Archives par étiquette : assembly

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PS_ON kit assembly

PS_ON kit wiring diagram

PS_ON kit wiring diagram

Working principle

This kit allows to electrically switch off your 3D printer when your print are finished

In order to achieve this, a power câble is being instrumented, and a static relay provide enough control for the 3D printer controler to allow this feature to work.

STL of the enclosure

The PS_ON enclosure box is available for download on thingiverse

Wiring in few steps

diagramme kit PS_ON
diagramme kit PS_ON

Detailed steps for wiring in pictures

Kit PS_ON


Modular switch



Power supply coord preparation





Power coord connection to static relay






Soldering of brown and yellow/green wires

After soldering the pairs of electric wires, make sure that the thrincable tubing is placed over the soldering location. Also make sure to thrink the tube using a matches, lighter…






Securing power cables



Signal cable wiring

In certain kits, this wire might already be wired to the static relay unit.

In the other case make sure to cut the 2 pins connector from the cable and to keep the part with the 3 pins connector.


Securing the signal wire inside the enclosure

Closing the enclosure

Kit PS_ON

Connection on 3D printer Controler board(Ramps 1.4)

 PS_ON module only:

The 2 arrows shows where to connect the wires from the PS_ON Module

  • The black wire is to be connected at the bottom of the schematic
  • The red wire is to be connected at the top of the schematic

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

PS_ON Module + BLTouch:

  • The module has 1 black connector with 3 pins
  • Only 2 pins are connected to this black connector
  • You need to remove the metallic connector
  • You might need a thin blade in order to lift the strips and pull the wire to remove it from the black housing.

Use the provided 2×1 Pin housing

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

  • Insert the metallic connector inside. You should hear a « click » sound once properly in place
  • You should have this

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

You will need to add the jumper where shown on the schematic below.

The black and red wire location is also shown on the schematic

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

Gcode changes in your slicer (CURA)

PS_ON et Cura

Scalar S – Chassis Assembly

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S

Check the PDF 3D to get a global view of the assembled chassis of the Scalar S

Building the chassis

  • 3 2020 40cm extrusion profiles
  • 2 v-slot Profiles2020 40cm (for Z Axis)
  • 2 Extrusions profiles 2020 30cm
  • 6 small squares
  • 2 Double squares
  • 20 pcs M4x8 screws
  • 20 Pcs M4 TNuts

Use 6 small squares and pre mount the screws and TNuts

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S


Do the same for the double squares

Châssis Scalar S


Tip

Move the squares on the corners. Yhe Tnut must be aligned with the extrusion profile groove.

Once properly aligned the TNuts will properly fit the groove and the square will naturally take it’s place

 

 

 


When you will tighten the screw, the Tnut will perfom 1/4 turn inside the extrusion profile as shown on the picture.

Check carefully that the TNut has performed the 1/4 turn so it’s properly locked with with extrusion.

 

Make sure the Tnut is properly positioned before finalizing your build.

When you unscrew the screws, the TNut must unlock and perform 1/4 turn on the other side. This will allows you to remove the square and the nut.


Chassis base

For the base of the chassis, you will need to use only 2020 standard extrusion profiles. Keep the Vslot (often black) extrusions for later.


Z Axis

The extrusions on both sides (here on the right and on the left) Are VSlots (often black)

The top extrusion profile is standard 2020 extrusion


Assembling both parts

Top viewChâssis Scalar S


Finish

List of parts

  • 6 end caps

use the 6 end caps as shown on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Start to push them by hand slightly.

 

 

 

 


Push them up to the end. use some force if needed. You may require an hammer to push them completely in some cases.

 

 

 


 

Assemblage du Plateau Chauffant V2 (tout aluminium)

Assemblage du plateau chauffant en aluminiumAssemblage du Plateau Chauffant V2 en aluminium

Liste des pièces :

  • Scalar S : 1 plateau chauffant silicone (190x190mm 250W 220V)
  • Scalar S:  1plaque d’aluminium (220x230x2mm) (Base)
  • Scalar S:  1 plaque d’aluminium (220x230x3mm) (Plateau)
  • Scalar M : 1 plateau chauffant silicone (300x200mm 400W 220V)
  • Scalar M:  2 plaques d’aluminium (300x220x3mm) (Base + plateau)
  • Scalar L : 1 plateau chauffant silicone (300x300mm 600W 220V)
  • Scalar L:  2 plaques d’aluminium (300x330x3mm) (Base + plateau)
  • Scalar XL : 1 Plateau chauffant silicone (400x300mm 700W 220V)
  • Scalar XL:  2 plaques d’aluminium (435x320x3mm) (Base + plateau)
  • Scalar XL Premium : 1 Plateau chauffant silicone (400x300mm 700W 220V)
  • Scalar XL Premium:  2 plaques d’aluminium (435x320x3mm) (Base + plateau)

 

  • 1 feuille d’aluminium de cuisine
  • 1 thermistor câblé (1 mètre)
  • 1 stylo ou crayon de papier
  • 1 paire de ciseaux
  • 1 rouleau de polyimide 50mm
  • 1 bout d’adhésif aluminium

 


 

Prenez la plaque d’aluminium correspondant à votre plateau supérieure.

Il possède seulement 4 trous aux 4 coins du plateau.

 

 

 

Ce plateau possède une face avec un film de protection et une face brute.

Sur cette photo vous pouvez voir la face possédant le film de protection.

Cette face est destinée à être votre surface d’impression. Vous devrez enlever le film de protection avant d’imprimer

 

 

La partie brute est la partie intérieure du plateau sur laquelle vous  allez coller l’élément chauffant en silicone ainsi que le thermistor.

Commencez donc par prendre la face brute du plateau face à vous.

 

 

 


 

Positionnez l’élément chauffant en silicone (orange) sans le coller au milieu du plateau en aluminium.

Faites un repère sur le plateau aluminium afin de le coller au centre.

La photo vous montre l‘exemple pour la Scalar XL.

La surface en silicone est plus petite que la surface totale de la plaque d’aluminium.

 

 

Cette photo vous montre l’exemple pour la Scalar M.

Ici l’élément chauffant est de la même longueur que la plaque d’aluminium, seule la largeur est plus petite.

Faite en sorte de laisser un espace équivalent en haut et en bas du plateau  afin de libérer les trous de la plaque d’aluminium.

 


 

Prenez des marques au niveau du bord de l’élément chauffant.

Ceci vous permettra de repositionner facilement votre élément chauffant au moment du collage.

 

 

Faites pareil en bas et en haut de votre plateau pour la Scalar M et aussi sur les côtés pour la Scalar XL.

 

 

 


 

Prenez maintenant votre thermistor déjà câblé.

Positionnez le sur votre plaque d’aluminium de tel façon qu’il soit à 1/4 de la longueur du bord du plateau.

 

 

 

Cela permet de conserver un maximum de longueur du câble du thermistor tout en plaçant le thermistor à un endroit représentatif du plateau.

 

 

 

 


 

Prenez maintenant un bout d’adhésif aluminium (ou polyimide / Kapton) qui vous servira pour sécuriser votre thermistor sur la plaque d’aluminium.

L’avantage de ces adhésifs est qu’ils supportent très bien les températures supérieures à 110°C.

 

ici une vue globale vous permettant de juger l’emplacement du thermistor.

 

 

 

 

Une fois le bout du thermistor sécurisé, votre montage devrait ressembler à celui ci.

 

 

 

 

Afin de terminer la sécurisation du thermistor, il est intéressant de sécuriser ses fils juste en sortie de plaque aluminium.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ici une photo du thermistor totalement sécurisé

 

 

 

 

 


 

Maintenant vous pouvez retirer le film de protection de l’adhésif 3M qui se trouve sous votre élément chauffant.

 

 

 

Replacez le en vous aidant des marques que vous avez faites précédemment.

Prenez soins de bien aplatir toute la bande chauffante afin que l’adhésif adhère correctement à la plaque d’aluminium.

 

 

En principe votre thermistor devrait se retrouver en sandwich entre votre plaque d’aluminium et votre élément chauffant. Ceci à pour but de mieux sécuriser le thermistor, et aussi d’obtenir la meilleure mesure possible.

 

 


 

Afin d’optimiser l’isolation thermique de votre montage, prenez une bande de film aluminium de cuisine. Tirez la de telle manière qu’elle recouvre la plus grade partie de votre élément chauffant.

Prenez soins de découper/tailler les parties qui dépassent de votre élément chauffant.

Ceci vous servira pour sécuriser votre feuille d’aluminium à la plaque d’aluminium en utilisant votre adhésif polyimide.

 

La feuille d’aluminium comporte 2 côtés:

  • Un côté « miroir« 
  • Un côté « mate« 
  1. Faites en sorte de positionner le côté « miroir » de la feuille d’aluminium face à l’élément chauffant. Cela permet  d’augmenter l’efficacité de la feuille aluminium et de réfléchir un maximum de rayonnement infrarouge vers la partie utile du plateau.
  2. Ensuite aplatissez la feuille un maximum contre la surface en silicone. Cette dernière devrait « coller » naturellement contre le silicone.
  3. Coupez les parties du feuillard aluminium qui dépassent du silicone.
  4. Sécurisez proprement  le feuillard aluminium avec du polyimide en tirant une bande sur toute la longueur du plateau. Aplatissez-le bien, en évitant un maximum de bulles.
  5. Coupez les parties du polyimide/Kapton qui dépassent de votre plateau. Le plus simple est d’utiliser un scalpel ou un cutter pour découper proprement le polyimide/Kapton.

 


 

Assemblage du bas du plateau chauffant. (Scalar XL et Scalar M)

 

 

Le plateau chauffant est fourni avec une plaque inférieure possédant des trous supplémentaires permettant de fixer les supports de roulements et de courroie du plateau.

La plaque ressemble à cette photo.

 

Vous devriez aussi avoir un jeux de rondelles, vis et écrous ainsi que les supports de roulement et le support de courroie:

  • 20 rondelles M3
  • 10 vis M3X12mm
  • 10 écrous M3 Nylstop
  • 4 Supports de roulements avec roulements LM8UU dont 1 avec un support de vis M4 (pour le end stop)
  • 1 support de courroie.
  • 1 plaque aluminium 3mm d’épaisseur avec 16 trous.

Le dessous de la plaque devrait posséder un film de protection.

Vous pouvez retirer le film dès à présent, le sens de la plaque à peu d’importance. Pour des raisons de clarté nous allons conserver ce film afin que vous puissiez bien distinguer à quel côté nous faisons référence.

 

 


 

Installation des supports de roulements

Attention, lisez bien les explications jusqu’à la fin, car le support de roulement différent des autres doit être placé à un endroit spécifique par rapport aux autres.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Chaque kit de support de roulement comporte:

  • 1 support de roulement avec un roulement LM8UU
  • 4 rondelles M3
  • 2 vis M3X12mm
  • 2 écrous M3 nylstop

 

 

Sur les côtés de la plaque vous trouvez des emplacements avec 2 trous, l’un à côté de l’autre. Ces emplacements sont dédiés aux supports de roulement.

Placez-y le support et utilisez 2 rondelles et 2 vis comme sur la photo.

 

 

 

 

Insérez les vis comme sur la photo. Ces dernières doivent traverser entièrement la plaque et laisser apparaître un filetage suffisant pour installer le dernier jeux de rondelles et d’écrous.

 

 

 

 

Voici une vue latérale montrant la vis qui traverse la plaque d’aluminium.

 

 

 

 

 

Placez et serrez les rondelles et écrous qui restent afin de sécuriser le support de roulement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ici une vue de derrière la plaque montrant le système Vis/rondelles/écrou.

 

 

 

 

 

Placez les supports de roulement de telle manière d’obtenir le support différent des autres placé/orienté comme sur le photo.

Ici, avec la plaque posé devant nous, le support se trouve le plus proche de nous sur la gauche.

 

 

 


 

Installation du support de courroie

Le support de courroie se positionne au milieu du plateau. Il permet d’y accrocher la courroie du plateau.

le kit comprend:

  • 2 vis M3x12
  • 2 écrous Nylstop M3
  • 4 rondelles M3
  • 1 support de courroie

 

 


 

Placez le support au milieu du plateau. Vous y trouverez 2 trous dédiés à ce support.

Sur certains modèles de support de courroie, vous trouverez 3 trous de fixation, sur d’autres modèles vous n’en trouverez que 2.

Avec le plateau en aluminium, le trou du milieu sur le support de courroie n’est pas utilisé.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Notez aussi le sens du support par rapport aux supports de roulement déjà installés.

L’ouverture permettant d’insérer la courroie se trouve du côté du support de roulement différent des autres. (ici à gauche).

 

 

Même principe que précédemment avec le couple Vis et rondelles M3.

 

 

 

 

 

Ici une vue latérale.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

De l’autre côté de la plaque, même principe, il vous faudra rajouté des rondelles.

 

 

 

 

Et des écrous Nylstop

 

 

 

 

 


Assemblage des 2 parties du plateau.

Maintenant que vous avez vos 2 parties du plateau de prêtes:

  • partie supérieure chauffante
  • partie inférieure avec roulements

Vous allez pouvoir assembler les 2 à l’aide de

  • 4 vis M4x25 à tête coniques
  • 4 ressorts
  • 4 écrous nylstop M4

Arrangez-vous pour placer le ressort entre les 2 plaques.

La tête conique des vis doivent venir s’insérer dans la plaque chauffante au niveau des chanfreins prévus à cet effet.

L’écrou nylstop vient sécuriser l’ensemble en bas du plateau possédant les roulement, du côté des roulements.

 

Installation des supports de tige lisse du plateau:

 

 

 

Heatbed V2 Assembly (Full Aluminum)

List of parts:

  • Scalar S : 1 silicone heater (190x190mm 250W 220V)
  • Scalar S: 1 aluminium plate (220x230x2mm) (Base)
  • Scalar S: 1 aluminium plate (220x230x3mm) (Plate)
  • Scalar M : 1 silicone heater (300x200mm 400W 220V)
  • Scalar M: 2 aluminium plates (300x220x3mm) (Base + plateau)
  • Scalar L : 1 silicone heater (300x300mm 600W 220V)
  • Scalar L: 2 aluminium plates (300x330x3mm) (Base + plateau)
  • Scalar XL : 1 silicone heater (400x300mm 700W 220V)
  • Scalar XL: 2 aluminium plates (435x320x3mm) (Base + plateau)

 

  • Scalar XL Premium : 1 silicone heater (400x300mm 700W 220V)
  • Scalar XL Premium: 2 aluminium plates (435x320x3mm) (Base + plateau)

 

  • 1 aluminium sheet used for cooking
  • 1 wired thermistor (1 meter)
  • 1 pen
  • 1 pair of scissors
  • 1 50mm polyimide/Kapton tape
  • 1 piece of aluminium tape

 


 

Take the aluminium plate corresponding to your print surface.

It has only 4 holes, one on each corners.

 

 

 

This pate has 1 face with a protection film and the other face with a raw surface.

In this picture you can see the face with the protection film.

This face is used for printing.

 

 

The other side with raw aluminium is destined to be the bottom of the heatbed where you are going to stick the heating element and the thermistor.

Take the raw side of the plate in front of you.

 

 

 


 

Place the heating element (orange) – don’t stick it yet – and place it in the middle of the aluminium plate..

Place some markings so that the silicone heater is at the center of the aluminium plate.

This pictures shows the example of the Scalar XL.

The silicone surface is smaller on all sides than the aluminium plate..

 

 

This picture shows the example of Scalar M.

Here the silicone heater has the same length but smaller width.

Make sure to have enough space around the corner-holes for later use.

 


 

Place some markings on the sides of the silicone heater.

This will help you later on to stick the silicone heater in the center.

 

 

Do the same at the top and bottom of the plate for Scalar M and also on the sides for Scalar XL.

 

 

 


 

Now take your thermistor .

Place it so that the end of the thermistor is located at 1/3rd of aluminium plate length from the side.

 

 

 

This will allow you to reuse the maximum of the thermistor wire’s length and keep a goo thermistor placement..

 

 

 

 


 

Take a small piece of aluminium tape (or Kapton / Polyimide tape) that will help you secure the thermistor end.

The main point in using these kind of tape is that they can support heats over 110°C..

 

 

here a picture showing the overall placement of the thermistor.

 

 

 

 

Once the thermistor ending secured your assembly should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 

In order to finalize thermistor placement, it’s interesting to stick the wires right on the edge of the aluminium plate..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a picture showing the thermistor fully secured.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now you can remove the 3M tape from the silicone heater .

 

 

 

Place it on the aluminium plate using your previous markings to make sure it’s centered.

make sure to properly press on all the surface of the silicone hater in order to evenly stick it on the aluminium plate.

 

 

Th thermistor should be right between both aluminum plate and silicone heater.

This ensures that the thermistor is properly secured and will provide proper measurements.

 

 


 

in order to optimize the thermal insulation, you can use aluminium sheets used for cooking so that it covers the maximum surface of the silicone heater..

Make sure that you remove the part of the aluminium sheet that extends over the silicone element..

This will help you to secure the aluminium sheet using kapton tape.

 

The aluminium sheet should have 2 different faces

  • 1  « mirror » side
  • 1 « mate » side
  1. Make sure to place the « mirror »  side toward the silicone heater. This will increase the efficiency of the aluminium sheet and will reflect a maximum of Infra-red radiation toward the useful part of the heatbed.
  2. Then push it against the silicone heater. it should stick naturally to it.
  3. Cut the excess of aluminium sheet that goes past the silicone heater surface.
  4. Secure the aluminium sheet with kapton tape and make sure to avoid air bubbles.
  5. Cut the parts of Kapton/polyimide tape that goes past the aluminium plate using a scalpel or a cutter.

 

 

[Scalar M] chassis Assembly

List of parts

  • 8 x  square holders
  • 32 x M6x12mm screws
  • 32 x  M6 T-Nuts
  • 4 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • 6 x side covers
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

General tips when using 3030 aluminum extrusion

The printer kit chassis is based on Aluminum extrusion of various sizes, of some metallic square holders and a set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 

 


Each square holder is coming with a set of 4 M6x12 screws and 4 T-Nuts .

Mounting square holders :
Off course you can do it many ways, but we will give you here the easier way we found, that allows you to quickly assemble your kit.

 

 

 


Take 2 M6 screws and place them on 2 side by side slots.
Then prepare the T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 


Start to screws the T-Nuts slightly .

 

 

 

 

 

 


The best is to place the T-Nuts so that they are parallel to each other.

 

 

 

 

 


Then approach then from the extrusion and slide them inside the extrusion slot.

 

 

 

 

 


Here is a side view, the nuts must be aligned with the extrusion slot so that they can perfectly fit inside.


Once aligned you should be able to properly fit the nuts inside the slot.

 

 

 

 


When screwing the M6 screws, the nut must perform a 90° angle turn and place lock the whole system as shown in the picture.

It can happen that 1 nut won’t turn properly because of various reasons. Be careful that it fully turns otherwise the lock performed buy the nut won’t be efficient.

So take a few seconds to make sure that each Nut has properly turned 90° inside the slot . When you unscrews the nut, it should perform another 90° angle counterclockwise and allow the whole system to be unmounted from the extrusion profile.


Base assembly (Video)

List of parts :

  • 4 x square holders
  • 16 x M6x12mm screws
  • 16 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 6 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

 

 


Place all the extrusion as shown on the picture.

. Now pre-assembled each of the 4 square holders with their set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 


Here is a zoomed view of each corner of the assembly with pre-mounted square holders.


Screw each square holder on each corners


Here is the chassis base once every square holders are in place.

 

 

 

 

 


Side mounts assembly (video)

List of parts :

  • 2 square holders
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profiles
  • [Provided] 1  Allen key

 

 


Measure 160cm taking into reference the end of 1 corner (On the video we measure 128mm from the inside of the base =>160-30mm = 130mm)

So 160mm is from outside of the base and 130mm (or 128mm) is from the inside.

16cm will give you the proper place where to position the side mounts.


Once in place screw them using a square holder.

 

 

 

 

 


Here are the side mounts once assembled.

 

 

 

 

 


Assembly of the top mount  (video)

List of parts

  • 2 x square holders
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

For this step, take the longer extrusion profile (50cm) that should be remaining and place it on top of the side mounts.Use a pair of square holders to fix it.
This should look like on the picture.


 

Finish (Video)

List of parts

  •  6 side covers

Take the 6 side covers that look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 

 


Place them in front of the far sides of the extrusion profiles. You might need to push a little bit in order to properly position them.

 

 

 

 


Push them entirely with some force. If you struggle too much use a hammer and slightly hit the flat side of the side covers, then they should get inside easily.

 

 

 

 


Final result

Scalar XL chassis assembly


List of parts

  • 8 x  square holders (2 big and 6 small)
  • 20 x M6x12mm screws
  • 20 x  M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • 6 x side covers
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

General tips when using 3030 aluminum extrusion

The printer kit chassis is based on Aluminum extrusion of various sizes, of some metallic square holders and a set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 


Each square holder is coming with a set of 2 or 4 M6x12 screws and 2/4 T-Nuts .

Keep the big one for the side mounts.
Use the small ones for the base and top.

Mounting square holders :
Off course you can do it many ways, but we will give you here the easier way we found, that allows you to quickly assemble your kit.

 

 

 

 


Take 2 M6 screws and place them on 2 side by side slots.
Then prepare the T-Nuts.

 

 


 

 

 


Start to screws the T-Nuts slightly .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The best is to place the T-Nuts so that they are parallel to each other.

 

 

 

 


Then approach then from the extrusion and slide them inside the extrusion slot.

 

 

 


Here is a side view, the nuts must be aligned with the extrusion slot so that they can perfectly fit inside.


Once aligned you should be able to properly fit the nuts inside the slot.

 

 

 


When screwing the M6 screws, the nut must perform a 90° angle turn and place lock the whole system as shown in the picture.

It can happen that 1 nut won’t turn properly because of various reasons. Be careful that it fully turns otherwise the lock performed buy the nut won’t be efficient.

So take a few seconds to make sure that each Nut has properly turned 90° inside the slot . When you unscrews the nut, it should perform another 90° angle counterclockwise and allow the whole system to be unmounted from the extrusion profile.


 

Base assembly

List of parts :

  • 4 x square holders (small ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

 


Place all the extrusion as shown on the picture.

Notice the 40cm extrusion are placed on the sides and so that they are inside the chassis. Also the 60cm extrusions will respectively be placed on top and at the bottom of them. Now pre-assembled each of the 4 square holders with their set of screws + T-Nuts.

 


Here is a zoomed view of each corner of the assembly with pre-mounted square holders.


Screw each square holder on each corners


Here is the chassis base once every square holders are in place. (You should have 4 small square holders)

 

 

 

 


 

Side mounts assembly (video)

List of parts :

  • 2 square holders (big ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 2 50cm extrusion profiles
  • [Provided] 1  Allen key

 


 

Take as reference the bottom side of a 60cm extrusion profile, and measure 16cm from it going on the 40cm extrusion.

16cm will give you the proper place where to position the side mounts.

 

 

 

 

 


Once in place screw them using a square holder.

 

 

 

 


Here are the side mounts once assembled.

 

 

 

 


 

Assembly of the top mount  (video)

List of parts

  • 2 x square holders (small ones)
  • 4 x M6x12mm screws
  • 4 x T-Nuts
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

For this step, take the longer extrusion profile (70cm) that should be remaining and place it on top of the side mounts.Use a pair of square holders to fix it.
This should look like on the picture. Notice however that the top mount we present you are 2 x 50cm extrusion profiles attached by a center plastic mount. On your side you should have only 1x70cm aluminum extrusion

Finish

List of parts

  •  6 side covers

Take the 6 side covers that look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Place them in front of the far sides of the extrusion profiles. You might need to push a little bit in order to properly position them.

 

 

 

 


Push them entirely with some force. If you struggle too much use a hammer and slightly hit the flat side of the side covers, then they should get inside easily.

 

 

 

 


 

Final result

12V 360W power supply assembly

List of parts

  • 220V/110V – 12V 360W 30A power supply
  • Plastic cover +  LCD Voltmeter
  • IEC power connector + fuse holder and integrated switch
  • 3 x  M4x10 screws
  • 2 x M4x10 screws
  • 2 x M4 Nuts
  • 2 x 6cm black wires
  • 2 x 15cm black wires
  • 1 x 15cm green/yellow wires
  • [Not Provided] 1 cruciform screw diver

Préparation (vidéo)

Make sure the Power supply input power is compatible with your country, for example:

  • Europe : 220V
  • USA : 120V

 

 

 

Top Cover (vidéo)

Insert 2 M4x6mm screws inside the dedicated holes just next to the voltmeter LCD.
The screw head should be inside the cover letting the screw thread out of the cover.

 

 

 

 

Insert the power supply connector inside the dedicated hole and make sure the screws can go threw it.

 

 

 

 

 

Screw 2 M4 nuts on the M4 Screws thet goes out of the cover as shown on the picture.

 

 

 

Here is the inside view of the cover with the M4 screw heads that must be accessible with a screw diver in order to tight them up with their nuts.

 

 

 

Ground cable connection (vidéo)

Take the 15cm Yellow/Green cable and plug it on the side of the IEC connector the most inside the cover part.

 

 

 

 

Phases wires connection (vidéo)

 

Take the 2 small 6cm long phase wires (here with blue terminals), and connect them just next to the Ground wire (yellow/green).

 

 

 

Now connect the wire terminals on the connection pin on the same rows the same way as in the picture.
It’s more easy to connect them like the picture in a crossed over manner.

 

Connection of the last phases wires (vidéo)

Now take the 15 cm wires (here with red terminals) and connect them on the last 2 pins in the bottom row as shown in the picture:

 

 

 

 

Connection of the terminals on the power supply (vidéo)

Align the top cover as shown on the picture, with the power supply connector on the right side and the power supply terminals facing you.
You can also open the security cover on the power supply in order to have access to the terminals.

 

 

Ground wire connection (vidéo)

Connect the ground wire on the dedicated terminal on the power supply.

The corresponding terminal is the 3rd one starting from the right with the following symbol :

 

 

 

 

Here a zoom on the dedicated terminal

 

 

 

 

 

 

Phase wires connection (vidéo)

Now connect the 2 other phase wires on the terminals left on the right side of the power supply. Connect them on the terminals marked with « N » and « L » letters

 

 

 

Voltmeter connection

2 wires must be left, they are the ones of the Digital VoltMeter.
On the power supply side, you will find 6 free terminals.
They are separated in 2 groups:

  • +V
  • -V

The 3 terminals on the left of the power supply (the ones most outside of it) with the « +V » symbol correspond to the +12V output

You need to connect the Red wire from the digital Voltmeter to one of the +V terminals.
You can pick 1 of the 3 terminals on the left as you want.
The « Black » wire left will have to be connected on one of the 3 terminals on the certer of the power supply with the « -V » symbol
The following pictures show you how to proceed.

Zoom on the wires.

 

 

 

 

 

You can then close the security cover:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Output voltage tuning (vidéo)

This type of power supply allows to slightly adjust the output voltage using a small trim resistor and a screw diver.

 

In order to prevent you from any electrical hazard, we strongly recommend that you slightly close the cover before switching on the power supply. You might also consider having a quick access tuning trim (here on top of the picture.

  • Before switch the power on, make sure the Power switch is on the « 0 » position.
  • Also take a moment to check if a fuse is inserted inside the middle cavity (between the power switch and the power plug connector. You can remove the fuse cap with a small flat screw diver.The small chamber containing the fuse should be coming slowly.
  • Check that you have at least 1 fuse at the bottom of the chamber.
  • Push back the fuse cap in position.
  • Now, plug the power cable to the main power grid, and switch the power button on.

 

 

 

 

If everything goes well, the switch button should lit and the LCD voltmeter should show the current voltage output. here 12.4V. This value may vary for you, but you will tune it on the following steps so that you get 12.0

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take a screw diver and slowly turn it in one way and on the other way in order to align the power output to 12V.

 

 

 

 

Here is a zoomed picture on the trim resistor.

 

 

 

Once properly set you should have a stable 12.0V displayed on the LCD

 

 

 

Connection of the 12V output wires (vidéo)

  • Switch off thepower supply
  • Remove the power plug.
  • Take the 4 90cm long wires.

2 Wires  must have some Blue or black terminals and 2 other with red terminals .

 

 

Insert them into the front cover so that the terminals are inside the cover .
Also insert the other side of the wires having the red terminals inside the round holes with the « + » marking.
Regarding the wires with the blue terminals (or black), inser them inside the holes with  «  » marking.

 

 

All the terminals are inside the plastic cover.

 

 

 

 

 

The blue wires here have the Red terminals and the brown wires have the blue (or black) terminals

 

 

 

 

 

  • Now, connect the wires with the Red termials to the power supply terminals with the « +V » marking. They are mainly the one located on the left of the power supply just next to the green led.
  • The blue terminals wires should be left.Connect them on the free terminals on the power supply that should be around the middle with the « -v » marking

 

Closing of the cover (vidéo)

  • Push the plastic covert so that the side holes are aligned with the ones on the power supply .
    On one side you will need 1 M4 screw.
    On the other side you will need 2 of them

 

 

 

Fix the screws on their dedicated located.

 

 

 

 

 

Prepare the last 2 M4 screws on the other side of the cover.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Congratulation, your power supply is ready to be used.