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Upgrade – Reinforcement kit for Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium

Kit de renfort pour Scalar L et Scalar XL premium

This page presents the upgrade kit « Frame Reinforcement » for Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium 3D printers

The assembly is very similar for both models, only 1 extrusion profile length is different.

The previous image shows what is the « reinforcement kit » all about.

Kit for Scalar XL premium

  • 2 x 500mm extrusion profiles
  • 1 x 600mm extrusion profiles
  • 2 x 200mm extrusion profiles
  • 8 x simple squares
  • 17 x screws + Tnuts
  • 2 x Extrusion end caps
  • 1 x attachement for PSU

Kit for Scalar L

  • 3 x 500mm extrusion profiles
  • 2 x 200mm extrusion profiles
  • 8 x simple squares
  • 17 screws + Tnuts
  • 2 x Extrusion end caps
  • 1 x attachement for PSU

Assembly

Assembly for Scalar XL Premium

Assembly for Scalar L


Common part

Scalar S – Chassis Assembly

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S

Check the PDF 3D to get a global view of the assembled chassis of the Scalar S

Building the chassis

  • 3 2020 40cm extrusion profiles
  • 2 v-slot Profiles2020 40cm (for Z Axis)
  • 2 Extrusions profiles 2020 30cm
  • 6 small squares
  • 2 Double squares
  • 20 pcs M4x8 screws
  • 20 Pcs M4 TNuts

Use 6 small squares and pre mount the screws and TNuts

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S


Do the same for the double squares

Châssis Scalar S


Tip

Move the squares on the corners. Yhe Tnut must be aligned with the extrusion profile groove.

Once properly aligned the TNuts will properly fit the groove and the square will naturally take it’s place

 

 

 


When you will tighten the screw, the Tnut will perfom 1/4 turn inside the extrusion profile as shown on the picture.

Check carefully that the TNut has performed the 1/4 turn so it’s properly locked with with extrusion.

 

Make sure the Tnut is properly positioned before finalizing your build.

When you unscrew the screws, the TNut must unlock and perform 1/4 turn on the other side. This will allows you to remove the square and the nut.


Chassis base

For the base of the chassis, you will need to use only 2020 standard extrusion profiles. Keep the Vslot (often black) extrusions for later.


Z Axis

The extrusions on both sides (here on the right and on the left) Are VSlots (often black)

The top extrusion profile is standard 2020 extrusion


Assembling both parts

Top viewChâssis Scalar S


Finish

List of parts

  • 6 end caps

use the 6 end caps as shown on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Start to push them by hand slightly.

 

 

 

 


Push them up to the end. use some force if needed. You may require an hammer to push them completely in some cases.

 

 

 


 

[Scalar M] chassis Assembly

List of parts

  • 8 x  square holders
  • 32 x M6x12mm screws
  • 32 x  M6 T-Nuts
  • 4 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • 6 x side covers
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

General tips when using 3030 aluminum extrusion

The printer kit chassis is based on Aluminum extrusion of various sizes, of some metallic square holders and a set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 

 


Each square holder is coming with a set of 4 M6x12 screws and 4 T-Nuts .

Mounting square holders :
Off course you can do it many ways, but we will give you here the easier way we found, that allows you to quickly assemble your kit.

 

 

 


Take 2 M6 screws and place them on 2 side by side slots.
Then prepare the T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 


Start to screws the T-Nuts slightly .

 

 

 

 

 

 


The best is to place the T-Nuts so that they are parallel to each other.

 

 

 

 

 


Then approach then from the extrusion and slide them inside the extrusion slot.

 

 

 

 

 


Here is a side view, the nuts must be aligned with the extrusion slot so that they can perfectly fit inside.


Once aligned you should be able to properly fit the nuts inside the slot.

 

 

 

 


When screwing the M6 screws, the nut must perform a 90° angle turn and place lock the whole system as shown in the picture.

It can happen that 1 nut won’t turn properly because of various reasons. Be careful that it fully turns otherwise the lock performed buy the nut won’t be efficient.

So take a few seconds to make sure that each Nut has properly turned 90° inside the slot . When you unscrews the nut, it should perform another 90° angle counterclockwise and allow the whole system to be unmounted from the extrusion profile.


Base assembly (Video)

List of parts :

  • 4 x square holders
  • 16 x M6x12mm screws
  • 16 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 6 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

 

 


Place all the extrusion as shown on the picture.

. Now pre-assembled each of the 4 square holders with their set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 


Here is a zoomed view of each corner of the assembly with pre-mounted square holders.


Screw each square holder on each corners


Here is the chassis base once every square holders are in place.

 

 

 

 

 


Side mounts assembly (video)

List of parts :

  • 2 square holders
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profiles
  • [Provided] 1  Allen key

 

 


Measure 160cm taking into reference the end of 1 corner (On the video we measure 128mm from the inside of the base =>160-30mm = 130mm)

So 160mm is from outside of the base and 130mm (or 128mm) is from the inside.

16cm will give you the proper place where to position the side mounts.


Once in place screw them using a square holder.

 

 

 

 

 


Here are the side mounts once assembled.

 

 

 

 

 


Assembly of the top mount  (video)

List of parts

  • 2 x square holders
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

For this step, take the longer extrusion profile (50cm) that should be remaining and place it on top of the side mounts.Use a pair of square holders to fix it.
This should look like on the picture.


 

Finish (Video)

List of parts

  •  6 side covers

Take the 6 side covers that look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 

 


Place them in front of the far sides of the extrusion profiles. You might need to push a little bit in order to properly position them.

 

 

 

 


Push them entirely with some force. If you struggle too much use a hammer and slightly hit the flat side of the side covers, then they should get inside easily.

 

 

 

 


Final result

[Scalar M] Montage du chassis

Liste des pièces

  • 8 équerres (Grandes et petites)
  • 20 vis M6x12mm
  • 20 écrous M6 tête marteau 8mm
  • 6 profilé 40cm
  • 1 profilé 50cm
  • 6 caches noirs
  • [Fournie] 1 clef Allen

Principe de base du montage des profilés 3030

Le kit du châssis contient principalement des profilés de tailles différentes, des équerres en métal et un jeu de vis/écrous.

 

 

 

 


es équerres vont de paire avec 2 ou 4 vis M6x12 et 2/4 écrous marteau M6.Fixation des équerres :
Bien sûr, plusieurs façon de faire sont possible. Nous vous présentons ici la façon que nous trouvons la plus simple et la plus rapide à exécuter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Munissez-vous de 2 vis M6 et placez les dans 2 fentes  juxtaposés.
Préparez les écrous marteaux

 

 

 


Amorcez les écrous marteau dans les vis M6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


L’idéal est de positionner les écrous parallèles au sol pour la suite.

 

 

 

 


Approchez l’équerre avec son jeux de boulon dans l’axe de la gorge du profilé.

 

 

 


Vue de profil du montage, les écrous doivent être alignés avec l’axe de la gorge du profilé pour qu’ils rentrent dedans.


Une fois bien alignés les écrous marteau passent parfaitement dans la gorge du profilé et l’équerre peut se positionner correctement à ce moment là.

 

 

 


En vissant la Vis M6 l’écrou marteau doit tourner et effectuer 1/4 de tour sur lui même et se positionner comme sur la photo.

De temps en temps il peu arriver que l’écrou ne tourne pas correctement. Dans ce cas l’élément ne sera pas correctement fixé.

Prenez donc bien soins de vérifier que l’écrou est bien positionné avant de serrer complètement votre vis.Quand vous dé serez ce type de vis/écrous, l’écrou marteau doit effectuer 1/4 de tour dans le sens contraire, se remettant ainsi dans une position permettant d’enlever l’élément.


 

Montage du socle (Video)

Liste des pièces :

  • 4 petites équerres
  • 8 vis M6x12mm
  • 8 écrous M6 tête marteau 8mm
  • 4 profilé 40cm
  • 1 clef Allen fournie

 

 

 


Placez les profilés en aluminium comme montré sur la photo.

Pré montez chaque équerre avec son jeu de visse/écrou.

 

 

 

 


Une vue zoomé sur les coins du montage avec les équerres pré montés.


Vissez les équerres à chaque coin


Voici la base du châssis une fois montée.

(Photo non contractuelle, vous devriez avoir 4 petites équerres)

 

 

 


 

Montage des montants (vidéo)

Liste des pièces :

  • 2 équerres
  • 8 vis M6x12mm
  • 8 écrous M6 tête marteau 8mm
  • 2 profilé 40cm
  • 1 clef Allen fournie

 


 

Mesurez 160mm en prenant comme référence le bout du profilé de 400mm.

Sur la vidéo vous verrez 128mm.

128mm (ou 130mm) sont pris à partir de l’intérieur de la base du châssis.

Les profilés faisant 30mm d’éppaisseur, on retrombe sur nos 128/130mm si on mesure à l’intérieur.

 

160mm vous donne la position ou placer vos montant.

 

 

 

 


Une fois en place, fixez les montants avec une équerre

 

 

 

 


Les montants une fois montés.

 

 

 

 


 

Montage de la barre supérieure (vidéo)

Liste des pièces

  • 2 équerres
  • 8 vis M6x12mm
  • 8 écrous M6 tête marteau 8mm
  • 1 profilé 50cm
  • 1 clef Allen fournie

Pour cette étape, prenez le plus grand des profilés (50cm) et posez le au dessus des montants. Fixez le avec 1 paire d’équerre.
Cela devrait ressembler à quelque chose comme ça:


 

Finitions (Vidéo)

Liste des pièces

  •  6 caches en plastic

Prenez les 6 caches en plastic  semblables à la photo.

 

 

 

 


Amorcez le cache au bout d’un profilé. Vous allez devoir forcer légèrement afin de bien le positionner.

 

 

 

 


Rentrez-le entièrement en forçant légèrement. Si ce dernier à du mal à rentrer, vous pouvez vous aider d’un marteau en tapant doucement sur le cache, ce dernier devrait rentrer facilement.

 


 

Résultat final

Scalar XL chassis assembly


List of parts

  • 8 x  square holders (2 big and 6 small)
  • 20 x M6x12mm screws
  • 20 x  M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • 6 x side covers
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

General tips when using 3030 aluminum extrusion

The printer kit chassis is based on Aluminum extrusion of various sizes, of some metallic square holders and a set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 


Each square holder is coming with a set of 2 or 4 M6x12 screws and 2/4 T-Nuts .

Keep the big one for the side mounts.
Use the small ones for the base and top.

Mounting square holders :
Off course you can do it many ways, but we will give you here the easier way we found, that allows you to quickly assemble your kit.

 

 

 

 


Take 2 M6 screws and place them on 2 side by side slots.
Then prepare the T-Nuts.

 

 


 

 

 


Start to screws the T-Nuts slightly .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The best is to place the T-Nuts so that they are parallel to each other.

 

 

 

 


Then approach then from the extrusion and slide them inside the extrusion slot.

 

 

 


Here is a side view, the nuts must be aligned with the extrusion slot so that they can perfectly fit inside.


Once aligned you should be able to properly fit the nuts inside the slot.

 

 

 


When screwing the M6 screws, the nut must perform a 90° angle turn and place lock the whole system as shown in the picture.

It can happen that 1 nut won’t turn properly because of various reasons. Be careful that it fully turns otherwise the lock performed buy the nut won’t be efficient.

So take a few seconds to make sure that each Nut has properly turned 90° inside the slot . When you unscrews the nut, it should perform another 90° angle counterclockwise and allow the whole system to be unmounted from the extrusion profile.


 

Base assembly

List of parts :

  • 4 x square holders (small ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

 


Place all the extrusion as shown on the picture.

Notice the 40cm extrusion are placed on the sides and so that they are inside the chassis. Also the 60cm extrusions will respectively be placed on top and at the bottom of them. Now pre-assembled each of the 4 square holders with their set of screws + T-Nuts.

 


Here is a zoomed view of each corner of the assembly with pre-mounted square holders.


Screw each square holder on each corners


Here is the chassis base once every square holders are in place. (You should have 4 small square holders)

 

 

 

 


 

Side mounts assembly (video)

List of parts :

  • 2 square holders (big ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 2 50cm extrusion profiles
  • [Provided] 1  Allen key

 


 

Take as reference the bottom side of a 60cm extrusion profile, and measure 16cm from it going on the 40cm extrusion.

16cm will give you the proper place where to position the side mounts.

 

 

 

 

 


Once in place screw them using a square holder.

 

 

 

 


Here are the side mounts once assembled.

 

 

 

 


 

Assembly of the top mount  (video)

List of parts

  • 2 x square holders (small ones)
  • 4 x M6x12mm screws
  • 4 x T-Nuts
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

For this step, take the longer extrusion profile (70cm) that should be remaining and place it on top of the side mounts.Use a pair of square holders to fix it.
This should look like on the picture. Notice however that the top mount we present you are 2 x 50cm extrusion profiles attached by a center plastic mount. On your side you should have only 1x70cm aluminum extrusion

Finish

List of parts

  •  6 side covers

Take the 6 side covers that look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Place them in front of the far sides of the extrusion profiles. You might need to push a little bit in order to properly position them.

 

 

 

 


Push them entirely with some force. If you struggle too much use a hammer and slightly hit the flat side of the side covers, then they should get inside easily.

 

 

 

 


 

Final result

12V 360W power supply installation

List of parts

  • Power supply unit 220V – 12V 360W 30A previously assembled (see this article)
  • 3 M6x12 screws
  • 3 M6 T-Nut
  • 2 M4x10mm screws
  • 1 power supply support
  • 1 side support
  • [provided] 1 allen key
  • [not provided ] 1 cruciform screw diver

Take the Power supply support that will maintain the PSU in place.

Prepare 2 set of screws/T-Nut on the 2 M6 holes.

 

 

 


Look for the 2 side screws that will be used to screw the support.

 

 

 

 


On one side of the power supply, you will find at the bottom only 1 screw hole and on the other side you will get 2.

 

 

 


Now take the 2 M4x10mm screws

 

 

 

 


Place the support the 2 holes on the support are aligned with the ones on the power supply

 

 

 


Start by inserting the first M4 screws so that you can  hold the support and the power supply together.

 

 

 

 


Now do the same for the 2nd screw

 

 

 

 


Slowly aligne the Power supply unit on the side of the vertical aluminum extrusion.

When the square holders of the vertical mounts are in front of you this should be on the left of the chassis as exposed on the picture.

You should be able to slide the T-Nuts inside the vertical slot of the extrusion.

 


Once inside the slot the power supply should be parallel to the vertical extrusion.

 

 

 

 


Align the top of the of the power supply with the top of the chassis. If you have followed the previous steps properly the IEC power plug and the power switch should be the closest of the chassis.

 

 

 


Now screw the M6 screw to hold the power supply in place.

 

 

 

 


The second screw is only here to secure the whole assembly.

 

 

 

 


Take the side support that allows to make sure the power supply stay still.

Prepare a set of screw/T-Nut as shown on the picture.

 

 

 


Screw it as high as possible inside the chassis . Here is touching the top square holder

The plastic is flexible enough, so you should find it easy  to place the plastic part around the power supply.

extruder assembly on the chassis

Special Note:

This documentation was made for Greg’s extruder model and some additions were made to fit the currently provided MK8 bowden extruder.

Bowden MK8 extruder

Greg’s extruder assembled

List of parts

  • 1 Extrudeur already assembled (see full assembly here ici)
  • 2 M6x12mm screws
  • 2 T-nuts
  • [provided] 1 allen key

 

Start by preparing 2 set of screw/t-nuts so that they are located below the big gear wheel.

 

 

 


The goal here is to place it right next to the power supply unit on the top aluminum extrusion.

If you look at the printer from the front, the power supply should get to your right.

On this photo this is the back view.

 


Place the extruder so that the screws start to get inside the slots located below the aluminum extrusion.

The picture shows you an example.

 

 

For MK8 Extruder the process is very similar as shown on this picture, except that the motor is located in the opposite side.

 

 

 

 

 


The side view (right view) show the location of the T-Nuts, they should perfectly fit inside the extrusion slot.

If you already placed some side cover, remove it slowly with a flat screw diver, it’s interesting that it’s removed so that it will be easier for you to make sure the screws are properly attached. Otherwise the T-Nut on the edge of the extrusion might not turn and will not self lock.

 

For MK8 Extruder, again it’s very similar.

The stepper motor is below the top extrusion profile.

 

 

 

 


Here a zoom showing how it should fit inside. Those 2 screws will make the most of the work keeping this extruder in place.

 

 

 


Once properly inside the slots, screw it and add a side set of Screw+T-Nut .

You should be able to easily insert those even if sometimes the T-Nut won’t align properly with the screw.

 

 


Now screw it. It will maintain properly the extruder on the side and prevent it from vibrating.

 

 

 


Now you can put back the side cover.

The extruder might slightly go beyond the extrusion. So the side cover should align with the side of the extruder.

 

 

 


Push it in place to finish the assembly.

 

 

 

 

For MK8 extruder the back view should look like this picture.

 

Fixation of electronics on the chassis

 

Notice:

Electronic box V1.0:

Inside some kits, an electronic box is provided already assembled.

The electronic inside might already be installed.

In this cas just place the box on the top of the chassis at the same location as the electronic support at the bottom of this page.

In the other case, the assembly is very similar, the arduino is to be screwed first and then the Ramps board comes on top of it.

The 4 holes are asymetrical, so the USB  connector of the arduino board and the Power terminals of the Ramps board should all exit on the right side of the box. On this picture, they should exit at the bottom of it.

The LCD scree is to be screwed with 4 M3x8mm screws on it’s dedicated support.

The support will then be screwed on the other part of the box using 4 M3X20mm screws.

Electronic Box V1:

The fan grid will directly be screwed using 4 M3X8mm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The electronic box can be mounted on the printer as shown on these pictures

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

Electronic Box V2.5:

Starting from V2.0 the electronic box has became modular.

Each wall of the box is a separate plastic part that can be upgraded, changed, adapated depending on your needs.

 

 

 

 

 

On this picture you can see that each part is independent from each other and can be assembled easily.

On version 2.5 of the box the 80mm fan is placed on the back of the box and the LCD screeen is switch from front to back.

The left side has now a simple grid for airflow output.

Here is a picture of the box assembled.

 

 

 

And here a view of the box from the side.

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

How to mount Box V2.5:

 

The location of the box is exactly the same as previously.

The change here is the location of the 80mm fan, now placed at the back of the box.

The main change from Version 2.0 is the position of the LCD screen.

The front of the printer now becomes the back and vice versa.

Here is the view from the other side of the printer.

The Z axis stepper motors are now facing you and you have direct acces to the hot end.

The spool holder is now on your right.

 

 

here is a close look of the box showing you that the LCD screen has more stability, as it’s closer to the top extrusion profile.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Standard Case

List of parts :

  • 1 Arduino + ramps + LCD already assembled
  • 5 M6x12mm screws
  • 5 M6 T-Nuts
  • [provided] 1 allen key

Take the LCD module previously assembled and prepare the M6 Screws + T-Nuts.

Place  2 screws and the outside of the plastic parts.

 

 

 


Now take the Arduino plastic support .

Take it so that the Scalar logo is oriented toward the top, then place 3 sets of T-Nuts+Screws on the following corners:

  • Top right
  • bottom right
  • bottom left

When looking at the machine from behind, place the previous parton the top right corner, it’s the corner where the X axis motor is located as shown on the photo.

Now screw the electronic module so that the LCD module is located on the top aluminum extrusion and the other electronic module fixed on top right corner of the 2 aluminum profiles .

The 2 top screws are screwed on the top extrusion, and the 3rd bottom right screw is tightened on the side extrusion.

In order to keep a clean way for future cable sets, you can place the exceeding LCD wires between the square holders of the chassis and the plastic electronic support.


Here is a global front view of the LCD located at the top left corner.

 

 

 

 


 

For those having the LCD box,  It’s placed at the same location as the other model.

Here the picture shows the back of the printer (the opposite side as the previous picture).

The front of the LCD is placed on the same side as the power supply, but on the right side.

 

 

 

 

Power supply wiring on chassis

List of parts :

  • 1 long clip (plastic part)
  • 1 short clip (plastic part)
  • 1 spool holder X10 (plastic part)
  • 2 M6X12mm screws
  • 2  M6 T-Nut
  • [not provided ] 1 power supply cable
  • [not provided ] 1 screw diver
  • [provided] 1 Allen key

The best is to rotate the printer chassis as shown in the picture. The purpose is to make it easier to place the T-Nuts inside the aluminum profile Slot.The spool holder is made so that you cannot pre mount the screws + T-Nut before placing the plastic part.

 

 


Focus on the Z axis motor wire.

The goal here is to place it inside the aluminum profile slot.

 

 

 


 

Place it as shown on the picture .

 

 

 

 

 


The other side of the wire must exit on the top of the power supply module.

This cable will then get inside the slot the is maintaining the extruder module.

It should go behind the power supply plastic cover.

 


 

Slide it inside the slot so that it’s in place for the future wiring steps.

 

 

 

 

 


The wiring should look like this.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Connect the end of the 220V power supply plug to the power supply.

Then slide the cable inside the same slot used for Z axis stepper motor wire.

 

 

 


 

Now take a « short » clip.

Those clips are made to be clipped on top of the aluminum profile slot and only secure one side of the aluminum extrusion.

When you place it over the aluminum extrusion you should hear a « click » meaning it’s properly in place.

 

 


 

This clip will be used to secure the base of the cables inside the aluminum extrusion slot.place it just near the z axis motor support.

 

 

 

 


 

Now take a « long » clip.

This model allows to close 3 sides of the aluminum extrusion at once.

 

 

 

 


 

Place it at the other top end of the machine, just behind the power supply module. The U shape must allows you to keep in place wires that are on the side where the use of the short clip would be impossible.

 

 

 


Here, a bottom view showing the long clip in place.

 

 

 

 

 


You now need the spool holder with the « X10″ marking » .

This plastic part’s purpose is to hold and keep in place the plastic filament during printing.

 

 

 


Place it on the side as shown on the picture, perpendicular to the power supply module.

The best is to place it as close as possible from the extruder (so to the top of the machine) .

 

 

 


Here the inclined position should help you to align the T-Nuts with the fixation holes of the spool holder.

You can use a small screw diver to keep the T-Nut in place while inserting the M6 screw.

 

 


 

Once in place, just add the M6X12mm screw.

This should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 


Secure it with a 2nd set of T-Nut/Screw and that’s it..

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Scalar XL] Montage du chassis

Liste des pièces

  • 8 équerres (Grandes et petites)
  • 20 vis M6x12mm
  • 20 écrous M6 tête marteau 8mm
  • 2 profilé 40cm
  • 2 profilé 50cm
  • 2 profilé 60cm
  • 1 profilé 70cm
  • 6 caches noirs
  • [Fournie] 1 clef Allen

Principe de base du montage des profilés 3030

Le kit du châssis contient principalement des profilés de tailles différentes, des équerres en métal (grandes pour les montants et petites pour le reste) et un jeu de vis/écrous.

 

 

 

 


Les équerres vont de paire avec 2 ou 4 vis M6x12 et 2/4 écrous marteau M6.Fixation des équerres :
Bien sûr, plusieurs façon de faire sont possible. Nous vous présentons ici la façon que nous trouvons la plus simple et la plus rapide à exécuter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Munissez-vous de 2 vis M6 et placez les dans 2 fentes  juxtaposés.
Préparez les écrous marteaux

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Amorcez les écrous marteau dans les vis M6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


L’idéal est de positionner les écrous parallèles au sol pour la suite.

 

 

 

 


Approchez l’équerre avec son jeux de boulon dans l’axe de la gorge du profilé.

 

 

 


Vue de profil du montage, les écrous doivent être alignés avec l’axe de la gorge du profilé pour qu’ils rentrent dedans.


Une fois bien alignés les écrous marteau passent parfaitement dans la gorge du profilé et l’équerre peut se positionner correctement à ce moment là.

 

 

 


En vissant la Vis M6 l’écrou marteau doit tourner et effectuer 1/4 de tour sur lui même et se positionner comme sur la photo.

De temps en temps il peu arriver que l’écrou ne tourne pas correctement. Dans ce cas l’élément ne sera pas correctement fixé.

Prenez donc bien soins de vérifier que l’écrou est bien positionné avant de serrer complètement votre vis.Quand vous dé serez ce type de vis/écrous, l’écrou marteau doit effectuer 1/4 de tour dans le sens contraire, se remettant ainsi dans une position permettant d’enlever l’élément.


 

Montage du socle

Liste des pièces :

  • 4 petites équerres
  • 8 vis M6x12mm
  • 8 écrous M6 tête marteau 8mm
  • 2 profilé 40cm
  • 2 profilé 60cm
  • 1 clef Allen fournie

 


Placez les profilés en aluminium comme montré sur la photo.
Notez que les profilés de 400mm se placent à l’intérieur du chassis et que les profilés de 600mm se placent au dessus et en dessous.

Pré montez chaque équerre avec son jeu de visse/écrou.

 


Une vue zoomé sur les coins du montage avec les équerres pré montés.


Vissez les équerres à chaque coin


Voici la base du châssis une fois montée (Photo non contractuelle, vous devriez avoir 4 petites équerres)

 

 

 

 


 

Montage des montants (vidéo)

Liste des pièces :

  • 2 grandes équerres
  • 4 vis M6x12mm
  • 4 écrous M6 tête marteau 8mm
  • 2 profilé 50cm
  • 1 clef Allen fournie

 


 

Mesurez 160mm en prenant comme référence le bord d’un profilé de 600mm.160mm vous donne la position ou placer vos montant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Une fois en place, fixez les montants avec une équerre

 

 

 

 


Les montants une fois montés.

 

 

 

 


 

Montage de la barre supérieure (vidéo)

Liste des pièces

  • 2 petites équerres
  • 4 vis M6x12mm
  • 4 écrous M6 tête marteau 8mm
  • 1 profilé 70cm
  • 1 clef Allen fournie

Pour cette étape, prenez le plus grand des profilés (70cm) et posez le au dessus des montants. Fixez le avec 1 paire d’équerre.
Cela devrait ressembler à quelque chose comme ça:

Finitions

Liste des pièces

  •  6 caches en plastic

Prenez les 6 caches en plastic qui semblables à la photo.

 

 

 

 


Amorcez le cache au bout d’un profilé. Vous allez devoir forcer légèrement afin de bien le positionner.

 

 

 

 


Rentrez-le entièrement en forçant légèrement. Si ce dernier à du mal à rentrer, vous pouvez vous aider d’un marteau en tapant doucement sur le cache, ce dernier devrait rentrer facilement.

 


 

Résultat final