Archives de catégorie : Upgrades


Jaws assembly V3

 X/Z strong jaw assembly

Strong jaw assembly

Montage des machoires

Motor side :

Montage des machoiresList of parts:

  • 1 « Back Slider » (Plastic part)
  • 1 « Slider motor holder » (Plastic part)
  • 16 bearings (625)
  • 32 washers M5
  • 8 spacers (yellow on the pictuer)
  • 8 low Hex nut M5
  • 8 M5x35mm screws



Bearings assembly

  • 2 625 bearings
  • 4 Washers M5
  • 1 spacers (orange)



This assembly is given without screw so that you can see how it is assembled.

These bearings assembly are then installed in the middle of the plastic parts.






You will need a couple of bearings assembly for each jaws side

The jaws are fit over the extrusion profile.






Bearing installation on the jaws

  • 1 « Slider motor holder » (plastic part)
  • 2 sets of bearings
  • 2 M5x35 screws
  • 2 low profiles M5 nuts



Front view, where you can see where the bearings are aligned inside the plastic part.





The M5x35mm screws and the low profile nuts helps to hold everything together.





Note the location of the screw on the left and the nut on the right side.



On the right side there are dedicated Hex nuts imprints.






You can glue the nuts in place and then install the screw if it’s easier for you. In the end, when the screw is properly tighten, you can use some glue or some varnish to prevent the screws from getting out.







Lead screw Nut holder

This plastic part is the holder for the Lead screw nut.

It also has dedicated screw hole location for some sets of bearings.

Caution here, do not tighten the screw on the next steps. Both parts are designed in order to have gap left over (0.5mm) between both parts. This will allows you later on to adjust how close the Jaws are to the extrusion profiles. If you tighten the screws here you won’t be able to install the part afterward!

Just start screwing inside the low profile nut, don’t tighten!

After you have installed the jaws around the Z axis extrusion profiles, you can tighten them so that the axis won’t shake.

PDF 3D: Motor jaws

Ilder Jaw

Montage des machoires

The assembly here is similar to the previous one. The only part that changes is the « Slider Idler » that will support the X axis Idler pulley.

List of parts:

  • 1 « Slider back » (Plastic part)
  • 1 « Slider Idler » (Plastic part)
  • 16 Bearings (625)
  • 32 Washers M5
  • 8 spacers (orange)
  • 8 low profiles hex nut M5
  • 8 M5x35mm screws

machoires de porfile

Here is the part that changes from the previous assembly

This is our starting point

Assembly of the sides

Caution here, do not tighten the screw on the next steps. Both parts are designed in order to have gap left over (0.5mm) between both parts. This will allows you later on to adjust how close the Jaws are to the extrusion profiles. If you tighten the screws here you won’t be able to install the part afterward!

Just start screwing inside the low profile nut, don’t tighten!

After you have installed the jaws around the Z axis extrusion profiles, you can tighten them so that the axis won’t shake.


You will find here PDF3D with more details inside.

PDF 3D: Idler Jaw



Scalar Upgrade – Dual Y motors

This page describes the different steps required to install the Dual Y stepper motor upgrade (available here)

This upgrade is compatible with Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium 3d printers.

The purpose of this upgrade

This upgrade intends to add a 2nd stepper motor on the existing Y Axis.

It allows to have 1 stepper motor at the front and at the back of the print surface.

Both motors are turning on the same direction

More over they are electrically links together on the same stepper driver.

This allows them to be perfectly in sync.

Both stepper motors are driving the belts in both directions.

The print surface is always perfectly pulled on both directions.

Upgrade installation

upgrade Dual Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

Stepper motor wires installation

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

Electric wiring

Upgrade DUAL Y

The electric wiring is performed over the existing installation

You need to :

  1. Disconnect the existing Y axis stepper motor wire. Make sure to note down the location of each wire color.
  2. Install the Y shaped splitter cable on the Y axis stepper motor output. A good idea is to install the wire so that the red wire is pointing in the same direction as the previous motor wire.
  3. Connect the original Y axis motor wire on one of the 2 male connectors on the Y  splitter cable.
  4. Connect the new stepper motor wire on the remaining 4 pins connector.
  5. Using your LCD screen, move your Y axis and check that both motors are turning the same way. If not, just invert the newly installed motor cable and check again.
  6. Now both steppers should run on the same direction. Check that when moving in positive direction the Y axis is going away from the Y axis end stop. If not you will need to invert the Y slipper cable on the ramps side.
  7. The setup is finished.


Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

This page is dedicated into the setup of the « Upgrade Z Trap » kit of your Scalar S 3D printer using Trap Lead Screws

The whole procedure is to be done at the back of the machine

The Kit  contains

  • 2 Trap lead screws
  • 2 Steel Trap Nut
  • 2 plastic parts

Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap


Unmounting the old system

We unlock the Z axis couplers from the leadscrew


Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap

Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

Remove the M8 lead screws

Remove the previous plastic part that holds the Z nut

This part has a small hole at the back in order to insert the small nut.

Installation of the upgraded parts

Replace the previous plastic parts using the new set. Notice that the center hole is larger than the previous version to properly fit the new Trap Nut

Insert the new Hex Nut into the dedicated Grooves

Insert the new Trap Screws

Tighten the Z Coupler

The setup is finished

Firmware / LCD changes to be done

In order for the firmware to take into account the pitch of your new set of lead screws, you will need to update 1 parameter inside your firmware

If you have a LCD screen

Go into the LCD menu: Control>Motion>ZStep/mm

  • Replace the previous value 2560 with 2133.3
  • Save your new settings by going into the menu  Control>Save Config

Things to take into consideration

Has you have changed the pitch of the screw of your Z axis, make sure your slicer is using a compatible Layer Height

Check the following article to get more information :

What is the best “layer height” for your printer

Re-Arm – 32Bits Upgrade for Scalar 3D printer


Re-Arm board description

Re-Arm board, allows to boost the performances of your 3D printer

She has

  • An ARM LPC1768 32bits controller running at 100Mhz
  • 512KB Flash
  • Directly compatible with Ramps 1.4 board
  • Has 5V power outputs.
  • Supports RRD GLCD Graphical displays
  • Supports Ethernet modules
  • Supports stepper drivers able to run at 1/128 micro-steps (SD6128 for example)
  • Running with Smoothieware firmware (A Marlin port is currently in progress).

It’s an ideal candidate to boost/upgrade your 3D printers based on Arduino Mega 2560 + Ramps 1.4 shield.

Here is a zoom over the expansion pins


Board installation

The procedure is very simple. Just remove your Arduino Mega from the Ramps board and replace it with the Re-Arm board. It’s pin to pin compatible.

Overall wiring schematic

In the current configuration, Smoothieware firmware is only compatible with RRD GLCD graphic display.

+5V Wiring

Here is an important point to take into account when upgrading your system

  • Remove the potential jumper located just next to the green power supply connector

With and Arduino board, this jumper allows to provide +5V to the servo motors dedicated pins.

If you keep the jumper into place, Re-Arm board will only provide +3.3V to the servos, which is too low.

  • Use the 20cm Female-Female wire provided, in order to link the +5V output  of the Re-Arm (here on the left) , to the middle pin located on the bloc of 3 pins, between the reset button and the green power connector (here on the right)

Graphical display wiring

The left side shows how to wire the graphical display with the adaptor board.

  • Important! Take a lot of caution on the location of the connectors key visible on the picture . Some displays may have these soldered the wrong way!
  • Important! Here again you need to connect the +5V of the Re-Arm Board to the +5V input if the display.The +5V wire is the small stand alone wire. It needs to be connected as shown on the pictures

BLTouch Wiring

Here The wiring is identical to any previous wiring.

Runout sensor wiring



Firmware installation

  • Download the file that seems more appropriate to your machine / setup
  • Unzip the .Zip file. You should find 2 files: Firmware.bin et config.txt
  • These 2 files have to be copied/paste on the Micro SD card. You then need to insert it inside your Re-Arm board.
  • Boot up the board.
    • When the firmware is updating, the board will take a few seconds in order to boot. If the Graphical display is connected, it will beep untill the firmware has been updated. Do not shut down the board while updating! (it takes about 10 seconds to complete)
    • Once the firmware is installed / updated, the display show show something on the screen.

Cura configruation

With Smoothieware firmware, the startup gcode will slightly change.


Here is what you should have in your « Start.gcode »

;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Un comment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Un comment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X Y ; Home X and Y

;Deployment of the BLTouch (Optional if you don’t have any)

M280 S3.0 ; Deploy BLT probe pin

;Positioning the hotend over the middle of the build platform
; Here you need to adjust the values in orange to locate the center of the bed based on your machine size.
; G31 allows to provide a specific zone for probing. You need to change the values in pink so that the probing location always stays inside the build platform
;You can use Gcode Toolbox In order to optimize the values in pink

G1 X200 Y150 F6000 ; Go to center of bed
G31 X20 Y35 A400 B260 ; Probe the bed and turn on compensation
G1 X200 Y150 F6000 ; Go to center of bed

; G30, followed by Zxxxx is your ZOffset.
;In order to find your ZOffset, with a BLTouch, deploy the probe, lower down your hotend until the BLTouch LED is lit. Write down the current Z location. Now move down untill the Nozzles is reaching the bed surface. Write down again the current Z location. Make the difference and you have your ZOffset

G30 Z1.4 ; Z Probe Offset
M280 S7.0 ; Retract probe pin

; This part was modified in order to start the print with enough pressure inside the hotend.

G1 X20 Y20
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E30 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen


Here nothing to change.


Scalar S – Dual drive system bed upgrade

Dual drive system upgradeThis page describes the installation of the Dual drive system bed upgrade for Scalar S 3D printer.

It postulates that you have the standard version of the Scalar S, and that you are upgrading your Y Axis.

This upgrade is a mechanical upgrade only.

It doesn’t require any firmware updates.



Bed disassembly

scalar S, upgrade plateau à double entraînement

Removing belts

In order to continue, it’s best that you remove the belt already installed.

Keep it close as you will need it very soon.

Y axis positioning

Rail assembly

Check the procedure here

Installation of the new axis

2 sides synchronization

Remove the black screw already in place.

Keep it safe for future use.

Take great care to the pulleys directions

Do not tighten the pulleys

Tighten the stabilization screws

These screws are here to stabilize the extrusion profile, to prevent it from rotating.

Back view of the printer, we install the M5x35 black screws that we kept from earlier.

New lower plate installation

Heat plate installation

Belts installation

Follow this procedure

Bed alignment

This step allows to make sure that your bed is properly aligned to your chassis

This step takes into account that your pulleys are not tighten on their shafts. They must remain loose until the end of this alignment procedure.

Once you have checked that one side is aligned, you can tighten the red extrusion holders on the chassis on one side only.

Here we are tightening the right side. It will allow us to align the other side more easily


Slide the bed toward the back of the printer. The left axis should align itself once the bed has reach the end stop.

Hold the plastic support and tighten it on the chassis.

Now, slide again the bed toward the front of the machine this time. Once at the end, hold the plastic holder and tighten it on the chassis.


You can check that the bed is centered using the hotend. It should be able to move over the whole heatbed surface. You can adjust the position of the X end stop in order to fix potential centering issues.

Your heatbed should move freely back and forth with no issues linked to parallelism.

Also your bed should be properly aligned to your chassis now. You can check that by moving the bed edge to the front of your chassis. Using a ruler, you should see that the bed is parallel to the front of the chassis on both sides (right and left).

Tightening the Pulleys

Now that your bed is properly aligned and centered you can tigthen the 4 pulleys  and you are done!

Heatbed upgrade – extrusion profiles supports

heatbed holder

Notice about GT2 pulleys

The gt 2 pulleys on the pictures here are show only as an information. You will install them later on.


List of parts:

  • 3 extrusion profiles supports (plastic part)
  • 1 extrusion support with end stop (pièce plastique)
  • 8 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 8 x  M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 TNuts
  • 4 GT2 16 teeth pulleys
  • 1 cable tie

Assembly process

Take the plastic part

Use 2x625ZZ bearings

These 2 bearings will be inserted inside specific grooves of the plastic part.

How to place the later GT2 pulleys

The GT 2 pulley will then come between the 2 bearings.

Special note:

In order to align later on the belt, the pulley will need to be laid against 1 of the bearings. In order to keep the symetric aspect of this part, you will get a small void between the other side of the pulley and the other bearing.


The location of the pulley will be explained later on

Repeat the same logic on the 2 other parts. You should get 3 identical parts.

End stop holder.

The procedure is the same here

The only difference is the special location where you need to install the end stop

Note however the location of the en stop wheel pointing up.


Warning, this end stop holder has been updated starting Avril 2017

Here is the new version

In order to keep track of previous parts,  here is the old version.(before Avril 2017)

Once assembled

Again the pulleys cann be held right now and are shown only for further comprehension

Preparing the nuts and screws

The final phase here is to prepare all the M6X12mm screws and their Tnuts that we will use later on.

You will need :

  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 Tnuts

The side holes on the plastic parts are used to install these screws and Tnuts


PS_ON kit assembly

PS_ON kit wiring diagram

PS_ON kit wiring diagram

Working principle

This kit allows to electrically switch off your 3D printer when your print are finished

In order to achieve this, a power câble is being instrumented, and a static relay provide enough control for the 3D printer controler to allow this feature to work.

STL of the enclosure

The PS_ON enclosure box is available for download on thingiverse

Wiring in few steps

diagramme kit PS_ON
diagramme kit PS_ON

Detailed steps for wiring in pictures


Modular switch

Power supply coord preparation

Power coord connection to static relay

Soldering of brown and yellow/green wires

After soldering the pairs of electric wires, make sure that the thrincable tubing is placed over the soldering location. Also make sure to thrink the tube using a matches, lighter…

Securing power cables

Signal cable wiring

In certain kits, this wire might already be wired to the static relay unit.

In the other case make sure to cut the 2 pins connector from the cable and to keep the part with the 3 pins connector.

Securing the signal wire inside the enclosure

Closing the enclosure


Connection on 3D printer Controler board(Ramps 1.4)

 PS_ON module only:

The 2 arrows shows where to connect the wires from the PS_ON Module

  • The black wire is to be connected at the bottom of the schematic
  • The red wire is to be connected at the top of the schematic

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

PS_ON Module + BLTouch:

  • The module has 1 black connector with 3 pins
  • Only 2 pins are connected to this black connector
  • You need to remove the metallic connector
  • You might need a thin blade in order to lift the strips and pull the wire to remove it from the black housing.

Use the provided 2×1 Pin housing

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

  • Insert the metallic connector inside. You should hear a « click » sound once properly in place
  • You should have this

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

You will need to add the jumper where shown on the schematic below.

The black and red wire location is also shown on the schematic

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

Gcode changes in your slicer (CURA)

PS_ON et Cura

Dual extrusion kit for Scalar 3D printer

Upgrade kit for dual extrusion for Scalar 3D printer

Inside the kit

This dual extrusion kit compatible is compatible Scalar S / M / L / XL and XL Premium 3d printer having E3D Lite hotends

Kit content for dual extrusion on Scalar 3D printers

Y convector assembly

Kit for Dual extrusion on Scalar 3D printers

Y For Dual Extrusion

Y For Dual Extrusion

Installation of the dual extrusion kit over E3D lite hot end

Dual extrusion kit for Scalar 3D printer

Extruder support assembly

location of the extruder on the extrusion profile for DUal extrusion system

Firmware configuration

This tutorial shows how to edit Marlin RC8 firmware .

The procedure is similar for Marlin firmware RC8 and higher

Configuration pour Cura 15.XX

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion systemCura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Scalar L/XL/XL Premium

Paramètres cura pour double extrusion Scalar

M92 X100
M92 Y100
M92 Z2133.33

Scalar S

M92 X100
M92 Y100
M92 Z2560

Assemblage du support de bobine en aluminium

Support bobine aluminiumCette page présent l’assemblage du support de bobine en aluminium pour la gamme d’imprimante 3D Scalar.

Ce support de bobine est modulaire et permet de maintenir efficacement vos bobines en place.

Le profilé en aluminium permet également aux bobines de se dérouler correctement avec très peu de frictions.

Vous pouvez également modifier la position des éléments à votre guise afin que ce support puisse convenir à votre application.

liste des piècesListe des pièces:

  • 8 écrous marteau
  • 8 vis M6x12
  • 2 équerres grandes équerres
  • 1 équerre petite équerre
  • 2 profilé aluminium 200mm de long




Assemblage du support de bobine

profilé aluminium 200mm de longPour ce montage vous aurez besoin de profilés aluminium de 200mm de long





profilé aluminium 200mm de longPréparez les vis et écrous

assemblage des profilés

assemblage des profilés

installation de la première équerre de fixation

support de bobine en aluminiumNotez l’orientation de cette équerre qui permettra plus tard à votre bobine d’être guidé sans s’accrocher sur les parois de vos bobines.

support de bobine en aluminiumPDF 3D : Support de bobine

Installation sur le châssis

Installation sur le châssis

Installation sur le châssisPensez à serrer vos vis de fixation afin que le support puisse tenir correctement sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssisAstuce:

Il vous faudra retirer puis remettre l’équerre afin de changer votre bobine.Installation sur le châssisPDF 3D : Support de bobine Installé sur le châssis