminal from the heat-bed.

Take the 2nd ground wire provided

Connect the 2 ground wires at the same location on the chassis, here pointed by the arrow.

The last washer is inserted at the bottom. The T-Nut allows to secure the ground wires on the chassis.

The 2nd ground wire has to be attached under the heat-bed.

Unscrew the adjusting knob under the bed, on the corner near the static relay.

The 2 washers allows to make contact between the ground wires and the metallic side of the bed.

1washer o each side of the ground wire terminal.

The adjusting knob secures everything.

you can use the spiral sheath in order to finalize the wiring.


That’s all!

You can use your heat-bed now.

On the electronic side you have no changes to make.

You heat bed should reach the following temperature

  • 60°C in less than 1 minute 10 seconds
  • 110°C in less than 3 minutes

 

Scalar S – Dual drive system bed upgrade

Dual drive system upgradeThis page describes the installation of the Dual drive system bed upgrade for Scalar S 3D printer.

It postulates that you have the standard version of the Scalar S, and that you are upgrading your Y Axis.

This upgrade is a mechanical upgrade only.

It doesn’t require any firmware updates.

 

 

Bed disassembly

scalar S, upgrade plateau à double entraînement


Removing belts

In order to continue, it’s best that you remove the belt already installed.

Keep it close as you will need it very soon.


Y axis positioning


Rail assembly

Check the procedure here


Installation of the new axis


2 sides synchronization

Remove the black screw already in place.

Keep it safe for future use.

Take great care to the pulleys directions

Do not tighten the pulleys


Tighten the stabilization screws

These screws are here to stabilize the extrusion profile, to prevent it from rotating.

Back view of the printer, we install the M5x35 black screws that we kept from earlier.


New lower plate installation


Heat plate installation


Belts installation

Follow this procedure


Bed alignment

This step allows to make sure that your bed is properly aligned to your chassis

This step takes into account that your pulleys are not tighten on their shafts. They must remain loose until the end of this alignment procedure.

Once you have checked that one side is aligned, you can tighten the red extrusion holders on the chassis on one side only.

Here we are tightening the right side. It will allow us to align the other side more easily

 

Slide the bed toward the back of the printer. The left axis should align itself once the bed has reach the end stop.

Hold the plastic support and tighten it on the chassis.

Now, slide again the bed toward the front of the machine this time. Once at the end, hold the plastic holder and tighten it on the chassis.

 

You can check that the bed is centered using the hotend. It should be able to move over the whole heatbed surface. You can adjust the position of the X end stop in order to fix potential centering issues.

Your heatbed should move freely back and forth with no issues linked to parallelism.

Also your bed should be properly aligned to your chassis now. You can check that by moving the bed edge to the front of your chassis. Using a ruler, you should see that the bed is parallel to the front of the chassis on both sides (right and left).


Tightening the Pulleys

Now that your bed is properly aligned and centered you can tigthen the 4 pulleys  and you are done!

12V 220W Heatbed wiring

This page is explains how to wire your 12V 220W heatbed using static relay


What is a static relay?

A static relay is an electronic relay able to switch Power.

You can find different types for different voltages and different powers.

In our case 12V 220W heatbed , you will need to use a  DC-DC static relay, driven by 12V input voltage, and able to drive DC output power voltage.

This type of relay has MOSFET power transistor able to drive DC output voltage.

If you are using a 220V heatbed directly powered by your grid you will need to use a DC-AC static relay.

These have power triacs able to drive 220V alternative output voltages.

How to choose the power of your static relay?

The power your can draw out of a static relay depends on many factor. It’s type, it’s rated power, it’s ability to dissipate heat.

DC-DC Relays

For DC-DC relays , They ofent get hot very easily, so take into account to always select one with   2 or 3 times it’s nominal load.

With a 220W 12V heatbed, the max current is around 18.3A.

  • A 25A relay will be too small  (max usable load would be 12A => 144W Max)
  • A 40A relay will be just enough  (2 times the nominal load) and might get hot
  • A 60A relay ( able to support 3 times the nominal load) will be well adapted and should dissipate very little heat.

DC-AC relays

These have power tyristors or triacs.

For the 3D printer power range a simple 25A relay is enough for most usage.

If we take the Scalar XL with it’s 700W 220V heatbed,

Power(W) = Input Voltage(V) x Curent (A) x Cos Phy

Current= Power/ (Input Voltage x cos Phy)

If we take CosPhy = 0.6

Curent = 700W/(220V*0.6) => 5.8A MAX

This relay is 4.3 time more powerfull than it’s load.

Why a static relay?

With these powers, a static relay will protect you electronics from being damaged, and will also increase it’s lifepan.

If you are using Ramps boards with it’s Green power connectors, they can support only 11A.

Using more current is possible but you will need a very good cooling of the power components and of the power connector itself.

However with time you might kill the power connector, or even the Power transistor of the Ramps board.

 

 

 

 


 

Hopefully these can be easily replaced.

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However, using a Static relay will prevent such issues.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Heatbed Wiring using the Static relay.

Directly from your power supply

If you have enough outputs on your power supply, you can connect directly the heatbed to the power supply following this schematic..

The +12V output de l’alimentation est relié directement au lit chauffant.

The heatbed output is then connectod to the « + » (pin 2) of the static relay

The  « – » (pin 1)  output is connected to the 0V of your power supply.

Pins 3 and 4 of the static relay are connected to D8 output of your Ramps board

Pay close attention to the polarity!

Between the Ramps and your static relay, you can use thin wires (24AWG for example) because very little power is transmitted to the static relay.

However, on your static relay output, make sure you are using proper wire diameter.  (use 2.5mm² wires). The bigger the diameter, the lower the power loss, and your wiresd will stay cold.

Also attache the static relay on the aluminum extrusions.

For Scalar 3d Printers, you can attach it directly on the extrusion profiles. it will be greatly spread static relay heat.

 


With terminal strips

The assembly is very similar.

We will use terminal strip to connect with the available wires.

see above comments for more details.

 

Raccordement du lit chauffant 12V 220W

Cette page est dédiée à la connexion d’un lit chauffant 12V 220W avec un relais statique.


Qu’est-ce qu’un relais statique?

Un relais statique est un relais de puissance électronique.

Il en existe différent types pour différents voltages et différentes puissances.

Dans notre cas d’un lit chauffant en 12V 220W il nous faudra prendre un relais statique DC-DC, piloté en 12V en entrée, et pouvant pilotée une charge en tension continue en sortie.

Ce type de relais possède des transistors de puissance compatibles avec des tensions continues.

Dans le cas d’un lit chauffant en 220V alimenté par votre secteur électrique, il vous faudra choisir un relais static DC-AC.

Ces derniers possèdent des Triac capable de piloter des tensions alternatives.

Comment choisir la puissance d’un relais statique?

La puissance utilisable d’un relais statique dépend beaucoup de son type et de la qualité de refroidissement de ce dernier.

Relais DC-DC

Pour des relais DC-DC, ces derniers chauffent beaucoup donc choisir toujours un relais 2 à 3 fois plus puissant par rapport à votre charge nominale.

Dans notre cas d’un lit en 220W 12V le courant max est de l’ordre de 18.3A.

  • Un relais donné pour 25A sera trop juste (prévoir une charge maximale de 12A => 144W Max)
  • Un relais donné pour 40A sera limite  (2 fois la charge nominale) et dissipera une chaleur relativement importante.
  • Un relais de 60A ( plus de 3 fois la charge nominale) sera bien dimensionné et dissipera très peut de chaleur.

Relais DC-AC

Ces relais possèdent des thyristors de puissance.

Au niveau des gammes de puissances utilisées dans les imprimantes 3D un simple relais de 25A est largement sur dimensionné par rapport à l’utilisation réelle.

Prenons le cas de la Scalar XL avec sont lit chauffant de 700W 220V,

Puissance (W) = Tension d’entrée(V) x Courant (A) x Cos Phy

Courant = Puissance / (tension d’entrée x cos Phy)

Si on considère un CosPhy de = 0.6

Courant = 700W/(220V*0.6) => 5.8A MAX

Le relais est donc 4.3 fois plus puissant que la charge utile.

Pourquoi un relais statique?

A ces puissances, un relais statique protègera votre électronique et sera mieux dimensionné aux courants utilisés.

Si vous utilisez une Carte Ramps avec un connecteur de puissance vert, ce dernier est dimensionné pour supporter 11A.

L’utilisation de courant plus fort fonctionnera si vous utilisez une bonne ventilation de vos composants.

Cependant avec le temps vous allez détériorer vos composants et le bornier d’alimentation peut alors se détruire

 

 

 

 


 

Les borniers d’alimentation sont démontable et peuvent se changer.

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Cependant l’utilisation d’un relais statique adapté est hautement recommandé voir nécessaire/obligatoire dans certains cas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Connexion du lit chauffant à votre électronique

Directement sur votre alimentation

SI vous avez suffisamment de place sur votre alimentation, vous pouvez connecter votre montage comme montré sur ce schéma.

Ici le +12V de l’alimentation est relié directement au lit chauffant.

La sortie du lit chauffant est alors connecté à la sortie  « + » (pin 2) de votre relais statique.

La sortie « – » (pin 1) de votre relais statique est alors connecté au 0V de votre alimentation.

Les pins 3 et 4 du relais statique se connecter alors à la sortie D8 de votre Ramps.

Ici attention à la polarité!

Entre la carte Ramps et votre relais statique vous pouvez utiliser des fils relativement fin (24AWG par exemple) car aucune puissance n’est transmise au relais.

Par contre en sortie de relais, prévoyez de bien dimensionner vos fils de puissance (prévoir 2.5mm² ). Plus la section de vos fils sera importante, plus vous limiterez les pertes en lignes et plus votre fils restera froid.

Il faut prévoir aussi de fixer votre relais statique sur un dissipateur.

Dans le cas des imprimantes 3D Scalar, vous pouvez les fixer directement sur les profilés qui feront office de dissipateur thermique.

 


Avec un Domino

ici le montage est très similaire,

On utilisera un Domino pour faire la jonction avec les fils déjà disponible.

Le branchement est similaire au montage précédent (voir commentaires sur la section précédente).

 

Heatbed V2 Assembly (Full Aluminum)

List of parts:

  • Scalar S : 1 silicone heater (190x190mm 250W 220V)
  • Scalar S: 1 aluminium plate (220x230x2mm) (Base)
  • Scalar S: 1 aluminium plate (220x230x3mm) (Plate)
  • Scalar M : 1 silicone heater (300x200mm 400W 220V)
  • Scalar M: 2 aluminium plates (300x220x3mm) (Base + plateau)
  • Scalar L : 1 silicone heater (300x300mm 600W 220V)
  • Scalar L: 2 aluminium plates (300x330x3mm) (Base + plateau)
  • Scalar XL : 1 silicone heater (400x300mm 700W 220V)
  • Scalar XL: 2 aluminium plates (435x320x3mm) (Base + plateau)

 

  • Scalar XL Premium : 1 silicone heater (400x300mm 700W 220V)
  • Scalar XL Premium: 2 aluminium plates (435x320x3mm) (Base + plateau)

 

  • 1 aluminium sheet used for cooking
  • 1 wired thermistor (1 meter)
  • 1 pen
  • 1 pair of scissors
  • 1 50mm polyimide/Kapton tape
  • 1 piece of aluminium tape

 


 

Take the aluminium plate corresponding to your print surface.

It has only 4 holes, one on each corners.

 

 

 

This pate has 1 face with a protection film and the other face with a raw surface.

In this picture you can see the face with the protection film.

This face is used for printing.

 

 

The other side with raw aluminium is destined to be the bottom of the heatbed where you are going to stick the heating element and the thermistor.

Take the raw side of the plate in front of you.

 

 

 


 

Place the heating element (orange) – don’t stick it yet – and place it in the middle of the aluminium plate..

Place some markings so that the silicone heater is at the center of the aluminium plate.

This pictures shows the example of the Scalar XL.

The silicone surface is smaller on all sides than the aluminium plate..

 

 

This picture shows the example of Scalar M.

Here the silicone heater has the same length but smaller width.

Make sure to have enough space around the corner-holes for later use.

 


 

Place some markings on the sides of the silicone heater.

This will help you later on to stick the silicone heater in the center.

 

 

Do the same at the top and bottom of the plate for Scalar M and also on the sides for Scalar XL.

 

 

 


 

Now take your thermistor .

Place it so that the end of the thermistor is located at 1/3rd of aluminium plate length from the side.

 

 

 

This will allow you to reuse the maximum of the thermistor wire’s length and keep a goo thermistor placement..

 

 

 

 


 

Take a small piece of aluminium tape (or Kapton / Polyimide tape) that will help you secure the thermistor end.

The main point in using these kind of tape is that they can support heats over 110°C..

 

 

here a picture showing the overall placement of the thermistor.

 

 

 

 

Once the thermistor ending secured your assembly should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 

In order to finalize thermistor placement, it’s interesting to stick the wires right on the edge of the aluminium plate..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a picture showing the thermistor fully secured.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now you can remove the 3M tape from the silicone heater .

 

 

 

Place it on the aluminium plate using your previous markings to make sure it’s centered.

make sure to properly press on all the surface of the silicone hater in order to evenly stick it on the aluminium plate.

 

 

Th thermistor should be right between both aluminum plate and silicone heater.

This ensures that the thermistor is properly secured and will provide proper measurements.

 

 


 

in order to optimize the thermal insulation, you can use aluminium sheets used for cooking so that it covers the maximum surface of the silicone heater..

Make sure that you remove the part of the aluminium sheet that extends over the silicone element..

This will help you to secure the aluminium sheet using kapton tape.

 

The aluminium sheet should have 2 different faces

  • 1  « mirror » side
  • 1 « mate » side
  1. Make sure to place the « mirror »  side toward the silicone heater. This will increase the efficiency of the aluminium sheet and will reflect a maximum of Infra-red radiation toward the useful part of the heatbed.
  2. Then push it against the silicone heater. it should stick naturally to it.
  3. Cut the excess of aluminium sheet that goes past the silicone heater surface.
  4. Secure the aluminium sheet with kapton tape and make sure to avoid air bubbles.
  5. Cut the parts of Kapton/polyimide tape that goes past the aluminium plate using a scalpel or a cutter.

 

 

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 2

In this solution we are changing the insulator under both heat beds.
Before the insulator was a 2mm thick aluminum like sheet covered by kapton tape.
Here we are using the same material without the kapton tape.

The Setup

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (with the thermistor) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 21°C
  • Target temperature: 110°C
  • Print surface: 2 x 3mm thick mirrors 20x20cm
  • Insulator: Thermal aluminum like insulator 2mm thick

The temperature profiles:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C

Conclusion

While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 2min 30 (150 sec)
  • 110°C in 14 min 54s (894 sec)

We must wait 8 min 21sec (501 sec) to cool down from 110°C to 60°C

Compared to test 1, it’s  50 seconds faster to reach 60°C 4 minutes 29 faster (269 sec) to reach 110°C.

We also reduce by 25% the heating time compared from Test 1

We reduce by 4% (20 seconds) the time needed to cool down the heat bed.

We can see that the heat bed inertia is smaller before we need less time to heat and less time to cool down.

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 1

Into this initial solution, we are using existing solutions with 2 standard 12V heat beds and 1 power supply for each heat bed.

The heat beds are driven using DC static relays.

The setup

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (the thermistor is under this one) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 19°C
  • Target Temperature: 110°C
  • Bed print surface: 2 x 3mm thick mirrors 20x20cm
  • Insulation: silver 2mm thick insulator covered by Kapton tape

Temperature curves:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C

Conclusion

While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 3min 20 (200 sec)
  • 110°C in 19 min 50s (1190 sec)

We must wait 8 min 41sec to cool down from 110°C to 60°C

Even if it’s seems a long time before we reach the 110°C (about 20 minutes), the time we need to reach 60°C is more reasonable.

This test is the reference test that we will use to compare the results of the others tests later on.

Heat bed assembly

List of parts :

  • 1 Silicone heater
  • 1 aluminum plate
  • 1 insulation sheet
  • 1 cabled thermistor
  • 1 pen
  • 1 pair of scissors
  • 1 hard card (something like creadit card)
  •  Polyamid tape

 

Place the silicon heater (here orange) in the middle of the aluminum plate.

Take a mark so that when you stick the silicon heater to the aluminum plate it’s located at the center of it.

 

 

 


Return the silicon heater and remove the 3M tape protection .

 

 

 

 


Now remove the tape protection from the silicon heater.

Stick the silicon heater in the center of your aluminum plate.

 

 

 


Take some polyamid tape and cut a length to secure the polyamid on the aluminum plate. The length should be the same as the silicon heater.

WIth your hard card apply the plolyamid tape so that it stick both the remaining exposed aluminum and the silicon heater.

 

 

 

This is made in order to make sure that if for any reason the 3M tape is not sticking anymore you still have the polyamid that will keep the whole thing together.

 

 

 

 

 


The end result should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 


 

Position the thermistor in the center of the silicon heater as shown in the picture, and make sure that the thermistor lead wires are as close as possible as the exit of the silicon heater lead wire.

 

 


Secure the thermistor with some polyamid tape so that is stay well stuck under the heater.

 

 

 


With a cable tie you can attached both lead wires together, make sure that the thermistor lead wire is as flat as possible.

Position the cable tie outside of the alimunum plate area.

 

 


 

With polyamid you can secure the remaining part of the silicon heater (here on the left of the picture).

 

 

 


 

Now place the insulation sheet over the whole assembly. The insulating sheet must have it’s side that looks like aluminum foil toward the silicon heater so that all the infra red heat is sent back to the aluminum plate.

 

 

 

 


 

Now with a pen locate the position of the thermistor wire under the insulation sheet.

Once located you need to remove the part of the insulation sheet the is covering the thermistor wire.

The insulation sheet is doing more than just keeping the heat on the aluminum side, it’s also used to compensate the height of the lead wires under the place so that the aluminum side of the heat bed will stay as flat as possible afterward.

 


Return the assembly that you just prepared.

Looking at the machine from the back, make sure that the silicon heater power cable is exiting on the right as on the picture.

You can fix the aluminum plate to the wooden plate using some of the 4 paper clips provided.

 

 


 

In principle the silicon heater cable going out on the side of the plate should look like the picture, the gap between the aluminum plate and the wooden plate should be very little. It’s possible that we provide you with a 2nd polystyren sheet that is thicker to compensate with this gap a little better.

 

 

 

 


By positioning the wires, make sure to make it pass under the bed as shown on the picture.

 

 

 

 

 


Under the wooden bed, place a plastic clip (here the blue part) and make sure to take both the thermistor and the silicon wires inside the clip.

 

 

 

 


Now  fix it on the wooden plate.

The purpose here is to make sure that the cable doesn’t touche the smooth rod and is going just below the plastic support for the linear bearing (here in grey).

This will avoid any long term deterioration on the power cable.

Note The position of the belt tensioner, the clip is places on the opposite side side of the tensioner, the picture here show the back of the machine

In this position push up the plate and make sure that you have enough free orange wire and that he doesn’t hit the timing belt.

We might provide an extra clip to help you make sure it doesn’t hit the belt.

 

 


Connection of the heat bed to the static relay

List of parts :

  • 4 paper clips
  • 1 AC static relay
  • 2 M4 compatible T-Nuts
  • 2 M4x12mm screws
  • (not provided) 1 screw diver
  • (provided) 1 allen key
  •  plastic clips

 


If you look the chassis from behind, make sure the wires exit on the right exposing the fork or round terminals of the silicon heater on the side of the chassis.

 

 

 

 


Now screw the static relay and make sure to place the 2 terminals with the wave marking (with number 1 and 2) the closest to the chassis back.  The terminals with the « + » and « – » markings (also with numbers 3 and 4) are to be placed toward the vertical aluminum extrusion.

 

 

 


Unscrew the terminals with the wave marking and connect the silicon heater terminals to it.

Make sure you take the terminals with either red or blue colors.

Warning: Make sure to connect those terminals to the proper static relay terminals with the wave marking and labeled24 ~380VAC

 

 


Now screw the last silicon heater terminal with it’s associated static relay terminal.

 

 

 

 

 


Take the protection plastic part to secure the terminals.

This part should be labeled « SSRC »

 

 

 

 


 

One side of this plastic part has a small chamber dedicated to protect the static relay terminals wires wired to the 220V.

The orange wire should be positioned as on the picture.