You need 3 M3x8 screws in order to attach the hot end heat-sink on the plastic holder
Use the screws from the back of the plastic part to hold the hot end in place.
1 M3x20 thermoplastic screw in to be installed on the hole behind the inductive probe support
Install you inductive probes
Finally, using 3 M3x10 screws, attach everything on the X carriage starting from the 2nd hole from the topE3D Chimera Dual extrusion upgrade
Extruders motors installation on the chassis
Extrusion motors are to be installed on the top of your chassis
You can attache them on the spool holders extrusions as follow.
The 2 pneumatic connectors are to be installed at the output of the extruders. They will hold the ptfe tubing later on.
In the kit you should have 2 extrusion gears. Make sure to install them both, 1 on each extruder. the goal here is to have the same extrusion gear on each extruder to make things easier later on.
You will need to calibrate your Control>Motion>Estep/mm after you update your firmware.
PTFE tubing installation
You can now install the ptfe Tubing between the hot end and the different extruders.
Important note: the left heating block corresponds to the extruder E0, and the right side heating block corresponds to the extruder E1
You need to cut the tube to length so that they are as short as possible and still guaranty smooth motion all over the print volume.
A good tip would be to make sure that the hot end nozzle is as low as possible (near touching the bed) before cutting the tube, in order to have an optimal tube length.
Nozzle alignment
You can now align your 2 nozzles:
Make sure that your X axis is as parallel to your heat bed as possible
Lower the hot end until 1 nozzle is touching the bed
Using the 2 small screws on the side of the heat-sink, you can adjust the 2nd nozzle to that it also touches the bed.
Electronic wiring
Here is the wiring diagram of the E3D Chimera dual extrusion upgrade
Extruder 2 (E1) installation
You first need to install the driver for your new extruder motor on the remaining driver slot.
Warning! Carefully note the driver orientation, the location of the small heat-sink and the small round potentiometer. They must be on the same orientation as the other drivers
Stepper motor driver calibration
You will now calibrate the stepper motor driver using a Ceramic screws driver (provided with Scalar L/ XLP)
Reminder on the Ceramic screw driver
This screw driver is electrically insulated.
It’s used to adjust potentiometers when powered
If you are using a standard non insulated screw driver you may damage your stepper driver.
For the calibration purpose you will also need a multi-meter with the 2V DC caliber selected (or similar).
Place the multi-meter black probe on the USB connector metallic shielding of the arduino board (blue) located below the Ramps board (red).
Place the red probe over the small round potentiometer located next to the heat sink
Measure the voltage, you want 0.850mV
Using the ceramic screw driver, turn the potentiometer clockwise to increase the voltage.
Turn counter clockwise to decrease the voltage.
Fan extender board installation
This board is used to replace the power transistor that you re-used for your second hot end heater cartridge. You will need it to power your PLA cooling fan.
Install it over the « servo » extension pins on the ramps 1.4 board (same for MKS gen boards)
This board need an external power supply in order to work.
You need to unplug the E3D 30mm cooling fan from the « Y » shape splitter cable. Connect another « Y » splitter cable to it and plug back the 30mm fan to one of the available end.
On the remaining end, connect the 20cm Female-Female extender cable.
The other end of the cable is to be connected to the 12V input of the fan extender board (here on the left)
Warning! take precautions with the polarities!
Now connect the PLA cooling blower fan on the D11 location on the fan extender board.
Firmware upgrade
You need to upgrade your firmware in order to take into account your 2nd extruder.
The upgrade procedure is located here
The compatible firmware are labeled « Dual extrusion Chimera »
If you 3D printer version / model is not listed, please make sure to contact us so that we can provide it.
Precautions after upgrading your firmware
Check that all your stepper motors are still turning in the proper direction. If not, just flip the motor connector on the electronic board side.
You will need to move the location or your existing X axis end stop. Push the hot end left until the right nozzle is located on the edge of the left side of the bed. The left nozzle must get outside of the bed area. Now push the end stop against the X carriage and you are set.
You will also need to adjust ZOffset before printing. The probe tip must be around 1-2mm above the nozzle tip.
This step allows to make sure that your bed is properly aligned to your chassis
This step takes into account that your pulleys are not tighten on their shafts. They must remain loose until the end of this alignment procedure.
Once you have checked that one side is aligned, you can tighten the red extrusion holders on the chassis on one side only.
Here we are tightening the right side. It will allow us to align the other side more easily
Slide the bed toward the back of the printer. The left axis should align itself once the bed has reach the end stop.
Hold the plastic support and tighten it on the chassis.
Now, slide again the bed toward the front of the machine this time. Once at the end, hold the plastic holder and tighten it on the chassis.
You can check that the bed is centered using the hotend. It should be able to move over the whole heatbed surface. You can adjust the position of the X end stop in order to fix potential centering issues.
Your heatbed should move freely back and forth with no issues linked to parallelism.
Also your bed should be properly aligned to your chassis now. You can check that by moving the bed edge to the front of your chassis. Using a ruler, you should see that the bed is parallel to the front of the chassis on both sides (right and left).
Tightening the Pulleys
Now that your bed is properly aligned and centered you can tigthen the 4 pulleys and you are done!
Once unzipped, browse inside the pronterface folder and launch « pronterface.exe » in « Administrator » mode via the right click context menu
Pronterface GUI is starting
ZOffset calibration
Select your printer COM port (mine is COM13)
Push the « Connect » button to start the connection.
If the connection is working properly a list of text and parameters should be displayed on the console output on the right side of the application.
The information we are interested in are:
Marlin firmware version (RC8 or newer)
ZOffset current value here at the bottom (here is -0.10mm)
In order to adjust Zoffset we are going to print a calibration part compatible with Scalar S and a 1.75mm filament.
Click on the « Load File » button
Then browse for the file « Scalar_S_Calibration_retraction.gcode » that you previously downloaded
Clock on the « Print » button
If you first layer is still too high you need to:
stop printing by pressing the « Off » button
Change the Zoffset using command M851 Zxxxx with xxxx being the new zoffset
Save the new value using the M500 command
Start a new print in order to check the effect of the new Zoffset
If it’s still not good, perform again step 2
Here we show how to change the Zoffset by typing command M851 Z-0.3 into the console.We send the command to the printer using the « Send » button located at the right of the text input field.
Note that:
In order to lower the nozzle on the first layer your ZOffset must be « Negative« .
Decrement the offset using steps of 0.1 or 0.2 (ex: go from -0.10 to -0.30)
If your nozzle seems to far away from the bed, consider decrementing of 0.5mm
Start again a new print using the « Restart » button
You have only 1 guide support on each side and a 300mm long extrusion profile between.
On each side you have 1x 16 teeth pulley
The belt goes inside the extrusion profile groove on top and is then tighten at the bottom under the carriage plate.
Here is a sliced view of the whole assembly.
The final goal is to have the belt in this state
Note that the Belt’s teeth are always facing the pulleys.
Take the belt and push it on one side, inside the top groove. The teeth must be facing downward.
Push it until it exists on the other side.
Once at the end, turn it so that it goes inside the bottom groove of the extrusion profile this time.
When the belt arrives at the middle of the carriage , it needs to go inside the middle hole of the bottom plate of the carriage.
Pull it enough so that you can clamp it with the dedicated plastic clamp. Make sure you have enough belt left so that you can tighten it later on.
Remove the 2 xM3X8 thermo screws that keeps the clamps screws, push the belt between and screw back the clamp.
On the other side, it’s similar, you need to push the belt inside the bottom part of the extrusion profile up to the middle of the Carriage. Then push it in the middle hole. Don’t clamp it yet.
Note, if one side of the belt is properly clamped you should be able to tighten the belt and perform the final clamping of the belt.
You can also tighten the belt on both sides if you feel the need for it. One side should be enough .
Here is a view of the bottom plate of the carriage.
The belt arrives near a kind of belt guide that will keep the belt centred.
The belt is then pushed inside the middle groove and is placed between the clamp and the bottom carriage
If needed we tighten the belt (Only if 1 side is properly clamped).
Tightening the Pulleys
Now that your belt is installed you Must screw your pulleys on both motor and idler side.
Keep it safe for future use.
When you will tighten the screw, the Tnut will perfom 1/4 turn inside the extrusion profile as shown on the picture.
