Archives de catégorie : Axe X


X axis assembly (Horizontal)

Front view of the assembled part Back view of the assembled part
Scalar M: Pre assembled X carriage Scalar XL: Pre assembled X axis

Scalar XL List of parts :

  • 2 x 660x10mm
  • 3 x LM10UU bearings
  • 2 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 1 M3x16 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 x XMI 10 plastic part (Idler support)
  • 1 x XMII 10 (motor support)
  • [Not provided] 1 x hammer
  • [Non provided] 1 x bubble level

Scalar M List of parts :

  • 2 x 435x8mm
  • 3 x LM8UU bearings
  • 2 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 1 M3x16 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 x XMI 8 plastic part (Idler support)
  • 1 x XMII 8 (motor support)
  • [Not provided] 1 x hammer
  • [Non provided] 1x  bubble level


Scalar XL: Take the plastic part marked XMII and 2 660mm long, 10mm diameters smooth rods


Scalar M: Take the plastic part marked XMII and 2 x  435 long, 8mm diameters smooth rods





Approche the smooth rodes from the plastic part





Scalar XL: Push the rods inside the round slot on the plastic part of about 4.3cm . The pictures shows you how much the smooth rod is inside the plastic part.


Scalar M: Push the rods inside the round slot on the plastic part of about 2.5cm .



If you struggle in pushing the smooth rod inside , use a hammer and give some small sharp hits on the other side of the smooth rods. They will get inside little by little.




Here the pictures shows 1 smooth rod completely inside and the other one in the process of getting inside.





Once both smooth rods are in place, you will have something similar to the picture.

Notice on the picture that the top of the plastic part is indeed at the bottom of the picture.




Scalar XL: Once both smooth rods inside their slots, insert 2 x LM10UU bearings on the top rod and only 1 on the bottom rod.

Scalar M: Once both smooth rods inside their slots, insert 2 x LM8UU bearings on the top rod and only 1 on the bottom rod.


You can figure out what is the top side easily. The marking is made so that when you read it on the proper side.


Pre assembled kit: Inside the pre assembled kit, the X carriage will already be mounted with the Linear bearings .You need to position it as shown on this picture.



Scalar XL: Once the bearings are in place, take the other plastic part marked XMI 10 And push the available sides of the smooth rods inside.

Scalar M: Once the bearings are in place, take the other plastic part marked XMI 8 And push the available sides of the smooth rods inside.


This side should be easy to insert.



Once the smooth rods inside push the plastic part so that the rods are on the edge of the plastic part.





You can use a hammer and hit the middle of the plastic part if you struggle doing it!




Here is the result if you have it right.

Vue face Vue arrière

X axis with the pre assembled X carriage

X axis belt setup

List of parts

  • 3 M3x20 screw
  • (Scalar XL) 1 M3x50 screw
  • (Scalar M) 1 M3x30 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 M3 washer
  • 2 plastic washers
  • 1 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic cage for 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic fork stretcher
  • 1m40 GT2 2mm belt
  • (Scalar XL) 1 XCA 10 plastic support
  • (Scalar M) 1 XCA 8 plastic support
  • 1 GT2 16 teeth pulleys
  • 5 cable ties
  • 1 stepper motor
  • [provided] 1 allen key
  • [not provided] 1 cruciform screw diver
  • [not provided] 1 cutting pliers or pair of scissors


Insert the bearing inside the plastic cage





Insert the plastic washers on the bearing





Place the bearing block inside the Fork plastic support as shown on the picture





Insert a  M3x20 screw + M3 washer and then close the whole system with a M3 nut.





If the carriage is already mounted you can scroll down to skip this part.

On X Axis slightly space the linear bearings and move them on the center on the axis.





The following steps explain how to assemble the X carriage called XCA 10 for Scalar XL and XCA 8 for Scalar M. You can now check that it properly fit on the bearings.





Place on the carriage 3 cable ties. In order to make things easier, be careful to properly place the cable tie heads on the outside of the plastic part as shown on the picture.

Also make sure the heads have at least 1 or 2cm of free length, this will makes things easier later on when you will tight them up.



The back view will give you more access to the cable ties and will make it easier to handle them.





Tight the cable ties so that the ties heads stay at the outside of the part.This will allows to have more free room for the belt later on.




Front view, the carriage looks like the picture.

Notice the cable ties that enroll the bearing.




Now take a stepper motor and 3 M3x20mm screws





Place the stepper motor on the left of the X axis.

The wires from the stepper motor needs to be oriented toward the machine .




Screw it entirely on it’s support.





The back view shows you how to position the cables. They will then be place inside the aluminum extrusion slot later on.




Now , install the pulley on the motor axis. Place it as shown on the picture so that the thicker part of the pulley is facing the opposite of the motor. This will allow you to properly align the pulley’s teeth with the belt slot on the stepper motor support.




This side you should help you understand how to align the pulley with the belt slot.





Now take the belt stretcher that you assembled at the beginning of this chapter.





Scalar M: Take also a M3x30 screw, a washer and a M3 nut.

Scalar XL: Take also a M3x50 screw, a washer and a M3 nut.

Place the nut inside the belt stretcher, there is a dedicated slot on the side of it.

The washer will be mounted on the screw and will help to tighten the stretcher.







Use the tensioner support and place it at the end of the X axis smooth rods.It’s purpose is to make sure the tensioner will force on the X axis smooth rods ends and not on the Horizontal Z axis smooth rods.



Place the screw and it’s washer on the side of the right side of the X axis.

She should be free and be fully inside.




Now place the stretcher inside the dedicated slot on the same plastic part.

Notice the triangular shape slot. The stretcher should be able to get inside properly.



Slightly screw the stretcher with the side screw.

The purpose here is to make sure the stretcher is in place and that we have the maximum amount of possible movement to stretch the belt later on.




A side picture showing the gap between the stretcher and the X axis plastic part. The screw should be able to move freely when moving the stretcher. (the tensioner support is missing on this picture)





This picture shows you how much length is available once the stretcher is fully pushed inside it’s slot. (the tensioner support is missing on this picture)





Depending how the belt is provided you will need to cut the 2.5m meter length of it or they will already be provided with the proper length.




Take the 1m40 belt (cut the 2.5meter belt at 1m40 if the belt is provided uncut).

Also take 2 cable ties




Insert the belt inside the slot of the stepper motor holder plastic part.

Insert it at the bottom of the bearings, the belt’s teeth facing the bearings.



On the other side, handle the belt so that it goes around the pulley.

With the belt’s teeth always facing the pulley.




Another view showing the belt





Take care to push the belt on top of the bearings. The bearing will keep the belt straight to the X axis carriage so that when the motor pull or push the belt, it’s always rectilinear and parallel to the smooth rods.

Then pull the belt so that at least 10cm are available in the void.



Now go the other side of the X axis, and take the bottom part of your belt.

Push it behind the X carriage.




Now insert it behind the stretcher. If you struggle you can unscrew the stretcher, pass the belt and then screw back the stretcher.




Here is a picture of the belt once inserted behind the stretcher.





Bring both ends of the belt together.

Those 2 ends must be located at the top of the overall belt assembly.

If you have the proper length, the belt should slight cross  with enough free belt.

Place it in the center of the X carriage


Take one end of your belt and push it inside the tight gap dedicated to keep the belt into position, between the 2 linear bearings.You might need to force a little bit so that the belt is slightly smashed between the plastic.

You can use your nails to push the belt up to the end of the slot.



Then round it so that the belt teeth can join. make sure you have extra length, you will need it to secure the belt later on.





Do the same on the other side of the belt.

At this moment try to pull the belt a maximum already so that it’s quite stretched .

Whatever you do, the belt will keep a small flexibility. It’s normal, the side stretcher will cope with that later on.


Insert a cable tie and start to close it but keep it loose. One side of the belt must fully be inside the closing cable tie. the picture illustrate this..




Now close the cable tie but make sure the belt stay aligned and parallel to the smooth rods. The belt must always be aligned at the top to keep the mechanical motion of the carriage linear.




Do the same with the other side of the belt.





Once finished it should look like the photo.





Take a screw diver and stretch the belt max . Make sure not to bend the Z axis however.

You know that your belt is stretched when it seems very hard by pressing on it.

Considering the length of the belt, even when properly stretched, it might still seem a little bit flexible or might vibrate a little bit. It’s normal it shouldn’t bother that much the printing but might impact the maximum acceleration you can use on that axis.



Setup of End stops

List of parts :

  • 1 smooth rod support integrating the pre wired end stop.
  • 1 x 8mm (Scalar M) or 10mm (Scalar XL)  smooth rod compatible end stop support
  • 1 End stop with a wheel
  • 2 sets of M6x12mm screw and it’s T-Nut
  • 2 cable ties


Assembly of the Y axis end stop

Take the plastic part looking like a hook and clips it over the smooth rod near the X axis motor support .

Here we placed it on the top rod, but you can place it on the bottom one if you feel the end stop doesn’t hit the X carriage




Now take the end stop with the wheel and place it so that the wires are on the outside of the machine toward the stepper motor, and make sure that the wheel is heading toward the smooth rod.

The main prupose here is that the wheel would hit the X carriage to signal to the electronic that the carriage has reached the MIN position on X axis.


In order to allow the more natural position of the end stop’s wire, just make sure they go behind the threaded rod, between the threaded rod and the aluminum extrusion as shown on the picture.

Also secure the end stop on it’s support using 2 cable ties.



Bring the X axis carriage against the end stop and check that the wheel is properly pushed by the carriage and that the probe wire is well positioned.

If the probe wire is causing trouble, you might consider placing this end stop on the bottom smooth rod.

Also check that the end stop support is  not moving on the smooth rod to avoid possible future issues.


This picture shows the front view. The end stop is pushed against the x Carriage.

At this moment check that the nozzle position over the heat bed is reaching the border of it. If it’s not the case, just readjust the location of the end stop a little bit in order to achieve this goal.


In order to make sure tat the end stop is properly attached to the smooth rod, you can constraint it using the cable tie and secure the end stop lead wire with it as on the picture making sure it’s going behind the threaded rod.



Y Axis End stop installation

We are going to install here the end stop of the Y axis .

This items should already be assembled . You might need to remove the protective scotch however before using it.

You should have on your chassis 3 identical heatbed smooth rod supports and 1 other with the integrated end stop holder.

It is to be placed on the opposite side of the power supply, also on the opposite side of the Y axis motor on the same extrusion profile.


These 2 pictures should help you to locate the proper position of it.on your machine.









Now take the M4x20 screw and it’s 2 M4 nuts.






Place the nut at the middle of the screw thread.





Under the heatbed, you should have a special LM8UU linear bearing holder with a hole dedicated to this screw .





You should have this support aligned with the end stop holder.





Now insert the screw inside up to the nut






Adjust the screw depth so that the nozzle tip reach the edge of the heat bed.






Secure the Screw using the left over M4 nut.






(Goodies) Assembly of the Y axis end stop

Now you are going to assemble the Y axis end stop.

Take the plastic support that is compatible with 30×30 slots.

Prepare a set of M6x12mm screw and a T-Nut.

Place the end stop so that the contact side is placed toward the outside of the part. Also  center the end stop so that the dedicated holes on the plastic part for securing the end stop are aligned with the end stop holes.

The photo shows you how to place it.


secure it wit 2 cable ties.

A good tip is to make sure that the cable ties heads are placed on the left of the plastic part. The picture should help you to place them properly.




Place the whole assembly on the side of the Y axis motor near the YMI marked plastic part.

The lead wire of the end stop can be placed like on the picture, afterward the motor wires and the end stop wires will follow the some path.



The inverted view shows how the end stop contact is located and how the wires are going to be placed.

This position is also nice to protect the contact metallic plate from being broken.



Installation the Y axis end stop finger

Under the heat bed, make sure to be on the opposite side of the heat bed power cable.

Now take as reference the linear bearing support located the closest to the Y axis end stop.

On this photo the Top left linear bearing support



From this starting point, measure 100mm (10cm) on the right of it and then go down 25mm (2.5cm). Then make a mark.

Then go right again for 10 mm (1cm) and make a 2nd mark.

Both marks will be used to locate the screws for the Y axis finger holder


Now take the finger holder and place the 2 wooden screws to secure it in place at the location of the previous marks.


A M3X20mm screw and 2 nuts are to be used in order to adjust the Y MIN position of the heat bed.


Setup of the hot end auxiliary fan

List of parts :

  • 2 M3X25mm screws
  • 4 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 nuts
  • 1 blower fan
  • 1 GoPro fan support
  • 1 Fan shroud for blower fan

Take  1 screw,  1 nut and 2 washers as well as the GoPro fan support.







Now screw the GoPro Fan support on the blower fan, using the hole just next to the blower fan power wires .

Assemble it as follow: screw-washer –hole — washer – nut.




This photo shows the other side of the fan.







Place the whole assembly on the compatible support on the HotEnd block The photo shows you how to do it.




Secure it using the remaining fixation elements (M3x25mm screw, washer and nut).

You can place the screw head any way you want.




Now, tighten the whole thing enough so that the fan can be oriented but can stay in desired orientation.





Install the fan shroud as shown on the picture. This last part is to cool down  and harden the plastic just after it exists the hot end nozzle. You will need it when you will use PLA.





Rotate the fan block and adjust the orientation so that the blown air will cool down the bottom base of the nozzle.

Warning:  If the orientation is too much toward the hot end’s heater block, the fan will prevent the heater block from heating the plastic filament enough.





Hot End Installation (E3D V6)

This page is dedicated to the hot end Installation

Hot End Installation

Part list :

  • 1 x assembled hot end (here E3D V6)
  • 1 x inductance probe
  • 4 x plastic screws (provided with hot end)
  • 1 x fan provided with hot end
  • 4 x M3X20 screws thermoplastic
  • 3 x M3X8 screws thermoplastic
  • 1 couple of plastic parts to support the hot end (here with the marking E3DI andE3DII)
  • (not provided) 1 screws diver


Hot end E3D supportSince September of 2016 you should get this holder in the kit.

This holder is re-using the original E3D fan holder .

The assembly on the chassis is very similar to the following procedure, just consider inserting the Blue part on the hot end heat sink first.

Look closely to the red arrow and you will notice that the holder has to be installed so that the non flat side is set toward down.

The following picture should show you more details.


hot end suppot for E3Dv6






hot end suppot for E3Dv6






hot end suppot for E3Dv6







Installation of E3Dv6 hot end on the carriage

X Axis Carriage

X Axis carriage

The goal here is to screw the hot end support on the X axis carriage.









Take the screw diver and also the plastic part marked « E3DII« .(Note on the new plastic parts there is no marking because the side of the plastic part is used for the hot end fan.)

This part links the X axis carriage and the hot end .

It’s like a mould with an imprint for securing the hot end in place.



The X axis carriage also has several rows of 3mm holes.

Those holes allows to screw the previous part in place. Depending on the height of your heat bed and also of the one of your hot end nozzle you might want to use a different set of holes to increase or decrease the height of the hot end of a few millimetres.

In our current situation we are going to use the holes located on the outside of the part on the lowest row. The picture will confirm the holes to use.



Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffanteOn the new version of the support no marking is visible

it should look like this one






The picture here shows the second hole to use to secure the hot end support .





Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffante

Insert 2 M3X20 thermoplastic screws inside the holes on the side in order to keep the system attached

1 M3x8mm thermoplastic screw comes to strengthen the whole support





Fixation du bloque de base du support de tête chauffante








Now take the inductor support.





Note that on the new version of the plastic part, the inductive probe support has been removed and placed on the base holder instead.



Start to insert the 2 x M3x20 Thermoplastic screws inside the dedicated holes. The picture tells you which one to use.

Hot end clampHere is a picture showing the new compact plastic clamp








Assemblage du bloque de tête chauffante

Assemblage du bloque de tête chauffante

This new plastic part is clamping the hot end inside it’s groove.








Hot End InstallationOnce finalized the assembly should look like this








PDF 3D:Final assembly of the hot end support for E3D6



Skip this part if you have the new Holder system




Place this support on top of the hot end and don’t touch the Screws yet!

Place the 30mm fan (here on the picture  40mm) on the right side of the assembly.

Use 4 wood screws and slightly screw them loose so that the fan keep it’s place.



The front view should look like this.

No screws are tighten yet.

The fan will hold properly the inductor holder.

If you tighten the inductor holder first, the fan hole might not be aligned any more with it’s screws.



Once you have checked that all is aligned you can tighten the fan screws.

Note that the the screws of the inductor holder are yet not tighten.





Now you can finish to screw the inductor probe support.

The left screw should allow you to go a little bit further than the right one. It should make sure that the hot end is properly hold in place.




Now take the blower fan support as well as 2x M3x8mm screws (the shorter ones!)

This part allows to keep in place the blower fan in a vertical manner. It also guide the airflow toward the hot-end’s nozzle tip.




Same here, start to insert the screws until they reach the other side of the plastic part.

The holes we are using here are the one at the 2nd row of holes starting from the bottom.

Note that this part was made for AluHotEnd  and mostly applies to E3D hot end.

As E3D hot end size is different from AluHotEnd you may need to use another set of holes. If you are not sure read the following steps below before doing anything.

This design allows to adjust the height of the air flow based on the hot end you are using.









Here the screw driver shows you the holes to use to fix the blower fan holder.

They are the 2 holes located below the one used to secure the inductor support in place.



On this picture, the second hole to use.







Now place the blower fan holder so that the screws are aligned with their holes.

Here also make sure to go easy with the screws.




The side views of the assembly








The fan shroud should point to the nozzle tip.






Now take the blower fan






Unroll the wires.







Place it on it’s support so that the fan output is placed toward the bottom.

At the top you will find 2 holes slightly shifted.

Place the fan so that the holding hole is aligned with 1 of the 2 holes on the support. Take the one you feel is best.



Use the last M4x20 screw (the bigger one) to keep the fan in place.

here we choose the top hole.




Once the blower fan in place, the setup should look like this picture.






The inductor probe comes last.






Remove the bottom nut and washer.

Take some time to place the remaining washer and nut slightly above the middle of the probe thread.




Insert the probe inside the last dedicated hole.






Try to place it so that the bottom blue end cap of it is slightly above the hot end tip. We will come back to it alter on when you will setup your electronics.





You can put back the washer and it’s nut to secure the probe in place.






Finish by placing the PTFE tube inside the pneumatic connector and you are done.