Archives de catégorie : Upgrades

Upgrade double extrusion E3D chimera

Dual Extrusion upgrade – E3D Chimera

Upgrade Double Extrusion E3D Chimera

The kit contains:

  • 1 motor kit+ extruder + stepper motor driver
  • 2 meters of PTFE tubing
  • 1 screw set
  • 1 E3D Chimera kit
  • 1 fan extender board

E3D Chimera installation guide

You will find the installation guide on the E3D official website

Necessary plastic parts

You will find the needed plastic parts on thingiverse. they are compatible with Scalar 3D printers. You will need the following parts:

Hot end installation

You need 3 M3x8 screws in order to attach the hot end heat-sink on the plastic holder Use the screws from the back of the plastic part to hold the hot end in place. 1 M3x20 thermoplastic screw in to be installed on the hole behind the inductive probe support Install you inductive probes Finally, using 3 M3x10 screws, attach everything on the  X carriage starting from the 2nd hole from the top
E3D Chimera Dual extrusion upgrade

Extruders motors installation on the chassis

double extrusion E3D chimera, installation des moteurs d'extrusion
Extrusion motors are to be installed on the top of your chassis You can attache them on the spool holders extrusions as follow.
The 2 pneumatic connectors are to be installed at the output of the extruders. They will hold the ptfe tubing later on. In the kit you should have 2 extrusion gears. Make sure to install them both, 1 on each extruder. the goal here is to have the same extrusion gear on each extruder to make things easier later on. You will need to calibrate your Control>Motion>Estep/mm after you update your firmware.

PTFE tubing installation

You can now install the ptfe Tubing between the hot end and the different extruders. Important note: the left heating block corresponds to the extruder E0, and the right side heating block corresponds to the extruder E1 You need to cut the tube to length so that they are as short as possible and still guaranty smooth motion all over the print volume. A good tip would be to make sure that the hot end nozzle is as low as possible (near touching the bed) before cutting the tube, in order to have an optimal tube length.

Nozzle alignment

You can now align your 2 nozzles:
  • Make sure that your X axis is as parallel to your heat bed as possible
  • Lower the hot end until 1 nozzle is touching the bed
  • Using the 2 small screws on the side of the heat-sink, you can adjust the 2nd nozzle to that it also touches the bed.

Electronic wiring

Here is the wiring diagram of the E3D Chimera dual extrusion upgrade
Dual extrusion E3D Chimera Wiring diagram

Extruder 2 (E1) installation

You first need to install the driver for your new extruder motor on the remaining driver slot. Warning! Carefully note the driver orientation, the location of the small heat-sink and the small round potentiometer. They must be on the same orientation as the other drivers

Stepper motor driver calibration

You will now calibrate the stepper motor driver using a Ceramic screws driver (provided with Scalar L/ XLP)

Reminder on the Ceramic screw driver

This screw driver is electrically insulated. It’s used to adjust potentiometers when powered If you are using a standard non insulated screw driver you may damage your stepper driver.
tourne vis céramique
For the calibration purpose you will also need a multi-meter with the  2V DC caliber selected  (or similar).
  • Place the multi-meter black probe on the  USB connector metallic shielding of the arduino board (blue) located below the Ramps board (red).
  • Place the red probe over the small round potentiometer located next to the heat sink
  • Measure the voltage, you want 0.850mV
  • Using the ceramic screw driver, turn the potentiometer clockwise to increase the voltage.
  • Turn counter clockwise to decrease the voltage.

Fan extender board installation

RRD fan extender
This board is used to replace the power transistor that you re-used for your second hot end heater cartridge. You will need it to power your PLA cooling fan. Install it over the « servo » extension pins on the ramps 1.4 board (same for MKS gen boards)
This board need an external power supply in order to work. You need to unplug the E3D 30mm cooling fan from the « Y » shape splitter cable. Connect another « Y » splitter cable to it and plug back the 30mm fan to one of the available end. On the remaining end, connect the 20cm Female-Female extender cable. The other end of the cable is to be connected to the 12V input of the fan extender board (here on the left) Warning! take precautions with the polarities! Now connect the PLA cooling blower fan on the D11 location on the fan extender board.

Firmware upgrade

You need to upgrade your firmware in order to take into account your 2nd extruder. The upgrade procedure is located here The compatible firmware are labeled « Dual extrusion Chimera » If you 3D printer version / model is not listed, please make sure to contact us so that we can provide it.

Precautions after upgrading your firmware

  • Check that all your stepper motors are still turning in the proper direction. If not, just flip the motor connector on the electronic board side.
  • You will need to move the location or your existing X axis end stop. Push the hot end left until the right nozzle is located on the edge of the left side of the bed.  The left nozzle must get outside of the bed area. Now push the end stop against the X carriage and you are set.
  • You will also need to adjust ZOffset before printing. The probe tip must be around 1-2mm above the nozzle tip.
MKS TFT 28 update screen

MKS TFT 2.8 firmware updates

This page contains the list of updates for your MKS TFT 2.8″ displays

List of firmwares

Update process

  1. Unzip the files in the base folder of a SD card
  2. The file structure at the root of the sd card should look like this:
  3. Structure de fichier pour la mise à jours de l'écran MKS TFT 2.8
  4. Insert the sd card on your display and boot it. If it’s already on, you will need to reboot it in order for the update to start.
  5. The update process should take a few minutes.
  6. Once finish the screen will reboot and will be ready to use.

LCD screen customization

You can customize a lot of thing on your display. everything is inside file mks_config.txt.

Depending on the versions you should have different or new parameters based on functionalities.

The UPS, WiFi module, DET module are handled in this config file.

Once the configuration file edited, just copy/past the file on the root folder of your SD card and reboot your display.

Upgrade CR-10 double Z

[CR-10] Dual Z Upgrade for CR-10

This page shows how to install the Dual Z Upgrade kit for CR-10 sold by 3D modular Systems.

This kit allows to install a 2nd Z axis stepper motor on your Creality CR-10 3D printer.

It will give you better print quality, and will increase Z motion precision.

THis upgrade is very important if you plan to use some auto bed leveling sensor such as  BLTouch

Kit content

Dual Z Upgrade for CR-10

  • 1 motor kit
  • 1 screw kit
  • 1 lead-screw + nut
  • 1 motor splitter cable
  • 1 plastic kit

Step 1 – Un-mounting

The main idea is to install the copper nut for the lead screw. For this you need to un-mount the right side of the X axis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

This is the part with the belt tensioner

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Using the hex key provided with the printer kit, totally un-mount the right side of the wheel system.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the 2 screws that are holding the x axis extrusion profile.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step 2 – Installing the upgrade

You should have this part after un-mounting the axis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the black screws provided inside the upgrade kit and install the Eccentric nut

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Place back the eccentric nut inside the dedicated hole on the metal plate. Place the nut’s round part inside the metallic groove.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

insert the wheel

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the upgrade’s kit spacer

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Important! Make sure to use the spacer provided with the upgrade kit! Don’t use the one from the existing axis as both spacers don’t have the same height!

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Take the plastic part with the copper nut and a nylstop

Place the wheel on the screw and then a spacer before assembling both parts

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Just insert slightly the nylstop. Keep the nylstop loose!

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install both parts on the chassis. Also note that the nylstop here is still loose.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

On the other side, install 1 other screw from the upgrade kit.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

From left to right, install the following parts:

  • 1 spacer from the original kit (CR-10)
  • 1 wheel
  • 1 spacer from the upgrade kit (10mm)

Upgrade double Z CR-10

do the same for the bottom.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install 2 nylstops, and then tighten them using flat pliers.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

In order to adjust the eccentric nut, you will need a size 10 flat key, or flat pliers if you don’t have this kind of keys.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Turn the key in 1 direction or another in order to adjust the location of the wheel.

The wheel must be in contact with the Z axis extrusion groove.

Once properly set the Z axis must slide up and down freely with very little play.

Once in place tighten the nylstop nut.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Seen from the front, the 2 Tnuts must be accessible.

We will now connect the X Axis extrusion

Upgrade double Z CR-10

From the back, turn the nuts so that they fit inside the extrusion.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

On the other side, Insert the hex key inside the dedicated hole to access the screw head.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step3 – Stepper motor installation

Mount the stepper motor at the base of the chassis.

Make sure that it’s perfectly aligned with the Nut and is laying perfectly flat on the base of the chassis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Screw the motor on the vertical double extrusion profile.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Take the blue coupler

Note that the coupler has 2 holes with different diameters.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Also note that the motor shaft has some flat area.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Align the coupler screws with the motor’s shaf’s flat area

The small diameter of the coupler is to be used on the motor shaft.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the leadscrew now.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Insert it from the top and let it spin freely to the bottom

You can use some lubricant if needed. (fine oils for screwing machines)

Upgrade double Z CR-10

The lead-screw must go down strait into the coupler.

Tighten the coupler screws

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install the top Z axis idler

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step4 – Z axis alignment

Use some flat object (here some kapton tape).

Place it on one side, and move down the axis until the bottom part of the x axis is touching the object.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Do the same on the other side.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step 5 – Electronic wiring

Connect the stepper motor cable.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

You are going to put your hands inside the electronic box. Make sure to disconnect the electronic box from your  power plug!

At the bottom of the electronic box you will find 5 screws to remove.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use a hex key to remove them.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

In order to remove the Power supply, you need to remove the 4 screws on the side of the electronic box.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the power supply from the top.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

At the top, near the LCD, you will find the main board.

Locate the Z axis cable

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the Z axis wire and replace it with the splitter cable

Make sure to place the red wire facing top.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Connect the Z axis cable to 1 end of the splitter cable.

Take the splitter so that the red wires are facing down.

On the Z axis cable you should see some clips on 1 side.

These must be facing you

Upgrade double Z CR-10

At the back of the electronic box, you have 2 metallic connectors and 1 wires output

Insert the stepper motor black connector inside this last hole.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Once inside the cable must follow the other cables

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Connect it with the last end of the splitter wire

The red wire from the stepper motor must be connected with the red wire of the splitter wire

Upgrade double Z CR-10

You can use some tape in order to make sure the 4 wires are held together

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use some cable tie to make sure the internal cables are properly held on the box.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step6 – Stepper motor calibration

Using the ceramic screw driver provided with the upgrade kit, you need to adjust the stepper driver current for both Z axis motor to be working.

tourne vis céramique

The best practice is to use a voltmeter

If you have a voltmeter, use the caliber closest to 2V DC .

Place the « + » probe directly on the metallic cap of the driver potentiometer.

Place the probe « – » directly on the GND terminal of the power supply where the big black cable is located at the bottom.

Warning! The next step requires the electronic box to be powered on!

Make sure to use the ceramic screw driver as it’s insulated. any other screw driver may damage the driver.

Power on the electronic box, measure the voltage as explained above.

Using the ceramic screw driver, turn clockwise so that the voltage is reaching about « 1Vdc »

Using the LCD screen, lift up and down the z axis (prepare>Move axis >Z)

If the Z axis is moving freely then you are done. If not you may need to slightly increase the voltage.

If you don’t have any voltmeters, using the LCD screen, lift up and down the Z axis.

Turn clockwise until both stepper motors are able to properly lift the Z axis

Once finished you can power down the electronic box, unplug the power coord, and screw the electronic box back to normal.

You are done!

Z axis Alu upgrade – back aluminium sliders installation

Aluminium Z axis upgrade for Scalar L / XL Premium

Left side assembly (X axis motor side)

machoire aluminium pour imprimante 3D Scalar


Right side assembly

Setup your Firmware parameters

The TR10x2 trapezoïdale leadscrews requires new ZStep/mm settings on your firmware

Through your LCD display,go to Control>movements>Zstep/mm>1600

Trap lead screws requirements

Make sure to lubricate the leadscrews as well as your Igus nuts using PTFE lubricant, grease, or even Fine oil for small mecanism

Jaws assembly V3

 X/Z strong jaw assembly

Strong jaw assembly

Montage des machoires

Motor side :

Montage des machoiresList of parts:

  • 1 « Back Slider » (Plastic part)
  • 1 « Slider motor holder » (Plastic part)
  • 16 bearings (625)
  • 32 washers M5
  • 8 spacers (yellow on the pictuer)
  • 8 low Hex nut M5
  • 8 M5x35mm screws



Bearings assembly

  • 2 625 bearings
  • 4 Washers M5
  • 1 spacers (orange)



This assembly is given without screw so that you can see how it is assembled.

These bearings assembly are then installed in the middle of the plastic parts.






You will need a couple of bearings assembly for each jaws side

The jaws are fit over the extrusion profile.






Bearing installation on the jaws

  • 1 « Slider motor holder » (plastic part)
  • 2 sets of bearings
  • 2 M5x35 screws
  • 2 low profiles M5 nuts



Front view, where you can see where the bearings are aligned inside the plastic part.





The M5x35mm screws and the low profile nuts helps to hold everything together.





Note the location of the screw on the left and the nut on the right side.



On the right side there are dedicated Hex nuts imprints.






You can glue the nuts in place and then install the screw if it’s easier for you. In the end, when the screw is properly tighten, you can use some glue or some varnish to prevent the screws from getting out.







Lead screw Nut holder

This plastic part is the holder for the Lead screw nut.

It also has dedicated screw hole location for some sets of bearings.

Caution here, do not tighten the screw on the next steps. Both parts are designed in order to have gap left over (0.5mm) between both parts. This will allows you later on to adjust how close the Jaws are to the extrusion profiles. If you tighten the screws here you won’t be able to install the part afterward!

Just start screwing inside the low profile nut, don’t tighten!

After you have installed the jaws around the Z axis extrusion profiles, you can tighten them so that the axis won’t shake.

PDF 3D: Motor jaws

Ilder Jaw

Montage des machoires

The assembly here is similar to the previous one. The only part that changes is the « Slider Idler » that will support the X axis Idler pulley.

List of parts:

  • 1 « Slider back » (Plastic part)
  • 1 « Slider Idler » (Plastic part)
  • 16 Bearings (625)
  • 32 Washers M5
  • 8 spacers (orange)
  • 8 low profiles hex nut M5
  • 8 M5x35mm screws

machoires de porfile

Here is the part that changes from the previous assembly

This is our starting point

Assembly of the sides

Caution here, do not tighten the screw on the next steps. Both parts are designed in order to have gap left over (0.5mm) between both parts. This will allows you later on to adjust how close the Jaws are to the extrusion profiles. If you tighten the screws here you won’t be able to install the part afterward!

Just start screwing inside the low profile nut, don’t tighten!

After you have installed the jaws around the Z axis extrusion profiles, you can tighten them so that the axis won’t shake.


You will find here PDF3D with more details inside.

PDF 3D: Idler Jaw



Scalar Upgrade – Dual Y motors

This page describes the different steps required to install the Dual Y stepper motor upgrade (available here)

This upgrade is compatible with Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium 3d printers.

The purpose of this upgrade

This upgrade intends to add a 2nd stepper motor on the existing Y Axis.

It allows to have 1 stepper motor at the front and at the back of the print surface.

Both motors are turning on the same direction

More over they are electrically links together on the same stepper driver.

This allows them to be perfectly in sync.

Both stepper motors are driving the belts in both directions.

The print surface is always perfectly pulled on both directions.

Upgrade installation

upgrade Dual Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

Stepper motor wires installation

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

Electric wiring

Upgrade DUAL Y

The electric wiring is performed over the existing installation

You need to :

  1. Disconnect the existing Y axis stepper motor wire. Make sure to note down the location of each wire color.
  2. Install the Y shaped splitter cable on the Y axis stepper motor output. A good idea is to install the wire so that the red wire is pointing in the same direction as the previous motor wire.
  3. Connect the original Y axis motor wire on one of the 2 male connectors on the Y  splitter cable.
  4. Connect the new stepper motor wire on the remaining 4 pins connector.
  5. Using your LCD screen, move your Y axis and check that both motors are turning the same way. If not, just invert the newly installed motor cable and check again.
  6. Now both steppers should run on the same direction. Check that when moving in positive direction the Y axis is going away from the Y axis end stop. If not you will need to invert the Y slipper cable on the ramps side.
  7. The setup is finished.


Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

This page is dedicated into the setup of the « Upgrade Z Trap » kit of your Scalar S 3D printer using Trap Lead Screws

The whole procedure is to be done at the back of the machine

The Kit  contains

  • 2 Trap lead screws
  • 2 Steel Trap Nut
  • 2 plastic parts

Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap


Unmounting the old system

We unlock the Z axis couplers from the leadscrew


Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap

Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

Remove the M8 lead screws

Remove the previous plastic part that holds the Z nut

This part has a small hole at the back in order to insert the small nut.

Installation of the upgraded parts

Replace the previous plastic parts using the new set. Notice that the center hole is larger than the previous version to properly fit the new Trap Nut

Insert the new Hex Nut into the dedicated Grooves

Insert the new Trap Screws

Tighten the Z Coupler

The setup is finished

Firmware / LCD changes to be done

In order for the firmware to take into account the pitch of your new set of lead screws, you will need to update 1 parameter inside your firmware

If you have a LCD screen

Go into the LCD menu: Control>Motion>ZStep/mm

  • Replace the previous value 2560 with 2133.3
  • Save your new settings by going into the menu  Control>Save Config

Things to take into consideration

Has you have changed the pitch of the screw of your Z axis, make sure your slicer is using a compatible Layer Height

Check the following article to get more information :

What is the best “layer height” for your printer

Re-Arm – 32Bits Upgrade for Scalar 3D printer


Re-Arm board description

Re-Arm board, allows to boost the performances of your 3D printer

She has

  • An ARM LPC1768 32bits controller running at 100Mhz
  • 512KB Flash
  • Directly compatible with Ramps 1.4 board
  • Has 5V power outputs.
  • Supports RRD GLCD Graphical displays
  • Supports Ethernet modules
  • Supports stepper drivers able to run at 1/128 micro-steps (SD6128 for example)
  • Running with Smoothieware firmware (A Marlin port is currently in progress).

It’s an ideal candidate to boost/upgrade your 3D printers based on Arduino Mega 2560 + Ramps 1.4 shield.

Here is a zoom over the expansion pins


Board installation

The procedure is very simple. Just remove your Arduino Mega from the Ramps board and replace it with the Re-Arm board. It’s pin to pin compatible.

Overall wiring schematic

In the current configuration, Smoothieware firmware is only compatible with RRD GLCD graphic display.

+5V Wiring

Here is an important point to take into account when upgrading your system

  • Remove the potential jumper located just next to the green power supply connector

With and Arduino board, this jumper allows to provide +5V to the servo motors dedicated pins.

If you keep the jumper into place, Re-Arm board will only provide +3.3V to the servos, which is too low.

  • Use the 20cm Female-Female wire provided, in order to link the +5V output  of the Re-Arm (here on the left) , to the middle pin located on the bloc of 3 pins, between the reset button and the green power connector (here on the right)

Graphical display wiring

The left side shows how to wire the graphical display with the adaptor board.

  • Important! Take a lot of caution on the location of the connectors key visible on the picture . Some displays may have these soldered the wrong way!
  • Important! Here again you need to connect the +5V of the Re-Arm Board to the +5V input if the display.The +5V wire is the small stand alone wire. It needs to be connected as shown on the pictures

BLTouch Wiring

Here The wiring is identical to any previous wiring.

Runout sensor wiring



Firmware installation

  • Download the file that seems more appropriate to your machine / setup
  • Unzip the .Zip file. You should find 2 files: Firmware.bin et config.txt
  • These 2 files have to be copied/paste on the Micro SD card. You then need to insert it inside your Re-Arm board.
  • Boot up the board.
    • When the firmware is updating, the board will take a few seconds in order to boot. If the Graphical display is connected, it will beep untill the firmware has been updated. Do not shut down the board while updating! (it takes about 10 seconds to complete)
    • Once the firmware is installed / updated, the display show show something on the screen.

Cura configruation

With Smoothieware firmware, the startup gcode will slightly change.


Here is what you should have in your « Start.gcode »

;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Un comment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Un comment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X Y ; Home X and Y

;Deployment of the BLTouch (Optional if you don’t have any)

M280 S3.0 ; Deploy BLT probe pin

;Positioning the hotend over the middle of the build platform
; Here you need to adjust the values in orange to locate the center of the bed based on your machine size.
; G31 allows to provide a specific zone for probing. You need to change the values in pink so that the probing location always stays inside the build platform
;You can use Gcode Toolbox In order to optimize the values in pink

G1 X200 Y150 F6000 ; Go to center of bed
G31 X20 Y35 A400 B260 ; Probe the bed and turn on compensation
G1 X200 Y150 F6000 ; Go to center of bed

; G30, followed by Zxxxx is your ZOffset.
;In order to find your ZOffset, with a BLTouch, deploy the probe, lower down your hotend until the BLTouch LED is lit. Write down the current Z location. Now move down untill the Nozzles is reaching the bed surface. Write down again the current Z location. Make the difference and you have your ZOffset

G30 Z1.4 ; Z Probe Offset
M280 S7.0 ; Retract probe pin

; This part was modified in order to start the print with enough pressure inside the hotend.

G1 X20 Y20
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E30 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen


Here nothing to change.


Scalar S – Dual drive system bed upgrade

Dual drive system upgradeThis page describes the installation of the Dual drive system bed upgrade for Scalar S 3D printer.

It postulates that you have the standard version of the Scalar S, and that you are upgrading your Y Axis.

This upgrade is a mechanical upgrade only.

It doesn’t require any firmware updates.



Bed disassembly

scalar S, upgrade plateau à double entraînement

Removing belts

In order to continue, it’s best that you remove the belt already installed.

Keep it close as you will need it very soon.

Y axis positioning

Rail assembly

Check the procedure here

Installation of the new axis

2 sides synchronization

Remove the black screw already in place.

Keep it safe for future use.

Take great care to the pulleys directions

Do not tighten the pulleys

Tighten the stabilization screws

These screws are here to stabilize the extrusion profile, to prevent it from rotating.

Back view of the printer, we install the M5x35 black screws that we kept from earlier.

New lower plate installation

Heat plate installation

Belts installation

Follow this procedure

Bed alignment

This step allows to make sure that your bed is properly aligned to your chassis

This step takes into account that your pulleys are not tighten on their shafts. They must remain loose until the end of this alignment procedure.

Once you have checked that one side is aligned, you can tighten the red extrusion holders on the chassis on one side only.

Here we are tightening the right side. It will allow us to align the other side more easily


Slide the bed toward the back of the printer. The left axis should align itself once the bed has reach the end stop.

Hold the plastic support and tighten it on the chassis.

Now, slide again the bed toward the front of the machine this time. Once at the end, hold the plastic holder and tighten it on the chassis.


You can check that the bed is centered using the hotend. It should be able to move over the whole heatbed surface. You can adjust the position of the X end stop in order to fix potential centering issues.

Your heatbed should move freely back and forth with no issues linked to parallelism.

Also your bed should be properly aligned to your chassis now. You can check that by moving the bed edge to the front of your chassis. Using a ruler, you should see that the bed is parallel to the front of the chassis on both sides (right and left).

Tightening the Pulleys

Now that your bed is properly aligned and centered you can tigthen the 4 pulleys  and you are done!