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Comparison in image between Genuine Bondtech BMG and the copy

When comparing, we can notice several differences:

  • The copy kit seems more complete
  • The provided output adaptor in PLA (for CR-10 versions) is perfect for this kind of application. An aliminum bowden connector can be provided as an option on the original kit.
  • The tensioning spring system is provided with a plastic washer that is attached to the tensioning screw inside the original kit . This prevent you from loosing the spring, which is pretty frequent with the copy version
  • The extrusion gear of the original model is clean, the copy counterpart is full of grease.
  • If we compare both models side by side, we can see slight differences in term of dimensions. The Original version is much better aligned, all the gears cannot hit each others.
  • The extrusion gear on the original version has teeth close fit for the 1.75mm filament. The dedicated zone with the teeth is optimal. On the copy side, this same zone is more evaded, so the contact zone with the filament is less efficient.
  • The filament is better guided on the original enclosure  then on the copy version. You have nearly no play between the teeth and the enclosure. In the other side you have a big gap between the teeth and the enclosure. Flexible filament will likely slip inside the gap on the copy version.
  • Metal insert of the copy version is over molded. This seems to be  better quality at first look. However when it comes to installing the tensioning screw, it’s much more difficult to fit the screw of the copy version because the insert is far back, compressing the spring as the screw has yet hit the threaded insert. It can become tricky to do it. On the original version is quite easy and you won’t even see a problem here.
  • The teeth’s shapes of the reduction gear are sightly different on both models.
  • The Original Bondtech version is also lighter of 8g compared to the copy version! (so it’s about 12% more mass of the original version)
  • The junction between the 2 body sides of the copy version has a play of about 1 to 2m. The original version is well fit.
  • When we close the moving gear latch, we can see that the extrusion gear of the copy version will hit the extruder body . It doesn’t happen on the  Original version.

En conclusion

This comparison is given as information purpose only. It has no mean into telling you which model is better or which one to buy.

This article gives you as much comparison elements as possible. We might have missed some.

Depending on your status, 1 of the 2 models will better fit your need. If you are more budget or performance oriented.

Upgrade double extrusion E3D chimera

Dual Extrusion upgrade – E3D Chimera

Upgrade Double Extrusion E3D Chimera

The kit contains:

  • 1 motor kit+ extruder + stepper motor driver
  • 2 meters of PTFE tubing
  • 1 screw set
  • 1 E3D Chimera kit
  • 1 fan extender board

E3D Chimera installation guide

You will find the installation guide on the E3D official website

Necessary plastic parts

You will find the needed plastic parts on thingiverse. they are compatible with Scalar 3D printers. You will need the following parts:

Hot end installation

You need 3 M3x8 screws in order to attach the hot end heat-sink on the plastic holder Use the screws from the back of the plastic part to hold the hot end in place. 1 M3x20 thermoplastic screw in to be installed on the hole behind the inductive probe support Install you inductive probes Finally, using 3 M3x10 screws, attach everything on the  X carriage starting from the 2nd hole from the top
E3D Chimera Dual extrusion upgrade

Extruders motors installation on the chassis

double extrusion E3D chimera, installation des moteurs d'extrusion
Extrusion motors are to be installed on the top of your chassis You can attache them on the spool holders extrusions as follow.
The 2 pneumatic connectors are to be installed at the output of the extruders. They will hold the ptfe tubing later on. In the kit you should have 2 extrusion gears. Make sure to install them both, 1 on each extruder. the goal here is to have the same extrusion gear on each extruder to make things easier later on. You will need to calibrate your Control>Motion>Estep/mm after you update your firmware.

PTFE tubing installation

You can now install the ptfe Tubing between the hot end and the different extruders. Important note: the left heating block corresponds to the extruder E0, and the right side heating block corresponds to the extruder E1 You need to cut the tube to length so that they are as short as possible and still guaranty smooth motion all over the print volume. A good tip would be to make sure that the hot end nozzle is as low as possible (near touching the bed) before cutting the tube, in order to have an optimal tube length.

Nozzle alignment

You can now align your 2 nozzles:
  • Make sure that your X axis is as parallel to your heat bed as possible
  • Lower the hot end until 1 nozzle is touching the bed
  • Using the 2 small screws on the side of the heat-sink, you can adjust the 2nd nozzle to that it also touches the bed.

Electronic wiring

Here is the wiring diagram of the E3D Chimera dual extrusion upgrade
Dual extrusion E3D Chimera Wiring diagram

Extruder 2 (E1) installation

You first need to install the driver for your new extruder motor on the remaining driver slot. Warning! Carefully note the driver orientation, the location of the small heat-sink and the small round potentiometer. They must be on the same orientation as the other drivers

Stepper motor driver calibration

You will now calibrate the stepper motor driver using a Ceramic screws driver (provided with Scalar L/ XLP)

Reminder on the Ceramic screw driver

This screw driver is electrically insulated. It’s used to adjust potentiometers when powered If you are using a standard non insulated screw driver you may damage your stepper driver.
tourne vis céramique
For the calibration purpose you will also need a multi-meter with the  2V DC caliber selected  (or similar).
  • Place the multi-meter black probe on the  USB connector metallic shielding of the arduino board (blue) located below the Ramps board (red).
  • Place the red probe over the small round potentiometer located next to the heat sink
  • Measure the voltage, you want 0.850mV
  • Using the ceramic screw driver, turn the potentiometer clockwise to increase the voltage.
  • Turn counter clockwise to decrease the voltage.

Fan extender board installation

RRD fan extender
This board is used to replace the power transistor that you re-used for your second hot end heater cartridge. You will need it to power your PLA cooling fan. Install it over the « servo » extension pins on the ramps 1.4 board (same for MKS gen boards)
This board need an external power supply in order to work. You need to unplug the E3D 30mm cooling fan from the « Y » shape splitter cable. Connect another « Y » splitter cable to it and plug back the 30mm fan to one of the available end. On the remaining end, connect the 20cm Female-Female extender cable. The other end of the cable is to be connected to the 12V input of the fan extender board (here on the left) Warning! take precautions with the polarities! Now connect the PLA cooling blower fan on the D11 location on the fan extender board.

Firmware upgrade

You need to upgrade your firmware in order to take into account your 2nd extruder. The upgrade procedure is located here The compatible firmware are labeled « Dual extrusion Chimera » If you 3D printer version / model is not listed, please make sure to contact us so that we can provide it.

Precautions after upgrading your firmware

  • Check that all your stepper motors are still turning in the proper direction. If not, just flip the motor connector on the electronic board side.
  • You will need to move the location or your existing X axis end stop. Push the hot end left until the right nozzle is located on the edge of the left side of the bed.  The left nozzle must get outside of the bed area. Now push the end stop against the X carriage and you are set.
  • You will also need to adjust ZOffset before printing. The probe tip must be around 1-2mm above the nozzle tip.
Boitier électronique pour cartes MKS GEN

Electronic enclosure for MKS GEN 1.4 and GEN-L board

Scalar Boîtier électronique MKS

We have recently published a new electronic box compatible with Scalar S / M / L XL / XLP.

Where to download it?

This box is available for free download on our dedicated Thingiverse page:

What’s news with this enclosure?

It is compatible with these controller boards

You can also include a Raspberry pi 2 / 3


What are the differences with the previous enclosure?

  • The USB connector is now on top
  • The enclosure is slightly taller
  • The enclosure is thinner
  • 2 specials holes are dedicated for LED WS2812 that will give you a visual status on your printer status.

How to assemble the box?

boîtier MKS pour Scalar

It contains 7 plates

  • 1 base where all the other plates will attach (compatible with 3030 extrusions or 2020 depending which version you print)
  • 1 front facade where the RepRapDiscount LCD2004 screen will fit
  • 1 bottom side that will fit 3030 extrusion profiles or 2020 extrusion profiles (check which version you print)
  • 2 side plates
  • 1 top plate (Top) with a dedicated hole for MKS USB cable
  • 1 back plate (2 models):

This last plate contains also

How to attache plates together?

you will need a few plastic screws

What are the tips and limitations to know?

  • The bottom plate can be glued to the base. 2 screws can be used to hold things together while the glue is setting. You can remove these screws afterward when you will need to place the enclosure on top of an extrusion profile
  • The base plate and the bottom plate are compatible only with 3030 extrusion profiles.

How many print hours do i need to make the enclosure?

You will need (with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.2mm layers):

  • +3 hours for the front plate
  • 2h30 for the base
  • 1h30 for each side plates
  • 2 hours for each remaining plates (3 plates)

For a total of about 13h of printing

Can i buy the enclosure already assembled?

The enclosure is available here

Upgrade CR-10 double Z

[CR-10] Dual Z Upgrade for CR-10

This page shows how to install the Dual Z Upgrade kit for CR-10 sold by 3D modular Systems.

This kit allows to install a 2nd Z axis stepper motor on your Creality CR-10 3D printer.

It will give you better print quality, and will increase Z motion precision.

THis upgrade is very important if you plan to use some auto bed leveling sensor such as  BLTouch

Kit content

Dual Z Upgrade for CR-10

  • 1 motor kit
  • 1 screw kit
  • 1 lead-screw + nut
  • 1 motor splitter cable
  • 1 plastic kit

Step 1 – Un-mounting

The main idea is to install the copper nut for the lead screw. For this you need to un-mount the right side of the X axis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

This is the part with the belt tensioner

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Using the hex key provided with the printer kit, totally un-mount the right side of the wheel system.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the 2 screws that are holding the x axis extrusion profile.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step 2 – Installing the upgrade

You should have this part after un-mounting the axis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the black screws provided inside the upgrade kit and install the Eccentric nut

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Place back the eccentric nut inside the dedicated hole on the metal plate. Place the nut’s round part inside the metallic groove.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

insert the wheel

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the upgrade’s kit spacer

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Important! Make sure to use the spacer provided with the upgrade kit! Don’t use the one from the existing axis as both spacers don’t have the same height!

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Take the plastic part with the copper nut and a nylstop

Place the wheel on the screw and then a spacer before assembling both parts

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Just insert slightly the nylstop. Keep the nylstop loose!

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install both parts on the chassis. Also note that the nylstop here is still loose.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

On the other side, install 1 other screw from the upgrade kit.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

From left to right, install the following parts:

  • 1 spacer from the original kit (CR-10)
  • 1 wheel
  • 1 spacer from the upgrade kit (10mm)

Upgrade double Z CR-10

do the same for the bottom.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install 2 nylstops, and then tighten them using flat pliers.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

In order to adjust the eccentric nut, you will need a size 10 flat key, or flat pliers if you don’t have this kind of keys.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Turn the key in 1 direction or another in order to adjust the location of the wheel.

The wheel must be in contact with the Z axis extrusion groove.

Once properly set the Z axis must slide up and down freely with very little play.

Once in place tighten the nylstop nut.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Seen from the front, the 2 Tnuts must be accessible.

We will now connect the X Axis extrusion

Upgrade double Z CR-10

From the back, turn the nuts so that they fit inside the extrusion.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

On the other side, Insert the hex key inside the dedicated hole to access the screw head.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step3 – Stepper motor installation

Mount the stepper motor at the base of the chassis.

Make sure that it’s perfectly aligned with the Nut and is laying perfectly flat on the base of the chassis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Screw the motor on the vertical double extrusion profile.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Take the blue coupler

Note that the coupler has 2 holes with different diameters.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Also note that the motor shaft has some flat area.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Align the coupler screws with the motor’s shaf’s flat area

The small diameter of the coupler is to be used on the motor shaft.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the leadscrew now.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Insert it from the top and let it spin freely to the bottom

You can use some lubricant if needed. (fine oils for screwing machines)

Upgrade double Z CR-10

The lead-screw must go down strait into the coupler.

Tighten the coupler screws

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install the top Z axis idler

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step4 – Z axis alignment

Use some flat object (here some kapton tape).

Place it on one side, and move down the axis until the bottom part of the x axis is touching the object.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Do the same on the other side.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step 5 – Electronic wiring

Connect the stepper motor cable.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

You are going to put your hands inside the electronic box. Make sure to disconnect the electronic box from your  power plug!

At the bottom of the electronic box you will find 5 screws to remove.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use a hex key to remove them.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

In order to remove the Power supply, you need to remove the 4 screws on the side of the electronic box.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the power supply from the top.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

At the top, near the LCD, you will find the main board.

Locate the Z axis cable

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the Z axis wire and replace it with the splitter cable

Make sure to place the red wire facing top.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Connect the Z axis cable to 1 end of the splitter cable.

Take the splitter so that the red wires are facing down.

On the Z axis cable you should see some clips on 1 side.

These must be facing you

Upgrade double Z CR-10

At the back of the electronic box, you have 2 metallic connectors and 1 wires output

Insert the stepper motor black connector inside this last hole.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Once inside the cable must follow the other cables

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Connect it with the last end of the splitter wire

The red wire from the stepper motor must be connected with the red wire of the splitter wire

Upgrade double Z CR-10

You can use some tape in order to make sure the 4 wires are held together

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use some cable tie to make sure the internal cables are properly held on the box.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step6 – Stepper motor calibration

Using the ceramic screw driver provided with the upgrade kit, you need to adjust the stepper driver current for both Z axis motor to be working.

tourne vis céramique

The best practice is to use a voltmeter

If you have a voltmeter, use the caliber closest to 2V DC .

Place the « + » probe directly on the metallic cap of the driver potentiometer.

Place the probe « – » directly on the GND terminal of the power supply where the big black cable is located at the bottom.

Warning! The next step requires the electronic box to be powered on!

Make sure to use the ceramic screw driver as it’s insulated. any other screw driver may damage the driver.

Power on the electronic box, measure the voltage as explained above.

Using the ceramic screw driver, turn clockwise so that the voltage is reaching about « 1Vdc »

Using the LCD screen, lift up and down the z axis (prepare>Move axis >Z)

If the Z axis is moving freely then you are done. If not you may need to slightly increase the voltage.

If you don’t have any voltmeters, using the LCD screen, lift up and down the Z axis.

Turn clockwise until both stepper motors are able to properly lift the Z axis

Once finished you can power down the electronic box, unplug the power coord, and screw the electronic box back to normal.

You are done!

CR-10, 220V 600W

Heat-bed upgrade – 600W / 220V for Creality CR-10 / E10 3D printer

This page describes the way to setup this 600W / 220V silicone heat-bed upgrade from 3D Modular Systems . This upgrade is compatible with Creality CR-10, also potentially compatible with Anet E10

Upgrade content

  • 1 silicone heat-bed 220V / 600W
  • 1 static relay
  • 1 Grounding kit
  • 1 cable tie kit
  • 1 spiral cable tie

Heat-bed disassembly

Remove the glass from your bed.

Remove all 4 screws from your heat-bed

Return your heat-bed

Place the silicone pad so that the holes fits the bed screw holes.

Remove the protective film

Make sure to place the silicone pad so that the power supply cables are placed on the same corner as the original cables.

Note here the location of the power supply cables.

Re-use of the existing wiring

The main purpose here is to re-use the existing wiring

You have several choices here:

  • Simply cut the power supply wires (Red and Black)

Make sure not to cut the 2 small white wires!

  • Or un-solder them from the PCB bed

Separate the 2 power wires from the temperature sensor.

Insulate the heat-bed

The more efficient way is to use simple aluminum foil for cooking.

Warning! the aluminum foil has 2 different faces

  • 1 shiny side
  • 1 mat side

Use the shiny face so that it faces the black side of your bed.

The mat face has to face you.

Using a fine cutting device, carefully remove the excess of aluminum and open up the dedicated square holes .

Secure everything using kapton tape.

Kapton tape is specially made to handle high temperatures

It is also a great electric insulator.

Make sure to use proper tape

Place 4 Kapton strips along the sides of the bed in order to properly secure the whole system over the black heat bed surface.

Using a fine cutting device, you can remove the excess of tapes on the corners

Finally place a diagonal strip to secure everything.

Re-install the heat-bed and the glass.



Cut the sheath holding the power wire and the thermistor. Use a simple pair of scissors.

Make sure to cut only the sheath. Avoid cutting the wires inside the sheath!

Use a pair of cable ties to secure the thermistor wires with the bed power wires.

You can use the spiral sheath to secure the wires.

Static relay installation

Remove the blue extrusion cover located inside the left side of the chassis, at the back.

Cut about 8 cm

Static relay installation without cover

Install the static relay using a pair of M4x8mm screw and a T-nut.

Take special precautions on the orientation of the relay. The 3-32VDC side has to be facing the Z axis stepper motor. The 220V side must  point toward the outside of the chassis.

Connect the Red wire of your heat-bed that you previously cut and connect it on the « + » terminal of the static relay (terminal number 3)

Also connect the Black wire from your heat-bed (that you also previously cut) on the « – » terminal of the static relay (Terminal 4)

Make sure to take into account the polarity on the static relay!

Wire both Terminals from the 220V silicone bed on the static relay terminals . Here there is no polarity

You should have a red enclosure provided with the static relay . You just have to position the static relay on the side where the silicone bed power wire are going out.

If you have this red enclosure you can skip the next few steps that tells you how to connect you heatbed to you static relay.

Make sure to insulate the 220V  of the static relay using Kapton tape.

Ground wire installation.

You will need a pair of washer, 1 M4x8mm screw and 1 T-nut.

insert the screw and the washer inside the ground wire round terminal from the heat-bed.

Take the 2nd ground wire provided

Connect the 2 ground wires at the same location on the chassis, here pointed by the arrow.

The last washer is inserted at the bottom. The T-Nut allows to secure the ground wires on the chassis.

The 2nd ground wire has to be attached under the heat-bed.

Unscrew the adjusting knob under the bed, on the corner near the static relay.

The 2 washers allows to make contact between the ground wires and the metallic side of the bed.

1washer o each side of the ground wire terminal.

The adjusting knob secures everything.

you can use the spiral sheath in order to finalize the wiring.

That’s all!

You can use your heat-bed now.

On the electronic side you have no changes to make.

You heat bed should reach the following temperature

  • 60°C in less than 1 minute 10 seconds
  • 110°C in less than 3 minutes


Z axis Alu upgrade – back aluminium sliders installation

Aluminium Z axis upgrade for Scalar L / XL Premium

Left side assembly (X axis motor side)

machoire aluminium pour imprimante 3D Scalar


Right side assembly

Setup your Firmware parameters

The TR10x2 trapezoïdale leadscrews requires new ZStep/mm settings on your firmware

Through your LCD display,go to Control>movements>Zstep/mm>1600

Trap lead screws requirements

Make sure to lubricate the leadscrews as well as your Igus nuts using PTFE lubricant, grease, or even Fine oil for small mecanism

Scalar Upgrade – Dual Y motors

This page describes the different steps required to install the Dual Y stepper motor upgrade (available here)

This upgrade is compatible with Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium 3d printers.

The purpose of this upgrade

This upgrade intends to add a 2nd stepper motor on the existing Y Axis.

It allows to have 1 stepper motor at the front and at the back of the print surface.

Both motors are turning on the same direction

More over they are electrically links together on the same stepper driver.

This allows them to be perfectly in sync.

Both stepper motors are driving the belts in both directions.

The print surface is always perfectly pulled on both directions.

Upgrade installation

upgrade Dual Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

Stepper motor wires installation

upgrade DUAL Y

upgrade DUAL Y

Electric wiring

Upgrade DUAL Y

The electric wiring is performed over the existing installation

You need to :

  1. Disconnect the existing Y axis stepper motor wire. Make sure to note down the location of each wire color.
  2. Install the Y shaped splitter cable on the Y axis stepper motor output. A good idea is to install the wire so that the red wire is pointing in the same direction as the previous motor wire.
  3. Connect the original Y axis motor wire on one of the 2 male connectors on the Y  splitter cable.
  4. Connect the new stepper motor wire on the remaining 4 pins connector.
  5. Using your LCD screen, move your Y axis and check that both motors are turning the same way. If not, just invert the newly installed motor cable and check again.
  6. Now both steppers should run on the same direction. Check that when moving in positive direction the Y axis is going away from the Y axis end stop. If not you will need to invert the Y slipper cable on the ramps side.
  7. The setup is finished.


Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

This page is dedicated into the setup of the « Upgrade Z Trap » kit of your Scalar S 3D printer using Trap Lead Screws

The whole procedure is to be done at the back of the machine

The Kit  contains

  • 2 Trap lead screws
  • 2 Steel Trap Nut
  • 2 plastic parts

Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap


Unmounting the old system

We unlock the Z axis couplers from the leadscrew


Scalar S - Upgrade Z Trap

Scalar S – Upgrade Z Trap

Remove the M8 lead screws

Remove the previous plastic part that holds the Z nut

This part has a small hole at the back in order to insert the small nut.

Installation of the upgraded parts

Replace the previous plastic parts using the new set. Notice that the center hole is larger than the previous version to properly fit the new Trap Nut

Insert the new Hex Nut into the dedicated Grooves

Insert the new Trap Screws

Tighten the Z Coupler

The setup is finished

Firmware / LCD changes to be done

In order for the firmware to take into account the pitch of your new set of lead screws, you will need to update 1 parameter inside your firmware

If you have a LCD screen

Go into the LCD menu: Control>Motion>ZStep/mm

  • Replace the previous value 2560 with 2133.3
  • Save your new settings by going into the menu  Control>Save Config

Things to take into consideration

Has you have changed the pitch of the screw of your Z axis, make sure your slicer is using a compatible Layer Height

Check the following article to get more information :

What is the best “layer height” for your printer

Electronic Wiring – Scalar M – XL

Electronic Wiring on Ramps 1.4 board

5V or12V probe? Careful choose your schematic

  • 12V probe has 1 Dupont 2 pins connector and 1 red wire left over
    • Red wire left over: +12V
    • Black wire: 0V- Ground
    • Red wire in connector: Signal.





Here is the wiring diagram to use

  • 5V probe has only 1 Dupont connector with 3 pins.
    • Brown wire (+5V)
    • Blue wire (0V – GND)
    • Black wire (Signal)


  • 5V probe can be provided with and extender with different colors
    • Red wire (+5V)
    • Black wire (0V – GND)
    • White wire (Signal)

The wiring on the electronic board is similar to the previous version of this probe.

  • The Red wire corresponds to the Brown wire
  • The Black wire corresponds to the Blue Wire
  • The White wire corresponds to the Black wire

Here is the wiring diagram to use



Schematic for 12V proximity sensor

Electronic wiring on Ramps 1.4

On this 2nd schematic, ou will find a schematic closer to what is provided within the kit. With the induction probe, the hot end fan ad the auxiliary blower fan.

On the induction probe, it is provided with 3 wires. 2 (red and black) are connected to a Dupont 2 pin connector, and 1 (red) left alone with a node here, is the power supply of the probe.

Schematic for 5V proximity sensor

Brachement électronique de la carte Ramps 1.4 avec sonde à inductance 5V

This schematic corresponds to the kits provided after 17th October 2016.

This kit is provided with a 5V proximity sensors. The blue wire is the ground wire. The black wire is the signal wire and the brown wire is the +5V powe wire.

If your probe is not provided with a 3pin black connector, please look at the other schematics.

A Y shape wire extender is also provided. It’s directly connected to the 12V power output of the Ramps board and will help you to connect the hot end fan power supply to the +12V. It will also be used to connect the 80mm 12V fan dedicated to cool down your electronics.


You should be able to recognize the other components now. The wire’s color on the stepper motors are only for information, the one provided might have a completely different set of colors. The one on the power terminals are real colors with the red wire corresponding to +12V and the black wire to the ground wire (0V)


Ramps 1.4 Schematic

Ramps 1.4 Schematic

For information purpose here is the official schematic of the Ramps 1.4 board. It is the same you will find on the official reprap wiki .

This schematic give you more data on all the pin out and also on the optional headers.



A word about the Big green power terminal

Ramps 1.4 power terminalsYou need to understand that the Green power connector on the left of the schematic picture is a Plug connector,

Meaning that the big part with the terminals can be removed from it’s base.

The picture here shows the 2 different parts:

  • On the left the terminal part that can be removed/unplugged
  • On the middle the fixed part, soldered on the ramps board
  • On the right side, the 2 parts attached together.



As visual support here is a picture of the electronic board free from any cables.

If you want compare directly with the previous schematic, you will need to make a 180° rotation as the power terminals are on the right on this picture and on the left on the previous schematic



For the standalone end stop holder (you might not have it, it has been replaced by the one below.)

Let’s start with the cables located on the Y axis, under the heat bed.

Also take 2 « long » U shaped clips and 1 cable tie.


For Integrated end stop, it’s very easy, the picture shows you how the wires are placed.






Pass all the wire inside the chassis.

You should have 2 wires of the end stop and 4 for the stepper motor.

Bring them all together and secure them inside the aluminum profile slot located just behind the stepper motor support


View from inside of the machine, the wires can easily fit inside the aluminum profile slot .

With 2 long plastic clips, secure the wires. Using short clips is not advised because they will raise the chassis of a few millimeters on this side only breaking the overall equilibrium. Use the « long » clips to keep the main part of the clip oriented toward the top of the machine.


(Scalar XL) In the corner of the chassis is located the SSR static relay. Attach the wires with a cable tie with the wires from the heat bed.

This will secure the wires on the same location.





(Scalar XL) Tighten the cable tie.






Take the end stop connector.





At any steps, feel free to go back to the official schematic if you have any doubt about the picture or if it’s not clear.

Place the Y axis end stop connector on it’s place, please read the following to the end before doing anything .

On the picture, the whole set of pins located on the lower left side is dedicated to end stops.

There are 3 rows pins from top to bottom.

The first row is linked to the +5V power (provided from the arduino itself).

The second row is linked to the Ground (+0V)

The last row is linked directly to the arduino.

Attention: Never connect the top row with the middle row because you will short circuit the +5V generated by the arduino when the end stop will close causing. If for some reason you happen to do this you will cause some irreversible damages to the arduino power supply and the electronics might not work anymore afterward.

Important: All the end stop MUST be connected on the bottom and middle row.

To complete the explanation, you can connect up to 6 end stop on a 3d printer. for each axis you can have 2 end stops, one for MIN and the other one for MAX position.

The firmware allows to use only MIN end stops and will handle by software the one for MAX position.

So you can reduce the amount of end stops to 3 end stops.

Each columns dedicated to 1 specific end stop.

Each axis is grouped by 2 columns side by side.

Starting from the right of the picture you will get the following :

  1. X MIN
  2. X MAX
  3. Y MIN
  4. Y MAX
  5. Z MIN
  6. Z MAX

You will connect the Y axis MIN end stop at the bottom of the 3rd column from the right..

Now let’s connect the heat bed thermistor connector located under the heat bed.

Locate it’s connector, you will now connect it to the electronic board.




The thermistor dedicated input pins are located just above the one dedicated for end stops.

You will find 6 pins on the same row, with T0, T1, T2 marking just below.

  1. T0 is for the hot end thermistor.
  2. T1 is for the heat bed thermistor
  3. T2 is an optional thermistor for a possible 2nd hot end.

So, connect the heat bed thermistor on the 3rd and 4th pin from the right, which should correspond to T1

Now take the Y axis stepper motor connector .








The dedicated pins for stepper motors are located below each stepper motor drivers, the small components with the heat sink.

You will find the markings indicating what stepper motor the driver is dedicated to.

On the top row, you have 3 motor drivers side by side. From right to left you have the dedicated axis:

  1. Axe X (marked X)
  2. Axe Y (marked Y)
  3. Axe Z (marked Z)

On the 2nd row you have here on the picture only 1 stepper driver and a free space for a 5th stepper driver.

Those are dedicated to Extruders, the part of the printer that pushes the plastic to the hot end.

From right to left:

  1. Extrudeur 0 (marked E0)
  2. Extrudeur 1 (marked E1)

Now connect the Y axis motor cable on the middle connector of the first row.

Very important: The stepper drivers don’t support to be powered on without any motor attached to them. doing this will definitely damage the component.

Please make sure to have at least 1 stepper motor connected to each stepper drivers mounted on the electronic board!

If you are using only 4 axis (X, Y , Z, and E0) and you happen to have 5 stepper drivers, mount only 4 of them and keep the 5th one in it’s packaging. It can be of some use as spare part if one of the drivers is failing or damaged.

Now let’s look at X axis stepper motor connector





This one is to be connected on the right of the Y Axis motor on the first row.





Now take the X axis end stop






It has to be connected at the bottom of the first Column starting from the right of the end stop dedicated header pins.




Still on the same machine’s side, you should have the Z axis motor connector left.






The Z axis has 2 dedicated pin header’s rows located under the dedicated Z axis stepper motor driver.

You may want to know that 1 single stepper driver can drive 2 stepper motor at once.

Connect this motor on one of the 2 rows.


(Scalar XL) Still on the same side of the machine, you can connect the static relay to the electronic board.

Start by taking a black cable provided with the static relay.




(Scalar XL) Screw it on the terminal connector with the «  » marking and the number « 4 »

(Scalar M) You won’t have any static relay on Scalar M, so take the 2 power wires coming from the heat bed.




(Scalar XL) The other side of the cable is to be connected on the set of power terminals (here blue) with « D8 » marking.

Each terminal connector of this column is identified by a small marking « + » that identifies the +12V output.

As the wire you have was connected on the « – » of the static relay, locate the terminal connector with « D8 » marking and connect the wire on the connector below the « + » marking. It should be the 2nd connector starting from the top.

(Scalar M) Take any one the 2 silicon heater power wire and plug it to the same terminal (the silicone heater has no polarity, so there is no ‘+’ and no « -« )


On the static relay side, connect now the 2nd wire (it should be red).




Screw it on the last remaining terminal with the « + » marking and identified by the number « 3« .





(Scalar XL) Connect the other side of the wire on the power terminal blocks, on the very first connector starting from the top, just above the previous wire you connected.

(Scalar M) take the left over heat bed power wire and plug it at in this same terminal.


Scalar XL:

On the XL heat bed, as it’s 220V the heat bed is provided with a Ground wire. It’s the one with Yellow and green color.


The purpose of this wire is to link the metallic chassis of your printer to the ground.

Indeed, if the 220V power wire gets broken for any reason and touches the chassis, your electric panel should crack up.

In order to have a proper connection, you need to connect it to any M6 screw on your chassis.

Here is an example on where you can place it! We choose a Metalic Square as it seems they provide the best location for this purpose.








The picture here is giving you some more information with a set of stickers on the wires. It should help you to figure out better where each wire is located







(Scalar XL) Start by separate the wires coming from the static relay and the other remaining ones..





Place the wires on the slot of the vertical aluminum profile.

You can use 2 « long » clips to help you maintain the wires inside the slots as shown on the picture.



Also add the wires coming from Y axis motor as well as it’s end stop inside the same slot on top of the wires attached to the static relay.

You might have to remove and replace the clips previously attached on the aluminum profile.


Now you can also insert the Z axis motor wire and help you with the already in place clips.




You should have 2 set of wires left coming from the X axis.

Keep in mind that those wires will have to follow the up down movement of the X axis.




Take them in your hand.







Take the 2 sets of wires, 1 with 4 wires and the other one with 2 wires. As they will move at the same time, it’s interesting to keep them together and check that there are enough length for them to go up and down the Z axis.




The best is to have the X axis carriage at the lowest or highest position possible so that you can quickly estimate the amount of wire length needed.

Here our carriage is located at the bottom and we roughly evaluate the length of wire we need for it to move up. mark or keep this length (here with our hand on top)



You can secure them by inserting them inside the vertical profile slot by letting them exit either toward the top or the opposite.

Secure them with a clips at the level marked by your hand earlier corresponding to the length needed to move all along the Z axis.



You can secure the wires with cable ties.






Now continue on with the set of wires coming from the hot end.

Place them on the middle of the top horizontal aluminum profile.




To make sure you have left enough free cable to allow the hot end to move freely, place the X carriage at one of it’s right or left limits. Here on the lower right corner.

Make sure to have enough free wire for the hot end to move up and down and also in each corners.



Take 3 clips, 2 long and 1 short.

They will help you to keep all the wires in place in the aluminum profile slots.




Start by securing your wires by placing them inside the top slot of the aluminum profile and use a long clip to keep them in place.





With the second long clip, keep in place the wires up to the electronic display.

You can let free the wires on the side. We will handle them later on.



Take the wires coming from the power supply.

We advise you to twirl the 4 cables together as it allows to easily keep them in place inside the aluminum slots. It also prevent from making any unwanted nodes with other cables later on.



Locate and take the connector from the other Z axis stepper motor that we previously placed inside the vertical aluminum profile. It should exit right next to the power supply if we refer to the previous wiring we did on this part.




Pass it inside the top horizontal aluminum profile and secure it with the last clip you should have.

You can use the already in place clips to secure the remaining of the wire up to the end.




Connect this connector on the pin header dedicated for the Z axis motor, It should be the last one remaining for the Z axis. Here at the top left of the picture.





Take the last stepper connector connected to the extruder motor.

This one must go behind the power supply and follow the sale slot used for the previous Z axis connector.



This should look like on the picture.






Connect it on the last pin header dedicated to stepper motors, below the stepper driver marked with « E0 ».

Here on the second row of stepper drivers on the right.



The cable will go through the same slot as the one used for the last Z axis motor wire.





Now, should remain the power supply power cables to be placed on top of the other stepper motor wires.

The clips should be able to keep all the cables into place.




Connect your wires on the general green power input connectors.

The whole set has polarity so make sure you connect the + output from the power supply to the + input of the board and the same goes for the Ground (minus) output of the power supply to the minus input of the board « + »-> »+ » and « – » -> « -« .

On this picture the blue cables are the « +12V » output of the power supply (yours should be red) and the brown wires are the Ground output of the power supply (yours should be black).



On the green power terminals a clear marking tells you the polarity of each terminal.

In order to emphasize the polarity of each terminal we added some sticker on the photo .

The ground cables (here in brown, yours in black) are to be connected to the « – » terminals.

The +12v power cables (here in blue, yours in red) should be connected on the other terminals marked with « + » sign.



Once all of them are connected it should look like the picture.








Now take the wires from the hot end fan.





Connect them on the output power terminal (here in blue) on the terminals marked with « D9 » which should be the middle terminals.

The red wire corresponding to the +12V should be connected to the terminal with « + » marking (here the 3rd on starting from the top).

Connect the remaining black wire corresponding to the « – » (ground) just below.


On the recent kits this fan might already be provided with a 2 pin connector

If your ramps board is provided with a « Y » shape wire extender then use it to connect the fan connector to the +12V of your ramps board.

Take the wires from the hot end.

The fan in front should be On all the time, so it will be connected to the +12V input of the board.



If you have the « Y » shaped wire extender, conserder using it . Use the following step only as an alternative solution to connect the hot end fan to the 12V Power supply.

The red wire (+12V) is to be connected on the same terminal power inputs marked with « + » along side the wires coming from the power supply.

Here we are using the 2nd green terminal starting from the top.

The black wire for the ground is to be connected to the terminal above with the « – » marking


Regarding the thermistor wire coming from the hot end, it is to be connector on the 2 dedicated pins marked « T0 » at the right of the thermistor dedicated to the heat bed.

Here the screw diver shows where it’s located.





Take the wires of the hot end heater cartridge.

They can be any color (often red or blue depending on the power of the heater cartridge).





The are to be connected on the last power output terminals (here in blue at the very bottom.

The heater cartridge is mainly a resistive element so it has no polarity at all and wires have no + or -, so you can connect them as you want on the last terminals at the bottom.


Now on the inductance probe wire, take the free red wire.





This stand alone wire is to be connected on the « + » marking of the green power input terminals. Take the one you want, here for a better repartitions, we propose to connect it to the green terminal at the very bottom.




The 3 pin connector with only 2 out of 3 pins are connected is dedicated to the Z min end stop.

Note: On certain kits the induction prob is provided with a 2 pin dupont connector (black) with 1 red and 1 black wire.

Warning, This connector has a polarity!

The 2 wires must always be connected on the last 2 rows of pin header with the void unconnected pin left alone for the 1 row.

On the version with 2 pin dupont connector, it must also be connector on the 2 last rows.

The green or red wire corresponds to the probe signal, so it must be connected to the signal dedicated line that is the last row.

The black wire is the ground of the probe. It must be connected to the middle row.