Archives de catégorie : Scalar XL

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Electronic Wiring – Scalar M – XL

Electronic Wiring on Ramps 1.4 board

5V or12V probe? Careful choose your schematic

  • 12V probe has 1 Dupont 2 pins connector and 1 red wire left over
    • Red wire left over: +12V
    • Black wire: 0V- Ground
    • Red wire in connector: Signal.

 

 

 

 

Here is the wiring diagram to use


  • 5V probe has only 1 Dupont connector with 3 pins.
    • Brown wire (+5V)
    • Blue wire (0V – GND)
    • Black wire (Signal)

 

  • 5V probe can be provided with and extender with different colors
    • Red wire (+5V)
    • Black wire (0V – GND)
    • White wire (Signal)

The wiring on the electronic board is similar to the previous version of this probe.

  • The Red wire corresponds to the Brown wire
  • The Black wire corresponds to the Blue Wire
  • The White wire corresponds to the Black wire

Here is the wiring diagram to use


 

 

Schematic for 12V proximity sensor

Electronic wiring on Ramps 1.4

On this 2nd schematic, ou will find a schematic closer to what is provided within the kit. With the induction probe, the hot end fan ad the auxiliary blower fan.

On the induction probe, it is provided with 3 wires. 2 (red and black) are connected to a Dupont 2 pin connector, and 1 (red) left alone with a node here, is the power supply of the probe.

Schematic for 5V proximity sensor

Brachement électronique de la carte Ramps 1.4 avec sonde à inductance 5V

This schematic corresponds to the kits provided after 17th October 2016.

This kit is provided with a 5V proximity sensors. The blue wire is the ground wire. The black wire is the signal wire and the brown wire is the +5V powe wire.

If your probe is not provided with a 3pin black connector, please look at the other schematics.

A Y shape wire extender is also provided. It’s directly connected to the 12V power output of the Ramps board and will help you to connect the hot end fan power supply to the +12V. It will also be used to connect the 80mm 12V fan dedicated to cool down your electronics.

 

You should be able to recognize the other components now. The wire’s color on the stepper motors are only for information, the one provided might have a completely different set of colors. The one on the power terminals are real colors with the red wire corresponding to +12V and the black wire to the ground wire (0V)

 


Ramps 1.4 Schematic

Ramps 1.4 Schematic

For information purpose here is the official schematic of the Ramps 1.4 board. It is the same you will find on the official reprap wiki .

This schematic give you more data on all the pin out and also on the optional headers.

 

 

A word about the Big green power terminal

Ramps 1.4 power terminalsYou need to understand that the Green power connector on the left of the schematic picture is a Plug connector,

Meaning that the big part with the terminals can be removed from it’s base.

The picture here shows the 2 different parts:

  • On the left the terminal part that can be removed/unplugged
  • On the middle the fixed part, soldered on the ramps board
  • On the right side, the 2 parts attached together.

 


 

As visual support here is a picture of the electronic board free from any cables.

If you want compare directly with the previous schematic, you will need to make a 180° rotation as the power terminals are on the right on this picture and on the left on the previous schematic

 

 


For the standalone end stop holder (you might not have it, it has been replaced by the one below.)

Let’s start with the cables located on the Y axis, under the heat bed.

Also take 2 « long » U shaped clips and 1 cable tie.

 

For Integrated end stop, it’s very easy, the picture shows you how the wires are placed.

 

 

 

 

 


Pass all the wire inside the chassis.

You should have 2 wires of the end stop and 4 for the stepper motor.

Bring them all together and secure them inside the aluminum profile slot located just behind the stepper motor support

 


View from inside of the machine, the wires can easily fit inside the aluminum profile slot .

With 2 long plastic clips, secure the wires. Using short clips is not advised because they will raise the chassis of a few millimeters on this side only breaking the overall equilibrium. Use the « long » clips to keep the main part of the clip oriented toward the top of the machine.

 


(Scalar XL) In the corner of the chassis is located the SSR static relay. Attach the wires with a cable tie with the wires from the heat bed.

This will secure the wires on the same location.

 

 

 


 

(Scalar XL) Tighten the cable tie.

 

 

 

 

 


Take the end stop connector.

 

 

 

 


At any steps, feel free to go back to the official schematic if you have any doubt about the picture or if it’s not clear.

Place the Y axis end stop connector on it’s place, please read the following to the end before doing anything .

On the picture, the whole set of pins located on the lower left side is dedicated to end stops.

There are 3 rows pins from top to bottom.

The first row is linked to the +5V power (provided from the arduino itself).

The second row is linked to the Ground (+0V)

The last row is linked directly to the arduino.

Attention: Never connect the top row with the middle row because you will short circuit the +5V generated by the arduino when the end stop will close causing. If for some reason you happen to do this you will cause some irreversible damages to the arduino power supply and the electronics might not work anymore afterward.

Important: All the end stop MUST be connected on the bottom and middle row.

To complete the explanation, you can connect up to 6 end stop on a 3d printer. for each axis you can have 2 end stops, one for MIN and the other one for MAX position.

The firmware allows to use only MIN end stops and will handle by software the one for MAX position.

So you can reduce the amount of end stops to 3 end stops.

Each columns dedicated to 1 specific end stop.

Each axis is grouped by 2 columns side by side.

Starting from the right of the picture you will get the following :

  1. X MIN
  2. X MAX
  3. Y MIN
  4. Y MAX
  5. Z MIN
  6. Z MAX

You will connect the Y axis MIN end stop at the bottom of the 3rd column from the right..


Now let’s connect the heat bed thermistor connector located under the heat bed.

Locate it’s connector, you will now connect it to the electronic board.

 

 

 


The thermistor dedicated input pins are located just above the one dedicated for end stops.

You will find 6 pins on the same row, with T0, T1, T2 marking just below.

  1. T0 is for the hot end thermistor.
  2. T1 is for the heat bed thermistor
  3. T2 is an optional thermistor for a possible 2nd hot end.

So, connect the heat bed thermistor on the 3rd and 4th pin from the right, which should correspond to T1


Now take the Y axis stepper motor connector .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The dedicated pins for stepper motors are located below each stepper motor drivers, the small components with the heat sink.

You will find the markings indicating what stepper motor the driver is dedicated to.

On the top row, you have 3 motor drivers side by side. From right to left you have the dedicated axis:

  1. Axe X (marked X)
  2. Axe Y (marked Y)
  3. Axe Z (marked Z)

On the 2nd row you have here on the picture only 1 stepper driver and a free space for a 5th stepper driver.

Those are dedicated to Extruders, the part of the printer that pushes the plastic to the hot end.

From right to left:

  1. Extrudeur 0 (marked E0)
  2. Extrudeur 1 (marked E1)

Now connect the Y axis motor cable on the middle connector of the first row.

Very important: The stepper drivers don’t support to be powered on without any motor attached to them. doing this will definitely damage the component.

Please make sure to have at least 1 stepper motor connected to each stepper drivers mounted on the electronic board!

If you are using only 4 axis (X, Y , Z, and E0) and you happen to have 5 stepper drivers, mount only 4 of them and keep the 5th one in it’s packaging. It can be of some use as spare part if one of the drivers is failing or damaged.


Now let’s look at X axis stepper motor connector

 

 

 

 


This one is to be connected on the right of the Y Axis motor on the first row.

 

 

 

 


Now take the X axis end stop

 

 

 

 

 


It has to be connected at the bottom of the first Column starting from the right of the end stop dedicated header pins.

 

 

 


Still on the same machine’s side, you should have the Z axis motor connector left.

 

 

 

 

 


The Z axis has 2 dedicated pin header’s rows located under the dedicated Z axis stepper motor driver.

You may want to know that 1 single stepper driver can drive 2 stepper motor at once.

Connect this motor on one of the 2 rows.

 


(Scalar XL) Still on the same side of the machine, you can connect the static relay to the electronic board.

Start by taking a black cable provided with the static relay.

 

 

 


(Scalar XL) Screw it on the terminal connector with the «  » marking and the number « 4 »

(Scalar M) You won’t have any static relay on Scalar M, so take the 2 power wires coming from the heat bed.

 

 

 


(Scalar XL) The other side of the cable is to be connected on the set of power terminals (here blue) with « D8 » marking.

Each terminal connector of this column is identified by a small marking « + » that identifies the +12V output.

As the wire you have was connected on the « – » of the static relay, locate the terminal connector with « D8 » marking and connect the wire on the connector below the « + » marking. It should be the 2nd connector starting from the top.

(Scalar M) Take any one the 2 silicon heater power wire and plug it to the same terminal (the silicone heater has no polarity, so there is no ‘+’ and no « -« )

 


On the static relay side, connect now the 2nd wire (it should be red).

 

 

 


Screw it on the last remaining terminal with the « + » marking and identified by the number « 3« .

 

 

 

 


(Scalar XL) Connect the other side of the wire on the power terminal blocks, on the very first connector starting from the top, just above the previous wire you connected.

(Scalar M) take the left over heat bed power wire and plug it at in this same terminal.

 


Scalar XL:

On the XL heat bed, as it’s 220V the heat bed is provided with a Ground wire. It’s the one with Yellow and green color.

 

The purpose of this wire is to link the metallic chassis of your printer to the ground.

Indeed, if the 220V power wire gets broken for any reason and touches the chassis, your electric panel should crack up.

In order to have a proper connection, you need to connect it to any M6 screw on your chassis.

Here is an example on where you can place it! We choose a Metalic Square as it seems they provide the best location for this purpose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The picture here is giving you some more information with a set of stickers on the wires. It should help you to figure out better where each wire is located

 

 

 

 

 

 


(Scalar XL) Start by separate the wires coming from the static relay and the other remaining ones..

 

 

 

 


Place the wires on the slot of the vertical aluminum profile.

You can use 2 « long » clips to help you maintain the wires inside the slots as shown on the picture.

 

 


Also add the wires coming from Y axis motor as well as it’s end stop inside the same slot on top of the wires attached to the static relay.

You might have to remove and replace the clips previously attached on the aluminum profile.

 


Now you can also insert the Z axis motor wire and help you with the already in place clips.

 

 

 


You should have 2 set of wires left coming from the X axis.

Keep in mind that those wires will have to follow the up down movement of the X axis.

 

 

 


Take them in your hand.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Take the 2 sets of wires, 1 with 4 wires and the other one with 2 wires. As they will move at the same time, it’s interesting to keep them together and check that there are enough length for them to go up and down the Z axis.

 

 

 


The best is to have the X axis carriage at the lowest or highest position possible so that you can quickly estimate the amount of wire length needed.

Here our carriage is located at the bottom and we roughly evaluate the length of wire we need for it to move up. mark or keep this length (here with our hand on top)

 

 


You can secure them by inserting them inside the vertical profile slot by letting them exit either toward the top or the opposite.

Secure them with a clips at the level marked by your hand earlier corresponding to the length needed to move all along the Z axis.

 

 


You can secure the wires with cable ties.

 

 

 

 

 


Now continue on with the set of wires coming from the hot end.

Place them on the middle of the top horizontal aluminum profile.

 

 

 


To make sure you have left enough free cable to allow the hot end to move freely, place the X carriage at one of it’s right or left limits. Here on the lower right corner.

Make sure to have enough free wire for the hot end to move up and down and also in each corners.

 

 


Take 3 clips, 2 long and 1 short.

They will help you to keep all the wires in place in the aluminum profile slots.

 

 

 


Start by securing your wires by placing them inside the top slot of the aluminum profile and use a long clip to keep them in place.

 

 

 

 


With the second long clip, keep in place the wires up to the electronic display.

You can let free the wires on the side. We will handle them later on.

 

 


Take the wires coming from the power supply.

We advise you to twirl the 4 cables together as it allows to easily keep them in place inside the aluminum slots. It also prevent from making any unwanted nodes with other cables later on.

 

 


Locate and take the connector from the other Z axis stepper motor that we previously placed inside the vertical aluminum profile. It should exit right next to the power supply if we refer to the previous wiring we did on this part.

 

 

 


Pass it inside the top horizontal aluminum profile and secure it with the last clip you should have.

You can use the already in place clips to secure the remaining of the wire up to the end.

 

 

 


Connect this connector on the pin header dedicated for the Z axis motor, It should be the last one remaining for the Z axis. Here at the top left of the picture.

 

 

 

 


Take the last stepper connector connected to the extruder motor.

This one must go behind the power supply and follow the sale slot used for the previous Z axis connector.

 

 


This should look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 

 


Connect it on the last pin header dedicated to stepper motors, below the stepper driver marked with « E0 ».

Here on the second row of stepper drivers on the right.

 

 


The cable will go through the same slot as the one used for the last Z axis motor wire.

 

 

 

 


Now, should remain the power supply power cables to be placed on top of the other stepper motor wires.

The clips should be able to keep all the cables into place.

 

 

 


Connect your wires on the general green power input connectors.

The whole set has polarity so make sure you connect the + output from the power supply to the + input of the board and the same goes for the Ground (minus) output of the power supply to the minus input of the board « + »-> »+ » and « – » -> « -« .

On this picture the blue cables are the « +12V » output of the power supply (yours should be red) and the brown wires are the Ground output of the power supply (yours should be black).

 

 


On the green power terminals a clear marking tells you the polarity of each terminal.

In order to emphasize the polarity of each terminal we added some sticker on the photo .

The ground cables (here in brown, yours in black) are to be connected to the « – » terminals.

The +12v power cables (here in blue, yours in red) should be connected on the other terminals marked with « + » sign.

 

 


Once all of them are connected it should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Now take the wires from the hot end fan.

 

 

 

 


Connect them on the output power terminal (here in blue) on the terminals marked with « D9 » which should be the middle terminals.

The red wire corresponding to the +12V should be connected to the terminal with « + » marking (here the 3rd on starting from the top).

Connect the remaining black wire corresponding to the « – » (ground) just below.

 


On the recent kits this fan might already be provided with a 2 pin connector

If your ramps board is provided with a « Y » shape wire extender then use it to connect the fan connector to the +12V of your ramps board.

Take the wires from the hot end.

The fan in front should be On all the time, so it will be connected to the +12V input of the board.

 

 


If you have the « Y » shaped wire extender, conserder using it . Use the following step only as an alternative solution to connect the hot end fan to the 12V Power supply.

The red wire (+12V) is to be connected on the same terminal power inputs marked with « + » along side the wires coming from the power supply.

Here we are using the 2nd green terminal starting from the top.

The black wire for the ground is to be connected to the terminal above with the « – » marking

 


Regarding the thermistor wire coming from the hot end, it is to be connector on the 2 dedicated pins marked « T0 » at the right of the thermistor dedicated to the heat bed.

Here the screw diver shows where it’s located.

 

 

 

 


Take the wires of the hot end heater cartridge.

They can be any color (often red or blue depending on the power of the heater cartridge).

 

 

 

 


The are to be connected on the last power output terminals (here in blue at the very bottom.

The heater cartridge is mainly a resistive element so it has no polarity at all and wires have no + or -, so you can connect them as you want on the last terminals at the bottom.

 


Now on the inductance probe wire, take the free red wire.

 

 

 

 


This stand alone wire is to be connected on the « + » marking of the green power input terminals. Take the one you want, here for a better repartitions, we propose to connect it to the green terminal at the very bottom.

 

 

 


The 3 pin connector with only 2 out of 3 pins are connected is dedicated to the Z min end stop.

Note: On certain kits the induction prob is provided with a 2 pin dupont connector (black) with 1 red and 1 black wire.

Warning, This connector has a polarity!

The 2 wires must always be connected on the last 2 rows of pin header with the void unconnected pin left alone for the 1 row.

On the version with 2 pin dupont connector, it must also be connector on the 2 last rows.

The green or red wire corresponds to the probe signal, so it must be connected to the signal dedicated line that is the last row.

The black wire is the ground of the probe. It must be connected to the middle row.

Heatbed upgrade – extrusion profiles supports

heatbed holder

Notice about GT2 pulleys

The gt 2 pulleys on the pictures here are show only as an information. You will install them later on.

 

List of parts:

  • 3 extrusion profiles supports (plastic part)
  • 1 extrusion support with end stop (pièce plastique)
  • 8 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 8 x  M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 TNuts
  • 4 GT2 16 teeth pulleys
  • 1 cable tie

Assembly process

Take the plastic part

Use 2x625ZZ bearings

These 2 bearings will be inserted inside specific grooves of the plastic part.

How to place the later GT2 pulleys

The GT 2 pulley will then come between the 2 bearings.

Special note:

In order to align later on the belt, the pulley will need to be laid against 1 of the bearings. In order to keep the symetric aspect of this part, you will get a small void between the other side of the pulley and the other bearing.

 

The location of the pulley will be explained later on

Repeat the same logic on the 2 other parts. You should get 3 identical parts.

End stop holder.

The procedure is the same here

The only difference is the special location where you need to install the end stop

Note however the location of the en stop wheel pointing up.

 

Warning, this end stop holder has been updated starting Avril 2017

Here is the new version

In order to keep track of previous parts,  here is the old version.(before Avril 2017)

Once assembled

Again the pulleys cann be held right now and are shown only for further comprehension

Preparing the nuts and screws

The final phase here is to prepare all the M6X12mm screws and their Tnuts that we will use later on.

You will need :

  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 Tnuts

The side holes on the plastic parts are used to install these screws and Tnuts

 

Extruder Calibration

Why do we need to calibrate our extruder?

It allows you to make sure that the proper amouint of filament is provided to your hotend.

Why do we need to calibrate the extruder on each machine?

The quantity of plastic pushed by the extruder depends mainly on the diameter of the extrusion gear.

Why calibrate the extruder?

It will increase the procission and quality of your prints because the proper amount of plastic will be provided to the hot end..

Why do you need to do this calibration on each machine?

The quantity of plastic pushed inside the hotend depends mainly on the drive gear diameter of the extruder.

This gear is machined with a different tolerance. So the gear diameter will vary from one model to another one and from one brand to another one..

How to proceed?

We adjust the amounts of steps / mm required to push the filament 1mm.

The overall procesdure is as follow:

  1. We extrude a certain length of filament, let’s take 200mm.
  2. We measure with a graduated ruller how much filament has been pushed.
  3. We then use a cross product to adjust the value of our machine.
  4. Then we check that the new value is good by extruding again 200mm and we measure again.
  5. We adjust when needed and we reapeat step 4 ntill we find the proper value.
  6. Finally to ensure the measurment error is very small we extrude 400mm or 600mm  of material (something you can measure with your ruller) , We then slightly adjust the EStep/mm to get our final setting.
  7. At this stage your extruder should be properly calibrated and the quality of your prints should greatly increase.

Step by Step :

  • If you are in Bowden mode, remove the PTFE tue at the exit of the extruder. (You need to push the small cap at the base of the tube and then pull the tube at the same time)
    Then push the filament so that the tip is at the same level as the extruder shell.
  • If you are in Direct drive, you will need to unmount the extruder from it’s support, so that you can measure at the very edge of the extruder exit.
  • Cleanly cut the filament to that it’s easier to measure.

  • The Provided SD card contains a set of Gcode that will help you in this process. You can find them here:

 

  • You will find severall files (ExtrudeXXXmm.gcode and RetractXXXmm.gcode)

  • Depending the firmware version, you will need to pre heat your hot end before extruding.
  • With your LCD browse inside the SD card into the folder  and print « Extrude200mm.gcode » .

  • Measure how many mm of filament is extruded. (IMake sure to use a fine Ruller to avoid measurements issues)

  • In order to make sure to avoid any slippery that may affect your next measurements (and probably make your measurements weird), It is strongly advised to perform these steps several times by resetting the filament position and extruding again 200mm.
  • If your measurements are consistent you can proceed to the folowing steps.

Slippery case:

  • In the opposite scenario, you will need to investigate where the slippery comes from.
  • Here are some hints :
    • The extruder spring is not tight enought.
    • The filament spool is forcing on the filament, preventing the extruder to pull it properly ( Look for any nodes on the filament, the spool itselft must be free)
    • The extruder compression finger might be broken, and the bearing is improperly applying pressure on the filament.
    • your Extrusion gear is improperly screwed, the motor is turning but your extrusion gear is slipping.
    • The extrusion gear might be full of plastic or dirty
    • Something is tempering with your filament
  • If you solved this issue you will need to check again by doing again the previous steps.

 


 

Computation of the proper Epas/mm value
Use of « cross product »

  • Once you have checked that your extruder is slippery free you will be able to compute the new ESteps/mm by using the following formula:

 (Actual EStep / mm ) * (Expected extruded filament length) / (Length of measured extruded filament) = new EStep/mm

Example detailed below : 150 * 200 / 198 = 151.5 ESteps/mm

In order to obtain the ESteps/mm of your extruder you will need to navigate inside your LCD display  » Controle>Mouvements>EStep/mm » (last parameter of the list)

Example explaination :

if you have extruded 200mm of filament

  • Expected extruded filament length = 200mm

If you measured 198mm

  • Length of measured extruded filament = 198mm

if your Estep/mm is 150 step/mm ( » Control>Mouvements>EStep/mm« )

  • Actual EStep / mm = 150 pas/mm

you get:

New EStep/mm = 150 * 200 / 198 = 151.5 (Please take good care of the decimale)


 

Applying our new EStep/mm

  • Now that you calculated the new EStep/mm for your extruder you need to apply this parameter to you machine using the LCD display:  « Control>Mouvements>EStep/mm« 
  • Do again the test to extrude 200mm of filament. The extruded filament length should be better .If you still have some error it’s often due to the precission of the initial measurement. (90% of the time)
  • Once you get something close to 200mm , then extrude again 200mm, you should be able to measure 400mm. This steps allows you to reduce the measurement error based on 200mm.
  • At this stage you can apply your final fined tuned EStep/mm..
  • You can also use « Retract200mm.gcode » to double check that your filament properly comes back to it’s position of orgine.


 

Congratulation, Make sure to save your settings !

You have now completed the calibration process of your extruder.

Make sure that your new setting is properly saved inside your printer EEPROM:

  • « Control> Save config« 
  • Wait a few seconds and switch down the printer. Switch it back on and check that the setting has properly been saved (« Control>Mouvements>EPas/mm« )

 

Resources :

For those that lost the content of the original SD card provided with the Scalar M or Scalar XL you can download the calibration Gcode here by clicking in the Zip icon or the link below:

Calibration_Gcodes.Zip

 

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 9

Now that we know better the impact on the insulation material over the heatbed performances, we are going to see how to reach 110°C.

For this we are going to test a custom made 700W 220V silicon heater (400x300mm)

Update : this model is installed by default on our Scalar XL!

The setup:

Very similar to the previous test. here we keep the aluminum plate that has a great heat spread on the whole surface.

We add the insulation foil previously tested.

From top to bottom:

  • Aluminum plate
  • 1 700W silicone heater
  • Insulation foil
  • Wood plate

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 1
  • Heater: 1x700W 300x400mm
  • Initial Temperature: 22°C
  • Target Temperature: 110°C
  • Print Surface: 1x 3mm aluminum plate (435x320mm)
  • Insulator: Foil insulator

Temperature profiles:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C

 

Conclusion

While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 1 min 07 (67 sec)
  • 110°C in 3 min 06s (186 sec)

The system can easily reach 110°C! The temperature profile is nearly linear and we feel that we can go higher in temperature!

We need to wait 8 min 12 sec (492 sec) to cool down from 110°C to 60°C

Comparison with previous test :

Here the results are barely comparble because we go from 400W to 700W. However we can still have a notice a few things:

  • We can easily reach 110°C in 3 minutes
  • The ability of this system to keep the heat has also increased!

Compared with test 2, which is giving us the best results until now over 8 differents tests, we have:

  • The heating time to reach 60°C has decreased by 123%
  • The heating time to reach 110°C has also decreased by 80%!

 

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 7

In this case, we are studying the impact of the insulation when we swap the cork and the insulator foil compared with test 6.

The setup

IMG_0412

In a similar manner, the corkis now placed on top of the insulator foil, against the heating element.

From top to bottom we have:

  • Aluminum plate
  • 2 heating plates
  • Cork
  • Insulator foil
  • Wood plate

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (with the thermistor) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 24°C
  • Target Temperature: 110°C
  • Print Surface: 1x 3mm aluminum plate (435x320mm)
  • Isolant: 2mm insulator foil + 2mm cork sheet

Temperature profiles:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C

 

Conclusion

While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 4 min 09 (249 sec)
  • 100°C in 30 min 54s (1854 sec)

The system can barely reach 100°C !

And we must wait 6 min 40 sec (400 sec) to  cool down from 100°C to 60°C

Comparison with the previous test:

Compared with  test 6 the performances are slightly better at 100°C but slighly worth around 60°C

  • Heating time to reach 60°C has increased by 4%
  • Heating time to reach 100°C MAX has decreased by 0.5%.

In the end , the insulation foil has better performances when placed directly against the heating element allowing it to push back to the aluminum plate the whole IR radiation.

Also the Cork seems to have some kind of heat capacity that decreases the heat bed performances.

However it allows to keep the heat longer during cooling times.

 

 

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 6

in this solution, we are studying the addition of the cork layer below the foil insulator. We are ading the 2mm thick cork sheet to the systems described on test 5.

The insulation fois allows to revert back the IR radiation to the aluminum surface, it seems to be the best location for it to be against the heating element.

The cork sheet here will telle us if we can get an extra gain of performance for all the heat spreading below the plate.

The setup

Very similar to the previous test, the cork layer is against the MDF plate .

From to to bottom layer we have:

  • Aluminum plate
  • 2 heating plates
  • Insulator foil
  • Cork
  • Wood plate

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (with the thermistor) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 24°C
  • Target Temperature: 110°C
  • Print Surface: 1x 3mm aluminum plate (435x320mm)
  • Insulator: insulator sheet + 2mm insulator sheet

Temperature profile:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C

 

Conclusion

While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 3 min 59 (239 sec)
  • 100°C in 31 min 03s (1863 sec)

The system can barely reach 100°C!

And we need to wait 6 min 22 sec (382 sec) to cool down from 100°C to 60°C

Comparaison par rapport au test précédent:

Compared with  test 5 it still seems worth even with the addition of the cork layer:

  • The heating time increases by 28% to reach 60°C
  • The heating time increase by 35%  to reach 100°C MAX!
  • The heated cools down 3% faster

Adding the cork below the insulation foil strangely decreases the performance of the insulation!

 

 

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 5

In this solution, we are studying the use of a single Aluminum plate 435x320mm, 3mm thick) with addition to a foil insulation sheet, used in test 2 that seem.

The Setup

We can see here the insulator below the aluminum plate.

Setup Details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (with the thermistor) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 24°C
  • Target Temperature: 110°C
  • Print Surface: 1x 3mm aluminum plate (435x320mm)
  • Insulator: 2mm insulator sheet

Temperature profiles:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C

 

Conclusion

While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 3 min 07 (187 sec)
  • 100°C in 23 min 01s (1381 sec)

The system can barely reach 100°C and 102°C seems to be the maximum!

And we need to wait 6 min 35 sec (395 sec) to cool down from 100°C to 60°C

Comparison with the previous test:

Compared with test 4 it seems a little bit better :

  • The heating time to reach 60°C has decrease by 42%
  • The heating to to reach 100°C Max has decreased by 30%.

We have a gain in heating time between 30% and 40% by simply changing the insulator below the aluminum plate. This foil insulator is more performant than the cork sheet for this kind of application.

Regarding the cooling time we get the same results as previous test..

Here we see that the foil insulator is radiating the infrared radiation toward the aluminum plate, increasing the performance between 30% to 40%.

Comparison with the Initial test:

  • We decrease by 7% the heating time to reach 60°C.
  • We increase by 41% the heating time to reach 100°C
  • The print surface is Increased by 74%.
  • In this system the max temperature seems to be limited to 100°C Max!
  • However, even by increasing the heating surface by 74% the time delta to reach 100°C is only 41%.

 

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 4

In this solution, we are studying the use of a single 435x320x3mm aluminum sheet compared with 2 20x20cm mirrors.

The Setup

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (with the thermistor) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 24°C
  • Target Temperature: 110°C
  • Print Surface: 1 a3mm thick aluminum sheet (435x320mm in size)
  • Insulator: 2mm cork sheet

Temperature profiles:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C

 

Conclusion

While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 5 min 22 (322 sec)
  • 100°C in 32 min 45s (1965 sec)

The system can barely reach 100°C and 102°C seems maximum!

And we must wait 6 min 36 sec (396 sec) to cool down from 100°C to 60°C

Comparison from the previous test:

compared with  test 3  It seems worth but let’s see the differences in numbers:

  1. We have to note however that the surface to heat up has greatly increased from 800cm² to 1392cm² , it’s 74% more surface to heat up.

So it can be normal that the heating time is worth!

  • We increase by 68% the heating time to reach 60°C
  • We increase by 172% the heating time to reach up 100°C MAX!

The system seems dimensioned to reach 60°C, However it’s impossible to bo beyond 102°C with an open system.

Regarding the cooling time, the aluminum plate properly dissipate the heat, the temperature go from 100°C to 60°C in 3 min 36 sec( 396 sec)

So the time to cool down is decreased by 29% compared to test 3.

Comparison with the Initial test:

  • The heating time to 60°C is increased by 61%
  • The heating time to 100°C is increased by 100%
  • The print surface is increased by 74%.
  • The overall systems seems less efficent based on the initial test.
  • The heat spread into aluminum is far better than using mirrors.!

 

 

Heat bed Study for Scalar XL – Test 3

In this solution we are studying the use of 2mm insulation cork sheet, placed below the heating element.

The setup

Setup details:

  • Heat beds: 2
  • Bed 1: MK1a (with the thermistor) powered by PSU N°1 (360W)
  • Bed 2: MK2B powered by PSU N°2 (300W)
  • Initial Temperature: 24°C
  • Target Temperature: 110°C
  • Print Surface: 2x3mm thick mirrors (20x20cm)
  • Insulator: 2mm cork sheet

The temperature profiles:

The red curve is the heating profile, when we apply the 110°C target.
The blue curve is the cooling profile, when the target temperature is set to 0°C.Here the power supplies are OFF.

At the bottom of each graph you have the time in seconds

On the left of the graphs you have the temperature in °C

Conclusion

While heating we have:

  • 60°C in 3 min 12 (192 sec)
  • 110°C in 17 min 29s (1049 sec)

We must wait 9 min 11 sec (551 sec) to cool down from 110°C to 60°C

Comparison from the previous test:

Compared to  test 2 It’s globally worth , we are waiting 42 secondes more to reach 60°C and 2 minutes 35 (155 sec) more to reach 110°C.

Comparison with the Initial test:

It’s a little bit better:
We reduced by 4% the heating time compared with test 1
We reduced by 12% (141 seconds the cooling time of the bed
We can see that the heatbed inertia is very similar to the initial test, and the overall heatbed performance is worth than the  test 2.
It seems that we need to heat up the cork insulator before the heating surface can increase it’s temperature.
However the cork can keep up the heat a little longer in the cooling phase.

 

 

Before Starting – Tools

Here is the list of the tools that you will require in order to assemble your 3D printer:

Tools provided inside the kit:

  1. 1Allen key set: Will help you to stighten the chassis screws, the Mk8 direct drive gear and the pulleys.
  2. 1 ceramique screw driver: Will be required when you are calibrating the current of the stepper motor drivers.
  3. Polyamide Tape: Will be required to prepare and protect your aluminum heatbed before printing.
  4. 1 Pen Sharpener: Will help you to sharpen the tip of the plastic filament in order to make it easier to push the filament up into the hot end input.
  5. 1 SD-Card: Already pre loaded with a lot of resources (Stl models of the plastic parts, softwares, firmwares, printing profiles, goodies…),You can also use it to print using the SD-Card reader located on the side of your 3D printer.

Tools not provided into the kit:

  1. 1 philips screw driver: Will help you with certain screws, such as heatbed wood screws, and screws used to fix 2 plastic parts together.
  2. 1 bubble level: Will help you to align the smooth rods with the chassis.
  3. 1 meter/40cm ruller: Will help you to place the different elements at the proper location on the chassis.
  4. 1 cutting pliers : Will help you to cut the colson collars, wires and so on.
  5. 1 scalpel with some blades: Usefull to clean up some plastic parts if needed.
  6. 1 wood file: To adjust/cleanup some plastic parts.