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Titan extruder assembly on your Scalar 3D printer

How to assemble Titan extruder

The official documentation is provided here

https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly

Compact Mode

The plastic support is available for free download on Thingiverse

Titan extruder mount

You will need:

  • 4 Screws M3x10 thermo
  • 6 Screws M3x8 thermo

Compatibility mode

Important Notes

  • Before anything else, make sure that the « small » cylinder is installed inside the extruder with the small plastic connector facing down.
  • Also make sure that you are using the proper plastic part located above the cylinder. It must fit your filament diameter. There is a marking under the plastic part giving you the filament diameter.
  • If using 1.75mm filament, make sure you have the PTFE Tube installed up to the end of the hotend. The part of the tube that goes out of the hotend must also go into the plastic part installed above the cylinder.

The plastic support is available for free download on Thingiverse

You will need:

  • 2 Screws M3x10mm Thermo
  • 3 Screws M3x35mm
  • 1 Screws M3x20mm

Extrudeur Titan

 

 

 

 

Questions about first use of your Scalar 3D printers

I Have a small 4 pins wire extender, what is it for?

Are my motors connectors the proper orientation?

 

I Have a small 4 pins wire extender, what is it for?

For Scalar XL users, you should have a small 20Cm extender wire. It has a 1 male and 1 female connector.

This extender allows to extend the Z axis motor wire which is on the other side of the electronic box.

Are my motors connectors the proper orientation?

Before switching on the electronics, you need to make sure that all the motors are connected . Even the extruder.

The in order to know if the orientation of each connector is good use your LCD screen

  • X Axis: Go into the menu « Prepare>Move Axis> X » and turn the display knob on the positive side (The numbers on the screen should increase). If your axis is going away from the End stop then your motor is connected the proper way.
  • Y Axis: same as  X axis

If it’s not the case you will need to switch off your electronics, turn your motor connector and check again that the motor is moving the proper way.

  • Z Axis: For Z axis, when you increase the value on the LCD the Z axis must move Up. Make sure both Z motor’s connectors are oriented the same way.

 

Upgrade BLTouch for Scalar 3D Printers

Upgrade BLTouch pour imprimantes Scalar

BLTouch sensor

BLTouch CADThe BLTouch sensor is able to sens the proximity of any print surface.

This sensor needs to be placed vertically as it’s partially using gravity for it’s sensor to go down.

It is equipped with a self and a small pin capable of going down and going up.

BLTouch DimensionsThe sensor is also equipped with some electronics and is able to detect if any error happens or if the pin is locked or stuck to something.

It’s driven using a standard Servo output and it needs +5V to be powered on.

This sensor is capable of deploying itself more than 2mm from it’s closed state. In order to operate the best way possible, you need to place it so that the pin level in closed state is about 2mm from the nozzle.

 

 

Specifications

Performances


Plastic parts

All the plastic parts needed are available on our Thingiverse


Wiring

BLTouch wiring on Ramps 1.4

  • The 3 pin connector is to be connector to the Servo 0 outputs of the ramps

Brown wire is oriented toward the outside of the board and the  Yellow Wire toward the inside of the board

  • The 2 pins connector is placed on the  « ZMIN » end stop input pins.

The white wire is placed toward the outside of the board, and the black wire is connected toward the inside on the middle range of pins.

Avoid any polarity issues and properly respect the wiring schematic here!!

Add a jumper to power up your BLTouch


Firmware changes for Official BLTouch (Antclab) probe

The changes are to be made inside « configuration.h » file of Marlin Firmware

You can download an existing firmware that fits your printer from this page

The example below are made using Marlin RC8 firmware and won’t apply to any previous versions

 


Firmware for BLTouch Clones

The changes are to be made inside « configuration.h » file of Marlin Firmware

You can download an existing firmware that fits your printer from this page

The example below are made using Marlin RC8 firmware and won’t apply to any previous versions

 

FAQ : Need some help ?

Frequently Asked Questions

First Setup

Q: An axis do not move in the right direction
A: You need to reverse the plug of that motor on the electronic card

Q: The turbo fan is not working when turning the printer on
A: it is normal, this fan is used when printing to cool down the printed piece.

Q: How can I install the kapton easily ?
A: We recommand to use some glass cleaner, spread it on the bed, put the kapton, remove the bubble with a card (credit card style). Use a cloth to remove extra glass cleaner flowing on the side. You can also use the 200mm kapton easier to install as it covers more space at once.

Q: I have an error on the LCD: « Err: TEMP. MIN PLATE« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: The printer do not detect the temperature of the bed, you need to check the connectivty of the heatbed thermistor (white cable). Is it plugged at the right place ? The cable is not damaged ? You also can check the cable has 80-100 kohm (depending the temperature)


First Print

Q: Where can i get Cura profile for my Printer?
A: You can download them from here

Q: The Heatbed does not heat
A: Make sure the static relay (SSR) is connected to the electronic card on the 12v side and you plugged the 220V connector. When heating there is a red light on the Static relay.

Q: The piece do not stick on the bed
A: Have you used some hair spray or glue ?
If yes you probably need to review the steps to setup the Z offset and increase the value (keep it negative), the lines of the first layer needs to be glued to each other.

Q: The head goes into the bed before the print when getting the points on the bed
A: You need to check the inductive probe is working, There is a red light on it when approching metal like a screw driver. Then make sure it is connected to the proper pin on the electronic card.

Q: The head goes into the bed during the print and scratch it.
A: You need to review the steps to setup the Z offset and increase the value (keep it negative), the lines of the first layer needs to be glued to each other.

Q: How can I detach my print ?
A: There are many possibilities, but always easier when the plate is cold.
– you can use a filling palette to remove the piece, taking off each side but being careful not to damage the tape.
– You can help yourself with a hammer, and use the filling palette as a burin. Always at the base of the piece.
– If the piece is solid with light hammer blow on the piece at the toughest places.
– Sometimes pulling by hand is enough 🙂 Ok we could have started with this 😛

Q: I feel there is too much or not enough plastic going out of the hotend
A: Do you have the proper filament diameter in cura ? 1.75mmfor the filament of the same diameter.
About the 3mm it might be 2.85mm, sometimes it is written on the box, our PLA is 2.85 (AdWire) You have to put 2.85mm in cura.
Ensuit Then it is important to calibrate you extruder for each filament provider, it only takes few minutes and will improve the quality of your prints.

Q : During the prints, the round shapes are more oval shaped
A : This can be caused by different things. First you need to make sure that the base of your chassis is perfectly square. Then you need to make sure that the heat bed is parallel to the base of your chassis. Finally, make sure that the Z axis extrusion profiles are evenly spaced from the edge of your chassis on both right and left sides.

A : The timing delay created by one mechanical part can also be a cause for this issue. When using Helix screws, if you are using a standard coupler, it will generate a delay when turning and compressing itself. To avoid this, you need to use a rigid coupler, such as a claw coupler.

A : Make sure your belt is properly tighten. Also make sure that no plastic part has any breaks or any default that could generate an elastic effect on your axis.

A : After some time, your belt may require to be changed. The belts using reinforced glass fibers are properly fit for this kind of application. Using reinforced steel belts might be too stiff for this kind of application.

Q : the lead screws of my Z axis are oscillating at the top. Is it a normal behaviour?
A : The lead screws are never perfectly straight. More over, when inserting them inside couplers, you may slightly move them from their central axis, creating or increasing the oscillation on the other end of the screw. Make sure to always let them move freely. Otherwise you will create Z Wobble on your prints.

 

Q : I have Wobble on my printed part  (some waves on the sides of my part), how to fix it?
A : This is a purely mechanical issue. The origin of this issue can be various and tricky to find. The wave effect is due to the Z axis not moving smoothly. There is a delay when the Z axis is changing direction. There is no clear answer for this as it depends how you assembled your printer.

The main tip for this is to to look carefully how each part is moving (the coupler, the nozzle, the carriage, the jaws, etc…) Focus your attention for a moment on each of these points and you should figure out the part causing it.


There is an error on the LCD

Q: I have an error on the LCD: « Err: MAX TEMP« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: This is a security. The head went too hot and has reached the maximum temperature accepted by the configuration. You need to restart the printer to start a new print. You might need to decrease the temperature of the head for this print.

Q : I have an error on the LCD: « Err: Thermal Runaway« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: This is a security. The printer tries to keep the head at the temperature specified but the temperature is not stable. check there is no air flow. Check the % of fan for the turbo fan in cura (or other slicer), maybe to high too soon.  You need to restart the printer to start a new print.


A broken part ?

Q: How can I prevent beeing stuck with a broken part ?
A: It is recommanded to print all parts of the printer and store them in case it breaks. (not needed for some parts like the electronic box)

Q : Where can I find the STLs of the parts of my Scalar ?
A: On Thingiverse : Scalar S, Scalar M, Scalar L, Scalar XL, Scalar XL Premium


Updates

Q: How to update the firmware ?
A: Follow the guide

 

Installation of PTFE liner inside E3D lite hot end

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeThe E3D Lite hot end is provided with a PTFE liner

It is destined to be inserted all the way inside the hot end.

it allows the filament to be properly guided inside the hot end. Also it reduces all the friction of the filament with the hot end body.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeA quick connector is available to prevent the liner from going out.

To remove the liner, just push the connector down and pull the liner at the same time.

 

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeOnce inside you need to remove the excess of liner

For Scalar S, the total length of the tube must be7.9cm.

It will allow the liner to reach the extrusion gear inside the extruder.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeThe adaptor part must then be placed on top and go through the left over liner.

The 4 fixation holesmust be aligned with the hot end support holes at the top.

Please note the position of the adaptor shaped as a bat.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfe

Electronic box assembly on chassis

This page presents where to mount on the chassis the electronic box for Scalar S, L and XL premium.

electronic box

Forewords:

The electronic box slightly differ from Scalar S and Scalar L/XL premium.

The general shape stay the same but as Scalar S is based on 2020 extrusion profiles and Scalar L and XL Premium are based on 3030 extrusion profiles.


Scalar S:

The squere is optional.


Scalar L et XL premium:

E3D V6 hot end installation on X Carriage

Installation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XThis page shows how to install E3DV6 hot end on the VWheel X axis carriage

Installation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XInstallation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XInstallation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XInstallation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XInstallation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe X

Installation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XInstallation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XInstallation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XInstallation de la tête chauffante E3Dv6 sur le charriot de l'axe XPDF3D: E3D V6 installation on X Carriage


X End stop

Ajustement of X and Y axis end stop positionPush

  1. SLide the X carriage untill the nozzle tip reaches the left edge of the build plate
  2. Adjust the location of the X end stop so that it is pressed against the carriage when the nozzle tip is on the left edge of the build plateSLide the

 

Slide the build plate backward against the Y axis end stopThe nozzle tip, again must be located on top of the Front edge of the build plate.

If not you need to adjust the position of both right and left Z axis mounts

It is important to keep the same distance between the left and right mounts, otherwise your printer geometry will be wrong.

hot end installation on X axis carriage

hot end installation on X axis carriageThis page shows hot end installation on the X axis wheel carriage.

List of parts

  • 1 M3x8mm thermoplastic screw
  • 4 M3x20mm thermoplastic screws
  • 1 t E3D V6 or E3D Lite6 hot end
  • 1 5 or 12V inductance probe
  • 2 hot end support (plastic parts)

Charriot à roulette de l'axe XThe whole assembly is made on the X axis carriage side.

The front face is the one where you will see the 4 screws to hold the belt

 

 

 

Support arrière de la tête chauffante

Use the back part of hot end holder. On it you will find the inductor probe holder on the left side.

Warning: the inductor probe holder might be located on the other plastic part that you will assemble later.

 

fixation du support de base de la tete chauffanteuse 2 M3X20mm thermoplastic screws and 1 M3x8mm thermoplastic screw, Use the holes pointed by the arrows.
You can use different holes in order to adjust the height of the holder. Use the ones that allows the holder to be the highest  possible.

 

 

 

fixation du support de base de la tete chauffante

 

 

 

 

 

 

Support de façade pour tête chauffanteNow you need the second part of the hot end holder that is used as a clamp.

 

 

 

 

 

Hot end installation

Installation Support de façade pour tête chauffanteClamp the hot end using the last plastic part.and 2 M3x20mm thermoplastic screws.
The tightening must be optimal so that the hot end cannot move or turn.Also make sure to stop tightening in order to keep the screw thread intact.

 

 

 

Sonde à inductanceYou can now install the proximity sensor.

It can be either the 5V or 12V model (the connector is different and the wiring differs slightly). The cylindrical shape must fit inside the hole located on one of the plastic parts. You can use a file in order to adjust the hole

The2 nuts allows to adjust the sensor height. The sensor blue tip must be slightly higher than the nozzle tip (see the details below)

 

 

 

 

Note: The probe might be provided with large washers with teeth. They can be removed but will prevent the nuts from un- tightening with the vibrations

 

montage de la Sonde à inductanceThe sensor must be placed on the left side of the carriage. the red or blue wires of the heater cartridge  can go behind the probe. (there might be a dedicated groove for these.)

 

 

 

 

 

montage de la Sonde à inductanceThe height adjustment of the sensor is made based on the blue tip of the probe and the hot end nozzle tip..

You must adjust the height of the probe so that the blue tip is less than 2mm higher than the nozzle tip.

An easy way to do it is to align both probe and nozzle tips at the same height. Then move the probe so that it corresponds to 1 or 2 turns of the nuts.

Important note:

The height of the probe is very important for the next steps.

  • If it’s too high, the nozzle tip will crash into the aluminium plate when performing auto bed levelling.
  • If it’s too low it will crash into the printed layer and might un stick the printed part from the bed.

PDF 3D: Hot end installation on X axis Carriage