Frequently Asked Questions
Q: An axis do not move in the right direction
A: You need to reverse the plug of that motor on the electronic card
Q: The turbo fan is not working when turning the printer on
A: it is normal, this fan is used when printing to cool down the printed piece.
Q: How can I install the kapton easily ?
A: We recommand to use some glass cleaner, spread it on the bed, put the kapton, remove the bubble with a card (credit card style). Use a cloth to remove extra glass cleaner flowing on the side. You can also use the 200mm kapton easier to install as it covers more space at once.
Q: I have an error on the LCD: « Err: TEMP. MIN PLATE« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: The printer do not detect the temperature of the bed, you need to check the connectivty of the heatbed thermistor (white cable). Is it plugged at the right place ? The cable is not damaged ? You also can check the cable has 80-100 kohm (depending the temperature)
Q: Where can i get Cura profile for my Printer?
A: You can download them from here
Q: The Heatbed does not heat
A: Make sure the static relay (SSR) is connected to the electronic card on the 12v side and you plugged the 220V connector. When heating there is a red light on the Static relay.
Q: The piece do not stick on the bed
A: Have you used some hair spray or glue ?
If yes you probably need to review the steps to setup the Z offset and increase the value (keep it negative), the lines of the first layer needs to be glued to each other.
Q: The head goes into the bed before the print when getting the points on the bed
A: You need to check the inductive probe is working, There is a red light on it when approching metal like a screw driver. Then make sure it is connected to the proper pin on the electronic card.
Q: The head goes into the bed during the print and scratch it.
A: You need to review the steps to setup the Z offset and increase the value (keep it negative), the lines of the first layer needs to be glued to each other.
Q: How can I detach my print ?
A: There are many possibilities, but always easier when the plate is cold.
– you can use a filling palette to remove the piece, taking off each side but being careful not to damage the tape.
– You can help yourself with a hammer, and use the filling palette as a burin. Always at the base of the piece.
– If the piece is solid with light hammer blow on the piece at the toughest places.
– Sometimes pulling by hand is enough 🙂 Ok we could have started with this 😛
Q: I feel there is too much or not enough plastic going out of the hotend
A: Do you have the proper filament diameter in cura ? 1.75mmfor the filament of the same diameter.
About the 3mm it might be 2.85mm, sometimes it is written on the box, our PLA is 2.85 (AdWire) You have to put 2.85mm in cura.
Ensuit Then it is important to calibrate you extruder for each filament provider, it only takes few minutes and will improve the quality of your prints.
Q : During the prints, the round shapes are more oval shaped
A : This can be caused by different things. First you need to make sure that the base of your chassis is perfectly square. Then you need to make sure that the heat bed is parallel to the base of your chassis. Finally, make sure that the Z axis extrusion profiles are evenly spaced from the edge of your chassis on both right and left sides.
A : The timing delay created by one mechanical part can also be a cause for this issue. When using Helix screws, if you are using a standard coupler, it will generate a delay when turning and compressing itself. To avoid this, you need to use a rigid coupler, such as a claw coupler.
A : Make sure your belt is properly tighten. Also make sure that no plastic part has any breaks or any default that could generate an elastic effect on your axis.
A : After some time, your belt may require to be changed. The belts using reinforced glass fibers are properly fit for this kind of application. Using reinforced steel belts might be too stiff for this kind of application.
Q : the lead screws of my Z axis are oscillating at the top. Is it a normal behaviour?
A : The lead screws are never perfectly straight. More over, when inserting them inside couplers, you may slightly move them from their central axis, creating or increasing the oscillation on the other end of the screw. Make sure to always let them move freely. Otherwise you will create Z Wobble on your prints.
Q : I have Wobble on my printed part (some waves on the sides of my part), how to fix it?
A : This is a purely mechanical issue. The origin of this issue can be various and tricky to find. The wave effect is due to the Z axis not moving smoothly. There is a delay when the Z axis is changing direction. There is no clear answer for this as it depends how you assembled your printer.
The main tip for this is to to look carefully how each part is moving (the coupler, the nozzle, the carriage, the jaws, etc…) Focus your attention for a moment on each of these points and you should figure out the part causing it.
There is an error on the LCD
Q: I have an error on the LCD: « Err: MAX TEMP« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: This is a security. The head went too hot and has reached the maximum temperature accepted by the configuration. You need to restart the printer to start a new print. You might need to decrease the temperature of the head for this print.
Q : I have an error on the LCD: « Err: Thermal Runaway« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: This is a security. The printer tries to keep the head at the temperature specified but the temperature is not stable. check there is no air flow. Check the % of fan for the turbo fan in cura (or other slicer), maybe to high too soon. You need to restart the printer to start a new print.
A broken part ?
Q: How can I prevent beeing stuck with a broken part ?
A: It is recommanded to print all parts of the printer and store them in case it breaks. (not needed for some parts like the electronic box)
Q: How to update the firmware ?
A: Follow the guide