ZOffset calibration without LCD screen


This article present you the procedure on how to set your ZOffset without any LCD screeen on your Scalar S 3D Printer.

This article presumes that you are using Marlin firmware (RC8 or newer) and a Scalar S 3D printer without LCD screen.


Starting Pronterface

Once unzipped, browse inside the pronterface folder and launch « pronterface.exe » in « Administrator » mode via the right click context menu

Pronterface GUI is starting

ZOffset calibration

Select your printer COM port (mine is COM13)

Push the « Connect » button to start the connection.

If the connection is working properly a list of text and parameters should be displayed on the console output on the right side of the application.

The information we are interested in are:

  • Marlin firmware version (RC8 or newer)
  • ZOffset current value here at the bottom (here is -0.10mm)

In order to adjust Zoffset we are going to print a calibration part compatible with Scalar S and a 1.75mm filament.

Click on the  « Load File » button

Then browse for the file « Scalar_S_Calibration_retraction.gcode » that you previously downloaded

Clock on the « Print » button

If you first layer is still too high you need to:

  1. stop printing by pressing the « Off » button
  2. Change the Zoffset using command M851 Zxxxx with xxxx being the new zoffset
  3. Save the new value using the  M500 command
  4. Start a new print in order to check the effect of the new Zoffset
  5. If it’s still not good, perform again step 2

Here we show how to change the Zoffset by typing command M851 Z-0.3 into the console.We send the command to the printer using the « Send » button located at the right of the text input field.

Note that:

  • In order to lower the nozzle on the first layer your ZOffset must be « Negative« .
  • Decrement the offset using steps of 0.1 or 0.2 (ex: go from -0.10 to -0.30)
  • If your nozzle seems to far away from the bed, consider decrementing of 0.5mm

pronterface auto bed leveling marlin ZOffset

Start again a new print using the « Restart » button

Save your new Zoffset using command M500

Upgrade – Reinforcement kit for Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium


Kit de renfort pour Scalar L et Scalar XL premium

This page presents the upgrade kit « Frame Reinforcement » for Scalar L and Scalar XL Premium 3D printers

The assembly is very similar for both models, only 1 extrusion profile length is different.

The previous image shows what is the « reinforcement kit » all about.

Kit for Scalar XL premium

  • 2 x 500mm extrusion profiles
  • 1 x 600mm extrusion profiles
  • 2 x 200mm extrusion profiles
  • 8 x simple squares
  • 17 x screws + Tnuts
  • 2 x Extrusion end caps
  • 1 x attachement for PSU

Kit for Scalar L

  • 3 x 500mm extrusion profiles
  • 2 x 200mm extrusion profiles
  • 8 x simple squares
  • 17 screws + Tnuts
  • 2 x Extrusion end caps
  • 1 x attachement for PSU


Assembly for Scalar XL Premium

Assembly for Scalar L

Common part

Heatbed upgrade – extrusion profiles supports


heatbed holder

Notice about GT2 pulleys

The gt 2 pulleys on the pictures here are show only as an information. You will install them later on.


List of parts:

  • 3 extrusion profiles supports (plastic part)
  • 1 extrusion support with end stop (pièce plastique)
  • 8 x 625ZZ bearings
  • 8 x  M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 TNuts
  • 4 GT2 16 teeth pulleys
  • 1 cable tie

Assembly process

Take the plastic part

Use 2x625ZZ bearings

These 2 bearings will be inserted inside specific grooves of the plastic part.

How to place the later GT2 pulleys

The GT 2 pulley will then come between the 2 bearings.

Special note:

In order to align later on the belt, the pulley will need to be laid against 1 of the bearings. In order to keep the symetric aspect of this part, you will get a small void between the other side of the pulley and the other bearing.


The location of the pulley will be explained later on

Repeat the same logic on the 2 other parts. You should get 3 identical parts.

End stop holder.

The procedure is the same here

The only difference is the special location where you need to install the end stop

Note however the location of the en stop wheel pointing up.


Warning, this end stop holder has been updated starting Avril 2017

Here is the new version

In order to keep track of previous parts,  here is the old version.(before Avril 2017)

Once assembled

Again the pulleys cann be held right now and are shown only for further comprehension

Preparing the nuts and screws

The final phase here is to prepare all the M6X12mm screws and their Tnuts that we will use later on.

You will need :

  • 8 x M6x12mm screws
  • 8 x M6 Tnuts

The side holes on the plastic parts are used to install these screws and Tnuts


PS_ON kit assembly


PS_ON kit wiring diagram

PS_ON kit wiring diagram

Working principle

This kit allows to electrically switch off your 3D printer when your print are finished

In order to achieve this, a power câble is being instrumented, and a static relay provide enough control for the 3D printer controler to allow this feature to work.

STL of the enclosure

The PS_ON enclosure box is available for download on thingiverse

Wiring in few steps

diagramme kit PS_ON
diagramme kit PS_ON

Detailed steps for wiring in pictures


Modular switch

Power supply coord preparation

Power coord connection to static relay

Soldering of brown and yellow/green wires

After soldering the pairs of electric wires, make sure that the thrincable tubing is placed over the soldering location. Also make sure to thrink the tube using a matches, lighter…

Securing power cables

Signal cable wiring

In certain kits, this wire might already be wired to the static relay unit.

In the other case make sure to cut the 2 pins connector from the cable and to keep the part with the 3 pins connector.

Securing the signal wire inside the enclosure

Closing the enclosure


Connection on 3D printer Controler board(Ramps 1.4)

raccordement du kit PS_ON sur Ramps 1.4

Gcode changes in your slicer (CURA)

PS_ON et Cura

Dual extrusion kit for Scalar 3D printer


Upgrade kit for dual extrusion for Scalar 3D printer

Inside the kit

This dual extrusion kit compatible is compatible Scalar S / M / L / XL and XL Premium 3d printer having E3D Lite hotends

Kit content for dual extrusion on Scalar 3D printers

Y convector assembly

Kit for Dual extrusion on Scalar 3D printers

Y For Dual Extrusion

Y For Dual Extrusion

Installation of the dual extrusion kit over E3D lite hot end

Dual extrusion kit for Scalar 3D printer

Extruder support assembly

location of the extruder on the extrusion profile for DUal extrusion system

Firmware configuration

This tutorial shows how to edit Marlin RC8 firmware .

The procedure is similar for Marlin firmware RC8 and higher

Configuration pour Cura 15.XX

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion systemCura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Cura parameters for Scalar Dual Extrusion system

Scalar L/XL/XL Premium

Paramètres cura pour double extrusion Scalar

M92 X100
M92 Y100
M92 Z2133.33

Scalar S

M92 X100
M92 Y100
M92 Z2560

Questions about first use of your Scalar 3D printers


I Have a small 4 pins wire extender, what is it for?

Are my motors connectors the proper orientation?


I Have a small 4 pins wire extender, what is it for?

For Scalar XL users, you should have a small 20Cm extender wire. It has a 1 male and 1 female connector.

This extender allows to extend the Z axis motor wire which is on the other side of the electronic box.

Are my motors connectors the proper orientation?

Before switching on the electronics, you need to make sure that all the motors are connected . Even the extruder.

The in order to know if the orientation of each connector is good use your LCD screen

  • X Axis: Go into the menu « Prepare>Move Axis> X » and turn the display knob on the positive side (The numbers on the screen should increase). If your axis is going away from the End stop then your motor is connected the proper way.
  • Y Axis: same as  X axis

If it’s not the case you will need to switch off your electronics, turn your motor connector and check again that the motor is moving the proper way.

  • Z Axis: For Z axis, when you increase the value on the LCD the Z axis must move Up. Make sure both Z motor’s connectors are oriented the same way.


Upgrade BLTouch for Scalar 3D Printers


Upgrade BLTouch pour imprimantes Scalar

BLTouch sensor

BLTouch CADThe BLTouch sensor is able to sens the proximity of any print surface.

This sensor needs to be placed vertically as it’s partially using gravity for it’s sensor to go down.

It is equipped with a self and a small pin capable of going down and going up.

BLTouch DimensionsThe sensor is also equipped with some electronics and is able to detect if any error happens or if the pin is locked or stuck to something.

It’s driven using a standard Servo output and it needs +5V to be powered on.

This sensor is capable of deploying itself more than 2mm from it’s closed state. In order to operate the best way possible, you need to place it so that the pin level in closed state is about 2mm from the nozzle.





Plastic parts

All the plastic parts needed are available on our Thingiverse


BLTouch wiring on Ramps 1.4

  • The 3 pin connector is to be connector to the Servo 0 outputs of the ramps

Brown wire is oriented toward the outside of the board and the  Yellow Wire toward the inside of the board

  • The 2 pins connector is placed on the  « ZMIN » end stop input pins.

The white wire is placed toward the outside of the board, and the black wire is connected toward the inside on the middle range of pins.

Avoid any polarity issues and properly respect the wiring schematic here!!

Add a jumper to power up your BLTouch

Firmware changes for Official BLTouch (Antclab) probe

The changes are to be made inside « configuration.h » file of Marlin Firmware

You can download an existing firmware that fits your printer from this page

The example below are made using Marlin RC8 firmware and won’t apply to any previous versions


Firmware for BLTouch Clones

The changes are to be made inside « configuration.h » file of Marlin Firmware

You can download an existing firmware that fits your printer from this page

The example below are made using Marlin RC8 firmware and won’t apply to any previous versions


FAQ : Need some help ?


Frequently Asked Questions

First Setup

Q: An axis do not move in the right direction
A: You need to reverse the plug of that motor on the electronic card

Q: The turbo fan is not working when turning the printer on
A: it is normal, this fan is used when printing to cool down the printed piece.

Q: How can I install the kapton easily ?
A: We recommand to use some glass cleaner, spread it on the bed, put the kapton, remove the bubble with a card (credit card style). Use a cloth to remove extra glass cleaner flowing on the side. You can also use the 200mm kapton easier to install as it covers more space at once.

Q: I have an error on the LCD: « Err: TEMP. MIN PLATE« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: The printer do not detect the temperature of the bed, you need to check the connectivty of the heatbed thermistor (white cable). Is it plugged at the right place ? The cable is not damaged ? You also can check the cable has 80-100 kohm (depending the temperature)

First Print

Q: Where can i get Cura profile for my Printer?
A: You can download them from here

Q: The Heatbed does not heat
A: Make sure the static relay (SSR) is connected to the electronic card on the 12v side and you plugged the 220V connector. When heating there is a red light on the Static relay.

Q: The piece do not stick on the bed
A: Have you used some hair spray or glue ?
If yes you probably need to review the steps to setup the Z offset and increase the value (keep it negative), the lines of the first layer needs to be glued to each other.

Q: The head goes into the bed before the print when getting the points on the bed
A: You need to check the inductive probe is working, There is a red light on it when approching metal like a screw driver. Then make sure it is connected to the proper pin on the electronic card.

Q: The head goes into the bed during the print and scratch it.
A: You need to review the steps to setup the Z offset and increase the value (keep it negative), the lines of the first layer needs to be glued to each other.

Q: How can I detach my print ?
A: There are many possibilities, but always easier when the plate is cold.
– you can use a filling palette to remove the piece, taking off each side but being careful not to damage the tape.
– You can help yourself with a hammer, and use the filling palette as a burin. Always at the base of the piece.
– If the piece is solid with light hammer blow on the piece at the toughest places.
– Sometimes pulling by hand is enough 🙂 Ok we could have started with this 😛

Q: I feel there is too much or not enough plastic going out of the hotend
A: Do you have the proper filament diameter in cura ? 1.75mmfor the filament of the same diameter.
About the 3mm it might be 2.85mm, sometimes it is written on the box, our PLA is 2.85 (AdWire) You have to put 2.85mm in cura.
Ensuit Then it is important to calibrate you extruder for each filament provider, it only takes few minutes and will improve the quality of your prints.

Q : During the prints, the round shapes are more oval shaped
A : This can be caused by different things. First you need to make sure that the base of your chassis is perfectly square. Then you need to make sure that the heat bed is parallel to the base of your chassis. Finally, make sure that the Z axis extrusion profiles are evenly spaced from the edge of your chassis on both right and left sides.

A : The timing delay created by one mechanical part can also be a cause for this issue. When using Helix screws, if you are using a standard coupler, it will generate a delay when turning and compressing itself. To avoid this, you need to use a rigid coupler, such as a claw coupler.

A : Make sure your belt is properly tighten. Also make sure that no plastic part has any breaks or any default that could generate an elastic effect on your axis.

A : After some time, your belt may require to be changed. The belts using reinforced glass fibers are properly fit for this kind of application. Using reinforced steel belts might be too stiff for this kind of application.

Q : the lead screws of my Z axis are oscillating at the top. Is it a normal behaviour?
A : The lead screws are never perfectly straight. More over, when inserting them inside couplers, you may slightly move them from their central axis, creating or increasing the oscillation on the other end of the screw. Make sure to always let them move freely. Otherwise you will create Z Wobble on your prints.


Q : I have Wobble on my printed part  (some waves on the sides of my part), how to fix it?
A : This is a purely mechanical issue. The origin of this issue can be various and tricky to find. The wave effect is due to the Z axis not moving smoothly. There is a delay when the Z axis is changing direction. There is no clear answer for this as it depends how you assembled your printer.

The main tip for this is to to look carefully how each part is moving (the coupler, the nozzle, the carriage, the jaws, etc…) Focus your attention for a moment on each of these points and you should figure out the part causing it.

There is an error on the LCD

Q: I have an error on the LCD: « Err: MAX TEMP« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: This is a security. The head went too hot and has reached the maximum temperature accepted by the configuration. You need to restart the printer to start a new print. You might need to decrease the temperature of the head for this print.

Q : I have an error on the LCD: « Err: Thermal Runaway« . I cannot use the button on the LCD
A: This is a security. The printer tries to keep the head at the temperature specified but the temperature is not stable. check there is no air flow. Check the % of fan for the turbo fan in cura (or other slicer), maybe to high too soon.  You need to restart the printer to start a new print.

A broken part ?

Q: How can I prevent beeing stuck with a broken part ?
A: It is recommanded to print all parts of the printer and store them in case it breaks. (not needed for some parts like the electronic box)

Q : Where can I find the STLs of the parts of my Scalar ?
A: On Thingiverse : Scalar S, Scalar M, Scalar L, Scalar XL, Scalar XL Premium


Q: How to update the firmware ?
A: Follow the guide


3D printer Safety precautions

  • General Safety Caution

    A 3D Printers is a production tool.  As such they needs to be dealt with caution mainly by  adults with no mental handicap. 

    The end user must have a general knowledge of the machine before using it and a special training might be needed in order to use a production tool.

    Kids must be assisted by an adult in order to prevent any accident with the machine.

    Information on this page have been obtained via sources that we feel are reliable, but might be subject to some later updates / changes.

    The way to use, store or build the machine is up to the end user. As such we cannot control the use/build and storage conditions of the machine. We are not responsible for any damages, accident or any other storage / handling related issues, as well as recycling means of the machine.

  • Health consideration

    3D printers are using different kind of materials from different origin and composition.

    Depending on the material,additives, and colorants, the toxicity of the filament may vary.

    PLA; Recognized to be safe and non toxic in it’s natural form, some precautions are to be taken when adding additives or lubricants inside the filament.

    ABS: Recognized as toxic, based on the micro particles it’s emits during the print process. The amount of Styrens and other products generated by the carbonization or certain chemical products, can even form cyanides and other toxic materials.More over a strong smell is created when printing ABS.

    Always use your printer inside a well ventilated room, or with a proper air filtration system. Not all carbon active filters are working. Please refer to a proper Gaz filter, as Carbon filters from extractor hoods are not fit to filter ABS micro particles.

    Never burn 3D printer filament as it can quickly decompose into toxic material when exposed to flame.

  • CE:

Scalar 3D printers are DIY kits provided with no additional protections. As a kit, it cannot be considered as a finished consumer product. CE marking depends on the way the machine was built . As such the following notes must be taken into consideration.

  • Electric safety

The machine include Power supply units with CE markings. They are protected against short circuits and overloads. They must be left untouched of any modifications

3D printers are using 12VDC (very low voltage). This voltage range is outside the scope of the low voltage directive.

Always unplug the power supply from your power outlet before doing any maintenance on your machine.

  • ElectroMagnetic Compatibility (EMC)

Electromagnetic radiations in conduit mode for distributors is not an issue as it is mainly linked to the Power supply.

The electromagnetic compatibility depends on the quality of the assembly, and might need some additional shielding but cannot in any cases be predicted.

  • Mechanical Safety

3D printers contains a lot of moving mechanical parts,  and the torque of the stepper motors is relatively low and should not cause too serious injuries.

However, it is advised to add any protections identified necessary by the user

The easiest and fastest way to secure your machine is to place it inside a closed and well ventilated room with and air extraction system, or to use a box that cover your whole printer with some security access doors.

In order to improve the electric safety of the machine, you might need to add a power switch that cuts off the power when the printer door is opened.

The safety measures for the machine is up to the end user.

Always unplug the main power supply from the grid when doing any maintenance or intervention on the machine.

  • Burn issues

The machine has several heating elements that can reach 140°C for the heat bed and more than 300°C for the hot end. Burn threat is real and have to be taken into serious consideration.

Some hot ends are provided with silicone insulators, that will lower the burn issues. However it might be required to add additional security measures depending of the use cases.

Always make sure the heating elements are cold before starting any maintenance or modifications on your machine

If you get burnt, you can use  Organic silicium G5 Immediately after the burn. This gel is very effective when applied immediately after the burn. More over it’s hydration capabilities makes it great to repair and protect your skin.