Archives de catégorie : Extruder


Comparison in image between Genuine Bondtech BMG and the copy

When comparing, we can notice several differences:

  • The copy kit seems more complete
  • The provided output adaptor in PLA (for CR-10 versions) is perfect for this kind of application. An aliminum bowden connector can be provided as an option on the original kit.
  • The tensioning spring system is provided with a plastic washer that is attached to the tensioning screw inside the original kit . This prevent you from loosing the spring, which is pretty frequent with the copy version
  • The extrusion gear of the original model is clean, the copy counterpart is full of grease.
  • If we compare both models side by side, we can see slight differences in term of dimensions. The Original version is much better aligned, all the gears cannot hit each others.
  • The extrusion gear on the original version has teeth close fit for the 1.75mm filament. The dedicated zone with the teeth is optimal. On the copy side, this same zone is more evaded, so the contact zone with the filament is less efficient.
  • The filament is better guided on the original enclosure  then on the copy version. You have nearly no play between the teeth and the enclosure. In the other side you have a big gap between the teeth and the enclosure. Flexible filament will likely slip inside the gap on the copy version.
  • Metal insert of the copy version is over molded. This seems to be  better quality at first look. However when it comes to installing the tensioning screw, it’s much more difficult to fit the screw of the copy version because the insert is far back, compressing the spring as the screw has yet hit the threaded insert. It can become tricky to do it. On the original version is quite easy and you won’t even see a problem here.
  • The teeth’s shapes of the reduction gear are sightly different on both models.
  • The Original Bondtech version is also lighter of 8g compared to the copy version! (so it’s about 12% more mass of the original version)
  • The junction between the 2 body sides of the copy version has a play of about 1 to 2m. The original version is well fit.
  • When we close the moving gear latch, we can see that the extrusion gear of the copy version will hit the extruder body . It doesn’t happen on the  Original version.

En conclusion

This comparison is given as information purpose only. It has no mean into telling you which model is better or which one to buy.

This article gives you as much comparison elements as possible. We might have missed some.

Depending on your status, 1 of the 2 models will better fit your need. If you are more budget or performance oriented.

Upgrade double extrusion E3D chimera

Dual Extrusion upgrade – E3D Chimera

Upgrade Double Extrusion E3D Chimera

The kit contains:

  • 1 motor kit+ extruder + stepper motor driver
  • 2 meters of PTFE tubing
  • 1 screw set
  • 1 E3D Chimera kit
  • 1 fan extender board

E3D Chimera installation guide

You will find the installation guide on the E3D official website

Necessary plastic parts

You will find the needed plastic parts on thingiverse. they are compatible with Scalar 3D printers. You will need the following parts:

Hot end installation

You need 3 M3x8 screws in order to attach the hot end heat-sink on the plastic holder Use the screws from the back of the plastic part to hold the hot end in place. 1 M3x20 thermoplastic screw in to be installed on the hole behind the inductive probe support Install you inductive probes Finally, using 3 M3x10 screws, attach everything on the  X carriage starting from the 2nd hole from the top
E3D Chimera Dual extrusion upgrade

Extruders motors installation on the chassis

double extrusion E3D chimera, installation des moteurs d'extrusion
Extrusion motors are to be installed on the top of your chassis You can attache them on the spool holders extrusions as follow.
The 2 pneumatic connectors are to be installed at the output of the extruders. They will hold the ptfe tubing later on. In the kit you should have 2 extrusion gears. Make sure to install them both, 1 on each extruder. the goal here is to have the same extrusion gear on each extruder to make things easier later on. You will need to calibrate your Control>Motion>Estep/mm after you update your firmware.

PTFE tubing installation

You can now install the ptfe Tubing between the hot end and the different extruders. Important note: the left heating block corresponds to the extruder E0, and the right side heating block corresponds to the extruder E1 You need to cut the tube to length so that they are as short as possible and still guaranty smooth motion all over the print volume. A good tip would be to make sure that the hot end nozzle is as low as possible (near touching the bed) before cutting the tube, in order to have an optimal tube length.

Nozzle alignment

You can now align your 2 nozzles:
  • Make sure that your X axis is as parallel to your heat bed as possible
  • Lower the hot end until 1 nozzle is touching the bed
  • Using the 2 small screws on the side of the heat-sink, you can adjust the 2nd nozzle to that it also touches the bed.

Electronic wiring

Here is the wiring diagram of the E3D Chimera dual extrusion upgrade
Dual extrusion E3D Chimera Wiring diagram

Extruder 2 (E1) installation

You first need to install the driver for your new extruder motor on the remaining driver slot. Warning! Carefully note the driver orientation, the location of the small heat-sink and the small round potentiometer. They must be on the same orientation as the other drivers

Stepper motor driver calibration

You will now calibrate the stepper motor driver using a Ceramic screws driver (provided with Scalar L/ XLP)

Reminder on the Ceramic screw driver

This screw driver is electrically insulated. It’s used to adjust potentiometers when powered If you are using a standard non insulated screw driver you may damage your stepper driver.
tourne vis céramique
For the calibration purpose you will also need a multi-meter with the  2V DC caliber selected  (or similar).
  • Place the multi-meter black probe on the  USB connector metallic shielding of the arduino board (blue) located below the Ramps board (red).
  • Place the red probe over the small round potentiometer located next to the heat sink
  • Measure the voltage, you want 0.850mV
  • Using the ceramic screw driver, turn the potentiometer clockwise to increase the voltage.
  • Turn counter clockwise to decrease the voltage.

Fan extender board installation

RRD fan extender
This board is used to replace the power transistor that you re-used for your second hot end heater cartridge. You will need it to power your PLA cooling fan. Install it over the « servo » extension pins on the ramps 1.4 board (same for MKS gen boards)
This board need an external power supply in order to work. You need to unplug the E3D 30mm cooling fan from the « Y » shape splitter cable. Connect another « Y » splitter cable to it and plug back the 30mm fan to one of the available end. On the remaining end, connect the 20cm Female-Female extender cable. The other end of the cable is to be connected to the 12V input of the fan extender board (here on the left) Warning! take precautions with the polarities! Now connect the PLA cooling blower fan on the D11 location on the fan extender board.

Firmware upgrade

You need to upgrade your firmware in order to take into account your 2nd extruder. The upgrade procedure is located here The compatible firmware are labeled « Dual extrusion Chimera » If you 3D printer version / model is not listed, please make sure to contact us so that we can provide it.

Precautions after upgrading your firmware

  • Check that all your stepper motors are still turning in the proper direction. If not, just flip the motor connector on the electronic board side.
  • You will need to move the location or your existing X axis end stop. Push the hot end left until the right nozzle is located on the edge of the left side of the bed.  The left nozzle must get outside of the bed area. Now push the end stop against the X carriage and you are set.
  • You will also need to adjust ZOffset before printing. The probe tip must be around 1-2mm above the nozzle tip.

Installation of PTFE liner inside E3D lite hot end

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeThe E3D Lite hot end is provided with a PTFE liner

It is destined to be inserted all the way inside the hot end.

it allows the filament to be properly guided inside the hot end. Also it reduces all the friction of the filament with the hot end body.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeA quick connector is available to prevent the liner from going out.

To remove the liner, just push the connector down and pull the liner at the same time.


E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeOnce inside you need to remove the excess of liner

For Scalar S, the total length of the tube must be7.9cm.

It will allow the liner to reach the extrusion gear inside the extruder.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfeThe adaptor part must then be placed on top and go through the left over liner.

The 4 fixation holesmust be aligned with the hot end support holes at the top.

Please note the position of the adaptor shaped as a bat.

E3D Lite installation du tube ptfe

PID auto tune

Temperature management by your 3D printer is often made using PID controller.


  • Pronterface (Windows, Mac)
  • Arduino IDE (optional)
  • 3D printer with active PID for the target heating element

Pronterface installation:

Pronterface is a cross platform host software for your 3D printer. It allows to send commands to your 3D printers in a simple way.

This application is stand alone and doesn’t require any installation

In order to be able to connect to your 3D printer you need to install the serial drivers of your electronic board.

Scalar 3D printers are using arduino MEGA 2560, so you only need to install Arduino IDE in order for the proper drivers to be installed.

Once you have downloaded the proper version of Pronterface , you will need to unzip it’s content in a folder.

Inside you should have the following file tree.

Pronterface PID

At this stage you will need to connect your 3D printer using a USB cable.

Once the drivers are installed, your OS will assign a specific COM port to your 3D printer.

Now you can launch « pronterface.exe »

The following window will appear

Pronterface PID


Depending on your OS you might need the proper user rights in order to acces COM port

Consider running your application as Administrator

Once the drivers for the seria COM port are installed your 3D printer COM port should be visible inside the drop down list of Pronterface (1)

  1. You should see the proper COM port asigned to your Arduino MEGA inside this drop down list
  2. Select the baud rate to 115200Bps (at least for Scalar 3D printers)
  3. Push the Connect button.

Pronterface PID

Once connected you should have a lot of information coming into the console window on the left side of the application.

Pronterface PID

PID Auto tuning

PID auto tune has to be made when your heating element is at Ambient temperature. Otherwise you will get wrong parameters!


In the bottom part of the console view, you have a text box where you can enter single commands for your 3D printers,

Hot end PID

Iin order to perform the PID tuning of your hot end you will need to send the following command :

 M303 E0 S210 C8

E0 is for Extruder 0 (your hot end)  , S210 is the target temperature (here 201°C) and C8 is the amount of iterations to perform , Here 8. The higher the number the more accurate your PID will be.

Pronterface PID

you will need to wait a few minutes in order for the algorithm to converge to a set a values.

Pronterface PIDhere we found out

bias: 92 d: 92 min: 196.56 max: 203.75
Ku: 32.59 Tu: 54.92
Clasic PID
Kp: 19.56
Ki: 0.71
Kd: 134.26
PID Autotune finished ! Place the Kp, Ki and Kd constants in the configuration.h
#define DEFAULT_Kp 17.28
#define DEFAULT_Ki 0.63
#define DEFAULT_Kd 118.87

your PID values will be different from the one here

Take theses PID values into account

Use the following command in order for your controller to take the Ki, Kp, and Kd values into account

 M301 P17.28 I0.63 D118.87

Make sure you have updated the command with the PID values that you found!

Save your settings into the EEPROM


M500 allows to save your settings into the controller EEPRO

Heat bed PID Command

M303 E-1 S60 C8

Take the Heatbed PID values into account

 M304 P1 I2 D3

Save into EEPROM




(source )

Direct drive Extruder Assembly

This page shows the different steps on assembling the Direct Drive  extruder

Direct Drive extruder Assembly

Needed parts

  • 1 Direct drive adaptor
  • 6 M3x8mm thermoplastic screws
  • 2 M3x20mm Thermoplastic screws
  • 1 M4x20mm screws

The starting point

Montage Direct Drive - point de départThis assembly is given for E3Dv6 or E3d Lite6 hot ends.

It may also be used for other types of hot ends

Your hot end bloc must already be assembled with the inductor probe on it.

It should already be installed on your X axis carriage in order to proceed the next steps.

The 30mm fan must be located on the right of the whole bloc with it’s original blue holder.


Direct Drive extruder Assembly

Direct Drive Adaptor

Direct Drive Adaptor

you will need this Direct Drive adaptor that allows to elevate the motor so that it’s free from any obstacle.






Installation de l'adaptateur Direct Driveplace the adaptor on top of the existing hot end holder.









Installation de l'adaptateur Direct Drive

Align the 4 holes with the one located on the hot end support.






Installation de l'adaptateur Direct DriveUse 4 M3x8mm Thermoplastic screws to hold both parts together









Direct drive Extruder Installation

Direct drive Extruder Installation

Place the extruder on top of it and align the 2 holes at the bottom with the one on the Direct Drive adaptor

It has 2 M3 holes that must align properly with the part below










Installation de l'extrudeur direct driveThe assembly should look like this










fixation de l'extrudeur direct drive

fixation de l’extrudeur direct drive

use 2 M3x20mm thermoplastic screws  and tighten both parts together










fixation de l'extrudeur direct drive










blower fan holder

blower fan holder

Use the blower fan holder that should look like the one on the picture.

It will allows to hold in place the blower fan that will cool down the freshly deposed melted plastic









blower fan installation

blower fan installation

you will nee  2 M3x8mm thermoplastic screws

The 2 fixation holes are located on the front of the hot end clamp.








installation du support de turbineDepending which heater block you are using you may adjust the height of the support so that the airflow is directed toward the nozzle tip.







installation du support de turbineOnce installed at the proper height you should get something similar.










installation du support de turbineThe blower fan is then inserted into the dedicated hole on the support. Make sure the blower fan intake is facing you.








blower fan fixation

blower fan fixation

Use 1 M4x20mm screw in order to hold the blower fan attached to it’s holder.










Direct Drive Extruder - final assembly

Direct Drive Extruder – final assembly

PDF 3D: Direct Drive extruder assembly

Extruder Calibration

Why do we need to calibrate our extruder?

It allows you to make sure that the proper amouint of filament is provided to your hotend.

Why do we need to calibrate the extruder on each machine?

The quantity of plastic pushed by the extruder depends mainly on the diameter of the extrusion gear.

Why calibrate the extruder?

It will increase the procission and quality of your prints because the proper amount of plastic will be provided to the hot end..

Why do you need to do this calibration on each machine?

The quantity of plastic pushed inside the hotend depends mainly on the drive gear diameter of the extruder.

This gear is machined with a different tolerance. So the gear diameter will vary from one model to another one and from one brand to another one..

How to proceed?

We adjust the amounts of steps / mm required to push the filament 1mm.

The overall procesdure is as follow:

  1. We extrude a certain length of filament, let’s take 200mm.
  2. We measure with a graduated ruller how much filament has been pushed.
  3. We then use a cross product to adjust the value of our machine.
  4. Then we check that the new value is good by extruding again 200mm and we measure again.
  5. We adjust when needed and we reapeat step 4 ntill we find the proper value.
  6. Finally to ensure the measurment error is very small we extrude 400mm or 600mm  of material (something you can measure with your ruller) , We then slightly adjust the EStep/mm to get our final setting.
  7. At this stage your extruder should be properly calibrated and the quality of your prints should greatly increase.

Step by Step :

  • If you are in Bowden mode, remove the PTFE tue at the exit of the extruder. (You need to push the small cap at the base of the tube and then pull the tube at the same time)
    Then push the filament so that the tip is at the same level as the extruder shell.
  • If you are in Direct drive, you will need to unmount the extruder from it’s support, so that you can measure at the very edge of the extruder exit.
  • Cleanly cut the filament to that it’s easier to measure.

  • The Provided SD card contains a set of Gcode that will help you in this process. You can find them here:


  • You will find severall files (ExtrudeXXXmm.gcode and RetractXXXmm.gcode)

  • Depending the firmware version, you will need to pre heat your hot end before extruding.
  • With your LCD browse inside the SD card into the folder  and print « Extrude200mm.gcode » .

  • Measure how many mm of filament is extruded. (IMake sure to use a fine Ruller to avoid measurements issues)

  • In order to make sure to avoid any slippery that may affect your next measurements (and probably make your measurements weird), It is strongly advised to perform these steps several times by resetting the filament position and extruding again 200mm.
  • If your measurements are consistent you can proceed to the folowing steps.

Slippery case:

  • In the opposite scenario, you will need to investigate where the slippery comes from.
  • Here are some hints :
    • The extruder spring is not tight enought.
    • The filament spool is forcing on the filament, preventing the extruder to pull it properly ( Look for any nodes on the filament, the spool itselft must be free)
    • The extruder compression finger might be broken, and the bearing is improperly applying pressure on the filament.
    • your Extrusion gear is improperly screwed, the motor is turning but your extrusion gear is slipping.
    • The extrusion gear might be full of plastic or dirty
    • Something is tempering with your filament
  • If you solved this issue you will need to check again by doing again the previous steps.



Computation of the proper Epas/mm value
Use of « cross product »

  • Once you have checked that your extruder is slippery free you will be able to compute the new ESteps/mm by using the following formula:

 (Actual EStep / mm ) * (Expected extruded filament length) / (Length of measured extruded filament) = new EStep/mm

Example detailed below : 150 * 200 / 198 = 151.5 ESteps/mm

In order to obtain the ESteps/mm of your extruder you will need to navigate inside your LCD display  » Controle>Mouvements>EStep/mm » (last parameter of the list)

Example explaination :

if you have extruded 200mm of filament

  • Expected extruded filament length = 200mm

If you measured 198mm

  • Length of measured extruded filament = 198mm

if your Estep/mm is 150 step/mm ( » Control>Mouvements>EStep/mm« )

  • Actual EStep / mm = 150 pas/mm

you get:

New EStep/mm = 150 * 200 / 198 = 151.5 (Please take good care of the decimale)


Applying our new EStep/mm

  • Now that you calculated the new EStep/mm for your extruder you need to apply this parameter to you machine using the LCD display:  « Control>Mouvements>EStep/mm« 
  • Do again the test to extrude 200mm of filament. The extruded filament length should be better .If you still have some error it’s often due to the precission of the initial measurement. (90% of the time)
  • Once you get something close to 200mm , then extrude again 200mm, you should be able to measure 400mm. This steps allows you to reduce the measurement error based on 200mm.
  • At this stage you can apply your final fined tuned EStep/mm..
  • You can also use « Retract200mm.gcode » to double check that your filament properly comes back to it’s position of orgine.


Congratulation, Make sure to save your settings !

You have now completed the calibration process of your extruder.

Make sure that your new setting is properly saved inside your printer EEPROM:

  • « Control> Save config« 
  • Wait a few seconds and switch down the printer. Switch it back on and check that the setting has properly been saved (« Control>Mouvements>EPas/mm« )


Resources :

For those that lost the content of the original SD card provided with the Scalar M or Scalar XL you can download the calibration Gcode here by clicking in the Zip icon or the link below:



Extruder Assembly

List of parts for E3D Hot end

List of parts for standard Hot end

Listof parts :

  • 2 M3X60mm screws
  • 2 vis M3x30mm screws
  • 4 vis M3x8mm screws
  • 4 M3 Washer
  • 4 M3 nuts
  • 2 3mm compression spring
  • 2 M4x20mm screws
  • 2 M4 nuts
  • 1 M8x60  hobbed bolt
  • 4 M8 Washer
  • 2 M8 nut
  • 1M8 nylstop nut
  • 3 608ZZ bearing
  • 1 plastic Washer
  • 1 cylinder 8x20mm
  • 1 48mm stepper motor
  • 1 pneumatic connector (plastic or metalic)
  • 1 extruder set of plastic parts
  • 1 support for the extruder compatible with 30×30 extrusions

Bearing bloc assembly:


List of parts :

  • 1 cylinder 8x20mm
  • 1 608zz bearing
  • 1 plastic part






Take the 608zz bearing and the small cylinder.







Insert the cylinder inside the bearing so that the bearing is centered on it:







Now tack the plastic part and push the bearing inside the dedicated slot, it should snap inside:







You can use some flat pliers to push it inside the slot if it’s too hard.






Main body assembly:


List of parts :

  • 1 previously assembled bearing part
  • 1 M3x30mm screw
  • 1 M3 washer
  • 1 extruder main body (buda)



Now take the main extruder’s body (also called « buda« )  and a M3x30mm screw and it’s washer.

Place the idler on the side of the main body, you will find a special hole to screw the idler on it.



Fix the idler on it until the screw blocks. The idler must still be able to rotate around the screw freely






Main body preparation:


List of parts :

  • Main extruder body already mounted
  • 2 M3x 60 screws
  • 2 M3 compression springs
  • 2 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 Nuts
  • 2 608ZZ bearings
  • 1 plastic washer



Insert the M3X60mm screws with their washer and compression spring at the top of the main body. You should find 2 special holes where the screws can go. On the top you will also find 2 small slots, big enough to insert 2 M3 nuts. You will then need to screw the long screws inside those nuts to hold the whole system together.




Turn the main body and insert the plastic washer inside the round as shown on the picture. The washer is slightly tilted so that you can see it properly on the picture, but you must push it all the way inside the slot.





Now insert the 608ZZ bearing in over the plastic washer. It should come at the same level as the main body as on the picture.






Now turn the extruder and insert the 2nd bearing inside the similar slot.





Preparation of the stepper motor and the gear wheels:

List of parts :

  • 1 M3 Nut
  • 1 small geared plastic wheel
  • 1 big plastic wheel
  • 1 48mm stepper motor
  • 1 M3x8mm screw
  • 1  M8x60 hobbed bolt
  • 4 M8 whashers


Take the small geared wheel and inside a M3 nut inside the small slot at the bottom of the wheel.






Take good care to align the nut hole with the hole on the side of the plastic wheel






Push the wheel on the stepper motor shaft and secure it with a M3x8mm screw






Take the big wheel and the M8x60 hobbed bolt with 4 metal washers:






Insert the Hobbed bolt inside the Plastic wheel. Take care to place the screw hex head so that it goes straight inside the hex shaped slot on the wheel:






Return the wheel and lay it flat







Insert the 4 metallic washers







Place the whole assembly back on the main body of the extruder as shown on the picture:







Place the the stepper motor behind so that the small wheel is properly aligned with the big wheel. Secure the motor with a first M3x8mm screw.





The next picture shows you where is the 2nd slot for the screw.

The 3rd screw has to be installed just near the bottom of the extruder, you should figure it easily.





You can now tighten the big wheel by using 2 M8 nuts side by side

Make sure to slightly tighten the wheel , because the wheel must always move freely without too much force on it, else the whole assembly will get stuck and your stepper motor won’t be able to push this wheel

You can then tighten the 2 M8 Nuts one against the other and help yourself with 2 hex keys

Now you can place the optional Nylstop nut (the nut with some plastic inside) to prevent any Nut from going out


Last part

List of parts :

  • 2 M3x30 screws with hex head
  • 2 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 nuts
  • 1 plastic part
  • 1 Allen key


Prepare the screws and the washers.

Screw them inside the small holes at the very bottom of the main body. The goal here is to fix the plastic part on the bottom of the main body.

Notice however that one side of the plastic part is flat and the other one is not. make sure to insert it the proper side




Before  screwing up to the end, make sure you put some M3 nuts on the other side of the main body. This part is optional however as the screws should be far enough to keep the whole thing together






Now prepare the extruder support.

Place it as showed in the picture, and insert 2 M4x30 screws.

On the opposite side you will find 2 M4 nut slots. Place 2 M4 nuts inside and screw everything together.




Take the pneumatic connector and insert it on the side of the extruder support. There is a hole big enough to accept the connector. Go slowly to prevent the extruder support from braking.

The picture here shows the metallic pneumatic connector in place





On this picture you have the example of the plastic pneumatic connector




extruder assembly on the chassis

Special Note:

This documentation was made for Greg’s extruder model and some additions were made to fit the currently provided MK8 bowden extruder.

Bowden MK8 extruder

Greg’s extruder assembled

List of parts

  • 1 Extrudeur already assembled (see full assembly here ici)
  • 2 M6x12mm screws
  • 2 T-nuts
  • [provided] 1 allen key


Start by preparing 2 set of screw/t-nuts so that they are located below the big gear wheel.




The goal here is to place it right next to the power supply unit on the top aluminum extrusion.

If you look at the printer from the front, the power supply should get to your right.

On this photo this is the back view.


Place the extruder so that the screws start to get inside the slots located below the aluminum extrusion.

The picture shows you an example.



For MK8 Extruder the process is very similar as shown on this picture, except that the motor is located in the opposite side.






The side view (right view) show the location of the T-Nuts, they should perfectly fit inside the extrusion slot.

If you already placed some side cover, remove it slowly with a flat screw diver, it’s interesting that it’s removed so that it will be easier for you to make sure the screws are properly attached. Otherwise the T-Nut on the edge of the extrusion might not turn and will not self lock.


For MK8 Extruder, again it’s very similar.

The stepper motor is below the top extrusion profile.





Here a zoom showing how it should fit inside. Those 2 screws will make the most of the work keeping this extruder in place.




Once properly inside the slots, screw it and add a side set of Screw+T-Nut .

You should be able to easily insert those even if sometimes the T-Nut won’t align properly with the screw.



Now screw it. It will maintain properly the extruder on the side and prevent it from vibrating.




Now you can put back the side cover.

The extruder might slightly go beyond the extrusion. So the side cover should align with the side of the extruder.




Push it in place to finish the assembly.





For MK8 extruder the back view should look like this picture.


Power supply wiring on chassis

List of parts :

  • 1 long clip (plastic part)
  • 1 short clip (plastic part)
  • 1 spool holder X10 (plastic part)
  • 2 M6X12mm screws
  • 2  M6 T-Nut
  • [not provided ] 1 power supply cable
  • [not provided ] 1 screw diver
  • [provided] 1 Allen key

The best is to rotate the printer chassis as shown in the picture. The purpose is to make it easier to place the T-Nuts inside the aluminum profile Slot.The spool holder is made so that you cannot pre mount the screws + T-Nut before placing the plastic part.



Focus on the Z axis motor wire.

The goal here is to place it inside the aluminum profile slot.





Place it as shown on the picture .






The other side of the wire must exit on the top of the power supply module.

This cable will then get inside the slot the is maintaining the extruder module.

It should go behind the power supply plastic cover.



Slide it inside the slot so that it’s in place for the future wiring steps.






The wiring should look like this.







Connect the end of the 220V power supply plug to the power supply.

Then slide the cable inside the same slot used for Z axis stepper motor wire.





Now take a « short » clip.

Those clips are made to be clipped on top of the aluminum profile slot and only secure one side of the aluminum extrusion.

When you place it over the aluminum extrusion you should hear a « click » meaning it’s properly in place.




This clip will be used to secure the base of the cables inside the aluminum extrusion it just near the z axis motor support.






Now take a « long » clip.

This model allows to close 3 sides of the aluminum extrusion at once.






Place it at the other top end of the machine, just behind the power supply module. The U shape must allows you to keep in place wires that are on the side where the use of the short clip would be impossible.




Here, a bottom view showing the long clip in place.






You now need the spool holder with the « X10″ marking » .

This plastic part’s purpose is to hold and keep in place the plastic filament during printing.




Place it on the side as shown on the picture, perpendicular to the power supply module.

The best is to place it as close as possible from the extruder (so to the top of the machine) .




Here the inclined position should help you to align the T-Nuts with the fixation holes of the spool holder.

You can use a small screw diver to keep the T-Nut in place while inserting the M6 screw.




Once in place, just add the M6X12mm screw.

This should look like the picture.





Secure it with a 2nd set of T-Nut/Screw and that’s it..