Archives de catégorie : Electronique

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Setup of the hot end auxiliary fan

List of parts :

  • 2 M3X25mm screws
  • 4 M3 washers
  • 2 M3 nuts
  • 1 blower fan
  • 1 GoPro fan support
  • 1 Fan shroud for blower fan

Take  1 screw,  1 nut and 2 washers as well as the GoPro fan support.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Now screw the GoPro Fan support on the blower fan, using the hole just next to the blower fan power wires .

Assemble it as follow: screw-washer –hole — washer – nut.

 

 

 


This photo shows the other side of the fan.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Place the whole assembly on the compatible support on the HotEnd block The photo shows you how to do it.

 

 

 


Secure it using the remaining fixation elements (M3x25mm screw, washer and nut).

You can place the screw head any way you want.

 

 

 


Now, tighten the whole thing enough so that the fan can be oriented but can stay in desired orientation.

 

 

 

 


Install the fan shroud as shown on the picture. This last part is to cool down  and harden the plastic just after it exists the hot end nozzle. You will need it when you will use PLA.

 

 

 


 

Rotate the fan block and adjust the orientation so that the blown air will cool down the bottom base of the nozzle.

Warning:  If the orientation is too much toward the hot end’s heater block, the fan will prevent the heater block from heating the plastic filament enough.

 

 


 

 

Fixation of electronics on the chassis

 

Notice:

Electronic box V1.0:

Inside some kits, an electronic box is provided already assembled.

The electronic inside might already be installed.

In this cas just place the box on the top of the chassis at the same location as the electronic support at the bottom of this page.

In the other case, the assembly is very similar, the arduino is to be screwed first and then the Ramps board comes on top of it.

The 4 holes are asymetrical, so the USB  connector of the arduino board and the Power terminals of the Ramps board should all exit on the right side of the box. On this picture, they should exit at the bottom of it.

The LCD scree is to be screwed with 4 M3x8mm screws on it’s dedicated support.

The support will then be screwed on the other part of the box using 4 M3X20mm screws.

Electronic Box V1:

The fan grid will directly be screwed using 4 M3X8mm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The electronic box can be mounted on the printer as shown on these pictures

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

Electronic Box V2.5:

Starting from V2.0 the electronic box has became modular.

Each wall of the box is a separate plastic part that can be upgraded, changed, adapated depending on your needs.

 

 

 

 

 

On this picture you can see that each part is independent from each other and can be assembled easily.

On version 2.5 of the box the 80mm fan is placed on the back of the box and the LCD screeen is switch from front to back.

The left side has now a simple grid for airflow output.

Here is a picture of the box assembled.

 

 

 

And here a view of the box from the side.

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

How to mount Box V2.5:

 

The location of the box is exactly the same as previously.

The change here is the location of the 80mm fan, now placed at the back of the box.

The main change from Version 2.0 is the position of the LCD screen.

The front of the printer now becomes the back and vice versa.

Here is the view from the other side of the printer.

The Z axis stepper motors are now facing you and you have direct acces to the hot end.

The spool holder is now on your right.

 

 

here is a close look of the box showing you that the LCD screen has more stability, as it’s closer to the top extrusion profile.

 

 

 

 

 

 


Standard Case

List of parts :

  • 1 Arduino + ramps + LCD already assembled
  • 5 M6x12mm screws
  • 5 M6 T-Nuts
  • [provided] 1 allen key

Take the LCD module previously assembled and prepare the M6 Screws + T-Nuts.

Place  2 screws and the outside of the plastic parts.

 

 

 


Now take the Arduino plastic support .

Take it so that the Scalar logo is oriented toward the top, then place 3 sets of T-Nuts+Screws on the following corners:

  • Top right
  • bottom right
  • bottom left

When looking at the machine from behind, place the previous parton the top right corner, it’s the corner where the X axis motor is located as shown on the photo.

Now screw the electronic module so that the LCD module is located on the top aluminum extrusion and the other electronic module fixed on top right corner of the 2 aluminum profiles .

The 2 top screws are screwed on the top extrusion, and the 3rd bottom right screw is tightened on the side extrusion.

In order to keep a clean way for future cable sets, you can place the exceeding LCD wires between the square holders of the chassis and the plastic electronic support.


Here is a global front view of the LCD located at the top left corner.

 

 

 

 


 

For those having the LCD box,  It’s placed at the same location as the other model.

Here the picture shows the back of the printer (the opposite side as the previous picture).

The front of the LCD is placed on the same side as the power supply, but on the right side.

 

 

 

 

Power supply wiring on chassis

List of parts :

  • 1 long clip (plastic part)
  • 1 short clip (plastic part)
  • 1 spool holder X10 (plastic part)
  • 2 M6X12mm screws
  • 2  M6 T-Nut
  • [not provided ] 1 power supply cable
  • [not provided ] 1 screw diver
  • [provided] 1 Allen key

The best is to rotate the printer chassis as shown in the picture. The purpose is to make it easier to place the T-Nuts inside the aluminum profile Slot.The spool holder is made so that you cannot pre mount the screws + T-Nut before placing the plastic part.

 

 


Focus on the Z axis motor wire.

The goal here is to place it inside the aluminum profile slot.

 

 

 


 

Place it as shown on the picture .

 

 

 

 

 


The other side of the wire must exit on the top of the power supply module.

This cable will then get inside the slot the is maintaining the extruder module.

It should go behind the power supply plastic cover.

 


 

Slide it inside the slot so that it’s in place for the future wiring steps.

 

 

 

 

 


The wiring should look like this.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Connect the end of the 220V power supply plug to the power supply.

Then slide the cable inside the same slot used for Z axis stepper motor wire.

 

 

 


 

Now take a « short » clip.

Those clips are made to be clipped on top of the aluminum profile slot and only secure one side of the aluminum extrusion.

When you place it over the aluminum extrusion you should hear a « click » meaning it’s properly in place.

 

 


 

This clip will be used to secure the base of the cables inside the aluminum extrusion slot.place it just near the z axis motor support.

 

 

 

 


 

Now take a « long » clip.

This model allows to close 3 sides of the aluminum extrusion at once.

 

 

 

 


 

Place it at the other top end of the machine, just behind the power supply module. The U shape must allows you to keep in place wires that are on the side where the use of the short clip would be impossible.

 

 

 


Here, a bottom view showing the long clip in place.

 

 

 

 

 


You now need the spool holder with the « X10″ marking » .

This plastic part’s purpose is to hold and keep in place the plastic filament during printing.

 

 

 


Place it on the side as shown on the picture, perpendicular to the power supply module.

The best is to place it as close as possible from the extruder (so to the top of the machine) .

 

 

 


Here the inclined position should help you to align the T-Nuts with the fixation holes of the spool holder.

You can use a small screw diver to keep the T-Nut in place while inserting the M6 screw.

 

 


 

Once in place, just add the M6X12mm screw.

This should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 


Secure it with a 2nd set of T-Nut/Screw and that’s it..

 

 

 

 

 

 

Electronic wiring – Scalar S – L – XL premium

Electronic Wiring on Ramps 1.4 board

5V or12V probe? Careful choose your schematic

  • 12V probe has 1 Dupont 2 pins connector and 1 red wire left over
    • Red wire left over: +12V
    • Black wire: 0V- Ground
    • Red wire in connector: Signal.

 

 

 

 

Here is the wiring diagram to use


  • 5V  probe has only 1 Dupont connector with 3 pins.
    • Brown wire (+5V)
    • Blue wire (0V – GND)
    • Black wire (Signal)

 

  • 5V  probe can be provided with and extender with different colors
    • Red wire (+5V)
    • Black wire (0V – GND)
    • White wire (Signal)

The wiring on the electronic board is similar to the previous version of this probe.

  • The Red wire corresponds to the Brown wire
  • The Black wire corresponds to the Blue Wire
  • The White wire corresponds to the Black wire

Here is the wiring diagram to use


 

 

Schematic for 12V proximity sensor

Electronic wiring on Ramps 1.4

On this 2nd schematic, ou will find a schematic closer to what is provided within the kit. With the induction probe, the hot end fan ad the auxiliary blower fan.

On the induction probe, it is provided with 3 wires. 2  (red and black) are connected to a Dupont 2 pin connector, and 1 (red) left alone with a node here, is the power supply of the probe.

Schematic for 5V proximity sensor

Brachement électronique de la carte Ramps 1.4 avec sonde à inductance 5V

This schematic corresponds to the kits provided after 17th October 2016.

This kit is provided with a 5V proximity sensors. The blue wire is the ground wire. The black wire is the signal wire and the brown wire is the +5V powe wire.

If your probe is not provided with a 3pin black connector, please look at the other schematics.

A Y shape wire extender is also provided. It’s directly connected to the 12V power output of the Ramps board and will help you to connect the hot end fan power supply to the +12V. It will also be used to connect the 80mm 12V fan dedicated to cool down your electronics.

 

You should be able to recognize the other components now. The wire’s color on the stepper motors are only for information, the one provided might have a completely different set of colors. The one on the power terminals are real colors with the red wire corresponding to +12V and the black wire to the ground wire (0V)

 


Ramps 1.4 Schematic

Ramps 1.4 Schematic

For information purpose here is the official schematic of the Ramps 1.4 board. It is the same you will find on the official reprap wiki  .

This schematic give you more data on all the pin out and also on the optional headers.

 

 

A word about the Big green power terminal

Ramps 1.4 power terminalsYou need to understand that the Green power connector on the left of the schematic picture is a Plug connector,

Meaning that the big part with the terminals can be removed from it’s base.

The picture here shows the 2 different parts:

  • On the left the terminal part that can be removed/unplugged
  • On the middle the fixed part, soldered on the ramps board
  • On the right side, the 2 parts attached together.

 


 

As visual support here is a picture of the electronic board free from any cables.

If you want compare directly with the previous schematic, you will need to make a 180° rotation as the power terminals are on the right on this picture and on the left on the previous schematic