Archives de catégorie : Imprimante Scalar X10

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How to improve / fix Z woobble

Commonly called « Z Woobble » on most of reprap forums, this phenomenon is very frequent when you assemble a reprap 3D printer.

Often, this phenomenon can appear after a while whithout even knowing why or what we did.

There are always at least 1 or many reasons why this happens.

When we have this effect at the begining it can be time consuming or challenging to find out how to fix it.

What is Z Woobble?

A deposit 3d printer, is printing layers on top of the previous layers.

In a perfect world, all the layers are perfectly aligned and we have a perfect wall finish.

In reality, we can often have Z Wooble, it means that the layers are miss aligned and we have some « waves » on the sides of the prints.

If we look closely under light we can see a periodic pattern repeating itself.

If we look even closer we can see that the layers seems to be layered correctly but the height of each layer may vary slightly.

Le plastique s’écrase par moment et se détend à d’autres endroits.

If we place our threaded rod in front of a long print we can clearly see the pattern matching with the thread.

Causes:

The identified causes so far are numerous, that’s why we can often accumulate them, making things challenging to fix.

Here are the causes we could identified so far:

  • Threaded rod are not parallel to themselves or to the guiding smooth rods.
  • The X belt tensioner is applying force on the Z axis smooth rods instead of the X axis smooth rods. THe smooth rods will then bend slightly enought to generate the issue.
  • The extruder is not calibrated. (EStep/mm not calibrated),The amount of plastic is too much or not enought making the plastic deposing irrugular.
  • The X carriage is not moving smoothly on the Z direction. One of the side is moving before the other side and the movement is not linear anymore.
  • One of the threaded rod is blocked when the axis is going down.(often when we are using auto bed leveling)
  • Auto bed leveling is compensating too much. meaning that one of the Z axis side is higher that the other side based on the heatbed. Use a flat object in order to adjust the height on both sides of the z axis to greatly diminish the compensation of auto bed leveling.
  • The filament is periodically blocked, impacting the plastic flow.
  • The extruder is sleepering on the filament. This impacts the plastic flow.
  • The layer height is too high or too low according to your nozzle diameter.
  • The filament diameter is not uniform and may vary a lot. Here again the plastic flow will be impacted.
  • One of the Z axis nuts have slack.
  • At least one of the nuts or the threaded rods are worn.In this case the best is to change both Threaded rods and Nuts on both sides.
  • The top of the threaded rod is constrained/ Threaded rods are never perfectly straight. constraining the top of the threaded rods will impact the guiding rods. Freeing the top of the threaded rods can fix the wooble effects.

Feel free to come back to us if you know some other causes and possible fixes.

 

E3D V6 Full Metal hot end assembly

List of parts

  • 1 x heater blocks
  • 1 x heat break
  • 1 x nozzle
  • 1 x aluminum heat-sink
  • 1 x thermistor (100K Semitec 104GT2)
  • 1 x 12V 40W heat cartridge
  • 1 x 12V 30x30x10mm fan
  • 1 x high temperature glass fiber tube for thermistor
  • 2 x ferrules
  • 1 x M3x3mm screws
  • 1 x M3 washer
  • 1 x M3x10 screws
  • 1 x PTFE 80cm tube

Nozzle assembly:

  • Insert the nozzle inside the heater block. With the hex shaped head the closest possible of the heater block.
  • Tighten very slightly the nozzle against the heater block. Then un-screw it by 1/4 up to 1/2 of a turn.

 

 


  • Now screw the heat break in the same opposite hole as the nozzle.
    You must screw it until it’s deep inside.

 

 

 


  • Take 2 keys of the proper size and slightly tight them up.
    WARNING: Just tighten the whole thing very slightly, because the  aluminum thread inside the heater block is very fragile. You will need to tighten again anyway once the hot end is hot later on.

 

 

Thermistor assembly

  • Take the blue fiber glass tube.
  • Cut 2 parts of about 35mm long.
  • Insert the thermistor lead wires inside .
    Warning: The thermistor wires are extremely sensitive and fragile, so be very careful with them!

 

 

 


  • take the thermistor between your fingers and make a 90° angle on a 5mm length from the thermistor head.

 

 

 

 


  • Place the thermistor inside the small dedicated hole on the corner of the heater block near the nozzle.
  • Prepare the M3x4mmscrew and it’s washer, start to screw it inside the threaded hole next to the thermistor.
  • Make it so the thermistor wires are going on both sides of the screw as shown on the picture.
    Note: Check that the fiber glass insulator is still insulating the very end of the thermistor so that the legs of the thermistor have no contact between them.

Tighten the screw in order to clamp the fiber glass insulator and hold the thermistor in place.

 

 

 

 


Here is a view of the assembly once done.

  • Check that the blue insulator is still properly insulating the thermistor wires neat the thermistor head.
    If the wires are have contact on the heater block you will get some bad or wrong temperature readings leading to some failures later on.

 

 


 

Heater cartridge insertion :

  • Insert the heater cartridge so that the power cables are on the same side as the thermistor lead wires.
  • Center the heater cartridge on the heater block.

 

 

 


  • Insert a M3X10 screw inside the hole in order to clamp the heater cartridge inside the hater block.
  • Screw it until the heater block is slightly deformed in order to make sure the heater cartridge won’t get out of the heater block.

 

 

 


 

Thermistor wiring :

  • Strip the end of the black and red wires and insert 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing over them.

 

 

 


  • Place the Ferules on each thermistor blue insulator.
    If you place the larger part of the ferule  has shown on the picture it will help you for the next steps.
  • Inter-cross the lead wires of the thermistor with the one of the Red and black wires in order to make an electrical contact between them.

 

 


  • Now slide the ferule over the contact.

 

 

 

 


  • With a flat pliers, just smash the ferule in order to seal the contact between the 2 wires.
  • Do the same for the second thermistor wire.

 

 

 


  • Now bring the heat shrink tubing back over the smashed ferules.
  • You can use a lighter or a candler or a solder iron in order to shrink the tubing.
    This last step is to electrically insulate the ferule between them.

 

 


 

Heat sink assembly :

  • Take the heat-sink and screw it over the heat break with only 1 hand
    Tighten it only slightly with your hands, it’s enough.

 

 

 

 


 

Final step :

  • Take the PTFE tubing and slide it inside the heat sink hole as mush as possible.

 

 

 

 

 

Pictures under Creative Commons 3.0 licence

Source : http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

Scalar XL chassis assembly


List of parts

  • 8 x  square holders (2 big and 6 small)
  • 20 x M6x12mm screws
  • 20 x  M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • 6 x side covers
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

General tips when using 3030 aluminum extrusion

The printer kit chassis is based on Aluminum extrusion of various sizes, of some metallic square holders and a set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 


Each square holder is coming with a set of 2 or 4 M6x12 screws and 2/4 T-Nuts .

Keep the big one for the side mounts.
Use the small ones for the base and top.

Mounting square holders :
Off course you can do it many ways, but we will give you here the easier way we found, that allows you to quickly assemble your kit.

 

 

 

 


Take 2 M6 screws and place them on 2 side by side slots.
Then prepare the T-Nuts.

 

 


 

 

 


Start to screws the T-Nuts slightly .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The best is to place the T-Nuts so that they are parallel to each other.

 

 

 

 


Then approach then from the extrusion and slide them inside the extrusion slot.

 

 

 


Here is a side view, the nuts must be aligned with the extrusion slot so that they can perfectly fit inside.


Once aligned you should be able to properly fit the nuts inside the slot.

 

 

 


When screwing the M6 screws, the nut must perform a 90° angle turn and place lock the whole system as shown in the picture.

It can happen that 1 nut won’t turn properly because of various reasons. Be careful that it fully turns otherwise the lock performed buy the nut won’t be efficient.

So take a few seconds to make sure that each Nut has properly turned 90° inside the slot . When you unscrews the nut, it should perform another 90° angle counterclockwise and allow the whole system to be unmounted from the extrusion profile.


 

Base assembly

List of parts :

  • 4 x square holders (small ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

 


Place all the extrusion as shown on the picture.

Notice the 40cm extrusion are placed on the sides and so that they are inside the chassis. Also the 60cm extrusions will respectively be placed on top and at the bottom of them. Now pre-assembled each of the 4 square holders with their set of screws + T-Nuts.

 


Here is a zoomed view of each corner of the assembly with pre-mounted square holders.


Screw each square holder on each corners


Here is the chassis base once every square holders are in place. (You should have 4 small square holders)

 

 

 

 


 

Side mounts assembly (video)

List of parts :

  • 2 square holders (big ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 2 50cm extrusion profiles
  • [Provided] 1  Allen key

 


 

Take as reference the bottom side of a 60cm extrusion profile, and measure 16cm from it going on the 40cm extrusion.

16cm will give you the proper place where to position the side mounts.

 

 

 

 

 


Once in place screw them using a square holder.

 

 

 

 


Here are the side mounts once assembled.

 

 

 

 


 

Assembly of the top mount  (video)

List of parts

  • 2 x square holders (small ones)
  • 4 x M6x12mm screws
  • 4 x T-Nuts
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

For this step, take the longer extrusion profile (70cm) that should be remaining and place it on top of the side mounts.Use a pair of square holders to fix it.
This should look like on the picture. Notice however that the top mount we present you are 2 x 50cm extrusion profiles attached by a center plastic mount. On your side you should have only 1x70cm aluminum extrusion

Finish

List of parts

  •  6 side covers

Take the 6 side covers that look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Place them in front of the far sides of the extrusion profiles. You might need to push a little bit in order to properly position them.

 

 

 

 


Push them entirely with some force. If you struggle too much use a hammer and slightly hit the flat side of the side covers, then they should get inside easily.

 

 

 

 


 

Final result

Z axis assembly (Vertical)

List of parts :

  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 8 x M3x8mm screws
  • 1 x Stepper motor with 1m lead wire
  • 1 x Stepper motor with 1.2meter lead wire
  • 1 x Right plastic motor support
  • 1 x Left plastic motor support
  • 2 x M8 threaded rods
  • 2 x couplers
  • 2 x 8mm x 435mm smooth rods
  • 1 x Top right rod holder plastic part
  • 1 x Top left rod holder plastic part
  • [Provided] 1 x Allen key
  • [Not Provided] 1 x cruciform screw diver
  • [Not Provided] 1 x hammer
  • [Not Provided] 1 x bubble level

 

Stepper motor assembly

List of parts :

  • 2 motors
  • 4 M6x12mm screws
  • 4 M6 T-Nuts
  • 8 M3x8mm screws
  • 1 Right plastic motor support
  • 1 Left plastic motor support
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key
  • [Not Provided] 1 cruciform screw diver
  • [Not Provided] 1 hammer

Start by preparing the 2 stepper motors.

You will have 2 symmetrical motor holders. One is for the right side, and the other one is the the left side.

Prepare M6x12 screws and their T-Nuts. Place them inside the 2 holes near the rounded corner of the part.

Take 4 M3x8mm screws and fix the motor and the support together.

Important Note: The motor support on the picture below is the Right motor support. The stepper motor with 1.2meter lead wire is to be screwed on this support.

In order to ease the assembly later on, make sure that the motor wires are places on the reinforced lateral side of the plastic part. It can also be placed on the same side as the M6X12 screws.

The wires are on the right for the right motor, and on the left for the left motor.

Place each motor at the base of the chassi so that the bottom of the motor is in contact with the chassis as shown on the picture.

Here it’s the right motor with the 1.2 lead wire.

 

 

 


This front view show the stepper motor in contact with the chassis. It will allow the stepper motor to increase it’s capacity to stay cool.

 

 

 


Also notice the M6 Screw location regarding the plastic part.

 

 

 

 


Now same thing for the left side of the chassis,with the motor wires on the left of it or behind, and the screws on the inside of the chassis.

 

 

 


Here is a view with both stepper motor in place.

 

 

 

 


This general view gives you another point of view of the assembly.

 

 

 

 


 

Preparation of side mounts

List of parts :

  • 2 M8 threaded rods
  • 2 5X8 couplers
  • [Provided] 1 small allen key

Take 1 threaded rod and a coupler.

 

 

 

 

 


The 5×8 coupler has 1 side the a hole of 5mm and the other side with a 8mm diameter hole.

This pictures shows the 5mm side of the coupler

 

 


Here the other 8mm side of the coupler.

 

 

 

 


Push the threaded rod inside the 8mm side of the coupler up to the end.

Do the same for the second threaded rod.

 

 

 

 


Side mounts setup

List of parts :

  • Scalar XL: 2 x 500mm smooth rods
  • Scalar M: 2 x 435mm smooth rods
  • 2 top rod holders
  • 4 M6x12mm screws
  • 4 M6 T-Nuts
  • 1 X axis (previously assembled)
  • 2 threaded rods with their couplers (already assembled)
  • [Not provided] 1 hammer

Start by preparing the screws and Nut on the plastic part.

 

 

 

Note: The more recent Z axis smooth rods supports are very close to this picture.

The central guide for the Threaded rod has been removed because it deforms it leading to some bad quality prints.

 

 

 

 


Scalar XL: Also take 1 x 500mm smooth rod

Scalar M: Also take 1x 435mm smooth rod

 

 

 

 


Now insert it inside the hole at the outside of the plastic part.

Use a hammer to push it inside.

Slightly hit the plain side of the plastic part to keep it intact.

 

 


Scalar XL: Push the smooth rod inside the plastic part until the length inside is about 1 finger index long.

 

Scalar M: Push the smooth rod inside the plastic part until the length inside is about 1 finger index long minus 1 cm.

 

 

 


Do the same for the second side mount.

 

 

 

 


Scalar XL: Now take the X axis previously assembled, and insert the threaded rod so the the top goes out of also 1 finger index long.

 

Scalar M: Now take the X axis previously assembled, and insert the threaded rod so the the top goes out of also 1 finger index long minus 1 cm.Now take the X axis previously assembled, and insert the threaded rod so the the top goes out of also 1 finger index long minus 1 cm.

 

 

 


Continue with the second side. You should have something like the picture:

 

 

 

 


Now slowly slide the smooth rods inside the linear bearings on each side of the X axis.

 

 

 


Slowly approach the smooth rod from the linear bearing. Slide them very slowly inside and « DON’T FORCE« .

WARNING: The LM8UU  linear bearings are made with very small balls. If the smooth rod is not aligned with the bearing, and if you add force, the balls might get out of the bearing.

 

 


At the top level of the assembly, slowly slide the threaded rod inside the top mount plastic part as shown in the picture.

 

 

 

 


Do the same for the other side.

 

 

 

 


In the end you should have something like the picture :

 

 

 

 

 

 


Installation of the side mounts:

List of parts :

  • 1 side mount previously prepared
  •  [Provided]1 allen key
  •  [Provided]1 small allen key
  • [ Not Provided] 1 Hammer

Place the side mounts on top of the stepper motor.

Start by the left side of the chassis.

Align the coupler with the threaded rod.

 

 


Push it up to the end. You can use a hammer and give some small sharp hits on the  smooth rod in order to push it in it’s dedicated hole on the side on the plastic holder.

 

 

 


Then align the top side of the mount so that the screws can fit the top aluminum extrusion slots

 

 

 

 


Once aligned, just slightly screw 1 of the screws in order to prevent this side of the mount from moving.

 

 

 


On the other side of the mount (right side) start by aligning the threaded rod with the coupler and the smooth rod inside it’s dedicated slot.

 

 

 


Maybe you will need to align the whole side of the mount slightly using a hammer. You need to make sure this side of the mount is perfectly vertical.

Take a hammer and hit the middle of the X axis Idler  until the side of the mount is perfectly vertical.

 

 


Now align the top mounts screws with the top Aluminum extrusion slot .

 

 

 

 

 


Leveling:

List of parts :

  • 1 Z axis mount
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key
  • [Provided] 1 small Allen key
  • [Not Provided] 1 hammer
  • [Not Provided] 1 bubble level

Take the bubble level and align the right side mount vertically by placing the bubble level  as shown in the picture.

 

 

 


The Bubble we are interested in the the one always horizontal. It must be in the middle of the 2 lines.

 

 

 

 


Once aligned you can tighten the screws on the top side mount. Make sure that the T-Nut rotate properly inside the Slot .

 

 

 


Now go on the left side and reposition your bubble level .

 

 

 

 


Check that the level is correct and the bubble in the middle on the 2 lines.

If not, you need to unscrew the top screw and adjust the top position in order to align the bubble in the middle of the 2 lines.

 

 

 


Once both side aligned you should have something similar to the photo

X axis assembly (Horizontal)

Front view of the assembled part Back view of the assembled part
Scalar M: Pre assembled X carriage Scalar XL: Pre assembled X axis

Scalar XL List of parts :

  • 2 x 660x10mm
  • 3 x LM10UU bearings
  • 2 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 1 M3x16 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 x XMI 10 plastic part (Idler support)
  • 1 x XMII 10 (motor support)
  • [Not provided] 1 x hammer
  • [Non provided] 1 x bubble level

Scalar M List of parts :

  • 2 x 435x8mm
  • 3 x LM8UU bearings
  • 2 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 1 M3x16 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 x XMI 8 plastic part (Idler support)
  • 1 x XMII 8 (motor support)
  • [Not provided] 1 x hammer
  • [Non provided] 1x  bubble level

 

Scalar XL: Take the plastic part marked XMII and 2 660mm long, 10mm diameters smooth rods

 

Scalar M: Take the plastic part marked XMII and 2 x  435 long, 8mm diameters smooth rods

 

 

 

 


Approche the smooth rodes from the plastic part

 

 

 

 


Scalar XL: Push the rods inside the round slot on the plastic part of about 4.3cm . The pictures shows you how much the smooth rod is inside the plastic part.

 

Scalar M: Push the rods inside the round slot on the plastic part of about 2.5cm .

 

 


If you struggle in pushing the smooth rod inside , use a hammer and give some small sharp hits on the other side of the smooth rods. They will get inside little by little.

 

 

 


Here the pictures shows 1 smooth rod completely inside and the other one in the process of getting inside.

 

 

 

 


Once both smooth rods are in place, you will have something similar to the picture.

Notice on the picture that the top of the plastic part is indeed at the bottom of the picture.

 

 

 


Scalar XL: Once both smooth rods inside their slots, insert 2 x LM10UU bearings on the top rod and only 1 on the bottom rod.

Scalar M: Once both smooth rods inside their slots, insert 2 x LM8UU bearings on the top rod and only 1 on the bottom rod.

 

You can figure out what is the top side easily. The marking is made so that when you read it on the proper side.

 

Pre assembled kit: Inside the pre assembled kit, the X carriage will already be mounted with the Linear bearings .You need to position it as shown on this picture.

 

 


Scalar XL: Once the bearings are in place, take the other plastic part marked XMI 10 And push the available sides of the smooth rods inside.

Scalar M: Once the bearings are in place, take the other plastic part marked XMI 8 And push the available sides of the smooth rods inside.

 

This side should be easy to insert.

 

 


Once the smooth rods inside push the plastic part so that the rods are on the edge of the plastic part.

 

 

 

 


You can use a hammer and hit the middle of the plastic part if you struggle doing it!

 

 

 


Here is the result if you have it right.

Vue face Vue arrière

X axis with the pre assembled X carriage

Y Axis assembly

List of parts : (Video)

  • 1 YM1 marked stepper motor plastic support
  • 4 M3x8mm screws
  • 1 GT2 16 teeth pulley
  • 1 48mm stepper motor
  • 1 625ZZ bearing
  • 2 625ZZ compatible plastic washers
  • 1 stretcher support
  • 1 plastic bearing cage
  • 1 fork shaped plastic part
  • 3 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 Nuts
  • 2 M3x25mm screws
  • [Provided] 1 clef Allen
  • [Not provided] 1 cruciform screw diver

Stepper motor support assembly (Video)

List of parts :

  • 1 YM1 plastic support
  • 4 M3x8mm screws
  • 1 GT2 16 teeth pulley.
  • 1 48mmstepper motor
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key
  • [Not Provided] 1 screw diver

 


Start by placing the plastic part over the stepper motor.

For some wiring consideration, make sure that the stepper motor wires are placed on the same side as the big hole on the side of the plastic part as shown on the picture.

 

 


Insert and screw the 4 M3X8mm screws at each corners of the plastic part.

If you have a magnetized screw diver, this will help you achieve that.

If not you can use the cylindrical imprints on each corners to slide the screws up to it’s final location.This should help you to screw everything together

 


Once all 4 screws in place, you should have something like on the picture:

 

 

 

 


Then insert the pulley on the motor shaft. The small slot at the bottom of the picture should be aligned with the middle of the pulley

 

 

 


 

Stretcher assembly (Video)

 

List of parts :

  • 1 625ZZ bearing
  • 2 plastic washers for 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 stretcher support
  • 1 plastic cage for bearing
  • 1 fork shaped plastic stretcher
  • 3  M3 washers
  • 2 M3 Nuts
  • 2 M3x25mm screws
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key
  • [Not Provided] 1 screw diver

Start by taking the 2 small plastic washers and insert them inside the bearing.

 

 

 

 


This picture shows you how to « clips » the washers inside the bearing

 

 

 

 


Then insert the bearing inside the dedicated plastic cage.

 

 

 

 


Here is a back view of the assembly.

 

 

 

 


Take the fork shaped plastic stretcher and place in the middle of the fork the bearing assembly. Then add a M3x25with a washer on one side and close it with a washer and a M3 Nut.


Now insert on the small slot on the side of the fork stretcher a M3 Nut that should fit perfectly inside.


Take a moment to make sure that the hole of the Nut is aligned with the one of the Fork stretcher at the back of it.

 

 

 


The final part should look like the picture:

 

 

 

 


A side view of the part showing the Nut and it’s washer.

 

 

 

 


Now take the Stretcher support and insert a Screw and a washer on the back side of it.

This picture shows the front view of the support and you can see in the middle of the slot the screw coming toward us.

 

 

 


This pictures shows the other side of the same part, with the screw and it’s washer.

 

 

 

 


Insert the previously assembled part inside, make sure the triangular shape of the stretcher fits inside the support, and slightly screws the stretcher on the screw to keep everything together.

 

 


Tensioner Installation (Video)

List of parts :

  • 2 x M6x12mm Screw
  • 2 x M6 T-nut 8mm
  • Previously mounted Stretcher

Place the tensioner at the middle of the front extrusion profile

Scalar M: 200mm from the side of the chassis

Scalar XL: 300mm from the side of the chassis.

(See the video link for more details)

 


Motor Instalaltion (Video)

List of parts :

  • 1 x M6x12mm Screw
  • 1 x M6 T-nut 8mm
  • Previously mounted Motor assembly

Place the motor assembly on the opposite side of the chassis, at the middle of the extrusion profile.

Scalar M: 200mm from the side of the chassis

Scalar XL: 300mm from the side of the chassis.

(See the video link for more details)


 

Belt Installation (Video)

List of parts :

  • 1 Meter of GT belt
  • 3 x 2.5x100mm cable ties

 

 

 

 

The goal is to link the belt tensioner, the motor and the belt holder all together using the GT belt.


 

Stretching the belt (Video)

The video shows you how to use the belt stretcher.

 

Build platform assembly

List of parts :

  • 4 LM8UU bearing supports (Plastic)
  • 4 linear bearingsLM8UU (If they are not already mounted on their supports, please mount them)
  • 10 wood screws
  • Scalar XL: 1 wood plate 435x320mm
  • Scalar M: 1 wood plate 300x220mm
  • 4 plate supports (Plastic)
  • 8 M6X12mm screws
  • 8 T Nuts
  • 4 cable ties
  • [not provided] 1 philips screw diver
  • [not provided] 1 hammer
  • [not provided] 1 pen
  • [not provided] 1 ruler (ideally 30 to 40 cm)

Wood plate preparation

List of parts :

  • 4 LM8UU linear bearing supports
  • 4 LM8UU linear bearings
  • 10 wood screws
  • Scalar XL: 1 wood plate 435x320mm
  • Scalar M: 1 wood plate 300x220mm
  • [not provided] screw diver
  • [not provided] hammer
  • [not provided] pen
  • [not provided] ruler (ideally 30 to 40 cm)

 

Scalar XL: Here are the different measurements of the plastic parts below the headbed.:

 

 

 

 

 


 

Scalar M: Here are the same measurements for the Scalar M heatbed

 

 

 

 

 


Note importante:

On he previous pictures, you will notice a red plastic part.  It correspond to the linear bearing holder with a special hole for the adjustment screw.

 

 

 

 


This plastic part is to be placed in front of the smooth rod holders with the embedded end stop. An adjustment screw will later on be installed

 

 

 

 


Take your wooden plate and face it so that the length of it goes from your left to your right and the height from the bottom to the top.

Now consider your starting point to be the lower left corner of the wooden plate.

Scalar XL:Take a ruler and measure 105mm (10,5cm) from the bottom of the plate as shown on the picture.

Scalar M: Same operation but with 15mm (1.5cm)

 


Do the same all along the bottom of the plate in order to trace a straight line parallel to the bottom of the plate.

 

(Scalar XL) 105mm / (Scalar M) 15mm

 

 

 


Take the last point on the right side of the plate.

 

 

 

 


Trace a line from the left to the right passing by all your points at  (Scalar XL) 105mm / (Scalar M) 15mm from the bottom of the plate.

 

 

 

 


Do exactly the same but for the top of the plate:

 

 

 

 


Take some intermediary points:

 

 

 

 


And the last one on the right side.


Now trace again the straight line passing by all your previous points located at (Scalar XL) 105mm / (Scalar M) 15mm from the top of the plate.

 

 

 

 


From the last line measure (Scalar XL) 208mm / (Scalar M) 141mm from the left of the plate right on the line you have just traced at the top of the plate.

 

 

 


Do the same with the line at the bottom :

 

 

 

 


Join both points with a straight line.

 

 

 

 


Now take a your starting point this new line perpendicular to the bottom of the plate. Measure (Scalar XL) 28mm  / (Scalar M) 65mm from the bottom line

 

 


Now trace a quick line of 2 or 3cm parallel at the bottom line.

 

 

 

 


 

bearing placement:

List of parts :

  • 4 LM8UU linear bearings (1 has an embedded hole for an adjustment screw )
  • 10 wood screws
  • Scalar XL: 1 wooden plate 435x320mm
  • Scalar M: 1 wooden plate 300x220mm
  • [not provided] screw diver
  • [not provided] hammer
  • [not provided] 1 pen

Take the first linear bearing and place it along the left side of the wooden plate, jut above the bottom line you traced earlier:( Warning: On this picture the plastic part is outdated)

 

 

 


Take the second linear bearing and this time place it below the top line you trace earlier:

 

 

 


Do the same for the right side of the plate:

Place the belt holder plastic part in the middle of the plate. The back of the plastic part is to be placed on the right of the vertical line you traced on the center of the plate and just above the very last small vertical line you traced.

The picture should be very explicit.

 

 


Here is a view of everything positioned on the wooden plate.

 

 

 

 


Take a pen and make a mark at the location of each screw holes on the plastic parts.

Take one of the wood screw (you can take a bigger one to make it easier for your on this step). Point on each mark and give it a small hammer hit in order to create a starting point for the small wooden screws.

 

 

 


Then take a screw diver and start to insert the screws inside the marked spots. This will help you later on when fixing the different plastic parts, and should make it easier for you.

 

 

 


Once done, place back each elements on the plate.

We advise you to insert only 3 screws by side in order to make it easier later when you will insert the smooth rods.

Here is an example of the left side of the plate with only 3 screws

 


Then start by pushing the 435mm smooth rod along the left side of the bearings.

 

 

 

 


If you aligned everything properly, the smooth rod should get through the 2 linear bearings easily.

In certain cases, the smooth rod is slightly tilted because the bearing support is not properly aligned.Here having only 3 screws will allow you to adjust easily

 

 


Once the smooth rod has passed through the bearing and they are all aligned, you can insert the last 4th wood screw.

 

 

 


Do the same on the right side

 

 

 

 


You should have something like this picture

 

 

 

 


Make sure you insert the last screw.

 

 

 

 


Now place the middle plastic part and insert the 2 wooden screws.

 

 

 

 


 

Positioning of the build platform on the chassis:

 

List of parts:

  • 4 plate supports (1 with an embeeded end stop)
  • 8 M6X12mm screws
  • 8 T-Nuts
  • 1 previously mounted chassis
  • 4 cable ties
  • [provided] 1 Allen key
  • [not provided] 1 ruler

Now take the plates supports

 

 

 

 


Prepare them with 2 sets of M6 Screw/T-Nuts

 

 

 

 


Do it for all 4 parts

 

 

 

 


On each corner measure from the side of the chassis

 

Scalar XL: 72,5mm

Scalar M:  40mm

 

 


Do that on the 4 base corners of the printer:

 

 

 

 


Here is the back right corner

 

 

 

 


Here is the back left corner.

Special Note:

In this corner you will place the smooth rod holder with the embedded end stop .

 

The image shows the end result. The end stop should be in front of the LM8UU linear bearing support with the adjustment screw holder.

 

 

 

 

 


Place the supports inside the slots so that the top cable tie slots are always facing inside the chassis.

The border of the supports is to be positioned on each mark with the body of the plastic parts most on the inside of the printer

 

 

 


Now screw only 2 supports out of 4.The easier way is to screw either the right side or the left sides of the chassis and keep the other side unscrewed.

 

 

 


here is what it should look like

 

 

 

 

This 3D view is more up to date, and shows you where the smooth rods holder are located and also where the holder with the end stop is placed.

 

 

 

 

 


Now place the wooden plate smooth rods on the supports. What might happen is that one side will be slightly outside of it’s support.

The picture shows you an example

 

 


Here is a zoom showing that the smooth rod is not properly aligned with the support

 

 

 

 


In this case you just need to slide the support so that the smooth rod fit into the slot (here we shifted it left).

 

 

 


Then adjust the position of the smooth rod inside the slots.The smooth rods are a little bit shorter so you will need to center them in the middle of their support.

here an example of a smooth rods that needs to be centered:

 

 


Here the smooth rods has been centered.

The main goal is to keep the smooth rods in place using cable ties.

 

 

 


Once properly placed you should have something like this:

 

 

 

 


Slide the plate to both ends to check that everything is smooth.

 

 

 


Once the place is sliding fluently, you can tighten the smooth rods with the cable ties

Make sure to place the head of the cable ties on the side to allow a free movement of the plate.

 

Extruder Assembly

List of parts for E3D Hot end

List of parts for standard Hot end

Listof parts :

  • 2 M3X60mm screws
  • 2 vis M3x30mm screws
  • 4 vis M3x8mm screws
  • 4 M3 Washer
  • 4 M3 nuts
  • 2 3mm compression spring
  • 2 M4x20mm screws
  • 2 M4 nuts
  • 1 M8x60  hobbed bolt
  • 4 M8 Washer
  • 2 M8 nut
  • 1M8 nylstop nut
  • 3 608ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic Washer
  • 1 cylinder 8x20mm
  • 1 48mm stepper motor
  • 1 pneumatic connector (plastic or metalic)
  • 1 extruder set of plastic parts
  • 1 support for the extruder compatible with 30×30 extrusions

Bearing bloc assembly:

 

List of parts :

  • 1 cylinder 8x20mm
  • 1 608zz bearing
  • 1 plastic part

 

 

 

 


 

Take the 608zz bearing and the small cylinder.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Insert the cylinder inside the bearing so that the bearing is centered on it:

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now tack the plastic part and push the bearing inside the dedicated slot, it should snap inside:

 

 

 

 

 


 

You can use some flat pliers to push it inside the slot if it’s too hard.

 

 

 

 


 

Main body assembly:

 

List of parts :

  • 1 previously assembled bearing part
  • 1 M3x30mm screw
  • 1 M3 washer
  • 1 extruder main body (buda)

 

 

Now take the main extruder’s body (also called « buda« )  and a M3x30mm screw and it’s washer.

Place the idler on the side of the main body, you will find a special hole to screw the idler on it.

 


 

Fix the idler on it until the screw blocks. The idler must still be able to rotate around the screw freely

 

 

 

 


 

Main body preparation:

 

List of parts :

  • Main extruder body already mounted
  • 2 M3x 60 screws
  • 2 M3 compression springs
  • 2 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 Nuts
  • 2 608ZZ bearings
  • 1 plastic washer

 


 

Insert the M3X60mm screws with their washer and compression spring at the top of the main body. You should find 2 special holes where the screws can go. On the top you will also find 2 small slots, big enough to insert 2 M3 nuts. You will then need to screw the long screws inside those nuts to hold the whole system together.

 

 


 

Turn the main body and insert the plastic washer inside the round as shown on the picture. The washer is slightly tilted so that you can see it properly on the picture, but you must push it all the way inside the slot.

 

 

 

 


Now insert the 608ZZ bearing in over the plastic washer. It should come at the same level as the main body as on the picture.

 

 

 

 


 

Now turn the extruder and insert the 2nd bearing inside the similar slot.

 

 

 


 

Preparation of the stepper motor and the gear wheels:

List of parts :

  • 1 M3 Nut
  • 1 small geared plastic wheel
  • 1 big plastic wheel
  • 1 48mm stepper motor
  • 1 M3x8mm screw
  • 1  M8x60 hobbed bolt
  • 4 M8 whashers

 

Take the small geared wheel and inside a M3 nut inside the small slot at the bottom of the wheel.

 

 

 

 


 

Take good care to align the nut hole with the hole on the side of the plastic wheel

 

 

 

 


 

Push the wheel on the stepper motor shaft and secure it with a M3x8mm screw

 

 

 

 


 

Take the big wheel and the M8x60 hobbed bolt with 4 metal washers:

 

 

 

 


 

Insert the Hobbed bolt inside the Plastic wheel. Take care to place the screw hex head so that it goes straight inside the hex shaped slot on the wheel:

 

 

 

 


 

Return the wheel and lay it flat

 

 

 

 

 


 

Insert the 4 metallic washers

 

 

 

 

 


 

Place the whole assembly back on the main body of the extruder as shown on the picture:

 

 

 

 

 


 

Place the the stepper motor behind so that the small wheel is properly aligned with the big wheel. Secure the motor with a first M3x8mm screw.

 

 

 

 


The next picture shows you where is the 2nd slot for the screw.

The 3rd screw has to be installed just near the bottom of the extruder, you should figure it easily.

 

 

 


 

You can now tighten the big wheel by using 2 M8 nuts side by side

Make sure to slightly tighten the wheel , because the wheel must always move freely without too much force on it, else the whole assembly will get stuck and your stepper motor won’t be able to push this wheel

You can then tighten the 2 M8 Nuts one against the other and help yourself with 2 hex keys

Now you can place the optional Nylstop nut (the nut with some plastic inside) to prevent any Nut from going out


 

Last part

List of parts :

  • 2 M3x30 screws with hex head
  • 2 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 nuts
  • 1 plastic part
  • 1 Allen key

 

Prepare the screws and the washers.

Screw them inside the small holes at the very bottom of the main body. The goal here is to fix the plastic part on the bottom of the main body.

Notice however that one side of the plastic part is flat and the other one is not. make sure to insert it the proper side

 

 


 

Before  screwing up to the end, make sure you put some M3 nuts on the other side of the main body. This part is optional however as the screws should be far enough to keep the whole thing together

 

 

 

 


 

Now prepare the extruder support.

Place it as showed in the picture, and insert 2 M4x30 screws.

On the opposite side you will find 2 M4 nut slots. Place 2 M4 nuts inside and screw everything together.

 

 


 

Take the pneumatic connector and insert it on the side of the extruder support. There is a hole big enough to accept the connector. Go slowly to prevent the extruder support from braking.

The picture here shows the metallic pneumatic connector in place

 

 

 


 

On this picture you have the example of the plastic pneumatic connector

 

 

 

X axis belt setup

List of parts

  • 3 M3x20 screw
  • (Scalar XL) 1 M3x50 screw
  • (Scalar M) 1 M3x30 screw
  • 1 M3 nut
  • 1 M3 washer
  • 2 plastic washers
  • 1 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic cage for 625ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic fork stretcher
  • 1m40 GT2 2mm belt
  • (Scalar XL) 1 XCA 10 plastic support
  • (Scalar M) 1 XCA 8 plastic support
  • 1 GT2 16 teeth pulleys
  • 5 cable ties
  • 1 stepper motor
  • [provided] 1 allen key
  • [not provided] 1 cruciform screw diver
  • [not provided] 1 cutting pliers or pair of scissors

 

Insert the bearing inside the plastic cage

 

 

 

 


Insert the plastic washers on the bearing

 

 

 

 


Place the bearing block inside the Fork plastic support as shown on the picture

 

 

 

 


Insert a  M3x20 screw + M3 washer and then close the whole system with a M3 nut.

 

 

 

 


If the carriage is already mounted you can scroll down to skip this part.

On X Axis slightly space the linear bearings and move them on the center on the axis.

 

 

 

 


The following steps explain how to assemble the X carriage called XCA 10 for Scalar XL and XCA 8 for Scalar M. You can now check that it properly fit on the bearings.

 

 

 

 


Place on the carriage 3 cable ties. In order to make things easier, be careful to properly place the cable tie heads on the outside of the plastic part as shown on the picture.

Also make sure the heads have at least 1 or 2cm of free length, this will makes things easier later on when you will tight them up.

 

 


The back view will give you more access to the cable ties and will make it easier to handle them.

 

 

 

 


Tight the cable ties so that the ties heads stay at the outside of the part.This will allows to have more free room for the belt later on.

 

 

 


Front view, the carriage looks like the picture.

Notice the cable ties that enroll the bearing.

 

 

 


Now take a stepper motor and 3 M3x20mm screws

 

 

 

 


Place the stepper motor on the left of the X axis.

The wires from the stepper motor needs to be oriented toward the machine .

 

 

 


Screw it entirely on it’s support.

 

 

 

 


The back view shows you how to position the cables. They will then be place inside the aluminum extrusion slot later on.

 

 

 


Now , install the pulley on the motor axis. Place it as shown on the picture so that the thicker part of the pulley is facing the opposite of the motor. This will allow you to properly align the pulley’s teeth with the belt slot on the stepper motor support.

 

 

 


This side you should help you understand how to align the pulley with the belt slot.

 

 

 

 


Now take the belt stretcher that you assembled at the beginning of this chapter.

 

 

 

 


Scalar M: Take also a M3x30 screw, a washer and a M3 nut.

Scalar XL: Take also a M3x50 screw, a washer and a M3 nut.

Place the nut inside the belt stretcher, there is a dedicated slot on the side of it.

The washer will be mounted on the screw and will help to tighten the stretcher.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Use the tensioner support and place it at the end of the X axis smooth rods.It’s purpose is to make sure the tensioner will force on the X axis smooth rods ends and not on the Horizontal Z axis smooth rods.

 

 


Place the screw and it’s washer on the side of the right side of the X axis.

She should be free and be fully inside.

 

 

 


Now place the stretcher inside the dedicated slot on the same plastic part.

Notice the triangular shape slot. The stretcher should be able to get inside properly.

 

 


Slightly screw the stretcher with the side screw.

The purpose here is to make sure the stretcher is in place and that we have the maximum amount of possible movement to stretch the belt later on.

 

 

 


A side picture showing the gap between the stretcher and the X axis plastic part. The screw should be able to move freely when moving the stretcher. (the tensioner support is missing on this picture)

 

 

 

 


This picture shows you how much length is available once the stretcher is fully pushed inside it’s slot. (the tensioner support is missing on this picture)

 

 

 

 


Depending how the belt is provided you will need to cut the 2.5m meter length of it or they will already be provided with the proper length.

 

 

 


Take the 1m40 belt (cut the 2.5meter belt at 1m40 if the belt is provided uncut).

Also take 2 cable ties

 

 

 


Insert the belt inside the slot of the stepper motor holder plastic part.

Insert it at the bottom of the bearings, the belt’s teeth facing the bearings.

 

 


On the other side, handle the belt so that it goes around the pulley.

With the belt’s teeth always facing the pulley.

 

 

 


Another view showing the belt

 

 

 

 


Take care to push the belt on top of the bearings. The bearing will keep the belt straight to the X axis carriage so that when the motor pull or push the belt, it’s always rectilinear and parallel to the smooth rods.

Then pull the belt so that at least 10cm are available in the void.

 

 


Now go the other side of the X axis, and take the bottom part of your belt.

Push it behind the X carriage.

 

 

 


Now insert it behind the stretcher. If you struggle you can unscrew the stretcher, pass the belt and then screw back the stretcher.

 

 

 


Here is a picture of the belt once inserted behind the stretcher.

 

 

 

 


Bring both ends of the belt together.

Those 2 ends must be located at the top of the overall belt assembly.

If you have the proper length, the belt should slight cross  with enough free belt.

Place it in the center of the X carriage

 


Take one end of your belt and push it inside the tight gap dedicated to keep the belt into position, between the 2 linear bearings.You might need to force a little bit so that the belt is slightly smashed between the plastic.

You can use your nails to push the belt up to the end of the slot.

 

 


Then round it so that the belt teeth can join. make sure you have extra length, you will need it to secure the belt later on.

 

 

 

 


Do the same on the other side of the belt.

At this moment try to pull the belt a maximum already so that it’s quite stretched .

Whatever you do, the belt will keep a small flexibility. It’s normal, the side stretcher will cope with that later on.

 


Insert a cable tie and start to close it but keep it loose. One side of the belt must fully be inside the closing cable tie. the picture illustrate this..

 

 

 


Now close the cable tie but make sure the belt stay aligned and parallel to the smooth rods. The belt must always be aligned at the top to keep the mechanical motion of the carriage linear.

 

 

 


Do the same with the other side of the belt.

 

 

 

 


Once finished it should look like the photo.

 

 

 

 


Take a screw diver and stretch the belt max . Make sure not to bend the Z axis however.

You know that your belt is stretched when it seems very hard by pressing on it.

Considering the length of the belt, even when properly stretched, it might still seem a little bit flexible or might vibrate a little bit. It’s normal it shouldn’t bother that much the printing but might impact the maximum acceleration you can use on that axis.