Archives par étiquette : extruder


Comparison in image between Genuine Bondtech BMG and the copy

When comparing, we can notice several differences:

  • The copy kit seems more complete
  • The provided output adaptor in PLA (for CR-10 versions) is perfect for this kind of application. An aliminum bowden connector can be provided as an option on the original kit.
  • The tensioning spring system is provided with a plastic washer that is attached to the tensioning screw inside the original kit . This prevent you from loosing the spring, which is pretty frequent with the copy version
  • The extrusion gear of the original model is clean, the copy counterpart is full of grease.
  • If we compare both models side by side, we can see slight differences in term of dimensions. The Original version is much better aligned, all the gears cannot hit each others.
  • The extrusion gear on the original version has teeth close fit for the 1.75mm filament. The dedicated zone with the teeth is optimal. On the copy side, this same zone is more evaded, so the contact zone with the filament is less efficient.
  • The filament is better guided on the original enclosure  then on the copy version. You have nearly no play between the teeth and the enclosure. In the other side you have a big gap between the teeth and the enclosure. Flexible filament will likely slip inside the gap on the copy version.
  • Metal insert of the copy version is over molded. This seems to be  better quality at first look. However when it comes to installing the tensioning screw, it’s much more difficult to fit the screw of the copy version because the insert is far back, compressing the spring as the screw has yet hit the threaded insert. It can become tricky to do it. On the original version is quite easy and you won’t even see a problem here.
  • The teeth’s shapes of the reduction gear are sightly different on both models.
  • The Original Bondtech version is also lighter of 8g compared to the copy version! (so it’s about 12% more mass of the original version)
  • The junction between the 2 body sides of the copy version has a play of about 1 to 2m. The original version is well fit.
  • When we close the moving gear latch, we can see that the extrusion gear of the copy version will hit the extruder body . It doesn’t happen on the  Original version.

En conclusion

This comparison is given as information purpose only. It has no mean into telling you which model is better or which one to buy.

This article gives you as much comparison elements as possible. We might have missed some.

Depending on your status, 1 of the 2 models will better fit your need. If you are more budget or performance oriented.

Extruder Calibration

Why do we need to calibrate our extruder?

It allows you to make sure that the proper amouint of filament is provided to your hotend.

Why do we need to calibrate the extruder on each machine?

The quantity of plastic pushed by the extruder depends mainly on the diameter of the extrusion gear.

Why calibrate the extruder?

It will increase the procission and quality of your prints because the proper amount of plastic will be provided to the hot end..

Why do you need to do this calibration on each machine?

The quantity of plastic pushed inside the hotend depends mainly on the drive gear diameter of the extruder.

This gear is machined with a different tolerance. So the gear diameter will vary from one model to another one and from one brand to another one..

How to proceed?

We adjust the amounts of steps / mm required to push the filament 1mm.

The overall procesdure is as follow:

  1. We extrude a certain length of filament, let’s take 200mm.
  2. We measure with a graduated ruller how much filament has been pushed.
  3. We then use a cross product to adjust the value of our machine.
  4. Then we check that the new value is good by extruding again 200mm and we measure again.
  5. We adjust when needed and we reapeat step 4 ntill we find the proper value.
  6. Finally to ensure the measurment error is very small we extrude 400mm or 600mm  of material (something you can measure with your ruller) , We then slightly adjust the EStep/mm to get our final setting.
  7. At this stage your extruder should be properly calibrated and the quality of your prints should greatly increase.

Step by Step :

  • If you are in Bowden mode, remove the PTFE tue at the exit of the extruder. (You need to push the small cap at the base of the tube and then pull the tube at the same time)
    Then push the filament so that the tip is at the same level as the extruder shell.
  • If you are in Direct drive, you will need to unmount the extruder from it’s support, so that you can measure at the very edge of the extruder exit.
  • Cleanly cut the filament to that it’s easier to measure.

  • The Provided SD card contains a set of Gcode that will help you in this process. You can find them here:


  • You will find severall files (ExtrudeXXXmm.gcode and RetractXXXmm.gcode)

  • Depending the firmware version, you will need to pre heat your hot end before extruding.
  • With your LCD browse inside the SD card into the folder  and print « Extrude200mm.gcode » .

  • Measure how many mm of filament is extruded. (IMake sure to use a fine Ruller to avoid measurements issues)

  • In order to make sure to avoid any slippery that may affect your next measurements (and probably make your measurements weird), It is strongly advised to perform these steps several times by resetting the filament position and extruding again 200mm.
  • If your measurements are consistent you can proceed to the folowing steps.

Slippery case:

  • In the opposite scenario, you will need to investigate where the slippery comes from.
  • Here are some hints :
    • The extruder spring is not tight enought.
    • The filament spool is forcing on the filament, preventing the extruder to pull it properly ( Look for any nodes on the filament, the spool itselft must be free)
    • The extruder compression finger might be broken, and the bearing is improperly applying pressure on the filament.
    • your Extrusion gear is improperly screwed, the motor is turning but your extrusion gear is slipping.
    • The extrusion gear might be full of plastic or dirty
    • Something is tempering with your filament
  • If you solved this issue you will need to check again by doing again the previous steps.



Computation of the proper Epas/mm value
Use of « cross product »

  • Once you have checked that your extruder is slippery free you will be able to compute the new ESteps/mm by using the following formula:

 (Actual EStep / mm ) * (Expected extruded filament length) / (Length of measured extruded filament) = new EStep/mm

Example detailed below : 150 * 200 / 198 = 151.5 ESteps/mm

In order to obtain the ESteps/mm of your extruder you will need to navigate inside your LCD display  » Controle>Mouvements>EStep/mm » (last parameter of the list)

Example explaination :

if you have extruded 200mm of filament

  • Expected extruded filament length = 200mm

If you measured 198mm

  • Length of measured extruded filament = 198mm

if your Estep/mm is 150 step/mm ( » Control>Mouvements>EStep/mm« )

  • Actual EStep / mm = 150 pas/mm

you get:

New EStep/mm = 150 * 200 / 198 = 151.5 (Please take good care of the decimale)


Applying our new EStep/mm

  • Now that you calculated the new EStep/mm for your extruder you need to apply this parameter to you machine using the LCD display:  « Control>Mouvements>EStep/mm« 
  • Do again the test to extrude 200mm of filament. The extruded filament length should be better .If you still have some error it’s often due to the precission of the initial measurement. (90% of the time)
  • Once you get something close to 200mm , then extrude again 200mm, you should be able to measure 400mm. This steps allows you to reduce the measurement error based on 200mm.
  • At this stage you can apply your final fined tuned EStep/mm..
  • You can also use « Retract200mm.gcode » to double check that your filament properly comes back to it’s position of orgine.


Congratulation, Make sure to save your settings !

You have now completed the calibration process of your extruder.

Make sure that your new setting is properly saved inside your printer EEPROM:

  • « Control> Save config« 
  • Wait a few seconds and switch down the printer. Switch it back on and check that the setting has properly been saved (« Control>Mouvements>EPas/mm« )


Resources :

For those that lost the content of the original SD card provided with the Scalar M or Scalar XL you can download the calibration Gcode here by clicking in the Zip icon or the link below:



Extruder Assembly

List of parts for E3D Hot end

List of parts for standard Hot end

Listof parts :

  • 2 M3X60mm screws
  • 2 vis M3x30mm screws
  • 4 vis M3x8mm screws
  • 4 M3 Washer
  • 4 M3 nuts
  • 2 3mm compression spring
  • 2 M4x20mm screws
  • 2 M4 nuts
  • 1 M8x60  hobbed bolt
  • 4 M8 Washer
  • 2 M8 nut
  • 1M8 nylstop nut
  • 3 608ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic Washer
  • 1 cylinder 8x20mm
  • 1 48mm stepper motor
  • 1 pneumatic connector (plastic or metalic)
  • 1 extruder set of plastic parts
  • 1 support for the extruder compatible with 30×30 extrusions

Bearing bloc assembly:


List of parts :

  • 1 cylinder 8x20mm
  • 1 608zz bearing
  • 1 plastic part






Take the 608zz bearing and the small cylinder.







Insert the cylinder inside the bearing so that the bearing is centered on it:







Now tack the plastic part and push the bearing inside the dedicated slot, it should snap inside:







You can use some flat pliers to push it inside the slot if it’s too hard.






Main body assembly:


List of parts :

  • 1 previously assembled bearing part
  • 1 M3x30mm screw
  • 1 M3 washer
  • 1 extruder main body (buda)



Now take the main extruder’s body (also called « buda« )  and a M3x30mm screw and it’s washer.

Place the idler on the side of the main body, you will find a special hole to screw the idler on it.



Fix the idler on it until the screw blocks. The idler must still be able to rotate around the screw freely






Main body preparation:


List of parts :

  • Main extruder body already mounted
  • 2 M3x 60 screws
  • 2 M3 compression springs
  • 2 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 Nuts
  • 2 608ZZ bearings
  • 1 plastic washer



Insert the M3X60mm screws with their washer and compression spring at the top of the main body. You should find 2 special holes where the screws can go. On the top you will also find 2 small slots, big enough to insert 2 M3 nuts. You will then need to screw the long screws inside those nuts to hold the whole system together.




Turn the main body and insert the plastic washer inside the round as shown on the picture. The washer is slightly tilted so that you can see it properly on the picture, but you must push it all the way inside the slot.





Now insert the 608ZZ bearing in over the plastic washer. It should come at the same level as the main body as on the picture.






Now turn the extruder and insert the 2nd bearing inside the similar slot.





Preparation of the stepper motor and the gear wheels:

List of parts :

  • 1 M3 Nut
  • 1 small geared plastic wheel
  • 1 big plastic wheel
  • 1 48mm stepper motor
  • 1 M3x8mm screw
  • 1  M8x60 hobbed bolt
  • 4 M8 whashers


Take the small geared wheel and inside a M3 nut inside the small slot at the bottom of the wheel.






Take good care to align the nut hole with the hole on the side of the plastic wheel






Push the wheel on the stepper motor shaft and secure it with a M3x8mm screw






Take the big wheel and the M8x60 hobbed bolt with 4 metal washers:






Insert the Hobbed bolt inside the Plastic wheel. Take care to place the screw hex head so that it goes straight inside the hex shaped slot on the wheel:






Return the wheel and lay it flat







Insert the 4 metallic washers







Place the whole assembly back on the main body of the extruder as shown on the picture:







Place the the stepper motor behind so that the small wheel is properly aligned with the big wheel. Secure the motor with a first M3x8mm screw.





The next picture shows you where is the 2nd slot for the screw.

The 3rd screw has to be installed just near the bottom of the extruder, you should figure it easily.





You can now tighten the big wheel by using 2 M8 nuts side by side

Make sure to slightly tighten the wheel , because the wheel must always move freely without too much force on it, else the whole assembly will get stuck and your stepper motor won’t be able to push this wheel

You can then tighten the 2 M8 Nuts one against the other and help yourself with 2 hex keys

Now you can place the optional Nylstop nut (the nut with some plastic inside) to prevent any Nut from going out


Last part

List of parts :

  • 2 M3x30 screws with hex head
  • 2 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 nuts
  • 1 plastic part
  • 1 Allen key


Prepare the screws and the washers.

Screw them inside the small holes at the very bottom of the main body. The goal here is to fix the plastic part on the bottom of the main body.

Notice however that one side of the plastic part is flat and the other one is not. make sure to insert it the proper side




Before  screwing up to the end, make sure you put some M3 nuts on the other side of the main body. This part is optional however as the screws should be far enough to keep the whole thing together






Now prepare the extruder support.

Place it as showed in the picture, and insert 2 M4x30 screws.

On the opposite side you will find 2 M4 nut slots. Place 2 M4 nuts inside and screw everything together.




Take the pneumatic connector and insert it on the side of the extruder support. There is a hole big enough to accept the connector. Go slowly to prevent the extruder support from braking.

The picture here shows the metallic pneumatic connector in place





On this picture you have the example of the plastic pneumatic connector




extruder assembly on the chassis

Special Note:

This documentation was made for Greg’s extruder model and some additions were made to fit the currently provided MK8 bowden extruder.

Bowden MK8 extruder

Greg’s extruder assembled

List of parts

  • 1 Extrudeur already assembled (see full assembly here ici)
  • 2 M6x12mm screws
  • 2 T-nuts
  • [provided] 1 allen key


Start by preparing 2 set of screw/t-nuts so that they are located below the big gear wheel.




The goal here is to place it right next to the power supply unit on the top aluminum extrusion.

If you look at the printer from the front, the power supply should get to your right.

On this photo this is the back view.


Place the extruder so that the screws start to get inside the slots located below the aluminum extrusion.

The picture shows you an example.



For MK8 Extruder the process is very similar as shown on this picture, except that the motor is located in the opposite side.






The side view (right view) show the location of the T-Nuts, they should perfectly fit inside the extrusion slot.

If you already placed some side cover, remove it slowly with a flat screw diver, it’s interesting that it’s removed so that it will be easier for you to make sure the screws are properly attached. Otherwise the T-Nut on the edge of the extrusion might not turn and will not self lock.


For MK8 Extruder, again it’s very similar.

The stepper motor is below the top extrusion profile.





Here a zoom showing how it should fit inside. Those 2 screws will make the most of the work keeping this extruder in place.




Once properly inside the slots, screw it and add a side set of Screw+T-Nut .

You should be able to easily insert those even if sometimes the T-Nut won’t align properly with the screw.



Now screw it. It will maintain properly the extruder on the side and prevent it from vibrating.




Now you can put back the side cover.

The extruder might slightly go beyond the extrusion. So the side cover should align with the side of the extruder.




Push it in place to finish the assembly.





For MK8 extruder the back view should look like this picture.


Fixation de l’extrudeur sur le chassis

Extrudeur MK8 Bowden

Greg’s extrudeur assemblé

Note: Cette page contient la notice de montage pour l’extrudeur avec réducteur.

La procédure à été complétée afin de fournir les informations manquantes pour les extrudeurs MK8 fournis avec les kits actuels.

Liste des pièces

  • 1 Extrudeur déjà assemblé (voir la procédure complète  ici)
  • 2 vis M6x12mm
  • 2 écrous marteau
  • [fournie] 1 clé allen


Commencez par préparer 2 couples de vis/écrou de telle manière qu’ils se positionnent juste au dessus de la grosse roue dentée.




Le but ici est de placer l’extruder sur la droite du bloque d’alimentation sur le profilé du haut.

SI vous regardez l’imprimante de face le bloque d’alimentation se trouve sur la droite.

Cette photo correspond à la vue arrière.


Placez l’extruder de telle manière que les vis se retrouvent sous le profilés et glissent bien dans la gorge du bas.

La photo vous montre un exemple.



Pour les extrudeur MK8, la procédure est très similaire comme montré sur cette photo. Le moteur se situe à l’arrière cependant.





La vue de côté (ici celle de droite) montre la position de l’écrou marteau à l’intérieur du profilé.

Si vous avez déjà mis en place les cache latéraux, enlevez les avec un tourne vis plat. C’est intéressant de le faire car cela va vous faciliter la tâche afin de bien positioner les vis qui se trouvent au bord du profilé. Cela vous permettra aussi de vérifier que les écrous marteaux ont bien tourné et sont bien sérré.


Pour les extrudeurs MK8, c’est encore très similaire.

Le moteur étant placé sous le profilé suppérieur..





Ici une vue zoomé qui montre la flange du profilé. Ces 2 vis ont pour fonction de supporter tout le bloque d’extrudeur.




Une fois serré, insérrez un autre jeux de vis/écrous marteau dans la gorge latérage .

Vous devriez facilement arriver à le positioner bien que certaines fois l’écrou ait du mal à s’aligner avec la vis quand il est positioner sur la partie latérale du profilé.



Maintenant serrez le tout. La vis va maintenir latéralement le montage afin de l’éviter de vibrer et de se déformer.




Maintenant remettez le cache latérale.

L’extrudeur peut dépasser légèrement du profilé. Le cache latérale devrait aider à rattraper le jeux.




Poussez le à fond pour finir l’assemblage.





Pour les extrudeurs MK8, cette photo vous montre la vue de derrière.


Montage de l’extrudeur

Liste des pièces pour une tête E3D

Liste des pièce pour une tête standard

Liste des pièces :

  • 2 vis M3X60mm
  • 2 vis M3x30mm
  • 4 vis M3x8mm
  • 4 rondelles M3
  • 4 écrous M3
  • 2 ressorts 3mm
  • 2 vis M4x20mm
  • 2 écrous M4
  • 1 vis dentée M8x60
  • 4 rondelles M8
  • 2 écrous M8
  • 1 écrou nylstop M8
  • 3 roulements 608ZZ
  • 1 rondelle plastique
  • 1 cylindre 8x20mm
  • 1 moteur 48mm
  • 1 connecteur pneumatique (plastique ou métal)
  • 1 jeu de pièce plastique pour l’extrudeur
  • 1 support d’extrudeur compatible avec les profilés 3030

Montage du bloc de roulement:


Liste des pièces :

  • 1 cylindre 8x20mm
  • 1 roulement 608zz
  • 1 pièce plastique






Prenez tout d’abord un roulement 608zz et le petit cylindre métallique.







Insérez le cylindre dans le roulement de façon à ce qu’il soit centré sur le roulement:







Prenez maintenant la pièce plastique associé et insérez le bloque de roulement à l’intérieur de la gorge prévue à cette effet:







Vous pouvez vous aider d’une pince pour que ce dernier rentre complètement à l’intérieur de la gorge.






Assemblage sur le corps principale:


Liste des pièces :

  • 1 bloque roulement précédemment monté
  • 1 vis M3x30mm
  • 1 rondelle M3
  • 1 corps d’extruder (buda)



Prenez maintenant le corps principale de l’extrudeur (aussi appelé « buda« ) et une vis M3x30mm et sa rondelle.

Placez l’idler au niveau du logement prévue à cet effet, et vissez la visse dans le trou de maintient.




Serrez la juste assez afin que le bloque de roulement puisse continuer à basculer librement






Préparation du corps principale:


Liste des pièces :

  • le corps centrale déjà préparé
  • 2 vis M3x 60
  • 2 ressorts M3
  • 2 rondelles M3
  • 2 écrous M3
  • 2 roulements 608ZZ
  • 1 rondelles en plastique


Montez les vis M3x60mm avec leur rondelle et leur ressort au niveau du bloque de roulement déjà monté. Vous trouverez 2 trous au niveau supérieur de la pièce ou vous pourrez passez les vis. Placez les écrous M3 dans les logements supérieurs prévus à cet effet et amorcez les vis M3x60 dedans.




Tournez le corps principale et insérez la rondelle en plastique dans le logement rond comme sur la photo. La rondelle est en biais pour les besoin de la photo mais vous devez la positionner au fond du logement.





Insérez maintenant un roulement 608ZZ dans le logement. Ce dernier devrait arriver à fleur du corps principal.





Tournez maintenant la pièce et insérez le dernier roulement dans le logement similaire.





Préparation du moteur et du jeu d’engrenage:

Liste des pièces :

  • 1 écrou M3
  • 1 petite roue plastique
  • 1 grosse roue plastique
  • 1 moteur 48mm
  • 1 vis M3x8mm
  • 1 vis dentée M8x60
  • 4 rondelles M8
  • 1 grosse roue plastique


Prenez la petite roue dentée et insérez lui un écrou M3 dans la fente rectangulaire situé sous la roue






Prenez soins de faire en sorte que l’axe centrale de l’écrou soit aligné avec le centre du trou latérale de la roue






Positionnez la petite roue sur l’arbre du moteur et amorcez une vis M3x8mm






Prenez la grosse roue, la vis M8x60 denté et 4 rondelles:






Insérez à fond la vis M8x60 en faisant en sorte que la tête de vis puisse se positionner dans le renfoncement hexagonal de la grosse roue:






Positionnez la roue et sa vis à plat







Insérez les 4 rondelles







Placez l’assemblage une fois monté sur le corps principale comme sur la photo:







Positionnez le moteur du côté opposé à la grande roue et amorcez les premières vis M3x8mm






La photo suivante montre la position de la deuxième vis.






Vous pouvez serrez la grosse roue a l’aide des 2 écrous M8

Faites en sorte de serrer légèrement afin de permettre à la grosse roue de tourner sans efforts.

Vous pouvez dès lors serrer les 2 écrous l’un contre l’autre à la façon d’un contre écrou à l’aide de 2 clefs

Vous  pouvez maintenant insérer l’écrou nylstop (écrou M8 avec une partie plastique à l’intérieur). Cet écrou permet de garantir que le système reste serré.



Liste des pièces :

  • 2 vis à tête hexagonale M3x30
  • 2 rondelles M3
  • 2 écrous M3
  • 1 pièce plastique
  • 1 clef Allen


Préparez les vis avec des rondelles.

Vissez le bloc plastique dans le corps principale. Notez l’emplacement d’une cavité sur le bord droit de la pièce. Cette cavité doit vous indiquer le sens de la pièce sur le corps principale.




Avant d’arriver à la fin du serrage, de l’autre côté de la pièce vous trouverez des emplacements pour des écrous M3.

Placez les dedans et terminer de visser.





Préparez la  dernière pièce plastique, qui correspond au support d’extrudeur.

Placez la comme sur la photo et commencez à visser les 2 vis M4x30.

A l’opposé des vis vous trouverez des logements pour des écrous M4, positionnez les et terminer de serrer.




Prenez votre connecteur pneumatique et serrez le à fond dans le trou centrale. Allez y doucement, cette partie à tendance à se fendre si vous serrez trop fort trop vite.

La photo ici vous montre le montage du connecteur métalique







Cette photo montre l’insertion d’un connecteur plastique.