Depending on your kit you should have one of these Jaws versions
Click on the jaws corresponding to your kit.
This page describes the different steps required to install the Dual Y stepper motor upgrade (available here)
This upgrade is compatible with Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium 3d printers.
This upgrade intends to add a 2nd stepper motor on the existing Y Axis.
It allows to have 1 stepper motor at the front and at the back of the print surface.
Both motors are turning on the same direction
More over they are electrically links together on the same stepper driver.
This allows them to be perfectly in sync.
Both stepper motors are driving the belts in both directions.
The print surface is always perfectly pulled on both directions.
The electric wiring is performed over the existing installation
You need to :
This page is dedicated into the setup of the « Upgrade Z Trap » kit of your Scalar S 3D printer using Trap Lead Screws
The whole procedure is to be done at the back of the machine
We unlock the Z axis couplers from the leadscrew
Remove the M8 lead screws
Remove the previous plastic part that holds the Z nut
This part has a small hole at the back in order to insert the small nut.
Replace the previous plastic parts using the new set. Notice that the center hole is larger than the previous version to properly fit the new Trap Nut
Insert the new Hex Nut into the dedicated Grooves
Insert the new Trap Screws
Tighten the Z Coupler
The setup is finished
In order for the firmware to take into account the pitch of your new set of lead screws, you will need to update 1 parameter inside your firmware
Go into the LCD menu: Control>Motion>ZStep/mm
Has you have changed the pitch of the screw of your Z axis, make sure your slicer is using a compatible Layer Height
Check the following article to get more information :
The wiring on the electronic board is similar to the previous version of this probe.
On this 2nd schematic, ou will find a schematic closer to what is provided within the kit. With the induction probe, the hot end fan ad the auxiliary blower fan.
On the induction probe, it is provided with 3 wires. 2 (red and black) are connected to a Dupont 2 pin connector, and 1 (red) left alone with a node here, is the power supply of the probe.
This schematic corresponds to the kits provided after 17th October 2016.
This kit is provided with a 5V proximity sensors. The blue wire is the ground wire. The black wire is the signal wire and the brown wire is the +5V powe wire.
If your probe is not provided with a 3pin black connector, please look at the other schematics.
A Y shape wire extender is also provided. It’s directly connected to the 12V power output of the Ramps board and will help you to connect the hot end fan power supply to the +12V. It will also be used to connect the 80mm 12V fan dedicated to cool down your electronics.
You should be able to recognize the other components now. The wire’s color on the stepper motors are only for information, the one provided might have a completely different set of colors. The one on the power terminals are real colors with the red wire corresponding to +12V and the black wire to the ground wire (0V)
For information purpose here is the official schematic of the Ramps 1.4 board. It is the same you will find on the official reprap wiki .
This schematic give you more data on all the pin out and also on the optional headers.
Meaning that the big part with the terminals can be removed from it’s base.
The picture here shows the 2 different parts:
If you want compare directly with the previous schematic, you will need to make a 180° rotation as the power terminals are on the right on this picture and on the left on the previous schematic
For the standalone end stop holder (you might not have it, it has been replaced by the one below.)
Let’s start with the cables located on the Y axis, under the heat bed.
Also take 2 « long » U shaped clips and 1 cable tie.
For Integrated end stop, it’s very easy, the picture shows you how the wires are placed.
You should have 2 wires of the end stop and 4 for the stepper motor.
Bring them all together and secure them inside the aluminum profile slot located just behind the stepper motor support
With 2 long plastic clips, secure the wires. Using short clips is not advised because they will raise the chassis of a few millimeters on this side only breaking the overall equilibrium. Use the « long » clips to keep the main part of the clip oriented toward the top of the machine.
This will secure the wires on the same location.
Place the Y axis end stop connector on it’s place, please read the following to the end before doing anything .
On the picture, the whole set of pins located on the lower left side is dedicated to end stops.
There are 3 rows pins from top to bottom.
The first row is linked to the +5V power (provided from the arduino itself).
The second row is linked to the Ground (+0V)
The last row is linked directly to the arduino.
Attention: Never connect the top row with the middle row because you will short circuit the +5V generated by the arduino when the end stop will close causing. If for some reason you happen to do this you will cause some irreversible damages to the arduino power supply and the electronics might not work anymore afterward.
Important: All the end stop MUST be connected on the bottom and middle row.
To complete the explanation, you can connect up to 6 end stop on a 3d printer. for each axis you can have 2 end stops, one for MIN and the other one for MAX position.
The firmware allows to use only MIN end stops and will handle by software the one for MAX position.
So you can reduce the amount of end stops to 3 end stops.
Each columns dedicated to 1 specific end stop.
Each axis is grouped by 2 columns side by side.
Starting from the right of the picture you will get the following :
You will connect the Y axis MIN end stop at the bottom of the 3rd column from the right..
Locate it’s connector, you will now connect it to the electronic board.
You will find 6 pins on the same row, with T0, T1, T2 marking just below.
So, connect the heat bed thermistor on the 3rd and 4th pin from the right, which should correspond to T1
You will find the markings indicating what stepper motor the driver is dedicated to.
On the top row, you have 3 motor drivers side by side. From right to left you have the dedicated axis:
On the 2nd row you have here on the picture only 1 stepper driver and a free space for a 5th stepper driver.
Those are dedicated to Extruders, the part of the printer that pushes the plastic to the hot end.
From right to left:
Now connect the Y axis motor cable on the middle connector of the first row.
Very important: The stepper drivers don’t support to be powered on without any motor attached to them. doing this will definitely damage the component.
Please make sure to have at least 1 stepper motor connected to each stepper drivers mounted on the electronic board!
If you are using only 4 axis (X, Y , Z, and E0) and you happen to have 5 stepper drivers, mount only 4 of them and keep the 5th one in it’s packaging. It can be of some use as spare part if one of the drivers is failing or damaged.
You may want to know that 1 single stepper driver can drive 2 stepper motor at once.
Connect this motor on one of the 2 rows.
Start by taking a black cable provided with the static relay.
(Scalar M) You won’t have any static relay on Scalar M, so take the 2 power wires coming from the heat bed.
Each terminal connector of this column is identified by a small marking « + » that identifies the +12V output.
As the wire you have was connected on the « – » of the static relay, locate the terminal connector with « D8 » marking and connect the wire on the connector below the « + » marking. It should be the 2nd connector starting from the top.
(Scalar M) Take any one the 2 silicon heater power wire and plug it to the same terminal (the silicone heater has no polarity, so there is no ‘+’ and no « -« )
(Scalar M) take the left over heat bed power wire and plug it at in this same terminal.
On the XL heat bed, as it’s 220V the heat bed is provided with a Ground wire. It’s the one with Yellow and green color.
The purpose of this wire is to link the metallic chassis of your printer to the ground.
Indeed, if the 220V power wire gets broken for any reason and touches the chassis, your electric panel should crack up.
In order to have a proper connection, you need to connect it to any M6 screw on your chassis.
You can use 2 « long » clips to help you maintain the wires inside the slots as shown on the picture.
You might have to remove and replace the clips previously attached on the aluminum profile.
Keep in mind that those wires will have to follow the up down movement of the X axis.
Take the 2 sets of wires, 1 with 4 wires and the other one with 2 wires. As they will move at the same time, it’s interesting to keep them together and check that there are enough length for them to go up and down the Z axis.
Here our carriage is located at the bottom and we roughly evaluate the length of wire we need for it to move up. mark or keep this length (here with our hand on top)
Secure them with a clips at the level marked by your hand earlier corresponding to the length needed to move all along the Z axis.
Place them on the middle of the top horizontal aluminum profile.
Make sure to have enough free wire for the hot end to move up and down and also in each corners.
They will help you to keep all the wires in place in the aluminum profile slots.
You can let free the wires on the side. We will handle them later on.
We advise you to twirl the 4 cables together as it allows to easily keep them in place inside the aluminum slots. It also prevent from making any unwanted nodes with other cables later on.
Locate and take the connector from the other Z axis stepper motor that we previously placed inside the vertical aluminum profile. It should exit right next to the power supply if we refer to the previous wiring we did on this part.
You can use the already in place clips to secure the remaining of the wire up to the end.
This one must go behind the power supply and follow the sale slot used for the previous Z axis connector.
Here on the second row of stepper drivers on the right.
The clips should be able to keep all the cables into place.
The whole set has polarity so make sure you connect the + output from the power supply to the + input of the board and the same goes for the Ground (minus) output of the power supply to the minus input of the board « + »-> »+ » and « – » -> « -« .
On this picture the blue cables are the « +12V » output of the power supply (yours should be red) and the brown wires are the Ground output of the power supply (yours should be black).
In order to emphasize the polarity of each terminal we added some sticker on the photo .
The ground cables (here in brown, yours in black) are to be connected to the « – » terminals.
The +12v power cables (here in blue, yours in red) should be connected on the other terminals marked with « + » sign.
The red wire corresponding to the +12V should be connected to the terminal with « + » marking (here the 3rd on starting from the top).
Connect the remaining black wire corresponding to the « – » (ground) just below.
On the recent kits this fan might already be provided with a 2 pin connector
If your ramps board is provided with a « Y » shape wire extender then use it to connect the fan connector to the +12V of your ramps board.
The fan in front should be On all the time, so it will be connected to the +12V input of the board.
If you have the « Y » shaped wire extender, conserder using it . Use the following step only as an alternative solution to connect the hot end fan to the 12V Power supply.
The red wire (+12V) is to be connected on the same terminal power inputs marked with « + » along side the wires coming from the power supply.
Here we are using the 2nd green terminal starting from the top.
The black wire for the ground is to be connected to the terminal above with the « – » marking
Here the screw diver shows where it’s located.
They can be any color (often red or blue depending on the power of the heater cartridge).
The heater cartridge is mainly a resistive element so it has no polarity at all and wires have no + or -, so you can connect them as you want on the last terminals at the bottom.
This stand alone wire is to be connected on the « + » marking of the green power input terminals. Take the one you want, here for a better repartitions, we propose to connect it to the green terminal at the very bottom.
Note: On certain kits the induction prob is provided with a 2 pin dupont connector (black) with 1 red and 1 black wire.
Warning, This connector has a polarity!
The 2 wires must always be connected on the last 2 rows of pin header with the void unconnected pin left alone for the 1 row.
On the version with 2 pin dupont connector, it must also be connector on the 2 last rows.
The green or red wire corresponds to the probe signal, so it must be connected to the signal dedicated line that is the last row.
The black wire is the ground of the probe. It must be connected to the middle row.
It postulates that you have the standard version of the Scalar S, and that you are upgrading your Y Axis.
This upgrade is a mechanical upgrade only.
It doesn’t require any firmware updates.
In order to continue, it’s best that you remove the belt already installed.
Keep it close as you will need it very soon.
Remove the black screw already in place.
Keep it safe for future use.
Take great care to the pulleys directions
Do not tighten the pulleys
These screws are here to stabilize the extrusion profile, to prevent it from rotating.
Back view of the printer, we install the M5x35 black screws that we kept from earlier.
This step allows to make sure that your bed is properly aligned to your chassis
This step takes into account that your pulleys are not tighten on their shafts. They must remain loose until the end of this alignment procedure.
Once you have checked that one side is aligned, you can tighten the red extrusion holders on the chassis on one side only.
Here we are tightening the right side. It will allow us to align the other side more easily
Hold the plastic support and tighten it on the chassis.
Now, slide again the bed toward the front of the machine this time. Once at the end, hold the plastic holder and tighten it on the chassis.
You can check that the bed is centered using the hotend. It should be able to move over the whole heatbed surface. You can adjust the position of the X end stop in order to fix potential centering issues.
Your heatbed should move freely back and forth with no issues linked to parallelism.
Also your bed should be properly aligned to your chassis now. You can check that by moving the bed edge to the front of your chassis. Using a ruler, you should see that the bed is parallel to the front of the chassis on both sides (right and left).
Now that your bed is properly aligned and centered you can tigthen the 4 pulleys and you are done!
This article present you the procedure on how to set your ZOffset without any LCD screeen on your Scalar S 3D Printer.
This article presumes that you are using Marlin firmware (RC8 or newer) and a Scalar S 3D printer without LCD screen.
Once unzipped, browse inside the pronterface folder and launch « pronterface.exe » in « Administrator » mode via the right click context menu
Pronterface GUI is starting
Select your printer COM port (mine is COM13)
Push the « Connect » button to start the connection.
If the connection is working properly a list of text and parameters should be displayed on the console output on the right side of the application.
The information we are interested in are:
In order to adjust Zoffset we are going to print a calibration part compatible with Scalar S and a 1.75mm filament.
Click on the « Load File » button
Then browse for the file « Scalar_S_Calibration_retraction.gcode » that you previously downloaded
Clock on the « Print » button
If you first layer is still too high you need to:
Here we show how to change the Zoffset by typing command M851 Z-0.3 into the console.We send the command to the printer using the « Send » button located at the right of the text input field.
Start again a new print using the « Restart » button
Save your new Zoffset using command M500
The gt 2 pulleys on the pictures here are show only as an information. You will install them later on.
Take the plastic part
Use 2x625ZZ bearings
The GT 2 pulley will then come between the 2 bearings.
In order to align later on the belt, the pulley will need to be laid against 1 of the bearings. In order to keep the symetric aspect of this part, you will get a small void between the other side of the pulley and the other bearing.
Repeat the same logic on the 2 other parts. You should get 3 identical parts.
The procedure is the same here
The only difference is the special location where you need to install the end stop
Warning, this end stop holder has been updated starting Avril 2017
Here is the new version
Again the pulleys cann be held right now and are shown only for further comprehension
The final phase here is to prepare all the M6X12mm screws and their Tnuts that we will use later on.
You will need :
The side holes on the plastic parts are used to install these screws and Tnuts
Check the PDF 3D to get a global view of the assembled chassis of the Scalar S
Use 6 small squares and pre mount the screws and TNuts
Do the same for the double squares
Move the squares on the corners. Yhe Tnut must be aligned with the extrusion profile groove.
When you will tighten the screw, the Tnut will perfom 1/4 turn inside the extrusion profile as shown on the picture.
Check carefully that the TNut has performed the 1/4 turn so it’s properly locked with with extrusion.
When you unscrew the screws, the TNut must unlock and perform 1/4 turn on the other side. This will allows you to remove the square and the nut.
For the base of the chassis, you will need to use only 2020 standard extrusion profiles. Keep the Vslot (often black) extrusions for later.
The extrusions on both sides (here on the right and on the left) Are VSlots (often black)
In this section you will need:
Take as a reference one side of the guide
You have only 1 guide support on each side and a 300mm long extrusion profile between.
On each side you have 1x 16 teeth pulley
The belt goes inside the extrusion profile groove on top and is then tighten at the bottom under the carriage plate.
Here is a sliced view of the whole assembly.
The final goal is to have the belt in this state
Note that the Belt’s teeth are always facing the pulleys.
Take the belt and push it on one side, inside the top groove. The teeth must be facing downward.
Push it until it exists on the other side.
Once at the end, turn it so that it goes inside the bottom groove of the extrusion profile this time.
When the belt arrives at the middle of the carriage , it needs to go inside the middle hole of the bottom plate of the carriage.
Pull it enough so that you can clamp it with the dedicated plastic clamp. Make sure you have enough belt left so that you can tighten it later on.
Remove the 2 xM3X8 thermo screws that keeps the clamps screws, push the belt between and screw back the clamp.
On the other side, it’s similar, you need to push the belt inside the bottom part of the extrusion profile up to the middle of the Carriage. Then push it in the middle hole. Don’t clamp it yet.
Note, if one side of the belt is properly clamped you should be able to tighten the belt and perform the final clamping of the belt.
You can also tighten the belt on both sides if you feel the need for it. One side should be enough .
The belt arrives near a kind of belt guide that will keep the belt centred.
The belt is then pushed inside the middle groove and is placed between the clamp and the bottom carriage
If needed we tighten the belt (Only if 1 side is properly clamped).
Now that your belt is installed you Must screw your pulleys on both motor and idler side.
It is destined to be inserted all the way inside the hot end.
it allows the filament to be properly guided inside the hot end. Also it reduces all the friction of the filament with the hot end body.
To remove the liner, just push the connector down and pull the liner at the same time.
For Scalar S, the total length of the tube must be7.9cm.
It will allow the liner to reach the extrusion gear inside the extruder.
The 4 fixation holesmust be aligned with the hot end support holes at the top.
Please note the position of the adaptor shaped as a bat.