List of parts :
- 1 Silicone heater
- 1 aluminum plate
- 1 insulation sheet
- 1 cabled thermistor
- 1 pen
- 1 pair of scissors
- 1 hard card (something like creadit card)
- Polyamid tape
Take a mark so that when you stick the silicon heater to the aluminum plate it’s located at the center of it.
Stick the silicon heater in the center of your aluminum plate.
WIth your hard card apply the plolyamid tape so that it stick both the remaining exposed aluminum and the silicon heater.
Position the cable tie outside of the alimunum plate area.
Now place the insulation sheet over the whole assembly. The insulating sheet must have it’s side that looks like aluminum foil toward the silicon heater so that all the infra red heat is sent back to the aluminum plate.
Once located you need to remove the part of the insulation sheet the is covering the thermistor wire.
The insulation sheet is doing more than just keeping the heat on the aluminum side, it’s also used to compensate the height of the lead wires under the place so that the aluminum side of the heat bed will stay as flat as possible afterward.
Looking at the machine from the back, make sure that the silicon heater power cable is exiting on the right as on the picture.
You can fix the aluminum plate to the wooden plate using some of the 4 paper clips provided.
In principle the silicon heater cable going out on the side of the plate should look like the picture, the gap between the aluminum plate and the wooden plate should be very little. It’s possible that we provide you with a 2nd polystyren sheet that is thicker to compensate with this gap a little better.
The purpose here is to make sure that the cable doesn’t touche the smooth rod and is going just below the plastic support for the linear bearing (here in grey).
This will avoid any long term deterioration on the power cable.
Note The position of the belt tensioner, the clip is places on the opposite side side of the tensioner, the picture here show the back of the machine
In this position push up the plate and make sure that you have enough free orange wire and that he doesn’t hit the timing belt.
We might provide an extra clip to help you make sure it doesn’t hit the belt.
Connection of the heat bed to the static relay
List of parts :
- 4 paper clips
- 1 AC static relay
- 2 M4 compatible T-Nuts
- 2 M4x12mm screws
- (not provided) 1 screw diver
- (provided) 1 allen key
- plastic clips
Now screw the static relay and make sure to place the 2 terminals with the wave marking (with number 1 and 2) the closest to the chassis back. The terminals with the « + » and « – » markings (also with numbers 3 and 4) are to be placed toward the vertical aluminum extrusion.
Make sure you take the terminals with either red or blue colors.
Warning: Make sure to connect those terminals to the proper static relay terminals with the wave marking and labeled24 ~380VAC
This part should be labeled « SSRC »
The orange wire should be positioned as on the picture.