Archives de catégorie : CR-10


Comparison in image between Genuine Bondtech BMG and the copy

When comparing, we can notice several differences:

  • The copy kit seems more complete
  • The provided output adaptor in PLA (for CR-10 versions) is perfect for this kind of application. An aliminum bowden connector can be provided as an option on the original kit.
  • The tensioning spring system is provided with a plastic washer that is attached to the tensioning screw inside the original kit . This prevent you from loosing the spring, which is pretty frequent with the copy version
  • The extrusion gear of the original model is clean, the copy counterpart is full of grease.
  • If we compare both models side by side, we can see slight differences in term of dimensions. The Original version is much better aligned, all the gears cannot hit each others.
  • The extrusion gear on the original version has teeth close fit for the 1.75mm filament. The dedicated zone with the teeth is optimal. On the copy side, this same zone is more evaded, so the contact zone with the filament is less efficient.
  • The filament is better guided on the original enclosure  then on the copy version. You have nearly no play between the teeth and the enclosure. In the other side you have a big gap between the teeth and the enclosure. Flexible filament will likely slip inside the gap on the copy version.
  • Metal insert of the copy version is over molded. This seems to be  better quality at first look. However when it comes to installing the tensioning screw, it’s much more difficult to fit the screw of the copy version because the insert is far back, compressing the spring as the screw has yet hit the threaded insert. It can become tricky to do it. On the original version is quite easy and you won’t even see a problem here.
  • The teeth’s shapes of the reduction gear are sightly different on both models.
  • The Original Bondtech version is also lighter of 8g compared to the copy version! (so it’s about 12% more mass of the original version)
  • The junction between the 2 body sides of the copy version has a play of about 1 to 2m. The original version is well fit.
  • When we close the moving gear latch, we can see that the extrusion gear of the copy version will hit the extruder body . It doesn’t happen on the  Original version.

En conclusion

This comparison is given as information purpose only. It has no mean into telling you which model is better or which one to buy.

This article gives you as much comparison elements as possible. We might have missed some.

Depending on your status, 1 of the 2 models will better fit your need. If you are more budget or performance oriented.

Upgrade CR-10 double Z

[CR-10] Dual Z Upgrade for CR-10

This page shows how to install the Dual Z Upgrade kit for CR-10 sold by 3D modular Systems.

This kit allows to install a 2nd Z axis stepper motor on your Creality CR-10 3D printer.

It will give you better print quality, and will increase Z motion precision.

THis upgrade is very important if you plan to use some auto bed leveling sensor such as  BLTouch

Kit content

Dual Z Upgrade for CR-10

  • 1 motor kit
  • 1 screw kit
  • 1 lead-screw + nut
  • 1 motor splitter cable
  • 1 plastic kit

Step 1 – Un-mounting

The main idea is to install the copper nut for the lead screw. For this you need to un-mount the right side of the X axis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

This is the part with the belt tensioner

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Using the hex key provided with the printer kit, totally un-mount the right side of the wheel system.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the 2 screws that are holding the x axis extrusion profile.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step 2 – Installing the upgrade

You should have this part after un-mounting the axis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the black screws provided inside the upgrade kit and install the Eccentric nut

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Place back the eccentric nut inside the dedicated hole on the metal plate. Place the nut’s round part inside the metallic groove.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

insert the wheel

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the upgrade’s kit spacer

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Important! Make sure to use the spacer provided with the upgrade kit! Don’t use the one from the existing axis as both spacers don’t have the same height!

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Take the plastic part with the copper nut and a nylstop

Place the wheel on the screw and then a spacer before assembling both parts

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Just insert slightly the nylstop. Keep the nylstop loose!

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install both parts on the chassis. Also note that the nylstop here is still loose.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

On the other side, install 1 other screw from the upgrade kit.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

From left to right, install the following parts:

  • 1 spacer from the original kit (CR-10)
  • 1 wheel
  • 1 spacer from the upgrade kit (10mm)

Upgrade double Z CR-10

do the same for the bottom.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install 2 nylstops, and then tighten them using flat pliers.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

In order to adjust the eccentric nut, you will need a size 10 flat key, or flat pliers if you don’t have this kind of keys.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Turn the key in 1 direction or another in order to adjust the location of the wheel.

The wheel must be in contact with the Z axis extrusion groove.

Once properly set the Z axis must slide up and down freely with very little play.

Once in place tighten the nylstop nut.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Seen from the front, the 2 Tnuts must be accessible.

We will now connect the X Axis extrusion

Upgrade double Z CR-10

From the back, turn the nuts so that they fit inside the extrusion.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

On the other side, Insert the hex key inside the dedicated hole to access the screw head.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step3 – Stepper motor installation

Mount the stepper motor at the base of the chassis.

Make sure that it’s perfectly aligned with the Nut and is laying perfectly flat on the base of the chassis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Screw the motor on the vertical double extrusion profile.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Take the blue coupler

Note that the coupler has 2 holes with different diameters.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Also note that the motor shaft has some flat area.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Align the coupler screws with the motor’s shaf’s flat area

The small diameter of the coupler is to be used on the motor shaft.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the leadscrew now.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Insert it from the top and let it spin freely to the bottom

You can use some lubricant if needed. (fine oils for screwing machines)

Upgrade double Z CR-10

The lead-screw must go down strait into the coupler.

Tighten the coupler screws

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install the top Z axis idler

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step4 – Z axis alignment

Use some flat object (here some kapton tape).

Place it on one side, and move down the axis until the bottom part of the x axis is touching the object.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Do the same on the other side.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step 5 – Electronic wiring

Connect the stepper motor cable.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

You are going to put your hands inside the electronic box. Make sure to disconnect the electronic box from your  power plug!

At the bottom of the electronic box you will find 5 screws to remove.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use a hex key to remove them.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

In order to remove the Power supply, you need to remove the 4 screws on the side of the electronic box.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the power supply from the top.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

At the top, near the LCD, you will find the main board.

Locate the Z axis cable

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the Z axis wire and replace it with the splitter cable

Make sure to place the red wire facing top.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Connect the Z axis cable to 1 end of the splitter cable.

Take the splitter so that the red wires are facing down.

On the Z axis cable you should see some clips on 1 side.

These must be facing you

Upgrade double Z CR-10

At the back of the electronic box, you have 2 metallic connectors and 1 wires output

Insert the stepper motor black connector inside this last hole.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Once inside the cable must follow the other cables

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Connect it with the last end of the splitter wire

The red wire from the stepper motor must be connected with the red wire of the splitter wire

Upgrade double Z CR-10

You can use some tape in order to make sure the 4 wires are held together

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use some cable tie to make sure the internal cables are properly held on the box.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step6 – Stepper motor calibration

Using the ceramic screw driver provided with the upgrade kit, you need to adjust the stepper driver current for both Z axis motor to be working.

tourne vis céramique

The best practice is to use a voltmeter

If you have a voltmeter, use the caliber closest to 2V DC .

Place the « + » probe directly on the metallic cap of the driver potentiometer.

Place the probe « – » directly on the GND terminal of the power supply where the big black cable is located at the bottom.

Warning! The next step requires the electronic box to be powered on!

Make sure to use the ceramic screw driver as it’s insulated. any other screw driver may damage the driver.

Power on the electronic box, measure the voltage as explained above.

Using the ceramic screw driver, turn clockwise so that the voltage is reaching about « 1Vdc »

Using the LCD screen, lift up and down the z axis (prepare>Move axis >Z)

If the Z axis is moving freely then you are done. If not you may need to slightly increase the voltage.

If you don’t have any voltmeters, using the LCD screen, lift up and down the Z axis.

Turn clockwise until both stepper motors are able to properly lift the Z axis

Once finished you can power down the electronic box, unplug the power coord, and screw the electronic box back to normal.

You are done!

CR-10, 220V 600W

Heat-bed upgrade – 600W / 220V for Creality CR-10 / E10 3D printer

This page describes the way to setup this 600W / 220V silicone heat-bed upgrade from 3D Modular Systems . This upgrade is compatible with Creality CR-10, also potentially compatible with Anet E10

Upgrade content

  • 1 silicone heat-bed 220V / 600W
  • 1 static relay
  • 1 Grounding kit
  • 1 cable tie kit
  • 1 spiral cable tie

Heat-bed disassembly

Remove the glass from your bed.

Remove all 4 screws from your heat-bed

Return your heat-bed

Place the silicone pad so that the holes fits the bed screw holes.

Remove the protective film

Make sure to place the silicone pad so that the power supply cables are placed on the same corner as the original cables.

Note here the location of the power supply cables.

Re-use of the existing wiring

The main purpose here is to re-use the existing wiring

You have several choices here:

  • Simply cut the power supply wires (Red and Black)

Make sure not to cut the 2 small white wires!

  • Or un-solder them from the PCB bed

Separate the 2 power wires from the temperature sensor.

Insulate the heat-bed

The more efficient way is to use simple aluminum foil for cooking.

Warning! the aluminum foil has 2 different faces

  • 1 shiny side
  • 1 mat side

Use the shiny face so that it faces the black side of your bed.

The mat face has to face you.

Using a fine cutting device, carefully remove the excess of aluminum and open up the dedicated square holes .

Secure everything using kapton tape.

Kapton tape is specially made to handle high temperatures

It is also a great electric insulator.

Make sure to use proper tape

Place 4 Kapton strips along the sides of the bed in order to properly secure the whole system over the black heat bed surface.

Using a fine cutting device, you can remove the excess of tapes on the corners

Finally place a diagonal strip to secure everything.

Re-install the heat-bed and the glass.



Cut the sheath holding the power wire and the thermistor. Use a simple pair of scissors.

Make sure to cut only the sheath. Avoid cutting the wires inside the sheath!

Use a pair of cable ties to secure the thermistor wires with the bed power wires.

You can use the spiral sheath to secure the wires.

Static relay installation

Remove the blue extrusion cover located inside the left side of the chassis, at the back.

Cut about 8 cm

Static relay installation without cover

Install the static relay using a pair of M4x8mm screw and a T-nut.

Take special precautions on the orientation of the relay. The 3-32VDC side has to be facing the Z axis stepper motor. The 220V side must  point toward the outside of the chassis.

Connect the Red wire of your heat-bed that you previously cut and connect it on the « + » terminal of the static relay (terminal number 3)

Also connect the Black wire from your heat-bed (that you also previously cut) on the « – » terminal of the static relay (Terminal 4)

Make sure to take into account the polarity on the static relay!

Wire both Terminals from the 220V silicone bed on the static relay terminals . Here there is no polarity

You should have a red enclosure provided with the static relay . You just have to position the static relay on the side where the silicone bed power wire are going out.

If you have this red enclosure you can skip the next few steps that tells you how to connect you heatbed to you static relay.

Make sure to insulate the 220V  of the static relay using Kapton tape.

Ground wire installation.

You will need a pair of washer, 1 M4x8mm screw and 1 T-nut.

insert the screw and the washer inside the ground wire round terminal from the heat-bed.

Take the 2nd ground wire provided

Connect the 2 ground wires at the same location on the chassis, here pointed by the arrow.

The last washer is inserted at the bottom. The T-Nut allows to secure the ground wires on the chassis.

The 2nd ground wire has to be attached under the heat-bed.

Unscrew the adjusting knob under the bed, on the corner near the static relay.

The 2 washers allows to make contact between the ground wires and the metallic side of the bed.

1washer o each side of the ground wire terminal.

The adjusting knob secures everything.

you can use the spiral sheath in order to finalize the wiring.

That’s all!

You can use your heat-bed now.

On the electronic side you have no changes to make.

You heat bed should reach the following temperature

  • 60°C in less than 1 minute 10 seconds
  • 110°C in less than 3 minutes