Archives de catégorie : Scalar XL


Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 2

In this solution we are changing the insulator under both heat beds.
Before the insulator was a 2mm thick aluminum like sheet covered by kapton tape.
Here we are using the same material without the kapton tape.

The Setup

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (with the thermistor) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 21°C
  • Target temperature: 110°C
  • Print surface: 2 x 3mm thick mirrors 20x20cm
  • Insulator: Thermal aluminum like insulator 2mm thick

The temperature profiles:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C


While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 2min 30 (150 sec)
  • 110°C in 14 min 54s (894 sec)

We must wait 8 min 21sec (501 sec) to cool down from 110°C to 60°C

Compared to test 1, it’s  50 seconds faster to reach 60°C 4 minutes 29 faster (269 sec) to reach 110°C.

We also reduce by 25% the heating time compared from Test 1

We reduce by 4% (20 seconds) the time needed to cool down the heat bed.

We can see that the heat bed inertia is smaller before we need less time to heat and less time to cool down.

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 1

Into this initial solution, we are using existing solutions with 2 standard 12V heat beds and 1 power supply for each heat bed.

The heat beds are driven using DC static relays.

The setup

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (the thermistor is under this one) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 19°C
  • Target Temperature: 110°C
  • Bed print surface: 2 x 3mm thick mirrors 20x20cm
  • Insulation: silver 2mm thick insulator covered by Kapton tape

Temperature curves:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C


While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 3min 20 (200 sec)
  • 110°C in 19 min 50s (1190 sec)

We must wait 8 min 41sec to cool down from 110°C to 60°C

Even if it’s seems a long time before we reach the 110°C (about 20 minutes), the time we need to reach 60°C is more reasonable.

This test is the reference test that we will use to compare the results of the others tests later on.

Scalar XL chassis assembly

List of parts

  • 8 x  square holders (2 big and 6 small)
  • 20 x M6x12mm screws
  • 20 x  M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • 6 x side covers
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

General tips when using 3030 aluminum extrusion

The printer kit chassis is based on Aluminum extrusion of various sizes, of some metallic square holders and a set of screws + T-Nuts.





Each square holder is coming with a set of 2 or 4 M6x12 screws and 2/4 T-Nuts .

Keep the big one for the side mounts.
Use the small ones for the base and top.

Mounting square holders :
Off course you can do it many ways, but we will give you here the easier way we found, that allows you to quickly assemble your kit.





Take 2 M6 screws and place them on 2 side by side slots.
Then prepare the T-Nuts.






Start to screws the T-Nuts slightly .









The best is to place the T-Nuts so that they are parallel to each other.





Then approach then from the extrusion and slide them inside the extrusion slot.




Here is a side view, the nuts must be aligned with the extrusion slot so that they can perfectly fit inside.

Once aligned you should be able to properly fit the nuts inside the slot.




When screwing the M6 screws, the nut must perform a 90° angle turn and place lock the whole system as shown in the picture.

It can happen that 1 nut won’t turn properly because of various reasons. Be careful that it fully turns otherwise the lock performed buy the nut won’t be efficient.

So take a few seconds to make sure that each Nut has properly turned 90° inside the slot . When you unscrews the nut, it should perform another 90° angle counterclockwise and allow the whole system to be unmounted from the extrusion profile.


Base assembly

List of parts :

  • 4 x square holders (small ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key


Place all the extrusion as shown on the picture.

Notice the 40cm extrusion are placed on the sides and so that they are inside the chassis. Also the 60cm extrusions will respectively be placed on top and at the bottom of them. Now pre-assembled each of the 4 square holders with their set of screws + T-Nuts.


Here is a zoomed view of each corner of the assembly with pre-mounted square holders.

Screw each square holder on each corners

Here is the chassis base once every square holders are in place. (You should have 4 small square holders)






Side mounts assembly (video)

List of parts :

  • 2 square holders (big ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 2 50cm extrusion profiles
  • [Provided] 1  Allen key



Take as reference the bottom side of a 60cm extrusion profile, and measure 16cm from it going on the 40cm extrusion.

16cm will give you the proper place where to position the side mounts.






Once in place screw them using a square holder.





Here are the side mounts once assembled.






Assembly of the top mount  (video)

List of parts

  • 2 x square holders (small ones)
  • 4 x M6x12mm screws
  • 4 x T-Nuts
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

For this step, take the longer extrusion profile (70cm) that should be remaining and place it on top of the side mounts.Use a pair of square holders to fix it.
This should look like on the picture. Notice however that the top mount we present you are 2 x 50cm extrusion profiles attached by a center plastic mount. On your side you should have only 1x70cm aluminum extrusion


List of parts

  •  6 side covers

Take the 6 side covers that look like on the picture.





Place them in front of the far sides of the extrusion profiles. You might need to push a little bit in order to properly position them.





Push them entirely with some force. If you struggle too much use a hammer and slightly hit the flat side of the side covers, then they should get inside easily.






Final result

12V 360W power supply assembly

List of parts

  • 220V/110V – 12V 360W 30A power supply
  • Plastic cover +  LCD Voltmeter
  • IEC power connector + fuse holder and integrated switch
  • 3 x  M4x10 screws
  • 2 x M4x10 screws
  • 2 x M4 Nuts
  • 2 x 6cm black wires
  • 2 x 15cm black wires
  • 1 x 15cm green/yellow wires
  • [Not Provided] 1 cruciform screw diver

Préparation (vidéo)

Make sure the Power supply input power is compatible with your country, for example:

  • Europe : 220V
  • USA : 120V




Top Cover (vidéo)

Insert 2 M4x6mm screws inside the dedicated holes just next to the voltmeter LCD.
The screw head should be inside the cover letting the screw thread out of the cover.





Insert the power supply connector inside the dedicated hole and make sure the screws can go threw it.






Screw 2 M4 nuts on the M4 Screws thet goes out of the cover as shown on the picture.




Here is the inside view of the cover with the M4 screw heads that must be accessible with a screw diver in order to tight them up with their nuts.




Ground cable connection (vidéo)

Take the 15cm Yellow/Green cable and plug it on the side of the IEC connector the most inside the cover part.





Phases wires connection (vidéo)


Take the 2 small 6cm long phase wires (here with blue terminals), and connect them just next to the Ground wire (yellow/green).




Now connect the wire terminals on the connection pin on the same rows the same way as in the picture.
It’s more easy to connect them like the picture in a crossed over manner.


Connection of the last phases wires (vidéo)

Now take the 15 cm wires (here with red terminals) and connect them on the last 2 pins in the bottom row as shown in the picture:





Connection of the terminals on the power supply (vidéo)

Align the top cover as shown on the picture, with the power supply connector on the right side and the power supply terminals facing you.
You can also open the security cover on the power supply in order to have access to the terminals.



Ground wire connection (vidéo)

Connect the ground wire on the dedicated terminal on the power supply.

The corresponding terminal is the 3rd one starting from the right with the following symbol :





Here a zoom on the dedicated terminal







Phase wires connection (vidéo)

Now connect the 2 other phase wires on the terminals left on the right side of the power supply. Connect them on the terminals marked with « N » and « L » letters




Voltmeter connection

2 wires must be left, they are the ones of the Digital VoltMeter.
On the power supply side, you will find 6 free terminals.
They are separated in 2 groups:

  • +V
  • -V

The 3 terminals on the left of the power supply (the ones most outside of it) with the « +V » symbol correspond to the +12V output

You need to connect the Red wire from the digital Voltmeter to one of the +V terminals.
You can pick 1 of the 3 terminals on the left as you want.
The « Black » wire left will have to be connected on one of the 3 terminals on the certer of the power supply with the « -V » symbol
The following pictures show you how to proceed.

Zoom on the wires.






You can then close the security cover:







Output voltage tuning (vidéo)

This type of power supply allows to slightly adjust the output voltage using a small trim resistor and a screw diver.


In order to prevent you from any electrical hazard, we strongly recommend that you slightly close the cover before switching on the power supply. You might also consider having a quick access tuning trim (here on top of the picture.

  • Before switch the power on, make sure the Power switch is on the « 0 » position.
  • Also take a moment to check if a fuse is inserted inside the middle cavity (between the power switch and the power plug connector. You can remove the fuse cap with a small flat screw diver.The small chamber containing the fuse should be coming slowly.
  • Check that you have at least 1 fuse at the bottom of the chamber.
  • Push back the fuse cap in position.
  • Now, plug the power cable to the main power grid, and switch the power button on.





If everything goes well, the switch button should lit and the LCD voltmeter should show the current voltage output. here 12.4V. This value may vary for you, but you will tune it on the following steps so that you get 12.0







Take a screw diver and slowly turn it in one way and on the other way in order to align the power output to 12V.





Here is a zoomed picture on the trim resistor.




Once properly set you should have a stable 12.0V displayed on the LCD




Connection of the 12V output wires (vidéo)

  • Switch off thepower supply
  • Remove the power plug.
  • Take the 4 90cm long wires.

2 Wires  must have some Blue or black terminals and 2 other with red terminals .



Insert them into the front cover so that the terminals are inside the cover .
Also insert the other side of the wires having the red terminals inside the round holes with the « + » marking.
Regarding the wires with the blue terminals (or black), inser them inside the holes with  «  » marking.



All the terminals are inside the plastic cover.






The blue wires here have the Red terminals and the brown wires have the blue (or black) terminals






  • Now, connect the wires with the Red termials to the power supply terminals with the « +V » marking. They are mainly the one located on the left of the power supply just next to the green led.
  • The blue terminals wires should be left.Connect them on the free terminals on the power supply that should be around the middle with the « -v » marking


Closing of the cover (vidéo)

  • Push the plastic covert so that the side holes are aligned with the ones on the power supply .
    On one side you will need 1 M4 screw.
    On the other side you will need 2 of them




Fix the screws on their dedicated located.






Prepare the last 2 M4 screws on the other side of the cover.







Congratulation, your power supply is ready to be used.

X axis assembly (Horizontal)

Front view of the assembled part Back view of the assembled part
Scalar M: Pre assembled X carriage Scalar XL: Pre assembled X axis

Scalar XL List of parts :

  • 2 x 660x10mm
  • 3 x LM10UU bearings
  • 2 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 1 M3x16 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 x XMI 10 plastic part (Idler support)
  • 1 x XMII 10 (motor support)
  • [Not provided] 1 x hammer
  • [Non provided] 1 x bubble level

Scalar M List of parts :

  • 2 x 435x8mm
  • 3 x LM8UU bearings
  • 2 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 1 M3x16 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 x XMI 8 plastic part (Idler support)
  • 1 x XMII 8 (motor support)
  • [Not provided] 1 x hammer
  • [Non provided] 1x  bubble level


Scalar XL: Take the plastic part marked XMII and 2 660mm long, 10mm diameters smooth rods


Scalar M: Take the plastic part marked XMII and 2 x  435 long, 8mm diameters smooth rods





Approche the smooth rodes from the plastic part





Scalar XL: Push the rods inside the round slot on the plastic part of about 4.3cm . The pictures shows you how much the smooth rod is inside the plastic part.


Scalar M: Push the rods inside the round slot on the plastic part of about 2.5cm .



If you struggle in pushing the smooth rod inside , use a hammer and give some small sharp hits on the other side of the smooth rods. They will get inside little by little.




Here the pictures shows 1 smooth rod completely inside and the other one in the process of getting inside.





Once both smooth rods are in place, you will have something similar to the picture.

Notice on the picture that the top of the plastic part is indeed at the bottom of the picture.




Scalar XL: Once both smooth rods inside their slots, insert 2 x LM10UU bearings on the top rod and only 1 on the bottom rod.

Scalar M: Once both smooth rods inside their slots, insert 2 x LM8UU bearings on the top rod and only 1 on the bottom rod.


You can figure out what is the top side easily. The marking is made so that when you read it on the proper side.


Pre assembled kit: Inside the pre assembled kit, the X carriage will already be mounted with the Linear bearings .You need to position it as shown on this picture.



Scalar XL: Once the bearings are in place, take the other plastic part marked XMI 10 And push the available sides of the smooth rods inside.

Scalar M: Once the bearings are in place, take the other plastic part marked XMI 8 And push the available sides of the smooth rods inside.


This side should be easy to insert.



Once the smooth rods inside push the plastic part so that the rods are on the edge of the plastic part.





You can use a hammer and hit the middle of the plastic part if you struggle doing it!




Here is the result if you have it right.

Vue face Vue arrière

X axis with the pre assembled X carriage

X axis belt setup

List of parts

  • 3 M3x20 screw
  • (Scalar XL) 1 M3x50 screw
  • (Scalar M) 1 M3x30 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 M3 washer
  • 2 plastic washers
  • 1 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic cage for 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic fork stretcher
  • 1m40 GT2 2mm belt
  • (Scalar XL) 1 XCA 10 plastic support
  • (Scalar M) 1 XCA 8 plastic support
  • 1 GT2 16 teeth pulleys
  • 5 cable ties
  • 1 stepper motor
  • [provided] 1 allen key
  • [not provided] 1 cruciform screw diver
  • [not provided] 1 cutting pliers or pair of scissors


Insert the bearing inside the plastic cage





Insert the plastic washers on the bearing





Place the bearing block inside the Fork plastic support as shown on the picture





Insert a  M3x20 screw + M3 washer and then close the whole system with a M3 nut.





If the carriage is already mounted you can scroll down to skip this part.

On X Axis slightly space the linear bearings and move them on the center on the axis.





The following steps explain how to assemble the X carriage called XCA 10 for Scalar XL and XCA 8 for Scalar M. You can now check that it properly fit on the bearings.





Place on the carriage 3 cable ties. In order to make things easier, be careful to properly place the cable tie heads on the outside of the plastic part as shown on the picture.

Also make sure the heads have at least 1 or 2cm of free length, this will makes things easier later on when you will tight them up.



The back view will give you more access to the cable ties and will make it easier to handle them.





Tight the cable ties so that the ties heads stay at the outside of the part.This will allows to have more free room for the belt later on.




Front view, the carriage looks like the picture.

Notice the cable ties that enroll the bearing.




Now take a stepper motor and 3 M3x20mm screws





Place the stepper motor on the left of the X axis.

The wires from the stepper motor needs to be oriented toward the machine .




Screw it entirely on it’s support.





The back view shows you how to position the cables. They will then be place inside the aluminum extrusion slot later on.




Now , install the pulley on the motor axis. Place it as shown on the picture so that the thicker part of the pulley is facing the opposite of the motor. This will allow you to properly align the pulley’s teeth with the belt slot on the stepper motor support.




This side you should help you understand how to align the pulley with the belt slot.





Now take the belt stretcher that you assembled at the beginning of this chapter.





Scalar M: Take also a M3x30 screw, a washer and a M3 nut.

Scalar XL: Take also a M3x50 screw, a washer and a M3 nut.

Place the nut inside the belt stretcher, there is a dedicated slot on the side of it.

The washer will be mounted on the screw and will help to tighten the stretcher.







Use the tensioner support and place it at the end of the X axis smooth rods.It’s purpose is to make sure the tensioner will force on the X axis smooth rods ends and not on the Horizontal Z axis smooth rods.



Place the screw and it’s washer on the side of the right side of the X axis.

She should be free and be fully inside.




Now place the stretcher inside the dedicated slot on the same plastic part.

Notice the triangular shape slot. The stretcher should be able to get inside properly.



Slightly screw the stretcher with the side screw.

The purpose here is to make sure the stretcher is in place and that we have the maximum amount of possible movement to stretch the belt later on.




A side picture showing the gap between the stretcher and the X axis plastic part. The screw should be able to move freely when moving the stretcher. (the tensioner support is missing on this picture)





This picture shows you how much length is available once the stretcher is fully pushed inside it’s slot. (the tensioner support is missing on this picture)





Depending how the belt is provided you will need to cut the 2.5m meter length of it or they will already be provided with the proper length.




Take the 1m40 belt (cut the 2.5meter belt at 1m40 if the belt is provided uncut).

Also take 2 cable ties




Insert the belt inside the slot of the stepper motor holder plastic part.

Insert it at the bottom of the bearings, the belt’s teeth facing the bearings.



On the other side, handle the belt so that it goes around the pulley.

With the belt’s teeth always facing the pulley.




Another view showing the belt





Take care to push the belt on top of the bearings. The bearing will keep the belt straight to the X axis carriage so that when the motor pull or push the belt, it’s always rectilinear and parallel to the smooth rods.

Then pull the belt so that at least 10cm are available in the void.



Now go the other side of the X axis, and take the bottom part of your belt.

Push it behind the X carriage.




Now insert it behind the stretcher. If you struggle you can unscrew the stretcher, pass the belt and then screw back the stretcher.




Here is a picture of the belt once inserted behind the stretcher.





Bring both ends of the belt together.

Those 2 ends must be located at the top of the overall belt assembly.

If you have the proper length, the belt should slight cross  with enough free belt.

Place it in the center of the X carriage


Take one end of your belt and push it inside the tight gap dedicated to keep the belt into position, between the 2 linear bearings.You might need to force a little bit so that the belt is slightly smashed between the plastic.

You can use your nails to push the belt up to the end of the slot.



Then round it so that the belt teeth can join. make sure you have extra length, you will need it to secure the belt later on.





Do the same on the other side of the belt.

At this moment try to pull the belt a maximum already so that it’s quite stretched .

Whatever you do, the belt will keep a small flexibility. It’s normal, the side stretcher will cope with that later on.


Insert a cable tie and start to close it but keep it loose. One side of the belt must fully be inside the closing cable tie. the picture illustrate this..




Now close the cable tie but make sure the belt stay aligned and parallel to the smooth rods. The belt must always be aligned at the top to keep the mechanical motion of the carriage linear.




Do the same with the other side of the belt.





Once finished it should look like the photo.





Take a screw diver and stretch the belt max . Make sure not to bend the Z axis however.

You know that your belt is stretched when it seems very hard by pressing on it.

Considering the length of the belt, even when properly stretched, it might still seem a little bit flexible or might vibrate a little bit. It’s normal it shouldn’t bother that much the printing but might impact the maximum acceleration you can use on that axis.



extruder assembly on the chassis

Special Note:

This documentation was made for Greg’s extruder model and some additions were made to fit the currently provided MK8 bowden extruder.

Bowden MK8 extruder

Greg’s extruder assembled

List of parts

  • 1 Extrudeur already assembled (see full assembly here ici)
  • 2 M6x12mm screws
  • 2 T-nuts
  • [provided] 1 allen key


Start by preparing 2 set of screw/t-nuts so that they are located below the big gear wheel.




The goal here is to place it right next to the power supply unit on the top aluminum extrusion.

If you look at the printer from the front, the power supply should get to your right.

On this photo this is the back view.


Place the extruder so that the screws start to get inside the slots located below the aluminum extrusion.

The picture shows you an example.



For MK8 Extruder the process is very similar as shown on this picture, except that the motor is located in the opposite side.






The side view (right view) show the location of the T-Nuts, they should perfectly fit inside the extrusion slot.

If you already placed some side cover, remove it slowly with a flat screw diver, it’s interesting that it’s removed so that it will be easier for you to make sure the screws are properly attached. Otherwise the T-Nut on the edge of the extrusion might not turn and will not self lock.


For MK8 Extruder, again it’s very similar.

The stepper motor is below the top extrusion profile.





Here a zoom showing how it should fit inside. Those 2 screws will make the most of the work keeping this extruder in place.




Once properly inside the slots, screw it and add a side set of Screw+T-Nut .

You should be able to easily insert those even if sometimes the T-Nut won’t align properly with the screw.



Now screw it. It will maintain properly the extruder on the side and prevent it from vibrating.




Now you can put back the side cover.

The extruder might slightly go beyond the extrusion. So the side cover should align with the side of the extruder.




Push it in place to finish the assembly.





For MK8 extruder the back view should look like this picture.


Electronic assembly

List of parts :

  • 4  A4988 stepper drivers
  • 1 Arduino Mega 2560 (Funduino Mega)
  • 1 Ramps 1.4
  • set of jumpers  (optional)
  • 1 LCD 2004 display
  • 1 electronic plastic support
  • 2 triangular shape plastic support for LCD
  • 8 M3x10mm screws
  • [not provided] Screw diver

Arduino board preparation

Take the electronic plastic support  with 3 M3X10 screws  and the Arduino Mega board (here Funduino Mega)




Screw the arduino board with 3 screws, you will find 4 dedicated holes for that purpose, and some screws won’t fit some holes.Make sure you place the electronic board the same way as on the picture (the logo on the plastic support can give you some hints.

The plastic support has a direction as the holes for the arduino are not symmetrical.

The screws should fit on the top left corner, and at the bottom of the board (see picture)

It can happens that some screw heads won’t fit some holes and get stuck against the plastic connectors.

Try with some smaller screw heads if you have some.

If not only 2 or 3 screws should be enough, the main purpose is to keep the board attached on it’s support.


Ramps 1.4 assembly

Now take the Ramps board.

The jumpers should already be in place. If not you will have to place them on the proper pin header.

The jumpers are needed to configure the micro-steps used by the stepper drivers.

Placing 3 jumpers per stepper motor driver will configure them to use 16 micro-steps per step.In other words a stepper motor able to make 200 steps will see it’s possible amount of steps multiplied by 16 thanks to the stepper drivers.


Place the jumpers like on the picture. Between the rows of black female connectors between the capacitors( Round metallic components).





Arduino / Ramps Assembly

The next step is to assemble both boards together.





For this you need to place the ramps board (in red here) on top of the arduino board (here in blue).

The male connectors below the ramps board should align with the black female connectors of the arduino board.

Slightly press the Ramps board toward the arduino board.

Be very careful than all the pins or the ramps board are straight and fit perfectly into the female connectors.


Setup of A4988 stepper motor drivers

Now take the stepper motor drivers. It’s some small square modules . This model is provided usually with some small heat-sink with some tape below.




Return it them and remove the tape protection from them.





Place it on top on the bigger square chip set next to the variable resistor (the small trim).

Warning: Be very careful not to make any contact between the heat-sink and the other components surrounding it as well as the nearby pins.



Here a lateral view show how the heat sink is placed.

Also take care to avoid any contact with components that could be below the heat-sink.




A face vie showing the spacing between the heat sink and the pins on the side. If possible add more clearance than on the picture





Prepare another 3 of those modules.

At the end you should have 1 spare part . It can be useful if for any reason one of your stepper drivers get deteriorated or fail. You can also use it if you plan on using a 2nd extruder / hot end.




Placement of stepper motor drivers on the Ramps board

The next step is to assemble the stepper drivers on the ramps board.





Place the first driver on top of it’s dedicated slot.On the markings you should be able to locate the « X », « Y », and « Z ».

Those drivers are used to drive stepper motor on X, Y and Z axis.

Be very careful about how you insert the drivers as it has a polarity and cannot be reversed.

The potentiometer (trim) must be placed so that it’s in the opposite direction of the Green power supply input connector. The photo shows you an example.

WARNING: Double check the orientation of the drivers before going any further. If you invert the position you will destroy the chip.


Do the same for the whole row.

Once the 3 drivers are mounted the whole set of available female pins should be used!

If you have 1 of the stepper driver that has his pins not connected to anything, then you will need to replace properly the stepper drivers one by one.



Now insert the last stepper driver.

This last one is used to drive the extruder motor.

It’s dedicated placement is at the lower right of the board next to the output power supply terminals (here in blue).

The marking on the board should say « E0 »


Now you can place the green female connector on the power supply terminals.







LCD Setup

Prepare the LCD display and it’s associated plastic supports.

Take 4 M3X10 screws that will help you to fix the LCD on it’s supports.

On the 4 corners of the display you will find 4 screw holes for M3 screws.



Screw them so that the LCD knob is at the right of the LCD display.





Do that for both supports.

you should get something like the picture.






Connection of the LCD to the Ramps board

Now you still need to connect the LCD to the electronics previously prepared.





The LCD connector is like the picture with 1 set of long row of black female connector and a second set of 2×4 pin female connector.




On the opposite side of the green power connector you will find the corresponding set of male pins.

The LCD display connector is to be plugged on top of them.

The picture here shows you the end result.

Here be very careful that all the male pins are aligned with the female slots.

Warning:Sometimes a few pins might be slightly twisted.

With a flat screw diver slightly  straighten them without any force so that they will fit their corresponding female slots



Heat bed assembly

List of parts :

  • 1 Silicone heater
  • 1 aluminum plate
  • 1 insulation sheet
  • 1 cabled thermistor
  • 1 pen
  • 1 pair of scissors
  • 1 hard card (something like creadit card)
  •  Polyamid tape


Place the silicon heater (here orange) in the middle of the aluminum plate.

Take a mark so that when you stick the silicon heater to the aluminum plate it’s located at the center of it.




Return the silicon heater and remove the 3M tape protection .





Now remove the tape protection from the silicon heater.

Stick the silicon heater in the center of your aluminum plate.




Take some polyamid tape and cut a length to secure the polyamid on the aluminum plate. The length should be the same as the silicon heater.

WIth your hard card apply the plolyamid tape so that it stick both the remaining exposed aluminum and the silicon heater.




This is made in order to make sure that if for any reason the 3M tape is not sticking anymore you still have the polyamid that will keep the whole thing together.






The end result should look like the picture.






Position the thermistor in the center of the silicon heater as shown in the picture, and make sure that the thermistor lead wires are as close as possible as the exit of the silicon heater lead wire.



Secure the thermistor with some polyamid tape so that is stay well stuck under the heater.




With a cable tie you can attached both lead wires together, make sure that the thermistor lead wire is as flat as possible.

Position the cable tie outside of the alimunum plate area.




With polyamid you can secure the remaining part of the silicon heater (here on the left of the picture).





Now place the insulation sheet over the whole assembly. The insulating sheet must have it’s side that looks like aluminum foil toward the silicon heater so that all the infra red heat is sent back to the aluminum plate.






Now with a pen locate the position of the thermistor wire under the insulation sheet.

Once located you need to remove the part of the insulation sheet the is covering the thermistor wire.

The insulation sheet is doing more than just keeping the heat on the aluminum side, it’s also used to compensate the height of the lead wires under the place so that the aluminum side of the heat bed will stay as flat as possible afterward.


Return the assembly that you just prepared.

Looking at the machine from the back, make sure that the silicon heater power cable is exiting on the right as on the picture.

You can fix the aluminum plate to the wooden plate using some of the 4 paper clips provided.




In principle the silicon heater cable going out on the side of the plate should look like the picture, the gap between the aluminum plate and the wooden plate should be very little. It’s possible that we provide you with a 2nd polystyren sheet that is thicker to compensate with this gap a little better.





By positioning the wires, make sure to make it pass under the bed as shown on the picture.






Under the wooden bed, place a plastic clip (here the blue part) and make sure to take both the thermistor and the silicon wires inside the clip.





Now  fix it on the wooden plate.

The purpose here is to make sure that the cable doesn’t touche the smooth rod and is going just below the plastic support for the linear bearing (here in grey).

This will avoid any long term deterioration on the power cable.

Note The position of the belt tensioner, the clip is places on the opposite side side of the tensioner, the picture here show the back of the machine

In this position push up the plate and make sure that you have enough free orange wire and that he doesn’t hit the timing belt.

We might provide an extra clip to help you make sure it doesn’t hit the belt.



Connection of the heat bed to the static relay

List of parts :

  • 4 paper clips
  • 1 AC static relay
  • 2 M4 compatible T-Nuts
  • 2 M4x12mm screws
  • (not provided) 1 screw diver
  • (provided) 1 allen key
  •  plastic clips


If you look the chassis from behind, make sure the wires exit on the right exposing the fork or round terminals of the silicon heater on the side of the chassis.





Now screw the static relay and make sure to place the 2 terminals with the wave marking (with number 1 and 2) the closest to the chassis back.  The terminals with the « + » and « – » markings (also with numbers 3 and 4) are to be placed toward the vertical aluminum extrusion.




Unscrew the terminals with the wave marking and connect the silicon heater terminals to it.

Make sure you take the terminals with either red or blue colors.

Warning: Make sure to connect those terminals to the proper static relay terminals with the wave marking and labeled24 ~380VAC



Now screw the last silicon heater terminal with it’s associated static relay terminal.






Take the protection plastic part to secure the terminals.

This part should be labeled « SSRC »






One side of this plastic part has a small chamber dedicated to protect the static relay terminals wires wired to the 220V.

The orange wire should be positioned as on the picture.












Setup of End stops

List of parts :

  • 1 smooth rod support integrating the pre wired end stop.
  • 1 x 8mm (Scalar M) or 10mm (Scalar XL)  smooth rod compatible end stop support
  • 1 End stop with a wheel
  • 2 sets of M6x12mm screw and it’s T-Nut
  • 2 cable ties


Assembly of the Y axis end stop

Take the plastic part looking like a hook and clips it over the smooth rod near the X axis motor support .

Here we placed it on the top rod, but you can place it on the bottom one if you feel the end stop doesn’t hit the X carriage




Now take the end stop with the wheel and place it so that the wires are on the outside of the machine toward the stepper motor, and make sure that the wheel is heading toward the smooth rod.

The main prupose here is that the wheel would hit the X carriage to signal to the electronic that the carriage has reached the MIN position on X axis.


In order to allow the more natural position of the end stop’s wire, just make sure they go behind the threaded rod, between the threaded rod and the aluminum extrusion as shown on the picture.

Also secure the end stop on it’s support using 2 cable ties.



Bring the X axis carriage against the end stop and check that the wheel is properly pushed by the carriage and that the probe wire is well positioned.

If the probe wire is causing trouble, you might consider placing this end stop on the bottom smooth rod.

Also check that the end stop support is  not moving on the smooth rod to avoid possible future issues.


This picture shows the front view. The end stop is pushed against the x Carriage.

At this moment check that the nozzle position over the heat bed is reaching the border of it. If it’s not the case, just readjust the location of the end stop a little bit in order to achieve this goal.


In order to make sure tat the end stop is properly attached to the smooth rod, you can constraint it using the cable tie and secure the end stop lead wire with it as on the picture making sure it’s going behind the threaded rod.



Y Axis End stop installation

We are going to install here the end stop of the Y axis .

This items should already be assembled . You might need to remove the protective scotch however before using it.

You should have on your chassis 3 identical heatbed smooth rod supports and 1 other with the integrated end stop holder.

It is to be placed on the opposite side of the power supply, also on the opposite side of the Y axis motor on the same extrusion profile.


These 2 pictures should help you to locate the proper position of it.on your machine.









Now take the M4x20 screw and it’s 2 M4 nuts.






Place the nut at the middle of the screw thread.





Under the heatbed, you should have a special LM8UU linear bearing holder with a hole dedicated to this screw .





You should have this support aligned with the end stop holder.





Now insert the screw inside up to the nut






Adjust the screw depth so that the nozzle tip reach the edge of the heat bed.






Secure the Screw using the left over M4 nut.






(Goodies) Assembly of the Y axis end stop

Now you are going to assemble the Y axis end stop.

Take the plastic support that is compatible with 30×30 slots.

Prepare a set of M6x12mm screw and a T-Nut.

Place the end stop so that the contact side is placed toward the outside of the part. Also  center the end stop so that the dedicated holes on the plastic part for securing the end stop are aligned with the end stop holes.

The photo shows you how to place it.


secure it wit 2 cable ties.

A good tip is to make sure that the cable ties heads are placed on the left of the plastic part. The picture should help you to place them properly.




Place the whole assembly on the side of the Y axis motor near the YMI marked plastic part.

The lead wire of the end stop can be placed like on the picture, afterward the motor wires and the end stop wires will follow the some path.



The inverted view shows how the end stop contact is located and how the wires are going to be placed.

This position is also nice to protect the contact metallic plate from being broken.



Installation the Y axis end stop finger

Under the heat bed, make sure to be on the opposite side of the heat bed power cable.

Now take as reference the linear bearing support located the closest to the Y axis end stop.

On this photo the Top left linear bearing support



From this starting point, measure 100mm (10cm) on the right of it and then go down 25mm (2.5cm). Then make a mark.

Then go right again for 10 mm (1cm) and make a 2nd mark.

Both marks will be used to locate the screws for the Y axis finger holder


Now take the finger holder and place the 2 wooden screws to secure it in place at the location of the previous marks.


A M3X20mm screw and 2 nuts are to be used in order to adjust the Y MIN position of the heat bed.