Archives de catégorie : Imprimante Scalar

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Scalar Upgrade – Dual Y motors

This page describes the different steps required to install the Dual Y stepper motor upgrade (available here)

This upgrade is compatible with Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium 3d printers.

The purpose of this upgrade

This upgrade intends to add a 2nd stepper motor on the existing Y Axis.

It allows to have 1 stepper motor at the front and at the back of the print surface.

Both motors are turning on the same direction

More over they are electrically links together on the same stepper driver.

This allows them to be perfectly in sync.

Both stepper motors are driving the belts in both directions.

The print surface is always perfectly pulled on both directions.

Upgrade installation

upgrade Dual Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

Stepper motor wires installation

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

Electric wiring

Upgrade DUAL Y

The electric wiring is performed over the existing installation

You need to :

  1. Disconnect the existing Y axis stepper motor wire. Make sure to note down the location of each wire color.
  2. Install the Y shaped splitter cable on the Y axis stepper motor output. A good idea is to install the wire so that the red wire is pointing in the same direction as the previous motor wire.
  3. Connect the original Y axis motor wire on one of the 2 male connectors on the Y  splitter cable.
  4. Connect the new stepper motor wire on the remaining 4 pins connector.
  5. Using your LCD screen, move your Y axis and check that both motors are turning the same way. If not, just invert the newly installed motor cable and check again.
  6. Now both steppers should run on the same direction. Check that when moving in positive direction the Y axis is going away from the Y axis end stop. If not you will need to invert the Y slipper cable on the ramps side.
  7. The setup is finished.

 

Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

This page is dedicated into the setup of the « Upgrade Z Trap » kit of your Scalar S 3D printer using Trap Lead Screws

The whole procedure is to be done at the back of the machine

The Kit  contains

  • 2 Trap lead screws
  • 2 Steel Trap Nut
  • 2 plastic parts

Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap

 

Unmounting the old system

We unlock the Z axis couplers from the leadscrew

 

Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap

Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

Remove the M8 lead screws

Remove the previous plastic part that holds the Z nut

This part has a small hole at the back in order to insert the small nut.

Installation of the upgraded parts

Replace the previous plastic parts using the new set. Notice that the center hole is larger than the previous version to properly fit the new Trap Nut

Insert the new Hex Nut into the dedicated Grooves

Insert the new Trap Screws

Tighten the Z Coupler

The setup is finished

Firmware / LCD changes to be done

In order for the firmware to take into account the pitch of your new set of lead screws, you will need to update 1 parameter inside your firmware

If you have a LCD screen

Go into the LCD menu: Control>Motion>ZStep/mm

  • Replace the previous value 2560 with 2133.3
  • Save your new settings by going into the menu  Control>Save Config

Things to take into consideration

Has you have changed the pitch of the screw of your Z axis, make sure your slicer is using a compatible Layer Height

Check the following article to get more information :

What is the best “layer height” for your printer

Electronic Wiring – Scalar M – XL

Electronic Wiring on Ramps 1.4 board

5V or12V probe? Careful choose your schematic

  • 12V probe has 1 Dupont 2 pins connector and 1 red wire left over
    • Red wire left over: +12V
    • Black wire: 0V- Ground
    • Red wire in connector: Signal.

 

 

 

 

Here is the wiring diagram to use


  • 5V probe has only 1 Dupont connector with 3 pins.
    • Brown wire (+5V)
    • Blue wire (0V – GND)
    • Black wire (Signal)

 

  • 5V probe can be provided with and extender with different colors
    • Red wire (+5V)
    • Black wire (0V – GND)
    • White wire (Signal)

The wiring on the electronic board is similar to the previous version of this probe.

  • The Red wire corresponds to the Brown wire
  • The Black wire corresponds to the Blue Wire
  • The White wire corresponds to the Black wire

Here is the wiring diagram to use


 

 

Schematic for 12V proximity sensor

Electronic wiring on Ramps 1.4

On this 2nd schematic, ou will find a schematic closer to what is provided within the kit. With the induction probe, the hot end fan ad the auxiliary blower fan.

On the induction probe, it is provided with 3 wires. 2 (red and black) are connected to a Dupont 2 pin connector, and 1 (red) left alone with a node here, is the power supply of the probe.

Schematic for 5V proximity sensor

Brachement électronique de la carte Ramps 1.4 avec sonde à inductance 5V

This schematic corresponds to the kits provided after 17th October 2016.

This kit is provided with a 5V proximity sensors. The blue wire is the ground wire. The black wire is the signal wire and the brown wire is the +5V powe wire.

If your probe is not provided with a 3pin black connector, please look at the other schematics.

A Y shape wire extender is also provided. It’s directly connected to the 12V power output of the Ramps board and will help you to connect the hot end fan power supply to the +12V. It will also be used to connect the 80mm 12V fan dedicated to cool down your electronics.

 

You should be able to recognize the other components now. The wire’s color on the stepper motors are only for information, the one provided might have a completely different set of colors. The one on the power terminals are real colors with the red wire corresponding to +12V and the black wire to the ground wire (0V)

 


Ramps 1.4 Schematic

Ramps 1.4 Schematic

For information purpose here is the official schematic of the Ramps 1.4 board. It is the same you will find on the official reprap wiki .

This schematic give you more data on all the pin out and also on the optional headers.

 

 

A word about the Big green power terminal

Ramps 1.4 power terminalsYou need to understand that the Green power connector on the left of the schematic picture is a Plug connector,

Meaning that the big part with the terminals can be removed from it’s base.

The picture here shows the 2 different parts:

  • On the left the terminal part that can be removed/unplugged
  • On the middle the fixed part, soldered on the ramps board
  • On the right side, the 2 parts attached together.

 


 

As visual support here is a picture of the electronic board free from any cables.

If you want compare directly with the previous schematic, you will need to make a 180° rotation as the power terminals are on the right on this picture and on the left on the previous schematic

 

 


For the standalone end stop holder (you might not have it, it has been replaced by the one below.)

Let’s start with the cables located on the Y axis, under the heat bed.

Also take 2 « long » U shaped clips and 1 cable tie.

 

For Integrated end stop, it’s very easy, the picture shows you how the wires are placed.

 

 

 

 

 


Pass all the wire inside the chassis.

You should have 2 wires of the end stop and 4 for the stepper motor.

Bring them all together and secure them inside the aluminum profile slot located just behind the stepper motor support

 


View from inside of the machine, the wires can easily fit inside the aluminum profile slot .

With 2 long plastic clips, secure the wires. Using short clips is not advised because they will raise the chassis of a few millimeters on this side only breaking the overall equilibrium. Use the « long » clips to keep the main part of the clip oriented toward the top of the machine.

 


(Scalar XL) In the corner of the chassis is located the SSR static relay. Attach the wires with a cable tie with the wires from the heat bed.

This will secure the wires on the same location.

 

 

 


 

(Scalar XL) Tighten the cable tie.

 

 

 

 

 


Take the end stop connector.

 

 

 

 


At any steps, feel free to go back to the official schematic if you have any doubt about the picture or if it’s not clear.

Place the Y axis end stop connector on it’s place, please read the following to the end before doing anything .

On the picture, the whole set of pins located on the lower left side is dedicated to end stops.

There are 3 rows pins from top to bottom.

The first row is linked to the +5V power (provided from the arduino itself).

The second row is linked to the Ground (+0V)

The last row is linked directly to the arduino.

Attention: Never connect the top row with the middle row because you will short circuit the +5V generated by the arduino when the end stop will close causing. If for some reason you happen to do this you will cause some irreversible damages to the arduino power supply and the electronics might not work anymore afterward.

Important: All the end stop MUST be connected on the bottom and middle row.

To complete the explanation, you can connect up to 6 end stop on a 3d printer. for each axis you can have 2 end stops, one for MIN and the other one for MAX position.

The firmware allows to use only MIN end stops and will handle by software the one for MAX position.

So you can reduce the amount of end stops to 3 end stops.

Each columns dedicated to 1 specific end stop.

Each axis is grouped by 2 columns side by side.

Starting from the right of the picture you will get the following :

  1. X MIN
  2. X MAX
  3. Y MIN
  4. Y MAX
  5. Z MIN
  6. Z MAX

You will connect the Y axis MIN end stop at the bottom of the 3rd column from the right..


Now let’s connect the heat bed thermistor connector located under the heat bed.

Locate it’s connector, you will now connect it to the electronic board.

 

 

 


The thermistor dedicated input pins are located just above the one dedicated for end stops.

You will find 6 pins on the same row, with T0, T1, T2 marking just below.

  1. T0 is for the hot end thermistor.
  2. T1 is for the heat bed thermistor
  3. T2 is an optional thermistor for a possible 2nd hot end.

So, connect the heat bed thermistor on the 3rd and 4th pin from the right, which should correspond to T1


Now take the Y axis stepper motor connector .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The dedicated pins for stepper motors are located below each stepper motor drivers, the small components with the heat sink.

You will find the markings indicating what stepper motor the driver is dedicated to.

On the top row, you have 3 motor drivers side by side. From right to left you have the dedicated axis:

  1. Axe X (marked X)
  2. Axe Y (marked Y)
  3. Axe Z (marked Z)

On the 2nd row you have here on the picture only 1 stepper driver and a free space for a 5th stepper driver.

Those are dedicated to Extruders, the part of the printer that pushes the plastic to the hot end.

From right to left:

  1. Extrudeur 0 (marked E0)
  2. Extrudeur 1 (marked E1)

Now connect the Y axis motor cable on the middle connector of the first row.

Very important: The stepper drivers don’t support to be powered on without any motor attached to them. doing this will definitely damage the component.

Please make sure to have at least 1 stepper motor connected to each stepper drivers mounted on the electronic board!

If you are using only 4 axis (X, Y , Z, and E0) and you happen to have 5 stepper drivers, mount only 4 of them and keep the 5th one in it’s packaging. It can be of some use as spare part if one of the drivers is failing or damaged.


Now let’s look at X axis stepper motor connector

 

 

 

 


This one is to be connected on the right of the Y Axis motor on the first row.

 

 

 

 


Now take the X axis end stop

 

 

 

 

 


It has to be connected at the bottom of the first Column starting from the right of the end stop dedicated header pins.

 

 

 


Still on the same machine’s side, you should have the Z axis motor connector left.

 

 

 

 

 


The Z axis has 2 dedicated pin header’s rows located under the dedicated Z axis stepper motor driver.

You may want to know that 1 single stepper driver can drive 2 stepper motor at once.

Connect this motor on one of the 2 rows.

 


(Scalar XL) Still on the same side of the machine, you can connect the static relay to the electronic board.

Start by taking a black cable provided with the static relay.

 

 

 


(Scalar XL) Screw it on the terminal connector with the «  » marking and the number « 4 »

(Scalar M) You won’t have any static relay on Scalar M, so take the 2 power wires coming from the heat bed.

 

 

 


(Scalar XL) The other side of the cable is to be connected on the set of power terminals (here blue) with « D8 » marking.

Each terminal connector of this column is identified by a small marking « + » that identifies the +12V output.

As the wire you have was connected on the « – » of the static relay, locate the terminal connector with « D8 » marking and connect the wire on the connector below the « + » marking. It should be the 2nd connector starting from the top.

(Scalar M) Take any one the 2 silicon heater power wire and plug it to the same terminal (the silicone heater has no polarity, so there is no ‘+’ and no « -« )

 


On the static relay side, connect now the 2nd wire (it should be red).

 

 

 


Screw it on the last remaining terminal with the « + » marking and identified by the number « 3« .

 

 

 

 


(Scalar XL) Connect the other side of the wire on the power terminal blocks, on the very first connector starting from the top, just above the previous wire you connected.

(Scalar M) take the left over heat bed power wire and plug it at in this same terminal.

 


Scalar XL:

On the XL heat bed, as it’s 220V the heat bed is provided with a Ground wire. It’s the one with Yellow and green color.

 

The purpose of this wire is to link the metallic chassis of your printer to the ground.

Indeed, if the 220V power wire gets broken for any reason and touches the chassis, your electric panel should crack up.

In order to have a proper connection, you need to connect it to any M6 screw on your chassis.

Here is an example on where you can place it! We choose a Metalic Square as it seems they provide the best location for this purpose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The picture here is giving you some more information with a set of stickers on the wires. It should help you to figure out better where each wire is located

 

 

 

 

 

 


(Scalar XL) Start by separate the wires coming from the static relay and the other remaining ones..

 

 

 

 


Place the wires on the slot of the vertical aluminum profile.

You can use 2 « long » clips to help you maintain the wires inside the slots as shown on the picture.

 

 


Also add the wires coming from Y axis motor as well as it’s end stop inside the same slot on top of the wires attached to the static relay.

You might have to remove and replace the clips previously attached on the aluminum profile.

 


Now you can also insert the Z axis motor wire and help you with the already in place clips.

 

 

 


You should have 2 set of wires left coming from the X axis.

Keep in mind that those wires will have to follow the up down movement of the X axis.

 

 

 


Take them in your hand.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Take the 2 sets of wires, 1 with 4 wires and the other one with 2 wires. As they will move at the same time, it’s interesting to keep them together and check that there are enough length for them to go up and down the Z axis.

 

 

 


The best is to have the X axis carriage at the lowest or highest position possible so that you can quickly estimate the amount of wire length needed.

Here our carriage is located at the bottom and we roughly evaluate the length of wire we need for it to move up. mark or keep this length (here with our hand on top)

 

 


You can secure them by inserting them inside the vertical profile slot by letting them exit either toward the top or the opposite.

Secure them with a clips at the level marked by your hand earlier corresponding to the length needed to move all along the Z axis.

 

 


You can secure the wires with cable ties.

 

 

 

 

 


Now continue on with the set of wires coming from the hot end.

Place them on the middle of the top horizontal aluminum profile.

 

 

 


To make sure you have left enough free cable to allow the hot end to move freely, place the X carriage at one of it’s right or left limits. Here on the lower right corner.

Make sure to have enough free wire for the hot end to move up and down and also in each corners.

 

 


Take 3 clips, 2 long and 1 short.

They will help you to keep all the wires in place in the aluminum profile slots.

 

 

 


Start by securing your wires by placing them inside the top slot of the aluminum profile and use a long clip to keep them in place.

 

 

 

 


With the second long clip, keep in place the wires up to the electronic display.

You can let free the wires on the side. We will handle them later on.

 

 


Take the wires coming from the power supply.

We advise you to twirl the 4 cables together as it allows to easily keep them in place inside the aluminum slots. It also prevent from making any unwanted nodes with other cables later on.

 

 


Locate and take the connector from the other Z axis stepper motor that we previously placed inside the vertical aluminum profile. It should exit right next to the power supply if we refer to the previous wiring we did on this part.

 

 

 


Pass it inside the top horizontal aluminum profile and secure it with the last clip you should have.

You can use the already in place clips to secure the remaining of the wire up to the end.

 

 

 


Connect this connector on the pin header dedicated for the Z axis motor, It should be the last one remaining for the Z axis. Here at the top left of the picture.

 

 

 

 


Take the last stepper connector connected to the extruder motor.

This one must go behind the power supply and follow the sale slot used for the previous Z axis connector.

 

 


This should look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 

 


Connect it on the last pin header dedicated to stepper motors, below the stepper driver marked with « E0 ».

Here on the second row of stepper drivers on the right.

 

 


The cable will go through the same slot as the one used for the last Z axis motor wire.

 

 

 

 


Now, should remain the power supply power cables to be placed on top of the other stepper motor wires.

The clips should be able to keep all the cables into place.

 

 

 


Connect your wires on the general green power input connectors.

The whole set has polarity so make sure you connect the + output from the power supply to the + input of the board and the same goes for the Ground (minus) output of the power supply to the minus input of the board « + »-> »+ » and « – » -> « -« .

On this picture the blue cables are the « +12V » output of the power supply (yours should be red) and the brown wires are the Ground output of the power supply (yours should be black).

 

 


On the green power terminals a clear marking tells you the polarity of each terminal.

In order to emphasize the polarity of each terminal we added some sticker on the photo .

The ground cables (here in brown, yours in black) are to be connected to the « – » terminals.

The +12v power cables (here in blue, yours in red) should be connected on the other terminals marked with « + » sign.

 

 


Once all of them are connected it should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Now take the wires from the hot end fan.

 

 

 

 


Connect them on the output power terminal (here in blue) on the terminals marked with « D9 » which should be the middle terminals.

The red wire corresponding to the +12V should be connected to the terminal with « + » marking (here the 3rd on starting from the top).

Connect the remaining black wire corresponding to the « – » (ground) just below.

 


On the recent kits this fan might already be provided with a 2 pin connector

If your ramps board is provided with a « Y » shape wire extender then use it to connect the fan connector to the +12V of your ramps board.

Take the wires from the hot end.

The fan in front should be On all the time, so it will be connected to the +12V input of the board.

 

 


If you have the « Y » shaped wire extender, conserder using it . Use the following step only as an alternative solution to connect the hot end fan to the 12V Power supply.

The red wire (+12V) is to be connected on the same terminal power inputs marked with « + » along side the wires coming from the power supply.

Here we are using the 2nd green terminal starting from the top.

The black wire for the ground is to be connected to the terminal above with the « – » marking

 


Regarding the thermistor wire coming from the hot end, it is to be connector on the 2 dedicated pins marked « T0 » at the right of the thermistor dedicated to the heat bed.

Here the screw diver shows where it’s located.

 

 

 

 


Take the wires of the hot end heater cartridge.

They can be any color (often red or blue depending on the power of the heater cartridge).

 

 

 

 


The are to be connected on the last power output terminals (here in blue at the very bottom.

The heater cartridge is mainly a resistive element so it has no polarity at all and wires have no + or -, so you can connect them as you want on the last terminals at the bottom.

 


Now on the inductance probe wire, take the free red wire.

 

 

 

 


This stand alone wire is to be connected on the « + » marking of the green power input terminals. Take the one you want, here for a better repartitions, we propose to connect it to the green terminal at the very bottom.

 

 

 


The 3 pin connector with only 2 out of 3 pins are connected is dedicated to the Z min end stop.

Note: On certain kits the induction prob is provided with a 2 pin dupont connector (black) with 1 red and 1 black wire.

Warning, This connector has a polarity!

The 2 wires must always be connected on the last 2 rows of pin header with the void unconnected pin left alone for the 1 row.

On the version with 2 pin dupont connector, it must also be connector on the 2 last rows.

The green or red wire corresponds to the probe signal, so it must be connected to the signal dedicated line that is the last row.

The black wire is the ground of the probe. It must be connected to the middle row.

Scalar S – Dual drive system bed upgrade

Dual drive system upgradeThis page describes the installation of the Dual drive system bed upgrade for Scalar S 3D printer.

It postulates that you have the standard version of the Scalar S, and that you are upgrading your Y Axis.

This upgrade is a mechanical upgrade only.

It doesn’t require any firmware updates.

 

 

Bed disassembly

scalar S, upgrade plateau à double entraînement


Removing belts

In order to continue, it’s best that you remove the belt already installed.

Keep it close as you will need it very soon.


Y axis positioning


Rail assembly

Check the procedure here


Installation of the new axis


2 sides synchronization

Remove the black screw already in place.

Keep it safe for future use.

Take great care to the pulleys directions

Do not tighten the pulleys


Tighten the stabilization screws

These screws are here to stabilize the extrusion profile, to prevent it from rotating.

Back view of the printer, we install the M5x35 black screws that we kept from earlier.


New lower plate installation


Heat plate installation


Belts installation

Follow this procedure


Bed alignment

This step allows to make sure that your bed is properly aligned to your chassis

This step takes into account that your pulleys are not tighten on their shafts. They must remain loose until the end of this alignment procedure.

Once you have checked that one side is aligned, you can tighten the red extrusion holders on the chassis on one side only.

Here we are tightening the right side. It will allow us to align the other side more easily

 

Slide the bed toward the back of the printer. The left axis should align itself once the bed has reach the end stop.

Hold the plastic support and tighten it on the chassis.

Now, slide again the bed toward the front of the machine this time. Once at the end, hold the plastic holder and tighten it on the chassis.

 

You can check that the bed is centered using the hotend. It should be able to move over the whole heatbed surface. You can adjust the position of the X end stop in order to fix potential centering issues.

Your heatbed should move freely back and forth with no issues linked to parallelism.

Also your bed should be properly aligned to your chassis now. You can check that by moving the bed edge to the front of your chassis. Using a ruler, you should see that the bed is parallel to the front of the chassis on both sides (right and left).


Tightening the Pulleys

Now that your bed is properly aligned and centered you can tigthen the 4 pulleys  and you are done!

ZOffset calibration without LCD screen

This article present you the procedure on how to set your ZOffset without any LCD screeen on your Scalar S 3D Printer.

This article presumes that you are using Marlin firmware (RC8 or newer) and a Scalar S 3D printer without LCD screen.

Requirements

Starting Pronterface

Once unzipped, browse inside the pronterface folder and launch « pronterface.exe » in « Administrator » mode via the right click context menu

Pronterface GUI is starting

ZOffset calibration

Select your printer COM port (mine is COM13)

Push the « Connect » button to start the connection.

If the connection is working properly a list of text and parameters should be displayed on the console output on the right side of the application.

The information we are interested in are:

  • Marlin firmware version (RC8 or newer)
  • ZOffset current value here at the bottom (here is -0.10mm)

In order to adjust Zoffset we are going to print a calibration part compatible with Scalar S and a 1.75mm filament.

Click on the  « Load File » button

Then browse for the file « Scalar_S_Calibration_retraction.gcode » that you previously downloaded

Clock on the « Print » button

If you first layer is still too high you need to:

  1. stop printing by pressing the « Off » button
  2. Change the Zoffset using command M851 Zxxxx with xxxx being the new zoffset
  3. Save the new value using the  M500 command
  4. Start a new print in order to check the effect of the new Zoffset
  5. If it’s still not good, perform again step 2

Here we show how to change the Zoffset by typing command M851 Z-0.3 into the console.We send the command to the printer using the « Send » button located at the right of the text input field.

Note that:

  • In order to lower the nozzle on the first layer your ZOffset must be « Negative« .
  • Decrement the offset using steps of 0.1 or 0.2 (ex: go from -0.10 to -0.30)
  • If your nozzle seems to far away from the bed, consider decrementing of 0.5mm

pronterface auto bed leveling marlin ZOffset

Start again a new print using the « Restart » button

Save your new Zoffset using command M500

Heatbed upgrade – extrusion profiles supports

heatbed holder

Notice about GT2 pulleys

The gt 2 pulleys on the pictures here are show only as an information. You will install them later on.

 

List of parts:

  • 3 extrusion profiles supports (plastic part)
  • 1 extrusion support with end stop (pièce plastique)
  • 8 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 8 x  M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 TNuts
  • 4 GT2 16 teeth pulleys
  • 1 cable tie

Assembly process

Take the plastic part

Use 2x625ZZ bearings

These 2 bearings will be inserted inside specific grooves of the plastic part.

How to place the later GT2 pulleys

The GT 2 pulley will then come between the 2 bearings.

Special note:

In order to align later on the belt, the pulley will need to be laid against 1 of the bearings. In order to keep the symetric aspect of this part, you will get a small void between the other side of the pulley and the other bearing.

 

The location of the pulley will be explained later on

Repeat the same logic on the 2 other parts. You should get 3 identical parts.

End stop holder.

The procedure is the same here

The only difference is the special location where you need to install the end stop

Note however the location of the en stop wheel pointing up.

 

Warning, this end stop holder has been updated starting Avril 2017

Here is the new version

In order to keep track of previous parts,  here is the old version.(before Avril 2017)

Once assembled

Again the pulleys cann be held right now and are shown only for further comprehension

Preparing the nuts and screws

The final phase here is to prepare all the M6X12mm screws and their Tnuts that we will use later on.

You will need :

  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 Tnuts

The side holes on the plastic parts are used to install these screws and Tnuts

 

Scalar S – Chassis Assembly

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S

Check the PDF 3D to get a global view of the assembled chassis of the Scalar S

Building the chassis

  • 3 2020 40cm extrusion profiles
  • 2 v-slot Profiles2020 40cm (for Z Axis)
  • 2 Extrusions profiles 2020 30cm
  • 6 small squares
  • 2 Double squares
  • 20 pcs M4x8 screws
  • 20 Pcs M4 TNuts

Use 6 small squares and pre mount the screws and TNuts

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S


Do the same for the double squares

Châssis Scalar S


Tip

Move the squares on the corners. Yhe Tnut must be aligned with the extrusion profile groove.

Once properly aligned the TNuts will properly fit the groove and the square will naturally take it’s place

 

 

 


When you will tighten the screw, the Tnut will perfom 1/4 turn inside the extrusion profile as shown on the picture.

Check carefully that the TNut has performed the 1/4 turn so it’s properly locked with with extrusion.

 

Make sure the Tnut is properly positioned before finalizing your build.

When you unscrew the screws, the TNut must unlock and perform 1/4 turn on the other side. This will allows you to remove the square and the nut.


Chassis base

For the base of the chassis, you will need to use only 2020 standard extrusion profiles. Keep the Vslot (often black) extrusions for later.


Z Axis

The extrusions on both sides (here on the right and on the left) Are VSlots (often black)

The top extrusion profile is standard 2020 extrusion


Assembling both parts

Top viewChâssis Scalar S


Finish

List of parts

  • 6 end caps

use the 6 end caps as shown on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Start to push them by hand slightly.

 

 

 

 


Push them up to the end. use some force if needed. You may require an hammer to push them completely in some cases.

 

 

 


 

Scalar S: Belt installation under the bed

bed installation under the bed

In this section you will need:

  • Scalar S: 0.9 meters GT2 belt for 300mm VSlots

Take as a reference one side of the guide

You have only 1 guide support on each side and a 300mm long extrusion profile between.

On each side you have 1x 16 teeth pulley

The belt goes inside the extrusion profile groove on top and is then tighten at the bottom under the carriage plate.

Here is a sliced view of the whole assembly.

belt installation under the bed

The final goal is to have the belt in this state

Note that the Belt’s teeth are always facing the pulleys.

Take the belt and push it on one side, inside the top groove. The teeth must be facing downward.

Push it until it exists on the other side.

Once at the end, turn it so that it goes inside the bottom groove of the extrusion profile this time.

When the belt arrives at the middle of the carriage , it needs to go inside the middle hole of the bottom plate of the carriage.

Pull it enough so that you can clamp it with the dedicated plastic clamp. Make sure you have enough belt left so that you can tighten it later on.

Remove the 2 xM3X8 thermo screws that keeps the clamps screws, push the belt between and screw back the clamp.

On the other side, it’s similar, you need to push the belt inside the bottom part of the extrusion profile up to the middle of the Carriage. Then push it in the middle hole. Don’t clamp it yet.

Note, if one side of the belt is properly clamped you should be able to tighten the belt and perform the final clamping of the belt.

You can also tighten the belt on both sides if you feel the need for it. One side should be enough .

Here is a view of the bottom plate of the carriage.

The belt arrives near a kind of belt guide that will keep the belt centred.

The belt is then pushed inside the middle groove and is placed between the clamp and the bottom carriage

If needed we tighten the belt (Only if 1 side is properly clamped).

 

Tightening the Pulleys

 

Now that your belt is installed you Must screw your pulleys on both motor and idler side.

Installation of PTFE liner inside E3D lite hot end

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeThe E3D Lite hot end is provided with a PTFE liner

It is destined to be inserted all the way inside the hot end.

it allows the filament to be properly guided inside the hot end. Also it reduces all the friction of the filament with the hot end body.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeA quick connector is available to prevent the liner from going out.

To remove the liner, just push the connector down and pull the liner at the same time.

 

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeOnce inside you need to remove the excess of liner

For Scalar S, the total length of the tube must be7.9cm.

It will allow the liner to reach the extrusion gear inside the extruder.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeThe adaptor part must then be placed on top and go through the left over liner.

The 4 fixation holesmust be aligned with the hot end support holes at the top.

Please note the position of the adaptor shaped as a bat.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfe