Archives de catégorie : Scalar S

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Upgrade double extrusion E3D chimera

Dual Extrusion upgrade – E3D Chimera

Upgrade Double Extrusion E3D Chimera

The kit contains:

  • 1 motor kit+ extruder + stepper motor driver
  • 2 meters of PTFE tubing
  • 1 screw set
  • 1 E3D Chimera kit
  • 1 fan extender board

E3D Chimera installation guide

You will find the installation guide on the E3D official website

Necessary plastic parts

You will find the needed plastic parts on thingiverse. they are compatible with Scalar 3D printers. You will need the following parts:

Hot end installation

You need 3 M3x8 screws in order to attach the hot end heat-sink on the plastic holder Use the screws from the back of the plastic part to hold the hot end in place. 1 M3x20 thermoplastic screw in to be installed on the hole behind the inductive probe support Install you inductive probes Finally, using 3 M3x10 screws, attach everything on the  X carriage starting from the 2nd hole from the top
E3D Chimera Dual extrusion upgrade

Extruders motors installation on the chassis

double extrusion E3D chimera, installation des moteurs d'extrusion
Extrusion motors are to be installed on the top of your chassis You can attache them on the spool holders extrusions as follow.
The 2 pneumatic connectors are to be installed at the output of the extruders. They will hold the ptfe tubing later on. In the kit you should have 2 extrusion gears. Make sure to install them both, 1 on each extruder. the goal here is to have the same extrusion gear on each extruder to make things easier later on. You will need to calibrate your Control>Motion>Estep/mm after you update your firmware.

PTFE tubing installation

You can now install the ptfe Tubing between the hot end and the different extruders. Important note: the left heating block corresponds to the extruder E0, and the right side heating block corresponds to the extruder E1 You need to cut the tube to length so that they are as short as possible and still guaranty smooth motion all over the print volume. A good tip would be to make sure that the hot end nozzle is as low as possible (near touching the bed) before cutting the tube, in order to have an optimal tube length.

Nozzle alignment

You can now align your 2 nozzles:
  • Make sure that your X axis is as parallel to your heat bed as possible
  • Lower the hot end until 1 nozzle is touching the bed
  • Using the 2 small screws on the side of the heat-sink, you can adjust the 2nd nozzle to that it also touches the bed.

Electronic wiring

Here is the wiring diagram of the E3D Chimera dual extrusion upgrade
Dual extrusion E3D Chimera Wiring diagram

Extruder 2 (E1) installation

You first need to install the driver for your new extruder motor on the remaining driver slot. Warning! Carefully note the driver orientation, the location of the small heat-sink and the small round potentiometer. They must be on the same orientation as the other drivers

Stepper motor driver calibration

You will now calibrate the stepper motor driver using a Ceramic screws driver (provided with Scalar L/ XLP)

Reminder on the Ceramic screw driver

This screw driver is electrically insulated. It’s used to adjust potentiometers when powered If you are using a standard non insulated screw driver you may damage your stepper driver.
tourne vis céramique
For the calibration purpose you will also need a multi-meter with the  2V DC caliber selected  (or similar).
  • Place the multi-meter black probe on the  USB connector metallic shielding of the arduino board (blue) located below the Ramps board (red).
  • Place the red probe over the small round potentiometer located next to the heat sink
  • Measure the voltage, you want 0.850mV
  • Using the ceramic screw driver, turn the potentiometer clockwise to increase the voltage.
  • Turn counter clockwise to decrease the voltage.

Fan extender board installation

RRD fan extender
This board is used to replace the power transistor that you re-used for your second hot end heater cartridge. You will need it to power your PLA cooling fan. Install it over the « servo » extension pins on the ramps 1.4 board (same for MKS gen boards)
This board need an external power supply in order to work. You need to unplug the E3D 30mm cooling fan from the « Y » shape splitter cable. Connect another « Y » splitter cable to it and plug back the 30mm fan to one of the available end. On the remaining end, connect the 20cm Female-Female extender cable. The other end of the cable is to be connected to the 12V input of the fan extender board (here on the left) Warning! take precautions with the polarities! Now connect the PLA cooling blower fan on the D11 location on the fan extender board.

Firmware upgrade

You need to upgrade your firmware in order to take into account your 2nd extruder. The upgrade procedure is located here The compatible firmware are labeled « Dual extrusion Chimera » If you 3D printer version / model is not listed, please make sure to contact us so that we can provide it.

Precautions after upgrading your firmware

  • Check that all your stepper motors are still turning in the proper direction. If not, just flip the motor connector on the electronic board side.
  • You will need to move the location or your existing X axis end stop. Push the hot end left until the right nozzle is located on the edge of the left side of the bed.  The left nozzle must get outside of the bed area. Now push the end stop against the X carriage and you are set.
  • You will also need to adjust ZOffset before printing. The probe tip must be around 1-2mm above the nozzle tip.

Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

This page is dedicated into the setup of the « Upgrade Z Trap » kit of your Scalar S 3D printer using Trap Lead Screws

The whole procedure is to be done at the back of the machine

The Kit  contains

  • 2 Trap lead screws
  • 2 Steel Trap Nut
  • 2 plastic parts

Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap

 

Unmounting the old system

We unlock the Z axis couplers from the leadscrew

 

Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap

Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

Remove the M8 lead screws

Remove the previous plastic part that holds the Z nut

This part has a small hole at the back in order to insert the small nut.

Installation of the upgraded parts

Replace the previous plastic parts using the new set. Notice that the center hole is larger than the previous version to properly fit the new Trap Nut

Insert the new Hex Nut into the dedicated Grooves

Insert the new Trap Screws

Tighten the Z Coupler

The setup is finished

Firmware / LCD changes to be done

In order for the firmware to take into account the pitch of your new set of lead screws, you will need to update 1 parameter inside your firmware

If you have a LCD screen

Go into the LCD menu: Control>Motion>ZStep/mm

  • Replace the previous value 2560 with 2133.3
  • Save your new settings by going into the menu  Control>Save Config

Things to take into consideration

Has you have changed the pitch of the screw of your Z axis, make sure your slicer is using a compatible Layer Height

Check the following article to get more information :

What is the best “layer height” for your printer

Scalar S – Dual drive system bed upgrade

Dual drive system upgradeThis page describes the installation of the Dual drive system bed upgrade for Scalar S 3D printer.

It postulates that you have the standard version of the Scalar S, and that you are upgrading your Y Axis.

This upgrade is a mechanical upgrade only.

It doesn’t require any firmware updates.

 

 

Bed disassembly

scalar S, upgrade plateau à double entraînement


Removing belts

In order to continue, it’s best that you remove the belt already installed.

Keep it close as you will need it very soon.


Y axis positioning


Rail assembly

Check the procedure here


Installation of the new axis


2 sides synchronization

Remove the black screw already in place.

Keep it safe for future use.

Take great care to the pulleys directions

Do not tighten the pulleys


Tighten the stabilization screws

These screws are here to stabilize the extrusion profile, to prevent it from rotating.

Back view of the printer, we install the M5x35 black screws that we kept from earlier.


New lower plate installation


Heat plate installation


Belts installation

Follow this procedure


Bed alignment

This step allows to make sure that your bed is properly aligned to your chassis

This step takes into account that your pulleys are not tighten on their shafts. They must remain loose until the end of this alignment procedure.

Once you have checked that one side is aligned, you can tighten the red extrusion holders on the chassis on one side only.

Here we are tightening the right side. It will allow us to align the other side more easily

 

Slide the bed toward the back of the printer. The left axis should align itself once the bed has reach the end stop.

Hold the plastic support and tighten it on the chassis.

Now, slide again the bed toward the front of the machine this time. Once at the end, hold the plastic holder and tighten it on the chassis.

 

You can check that the bed is centered using the hotend. It should be able to move over the whole heatbed surface. You can adjust the position of the X end stop in order to fix potential centering issues.

Your heatbed should move freely back and forth with no issues linked to parallelism.

Also your bed should be properly aligned to your chassis now. You can check that by moving the bed edge to the front of your chassis. Using a ruler, you should see that the bed is parallel to the front of the chassis on both sides (right and left).


Tightening the Pulleys

Now that your bed is properly aligned and centered you can tigthen the 4 pulleys  and you are done!

ZOffset calibration without LCD screen

This article present you the procedure on how to set your ZOffset without any LCD screeen on your Scalar S 3D Printer.

This article presumes that you are using Marlin firmware (RC8 or newer) and a Scalar S 3D printer without LCD screen.

Requirements

Starting Pronterface

Once unzipped, browse inside the pronterface folder and launch « pronterface.exe » in « Administrator » mode via the right click context menu

Pronterface GUI is starting

ZOffset calibration

Select your printer COM port (mine is COM13)

Push the « Connect » button to start the connection.

If the connection is working properly a list of text and parameters should be displayed on the console output on the right side of the application.

The information we are interested in are:

  • Marlin firmware version (RC8 or newer)
  • ZOffset current value here at the bottom (here is -0.10mm)

In order to adjust Zoffset we are going to print a calibration part compatible with Scalar S and a 1.75mm filament.

Click on the  « Load File » button

Then browse for the file « Scalar_S_Calibration_retraction.gcode » that you previously downloaded

Clock on the « Print » button

If you first layer is still too high you need to:

  1. stop printing by pressing the « Off » button
  2. Change the Zoffset using command M851 Zxxxx with xxxx being the new zoffset
  3. Save the new value using the  M500 command
  4. Start a new print in order to check the effect of the new Zoffset
  5. If it’s still not good, perform again step 2

Here we show how to change the Zoffset by typing command M851 Z-0.3 into the console.We send the command to the printer using the « Send » button located at the right of the text input field.

Note that:

  • In order to lower the nozzle on the first layer your ZOffset must be « Negative« .
  • Decrement the offset using steps of 0.1 or 0.2 (ex: go from -0.10 to -0.30)
  • If your nozzle seems to far away from the bed, consider decrementing of 0.5mm

pronterface auto bed leveling marlin ZOffset

Start again a new print using the « Restart » button

Save your new Zoffset using command M500

Scalar S – Chassis Assembly

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S

Check the PDF 3D to get a global view of the assembled chassis of the Scalar S

Building the chassis

  • 3 2020 40cm extrusion profiles
  • 2 v-slot Profiles2020 40cm (for Z Axis)
  • 2 Extrusions profiles 2020 30cm
  • 6 small squares
  • 2 Double squares
  • 20 pcs M4x8 screws
  • 20 Pcs M4 TNuts

Use 6 small squares and pre mount the screws and TNuts

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S


Do the same for the double squares

Châssis Scalar S


Tip

Move the squares on the corners. Yhe Tnut must be aligned with the extrusion profile groove.

Once properly aligned the TNuts will properly fit the groove and the square will naturally take it’s place

 

 

 


When you will tighten the screw, the Tnut will perfom 1/4 turn inside the extrusion profile as shown on the picture.

Check carefully that the TNut has performed the 1/4 turn so it’s properly locked with with extrusion.

 

Make sure the Tnut is properly positioned before finalizing your build.

When you unscrew the screws, the TNut must unlock and perform 1/4 turn on the other side. This will allows you to remove the square and the nut.


Chassis base

For the base of the chassis, you will need to use only 2020 standard extrusion profiles. Keep the Vslot (often black) extrusions for later.


Z Axis

The extrusions on both sides (here on the right and on the left) Are VSlots (often black)

The top extrusion profile is standard 2020 extrusion


Assembling both parts

Top viewChâssis Scalar S


Finish

List of parts

  • 6 end caps

use the 6 end caps as shown on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Start to push them by hand slightly.

 

 

 

 


Push them up to the end. use some force if needed. You may require an hammer to push them completely in some cases.

 

 

 


 

Scalar S: Belt installation under the bed

bed installation under the bed

In this section you will need:

  • Scalar S: 0.9 meters GT2 belt for 300mm VSlots

Take as a reference one side of the guide

You have only 1 guide support on each side and a 300mm long extrusion profile between.

On each side you have 1x 16 teeth pulley

The belt goes inside the extrusion profile groove on top and is then tighten at the bottom under the carriage plate.

Here is a sliced view of the whole assembly.

belt installation under the bed

The final goal is to have the belt in this state

Note that the Belt’s teeth are always facing the pulleys.

Take the belt and push it on one side, inside the top groove. The teeth must be facing downward.

Push it until it exists on the other side.

Once at the end, turn it so that it goes inside the bottom groove of the extrusion profile this time.

When the belt arrives at the middle of the carriage , it needs to go inside the middle hole of the bottom plate of the carriage.

Pull it enough so that you can clamp it with the dedicated plastic clamp. Make sure you have enough belt left so that you can tighten it later on.

Remove the 2 xM3X8 thermo screws that keeps the clamps screws, push the belt between and screw back the clamp.

On the other side, it’s similar, you need to push the belt inside the bottom part of the extrusion profile up to the middle of the Carriage. Then push it in the middle hole. Don’t clamp it yet.

Note, if one side of the belt is properly clamped you should be able to tighten the belt and perform the final clamping of the belt.

You can also tighten the belt on both sides if you feel the need for it. One side should be enough .

Here is a view of the bottom plate of the carriage.

The belt arrives near a kind of belt guide that will keep the belt centred.

The belt is then pushed inside the middle groove and is placed between the clamp and the bottom carriage

If needed we tighten the belt (Only if 1 side is properly clamped).

 

Tightening the Pulleys

 

Now that your belt is installed you Must screw your pulleys on both motor and idler side.

Installation of PTFE liner inside E3D lite hot end

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeThe E3D Lite hot end is provided with a PTFE liner

It is destined to be inserted all the way inside the hot end.

it allows the filament to be properly guided inside the hot end. Also it reduces all the friction of the filament with the hot end body.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeA quick connector is available to prevent the liner from going out.

To remove the liner, just push the connector down and pull the liner at the same time.

 

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeOnce inside you need to remove the excess of liner

For Scalar S, the total length of the tube must be7.9cm.

It will allow the liner to reach the extrusion gear inside the extruder.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeThe adaptor part must then be placed on top and go through the left over liner.

The 4 fixation holesmust be aligned with the hot end support holes at the top.

Please note the position of the adaptor shaped as a bat.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfe