Archives de catégorie : Chassis

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Upgrade – Reinforcement kit for Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium

Kit de renfort pour Scalar L et Scalar XL premium

This page presents the upgrade kit « Frame Reinforcement » for Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium 3D printers

The assembly is very similar for both models, only 1 extrusion profile length is different.

The previous image shows what is the « reinforcement kit » all about.

Kit for Scalar XL premium

  • 2 x 500mm extrusion profiles
  • 1 x 600mm extrusion profiles
  • 2 x 200mm extrusion profiles
  • 8 x simple squares
  • 17 x screws + Tnuts
  • 2 x Extrusion end caps
  • 1 x attachement for PSU

Kit for Scalar L

  • 3 x 500mm extrusion profiles
  • 2 x 200mm extrusion profiles
  • 8 x simple squares
  • 17 screws + Tnuts
  • 2 x Extrusion end caps
  • 1 x attachement for PSU

Assembly

Assembly for Scalar XL Premium

Assembly for Scalar L


Common part

Scalar S – Chassis Assembly

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S

Check the PDF 3D to get a global view of the assembled chassis of the Scalar S

Building the chassis

  • 3 2020 40cm extrusion profiles
  • 2 v-slot Profiles2020 40cm (for Z Axis)
  • 2 Extrusions profiles 2020 30cm
  • 6 small squares
  • 2 Double squares
  • 20 pcs M4x8 screws
  • 20 Pcs M4 TNuts

Use 6 small squares and pre mount the screws and TNuts

Châssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar SChâssis Scalar S


Do the same for the double squares

Châssis Scalar S


Tip

Move the squares on the corners. Yhe Tnut must be aligned with the extrusion profile groove.

Once properly aligned the TNuts will properly fit the groove and the square will naturally take it’s place

 

 

 


When you will tighten the screw, the Tnut will perfom 1/4 turn inside the extrusion profile as shown on the picture.

Check carefully that the TNut has performed the 1/4 turn so it’s properly locked with with extrusion.

 

Make sure the Tnut is properly positioned before finalizing your build.

When you unscrew the screws, the TNut must unlock and perform 1/4 turn on the other side. This will allows you to remove the square and the nut.


Chassis base

For the base of the chassis, you will need to use only 2020 standard extrusion profiles. Keep the Vslot (often black) extrusions for later.


Z Axis

The extrusions on both sides (here on the right and on the left) Are VSlots (often black)

The top extrusion profile is standard 2020 extrusion


Assembling both parts

Top viewChâssis Scalar S


Finish

List of parts

  • 6 end caps

use the 6 end caps as shown on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Start to push them by hand slightly.

 

 

 

 


Push them up to the end. use some force if needed. You may require an hammer to push them completely in some cases.

 

 

 


 

Aluminium spool holder assembly

Aluminium spool holderThis page shows how to assemble the aluminium spool holder of the Scalar 3D printer.

This support is modular and allows to hold the spool in an efficient way.

The aluminium extrusions have very low friction, wich is very nice for the spool to rotate freely.

You can also change/rearange the position of each elements as you wich, so it better fits your application.

list of partsList of parts:

  • 5 Tnuts
  • 5 M6x12 screws
  • 2 3030 square holders
  • 2 200mm long aluminium extrusion
  • 1 spool end stop (green part)

 

 

 


Spool holder assembly

profilé aluminium 200mm de longYou will need 200mm long extrusion profiles

 

 

 

 

profilé aluminium 200mm de longPrepare the square holders with Tnuts and screws

assemblage des profilés

assemblage des profilés

PDF 3D : Spool holder


Assembly on chassis

Installation sur le châssis

Installation sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssis

 

Assemblage du support de bobine en aluminium

Support bobine aluminiumCette page présent l’assemblage du support de bobine en aluminium pour la gamme d’imprimante 3D Scalar.

Ce support de bobine est modulaire et permet de maintenir efficacement vos bobines en place.

Le profilé en aluminium permet également aux bobines de se dérouler correctement avec très peu de frictions.

Vous pouvez également modifier la position des éléments à votre guise afin que ce support puisse convenir à votre application.

liste des piècesListe des pièces:

  • 8 écrous marteau
  • 8 vis M6x12
  • 2 équerres grandes équerres
  • 1 équerre petite équerre
  • 2 profilé aluminium 200mm de long

 

 

 


Assemblage du support de bobine

profilé aluminium 200mm de longPour ce montage vous aurez besoin de profilés aluminium de 200mm de long

 

 

 

 

profilé aluminium 200mm de longPréparez les vis et écrous

assemblage des profilés

assemblage des profilés

installation de la première équerre de fixation

support de bobine en aluminiumNotez l’orientation de cette équerre qui permettra plus tard à votre bobine d’être guidé sans s’accrocher sur les parois de vos bobines.

support de bobine en aluminiumPDF 3D : Support de bobine


Installation sur le châssis

Installation sur le châssis

Installation sur le châssisPensez à serrer vos vis de fixation afin que le support puisse tenir correctement sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssisInstallation sur le châssisAstuce:

Il vous faudra retirer puis remettre l’équerre afin de changer votre bobine.Installation sur le châssisPDF 3D : Support de bobine Installé sur le châssis

 

[Scalar M] chassis Assembly

List of parts

  • 8 x  square holders
  • 32 x M6x12mm screws
  • 32 x  M6 T-Nuts
  • 4 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • 6 x side covers
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

General tips when using 3030 aluminum extrusion

The printer kit chassis is based on Aluminum extrusion of various sizes, of some metallic square holders and a set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 

 


Each square holder is coming with a set of 4 M6x12 screws and 4 T-Nuts .

Mounting square holders :
Off course you can do it many ways, but we will give you here the easier way we found, that allows you to quickly assemble your kit.

 

 

 


Take 2 M6 screws and place them on 2 side by side slots.
Then prepare the T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 


Start to screws the T-Nuts slightly .

 

 

 

 

 

 


The best is to place the T-Nuts so that they are parallel to each other.

 

 

 

 

 


Then approach then from the extrusion and slide them inside the extrusion slot.

 

 

 

 

 


Here is a side view, the nuts must be aligned with the extrusion slot so that they can perfectly fit inside.


Once aligned you should be able to properly fit the nuts inside the slot.

 

 

 

 


When screwing the M6 screws, the nut must perform a 90° angle turn and place lock the whole system as shown in the picture.

It can happen that 1 nut won’t turn properly because of various reasons. Be careful that it fully turns otherwise the lock performed buy the nut won’t be efficient.

So take a few seconds to make sure that each Nut has properly turned 90° inside the slot . When you unscrews the nut, it should perform another 90° angle counterclockwise and allow the whole system to be unmounted from the extrusion profile.


Base assembly (Video)

List of parts :

  • 4 x square holders
  • 16 x M6x12mm screws
  • 16 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 6 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

 

 


Place all the extrusion as shown on the picture.

. Now pre-assembled each of the 4 square holders with their set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 


Here is a zoomed view of each corner of the assembly with pre-mounted square holders.


Screw each square holder on each corners


Here is the chassis base once every square holders are in place.

 

 

 

 

 


Side mounts assembly (video)

List of parts :

  • 2 square holders
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profiles
  • [Provided] 1  Allen key

 

 


Measure 160cm taking into reference the end of 1 corner (On the video we measure 128mm from the inside of the base =>160-30mm = 130mm)

So 160mm is from outside of the base and 130mm (or 128mm) is from the inside.

16cm will give you the proper place where to position the side mounts.


Once in place screw them using a square holder.

 

 

 

 

 


Here are the side mounts once assembled.

 

 

 

 

 


Assembly of the top mount  (video)

List of parts

  • 2 x square holders
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 1 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

For this step, take the longer extrusion profile (50cm) that should be remaining and place it on top of the side mounts.Use a pair of square holders to fix it.
This should look like on the picture.


 

Finish (Video)

List of parts

  •  6 side covers

Take the 6 side covers that look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 

 


Place them in front of the far sides of the extrusion profiles. You might need to push a little bit in order to properly position them.

 

 

 

 


Push them entirely with some force. If you struggle too much use a hammer and slightly hit the flat side of the side covers, then they should get inside easily.

 

 

 

 


Final result

Scalar XL chassis assembly


List of parts

  • 8 x  square holders (2 big and 6 small)
  • 20 x M6x12mm screws
  • 20 x  M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 50cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • 6 x side covers
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

General tips when using 3030 aluminum extrusion

The printer kit chassis is based on Aluminum extrusion of various sizes, of some metallic square holders and a set of screws + T-Nuts.

 

 

 

 


Each square holder is coming with a set of 2 or 4 M6x12 screws and 2/4 T-Nuts .

Keep the big one for the side mounts.
Use the small ones for the base and top.

Mounting square holders :
Off course you can do it many ways, but we will give you here the easier way we found, that allows you to quickly assemble your kit.

 

 

 

 


Take 2 M6 screws and place them on 2 side by side slots.
Then prepare the T-Nuts.

 

 


 

 

 


Start to screws the T-Nuts slightly .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The best is to place the T-Nuts so that they are parallel to each other.

 

 

 

 


Then approach then from the extrusion and slide them inside the extrusion slot.

 

 

 


Here is a side view, the nuts must be aligned with the extrusion slot so that they can perfectly fit inside.


Once aligned you should be able to properly fit the nuts inside the slot.

 

 

 


When screwing the M6 screws, the nut must perform a 90° angle turn and place lock the whole system as shown in the picture.

It can happen that 1 nut won’t turn properly because of various reasons. Be careful that it fully turns otherwise the lock performed buy the nut won’t be efficient.

So take a few seconds to make sure that each Nut has properly turned 90° inside the slot . When you unscrews the nut, it should perform another 90° angle counterclockwise and allow the whole system to be unmounted from the extrusion profile.


 

Base assembly

List of parts :

  • 4 x square holders (small ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 T-Nuts
  • 2 x 40cm extrusion profile
  • 2 x 60cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

 


Place all the extrusion as shown on the picture.

Notice the 40cm extrusion are placed on the sides and so that they are inside the chassis. Also the 60cm extrusions will respectively be placed on top and at the bottom of them. Now pre-assembled each of the 4 square holders with their set of screws + T-Nuts.

 


Here is a zoomed view of each corner of the assembly with pre-mounted square holders.


Screw each square holder on each corners


Here is the chassis base once every square holders are in place. (You should have 4 small square holders)

 

 

 

 


 

Side mounts assembly (video)

List of parts :

  • 2 square holders (big ones)
  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x T-Nuts
  • 2 50cm extrusion profiles
  • [Provided] 1  Allen key

 


 

Take as reference the bottom side of a 60cm extrusion profile, and measure 16cm from it going on the 40cm extrusion.

16cm will give you the proper place where to position the side mounts.

 

 

 

 

 


Once in place screw them using a square holder.

 

 

 

 


Here are the side mounts once assembled.

 

 

 

 


 

Assembly of the top mount  (video)

List of parts

  • 2 x square holders (small ones)
  • 4 x M6x12mm screws
  • 4 x T-Nuts
  • 1 x 70cm extrusion profile
  • [Provided] 1 Allen key

For this step, take the longer extrusion profile (70cm) that should be remaining and place it on top of the side mounts.Use a pair of square holders to fix it.
This should look like on the picture. Notice however that the top mount we present you are 2 x 50cm extrusion profiles attached by a center plastic mount. On your side you should have only 1x70cm aluminum extrusion

Finish

List of parts

  •  6 side covers

Take the 6 side covers that look like on the picture.

 

 

 

 


Place them in front of the far sides of the extrusion profiles. You might need to push a little bit in order to properly position them.

 

 

 

 


Push them entirely with some force. If you struggle too much use a hammer and slightly hit the flat side of the side covers, then they should get inside easily.

 

 

 

 


 

Final result

Build platform assembly

List of parts :

  • 4 LM8UU bearing supports (Plastic)
  • 4 linear bearingsLM8UU (If they are not already mounted on their supports, please mount them)
  • 10 wood screws
  • Scalar XL: 1 wood plate 435x320mm
  • Scalar M: 1 wood plate 300x220mm
  • 4 plate supports (Plastic)
  • 8 M6X12mm screws
  • 8 T Nuts
  • 4 cable ties
  • [not provided] 1 philips screw diver
  • [not provided] 1 hammer
  • [not provided] 1 pen
  • [not provided] 1 ruler (ideally 30 to 40 cm)

Wood plate preparation

List of parts :

  • 4 LM8UU linear bearing supports
  • 4 LM8UU linear bearings
  • 10 wood screws
  • Scalar XL: 1 wood plate 435x320mm
  • Scalar M: 1 wood plate 300x220mm
  • [not provided] screw diver
  • [not provided] hammer
  • [not provided] pen
  • [not provided] ruler (ideally 30 to 40 cm)

 

Scalar XL: Here are the different measurements of the plastic parts below the headbed.:

 

 

 

 

 


 

Scalar M: Here are the same measurements for the Scalar M heatbed

 

 

 

 

 


Note importante:

On he previous pictures, you will notice a red plastic part.  It correspond to the linear bearing holder with a special hole for the adjustment screw.

 

 

 

 


This plastic part is to be placed in front of the smooth rod holders with the embedded end stop. An adjustment screw will later on be installed

 

 

 

 


Take your wooden plate and face it so that the length of it goes from your left to your right and the height from the bottom to the top.

Now consider your starting point to be the lower left corner of the wooden plate.

Scalar XL:Take a ruler and measure 105mm (10,5cm) from the bottom of the plate as shown on the picture.

Scalar M: Same operation but with 15mm (1.5cm)

 


Do the same all along the bottom of the plate in order to trace a straight line parallel to the bottom of the plate.

 

(Scalar XL) 105mm / (Scalar M) 15mm

 

 

 


Take the last point on the right side of the plate.

 

 

 

 


Trace a line from the left to the right passing by all your points at  (Scalar XL) 105mm / (Scalar M) 15mm from the bottom of the plate.

 

 

 

 


Do exactly the same but for the top of the plate:

 

 

 

 


Take some intermediary points:

 

 

 

 


And the last one on the right side.


Now trace again the straight line passing by all your previous points located at (Scalar XL) 105mm / (Scalar M) 15mm from the top of the plate.

 

 

 

 


From the last line measure (Scalar XL) 208mm / (Scalar M) 141mm from the left of the plate right on the line you have just traced at the top of the plate.

 

 

 


Do the same with the line at the bottom :

 

 

 

 


Join both points with a straight line.

 

 

 

 


Now take a your starting point this new line perpendicular to the bottom of the plate. Measure (Scalar XL) 28mm  / (Scalar M) 65mm from the bottom line

 

 


Now trace a quick line of 2 or 3cm parallel at the bottom line.

 

 

 

 


 

bearing placement:

List of parts :

  • 4 LM8UU linear bearings (1 has an embedded hole for an adjustment screw )
  • 10 wood screws
  • Scalar XL: 1 wooden plate 435x320mm
  • Scalar M: 1 wooden plate 300x220mm
  • [not provided] screw diver
  • [not provided] hammer
  • [not provided] 1 pen

Take the first linear bearing and place it along the left side of the wooden plate, jut above the bottom line you traced earlier:( Warning: On this picture the plastic part is outdated)

 

 

 


Take the second linear bearing and this time place it below the top line you trace earlier:

 

 

 


Do the same for the right side of the plate:

Place the belt holder plastic part in the middle of the plate. The back of the plastic part is to be placed on the right of the vertical line you traced on the center of the plate and just above the very last small vertical line you traced.

The picture should be very explicit.

 

 


Here is a view of everything positioned on the wooden plate.

 

 

 

 


Take a pen and make a mark at the location of each screw holes on the plastic parts.

Take one of the wood screw (you can take a bigger one to make it easier for your on this step). Point on each mark and give it a small hammer hit in order to create a starting point for the small wooden screws.

 

 

 


Then take a screw diver and start to insert the screws inside the marked spots. This will help you later on when fixing the different plastic parts, and should make it easier for you.

 

 

 


Once done, place back each elements on the plate.

We advise you to insert only 3 screws by side in order to make it easier later when you will insert the smooth rods.

Here is an example of the left side of the plate with only 3 screws

 


Then start by pushing the 435mm smooth rod along the left side of the bearings.

 

 

 

 


If you aligned everything properly, the smooth rod should get through the 2 linear bearings easily.

In certain cases, the smooth rod is slightly tilted because the bearing support is not properly aligned.Here having only 3 screws will allow you to adjust easily

 

 


Once the smooth rod has passed through the bearing and they are all aligned, you can insert the last 4th wood screw.

 

 

 


Do the same on the right side

 

 

 

 


You should have something like this picture

 

 

 

 


Make sure you insert the last screw.

 

 

 

 


Now place the middle plastic part and insert the 2 wooden screws.

 

 

 

 


 

Positioning of the build platform on the chassis:

 

List of parts:

  • 4 plate supports (1 with an embeeded end stop)
  • 8 M6X12mm screws
  • 8 T-Nuts
  • 1 previously mounted chassis
  • 4 cable ties
  • [provided] 1 Allen key
  • [not provided] 1 ruler

Now take the plates supports

 

 

 

 


Prepare them with 2 sets of M6 Screw/T-Nuts

 

 

 

 


Do it for all 4 parts

 

 

 

 


On each corner measure from the side of the chassis

 

Scalar XL: 72,5mm

Scalar M:  40mm

 

 


Do that on the 4 base corners of the printer:

 

 

 

 


Here is the back right corner

 

 

 

 


Here is the back left corner.

Special Note:

In this corner you will place the smooth rod holder with the embedded end stop .

 

The image shows the end result. The end stop should be in front of the LM8UU linear bearing support with the adjustment screw holder.

 

 

 

 

 


Place the supports inside the slots so that the top cable tie slots are always facing inside the chassis.

The border of the supports is to be positioned on each mark with the body of the plastic parts most on the inside of the printer

 

 

 


Now screw only 2 supports out of 4.The easier way is to screw either the right side or the left sides of the chassis and keep the other side unscrewed.

 

 

 


here is what it should look like

 

 

 

 

This 3D view is more up to date, and shows you where the smooth rods holder are located and also where the holder with the end stop is placed.

 

 

 

 

 


Now place the wooden plate smooth rods on the supports. What might happen is that one side will be slightly outside of it’s support.

The picture shows you an example

 

 


Here is a zoom showing that the smooth rod is not properly aligned with the support

 

 

 

 


In this case you just need to slide the support so that the smooth rod fit into the slot (here we shifted it left).

 

 

 


Then adjust the position of the smooth rod inside the slots.The smooth rods are a little bit shorter so you will need to center them in the middle of their support.

here an example of a smooth rods that needs to be centered:

 

 


Here the smooth rods has been centered.

The main goal is to keep the smooth rods in place using cable ties.

 

 

 


Once properly placed you should have something like this:

 

 

 

 


Slide the plate to both ends to check that everything is smooth.

 

 

 


Once the place is sliding fluently, you can tighten the smooth rods with the cable ties

Make sure to place the head of the cable ties on the side to allow a free movement of the plate.

 

Heat bed assembly

List of parts :

  • 1 Silicone heater
  • 1 aluminum plate
  • 1 insulation sheet
  • 1 cabled thermistor
  • 1 pen
  • 1 pair of scissors
  • 1 hard card (something like creadit card)
  •  Polyamid tape

 

Place the silicon heater (here orange) in the middle of the aluminum plate.

Take a mark so that when you stick the silicon heater to the aluminum plate it’s located at the center of it.

 

 

 


Return the silicon heater and remove the 3M tape protection .

 

 

 

 


Now remove the tape protection from the silicon heater.

Stick the silicon heater in the center of your aluminum plate.

 

 

 


Take some polyamid tape and cut a length to secure the polyamid on the aluminum plate. The length should be the same as the silicon heater.

WIth your hard card apply the plolyamid tape so that it stick both the remaining exposed aluminum and the silicon heater.

 

 

 

This is made in order to make sure that if for any reason the 3M tape is not sticking anymore you still have the polyamid that will keep the whole thing together.

 

 

 

 

 


The end result should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 


 

Position the thermistor in the center of the silicon heater as shown in the picture, and make sure that the thermistor lead wires are as close as possible as the exit of the silicon heater lead wire.

 

 


Secure the thermistor with some polyamid tape so that is stay well stuck under the heater.

 

 

 


With a cable tie you can attached both lead wires together, make sure that the thermistor lead wire is as flat as possible.

Position the cable tie outside of the alimunum plate area.

 

 


 

With polyamid you can secure the remaining part of the silicon heater (here on the left of the picture).

 

 

 


 

Now place the insulation sheet over the whole assembly. The insulating sheet must have it’s side that looks like aluminum foil toward the silicon heater so that all the infra red heat is sent back to the aluminum plate.

 

 

 

 


 

Now with a pen locate the position of the thermistor wire under the insulation sheet.

Once located you need to remove the part of the insulation sheet the is covering the thermistor wire.

The insulation sheet is doing more than just keeping the heat on the aluminum side, it’s also used to compensate the height of the lead wires under the place so that the aluminum side of the heat bed will stay as flat as possible afterward.

 


Return the assembly that you just prepared.

Looking at the machine from the back, make sure that the silicon heater power cable is exiting on the right as on the picture.

You can fix the aluminum plate to the wooden plate using some of the 4 paper clips provided.

 

 


 

In principle the silicon heater cable going out on the side of the plate should look like the picture, the gap between the aluminum plate and the wooden plate should be very little. It’s possible that we provide you with a 2nd polystyren sheet that is thicker to compensate with this gap a little better.

 

 

 

 


By positioning the wires, make sure to make it pass under the bed as shown on the picture.

 

 

 

 

 


Under the wooden bed, place a plastic clip (here the blue part) and make sure to take both the thermistor and the silicon wires inside the clip.

 

 

 

 


Now  fix it on the wooden plate.

The purpose here is to make sure that the cable doesn’t touche the smooth rod and is going just below the plastic support for the linear bearing (here in grey).

This will avoid any long term deterioration on the power cable.

Note The position of the belt tensioner, the clip is places on the opposite side side of the tensioner, the picture here show the back of the machine

In this position push up the plate and make sure that you have enough free orange wire and that he doesn’t hit the timing belt.

We might provide an extra clip to help you make sure it doesn’t hit the belt.

 

 


Connection of the heat bed to the static relay

List of parts :

  • 4 paper clips
  • 1 AC static relay
  • 2 M4 compatible T-Nuts
  • 2 M4x12mm screws
  • (not provided) 1 screw diver
  • (provided) 1 allen key
  •  plastic clips

 


If you look the chassis from behind, make sure the wires exit on the right exposing the fork or round terminals of the silicon heater on the side of the chassis.

 

 

 

 


Now screw the static relay and make sure to place the 2 terminals with the wave marking (with number 1 and 2) the closest to the chassis back.  The terminals with the « + » and « – » markings (also with numbers 3 and 4) are to be placed toward the vertical aluminum extrusion.

 

 

 


Unscrew the terminals with the wave marking and connect the silicon heater terminals to it.

Make sure you take the terminals with either red or blue colors.

Warning: Make sure to connect those terminals to the proper static relay terminals with the wave marking and labeled24 ~380VAC

 

 


Now screw the last silicon heater terminal with it’s associated static relay terminal.

 

 

 

 

 


Take the protection plastic part to secure the terminals.

This part should be labeled « SSRC« 

 

 

 

 


 

One side of this plastic part has a small chamber dedicated to protect the static relay terminals wires wired to the 220V.

The orange wire should be positioned as on the picture.

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Setup of End stops

List of parts :

  • 1 smooth rod support integrating the pre wired end stop.
  • 1 x 8mm (Scalar M) or 10mm (Scalar XL)  smooth rod compatible end stop support
  • 1 End stop with a wheel
  • 2 sets of M6x12mm screw and it’s T-Nut
  • 2 cable ties

 

Assembly of the Y axis end stop

Take the plastic part looking like a hook and clips it over the smooth rod near the X axis motor support .

Here we placed it on the top rod, but you can place it on the bottom one if you feel the end stop doesn’t hit the X carriage

 

 

 


Now take the end stop with the wheel and place it so that the wires are on the outside of the machine toward the stepper motor, and make sure that the wheel is heading toward the smooth rod.

The main prupose here is that the wheel would hit the X carriage to signal to the electronic that the carriage has reached the MIN position on X axis.

 


In order to allow the more natural position of the end stop’s wire, just make sure they go behind the threaded rod, between the threaded rod and the aluminum extrusion as shown on the picture.

Also secure the end stop on it’s support using 2 cable ties.

 

 


Bring the X axis carriage against the end stop and check that the wheel is properly pushed by the carriage and that the probe wire is well positioned.

If the probe wire is causing trouble, you might consider placing this end stop on the bottom smooth rod.

Also check that the end stop support is  not moving on the smooth rod to avoid possible future issues.

 


This picture shows the front view. The end stop is pushed against the x Carriage.

At this moment check that the nozzle position over the heat bed is reaching the border of it. If it’s not the case, just readjust the location of the end stop a little bit in order to achieve this goal.

 


In order to make sure tat the end stop is properly attached to the smooth rod, you can constraint it using the cable tie and secure the end stop lead wire with it as on the picture making sure it’s going behind the threaded rod.

 

 


Y Axis End stop installation

We are going to install here the end stop of the Y axis .

This items should already be assembled . You might need to remove the protective scotch however before using it.

You should have on your chassis 3 identical heatbed smooth rod supports and 1 other with the integrated end stop holder.

It is to be placed on the opposite side of the power supply, also on the opposite side of the Y axis motor on the same extrusion profile.

 


These 2 pictures should help you to locate the proper position of it.on your machine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Now take the M4x20 screw and it’s 2 M4 nuts.

 

 

 

 

 


Place the nut at the middle of the screw thread.

 

 

 

 


Under the heatbed, you should have a special LM8UU linear bearing holder with a hole dedicated to this screw .

 

 

 

 


You should have this support aligned with the end stop holder.

 

 

 

 


Now insert the screw inside up to the nut

 

 

 

 

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Adjust the screw depth so that the nozzle tip reach the edge of the heat bed.

 

 

 

 

 


Secure the Screw using the left over M4 nut.

 

 

 

 

 


(Goodies) Assembly of the Y axis end stop

Now you are going to assemble the Y axis end stop.

Take the plastic support that is compatible with 30×30 slots.

Prepare a set of M6x12mm screw and a T-Nut.

Place the end stop so that the contact side is placed toward the outside of the part. Also  center the end stop so that the dedicated holes on the plastic part for securing the end stop are aligned with the end stop holes.

The photo shows you how to place it.

 


secure it wit 2 cable ties.

A good tip is to make sure that the cable ties heads are placed on the left of the plastic part. The picture should help you to place them properly.

 

 

 


Place the whole assembly on the side of the Y axis motor near the YMI marked plastic part.

The lead wire of the end stop can be placed like on the picture, afterward the motor wires and the end stop wires will follow the some path.

 


 

The inverted view shows how the end stop contact is located and how the wires are going to be placed.

This position is also nice to protect the contact metallic plate from being broken.

 


 

Installation the Y axis end stop finger

Under the heat bed, make sure to be on the opposite side of the heat bed power cable.

Now take as reference the linear bearing support located the closest to the Y axis end stop.

On this photo the Top left linear bearing support

 


 

From this starting point, measure 100mm (10cm) on the right of it and then go down 25mm (2.5cm). Then make a mark.

Then go right again for 10 mm (1cm) and make a 2nd mark.

Both marks will be used to locate the screws for the Y axis finger holder

 


Now take the finger holder and place the 2 wooden screws to secure it in place at the location of the previous marks.

 

A M3X20mm screw and 2 nuts are to be used in order to adjust the Y MIN position of the heat bed.

 

Power supply wiring on chassis

List of parts :

  • 1 long clip (plastic part)
  • 1 short clip (plastic part)
  • 1 spool holder X10 (plastic part)
  • 2 M6X12mm screws
  • 2  M6 T-Nut
  • [not provided ] 1 power supply cable
  • [not provided ] 1 screw diver
  • [provided] 1 Allen key

The best is to rotate the printer chassis as shown in the picture. The purpose is to make it easier to place the T-Nuts inside the aluminum profile Slot.The spool holder is made so that you cannot pre mount the screws + T-Nut before placing the plastic part.

 

 


Focus on the Z axis motor wire.

The goal here is to place it inside the aluminum profile slot.

 

 

 


 

Place it as shown on the picture .

 

 

 

 

 


The other side of the wire must exit on the top of the power supply module.

This cable will then get inside the slot the is maintaining the extruder module.

It should go behind the power supply plastic cover.

 


 

Slide it inside the slot so that it’s in place for the future wiring steps.

 

 

 

 

 


The wiring should look like this.

 

 

 

 

 


 

Connect the end of the 220V power supply plug to the power supply.

Then slide the cable inside the same slot used for Z axis stepper motor wire.

 

 

 


 

Now take a « short » clip.

Those clips are made to be clipped on top of the aluminum profile slot and only secure one side of the aluminum extrusion.

When you place it over the aluminum extrusion you should hear a « click » meaning it’s properly in place.

 

 


 

This clip will be used to secure the base of the cables inside the aluminum extrusion slot.place it just near the z axis motor support.

 

 

 

 


 

Now take a « long » clip.

This model allows to close 3 sides of the aluminum extrusion at once.

 

 

 

 


 

Place it at the other top end of the machine, just behind the power supply module. The U shape must allows you to keep in place wires that are on the side where the use of the short clip would be impossible.

 

 

 


Here, a bottom view showing the long clip in place.

 

 

 

 

 


You now need the spool holder with the « X10″ marking » .

This plastic part’s purpose is to hold and keep in place the plastic filament during printing.

 

 

 


Place it on the side as shown on the picture, perpendicular to the power supply module.

The best is to place it as close as possible from the extruder (so to the top of the machine) .

 

 

 


Here the inclined position should help you to align the T-Nuts with the fixation holes of the spool holder.

You can use a small screw diver to keep the T-Nut in place while inserting the M6 screw.

 

 


 

Once in place, just add the M6X12mm screw.

This should look like the picture.

 

 

 

 


Secure it with a 2nd set of T-Nut/Screw and that’s it..