Comparison in image between Genuine Bondtech BMG and the copy


When comparing, we can notice several differences:

  • The copy kit seems more complete
  • The provided output adaptor in PLA (for CR-10 versions) is perfect for this kind of application. An aliminum bowden connector can be provided as an option on the original kit.
  • The tensioning spring system is provided with a plastic washer that is attached to the tensioning screw inside the original kit . This prevent you from loosing the spring, which is pretty frequent with the copy version
  • The extrusion gear of the original model is clean, the copy counterpart is full of grease.
  • If we compare both models side by side, we can see slight differences in term of dimensions. The Original version is much better aligned, all the gears cannot hit each others.
  • The extrusion gear on the original version has teeth close fit for the 1.75mm filament. The dedicated zone with the teeth is optimal. On the copy side, this same zone is more evaded, so the contact zone with the filament is less efficient.
  • The filament is better guided on the original enclosure  then on the copy version. You have nearly no play between the teeth and the enclosure. In the other side you have a big gap between the teeth and the enclosure. Flexible filament will likely slip inside the gap on the copy version.
  • Metal insert of the copy version is over molded. This seems to be  better quality at first look. However when it comes to installing the tensioning screw, it’s much more difficult to fit the screw of the copy version because the insert is far back, compressing the spring as the screw has yet hit the threaded insert. It can become tricky to do it. On the original version is quite easy and you won’t even see a problem here.
  • The teeth’s shapes of the reduction gear are sightly different on both models.
  • The Original Bondtech version is also lighter of 8g compared to the copy version! (so it’s about 12% more mass of the original version)
  • The junction between the 2 body sides of the copy version has a play of about 1 to 2m. The original version is well fit.
  • When we close the moving gear latch, we can see that the extrusion gear of the copy version will hit the extruder body . It doesn’t happen on the  Original version.

En conclusion

This comparison is given as information purpose only. It has no mean into telling you which model is better or which one to buy.

This article gives you as much comparison elements as possible. We might have missed some.

Depending on your status, 1 of the 2 models will better fit your need. If you are more budget or performance oriented.

Upgrade double extrusion E3D chimera

Dual Extrusion upgrade – E3D Chimera

Upgrade Double Extrusion E3D Chimera

The kit contains:

  • 1 motor kit+ extruder + stepper motor driver
  • 2 meters of PTFE tubing
  • 1 screw set
  • 1 E3D Chimera kit
  • 1 fan extender board

E3D Chimera installation guide

You will find the installation guide on the E3D official website

Necessary plastic parts

You will find the needed plastic parts on thingiverse. they are compatible with Scalar 3D printers. You will need the following parts:

Hot end installation

You need 3 M3x8 screws in order to attach the hot end heat-sink on the plastic holder Use the screws from the back of the plastic part to hold the hot end in place. 1 M3x20 thermoplastic screw in to be installed on the hole behind the inductive probe support Install you inductive probes Finally, using 3 M3x10 screws, attach everything on the  X carriage starting from the 2nd hole from the top
E3D Chimera Dual extrusion upgrade

Extruders motors installation on the chassis

double extrusion E3D chimera, installation des moteurs d'extrusion
Extrusion motors are to be installed on the top of your chassis You can attache them on the spool holders extrusions as follow.
The 2 pneumatic connectors are to be installed at the output of the extruders. They will hold the ptfe tubing later on. In the kit you should have 2 extrusion gears. Make sure to install them both, 1 on each extruder. the goal here is to have the same extrusion gear on each extruder to make things easier later on. You will need to calibrate your Control>Motion>Estep/mm after you update your firmware.

PTFE tubing installation

You can now install the ptfe Tubing between the hot end and the different extruders. Important note: the left heating block corresponds to the extruder E0, and the right side heating block corresponds to the extruder E1 You need to cut the tube to length so that they are as short as possible and still guaranty smooth motion all over the print volume. A good tip would be to make sure that the hot end nozzle is as low as possible (near touching the bed) before cutting the tube, in order to have an optimal tube length.

Nozzle alignment

You can now align your 2 nozzles:
  • Make sure that your X axis is as parallel to your heat bed as possible
  • Lower the hot end until 1 nozzle is touching the bed
  • Using the 2 small screws on the side of the heat-sink, you can adjust the 2nd nozzle to that it also touches the bed.

Electronic wiring

Here is the wiring diagram of the E3D Chimera dual extrusion upgrade
Dual extrusion E3D Chimera Wiring diagram

Extruder 2 (E1) installation

You first need to install the driver for your new extruder motor on the remaining driver slot. Warning! Carefully note the driver orientation, the location of the small heat-sink and the small round potentiometer. They must be on the same orientation as the other drivers

Stepper motor driver calibration

You will now calibrate the stepper motor driver using a Ceramic screws driver (provided with Scalar L/ XLP)

Reminder on the Ceramic screw driver

This screw driver is electrically insulated. It’s used to adjust potentiometers when powered If you are using a standard non insulated screw driver you may damage your stepper driver.
tourne vis céramique
For the calibration purpose you will also need a multi-meter with the  2V DC caliber selected  (or similar).
  • Place the multi-meter black probe on the  USB connector metallic shielding of the arduino board (blue) located below the Ramps board (red).
  • Place the red probe over the small round potentiometer located next to the heat sink
  • Measure the voltage, you want 0.850mV
  • Using the ceramic screw driver, turn the potentiometer clockwise to increase the voltage.
  • Turn counter clockwise to decrease the voltage.

Fan extender board installation

RRD fan extender
This board is used to replace the power transistor that you re-used for your second hot end heater cartridge. You will need it to power your PLA cooling fan. Install it over the « servo » extension pins on the ramps 1.4 board (same for MKS gen boards)
This board need an external power supply in order to work. You need to unplug the E3D 30mm cooling fan from the « Y » shape splitter cable. Connect another « Y » splitter cable to it and plug back the 30mm fan to one of the available end. On the remaining end, connect the 20cm Female-Female extender cable. The other end of the cable is to be connected to the 12V input of the fan extender board (here on the left) Warning! take precautions with the polarities! Now connect the PLA cooling blower fan on the D11 location on the fan extender board.

Firmware upgrade

You need to upgrade your firmware in order to take into account your 2nd extruder. The upgrade procedure is located here The compatible firmware are labeled « Dual extrusion Chimera » If you 3D printer version / model is not listed, please make sure to contact us so that we can provide it.

Precautions after upgrading your firmware

  • Check that all your stepper motors are still turning in the proper direction. If not, just flip the motor connector on the electronic board side.
  • You will need to move the location or your existing X axis end stop. Push the hot end left until the right nozzle is located on the edge of the left side of the bed.  The left nozzle must get outside of the bed area. Now push the end stop against the X carriage and you are set.
  • You will also need to adjust ZOffset before printing. The probe tip must be around 1-2mm above the nozzle tip.
Boitier électronique pour cartes MKS GEN

Electronic enclosure for MKS GEN 1.4 and GEN-L board


Scalar Boîtier électronique MKS

We have recently published a new electronic box compatible with Scalar S / M / L XL / XLP.

Where to download it?

This box is available for free download on our dedicated Thingiverse page:

What’s news with this enclosure?

It is compatible with these controller boards

You can also include a Raspberry pi 2 / 3


What are the differences with the previous enclosure?

  • The USB connector is now on top
  • The enclosure is slightly taller
  • The enclosure is thinner
  • 2 specials holes are dedicated for LED WS2812 that will give you a visual status on your printer status.

How to assemble the box?

boîtier MKS pour Scalar

It contains 7 plates

  • 1 base where all the other plates will attach (compatible with 3030 extrusions or 2020 depending which version you print)
  • 1 front facade where the RepRapDiscount LCD2004 screen will fit
  • 1 bottom side that will fit 3030 extrusion profiles or 2020 extrusion profiles (check which version you print)
  • 2 side plates
  • 1 top plate (Top) with a dedicated hole for MKS USB cable
  • 1 back plate (2 models):

This last plate contains also

How to attache plates together?

you will need a few plastic screws

What are the tips and limitations to know?

  • The bottom plate can be glued to the base. 2 screws can be used to hold things together while the glue is setting. You can remove these screws afterward when you will need to place the enclosure on top of an extrusion profile
  • The base plate and the bottom plate are compatible only with 3030 extrusion profiles.

How many print hours do i need to make the enclosure?

You will need (with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.2mm layers):

  • +3 hours for the front plate
  • 2h30 for the base
  • 1h30 for each side plates
  • 2 hours for each remaining plates (3 plates)

For a total of about 13h of printing

Can i buy the enclosure already assembled?

The enclosure is available here

MKS TFT 28 update screen

MKS TFT 2.8 firmware updates


This page contains the list of updates for your MKS TFT 2.8″ displays

List of firmwares

Update process

  1. Unzip the files in the base folder of a SD card
  2. The file structure at the root of the sd card should look like this:
  3. Structure de fichier pour la mise à jours de l'écran MKS TFT 2.8
  4. Insert the sd card on your display and boot it. If it’s already on, you will need to reboot it in order for the update to start.
  5. The update process should take a few minutes.
  6. Once finish the screen will reboot and will be ready to use.

LCD screen customization

You can customize a lot of thing on your display. everything is inside file mks_config.txt.

Depending on the versions you should have different or new parameters based on functionalities.

The UPS, WiFi module, DET module are handled in this config file.

Once the configuration file edited, just copy/past the file on the root folder of your SD card and reboot your display.

Protect your 3d printer fans


Protecting your 3D printer fans is increasing the lifespan of your 3D printer!

Protecting them from what?

  • From dust that can:
    • Reduce the performances of the fan
    • Increase fan’s coil temperature
    • Generate vibration due to non homogeneous dust repartitions
    • Making your fan noisy
  • From screw driver hitting the blades (when we have to tinker something)
  • from your fingers or any other object touching the fan’s blades

How to protect them?

filtre à air pour ventilateur 40mm

Important points about dust filters:

They will protect your fans from dust but might decrease maximum airflow by doing so.

So make sure to never use dust filters on Hotends cooling fans as they always need to keep their maximum airflow.

in this case consider cleaning them often manually.

grille de protection pour ventilateur 30mm

  • Against screw drivers hitting the blades


Trinamic logo

TMC2100 / TMC2130 / TMC2208 are here


TMC (TMC2100 / TMC2130 / TMC2208) family are here!

These famous silent stepper drivers integrate the following advanced features:

Features in detail:

Here is the description of each feature

  • StealthChop & Spreadcycle

StealthChop allows to have silent and performant stepper motors 

Stepper motors running at low speed show a phenomenon called magnetostriction producing high pitch audible frequencies.

The driver is regulating the voltage modulation of the motor in order to minimize current fluctuations. The resulted noise level is around 10dB(A) which is lower than standard modes.

The Stealthchop performances are described in details here: Pdf available here

Torque Comparison between StealthChop vs Spreadcycle (disponible en pdf ici)

TMC SpreadCycle Vs Stealthchop comparison chart

Comparison chart between both modes SpreadCycle Vs Stealthchop

Here is a summary chart showing you which mode is better suited for your application

For low speeds and average acceleration: use mode Stealthchop

For average/fast speeds and accelerations : prefer mode SpreadCycle

SpreadCycle & Stealthchop comparison chart, pros and cons

SpreadCycle & Stealthchop. Pros and cons

here is the official video about Stealthchop and SpreadCycle

  • Stallguard2 & Coolstep

– full documentation of StallGuard2 & Coolstep available here

Stallguard2 Allows to senselessly measure with high precision the load resistance using back EMF feedbacks inside the motor coils.

In order to get reliable measurements, the stepper motor must work in micro stepping mode.

Coolstep adapts the current inside the coils based on the load on the motor shaft measured  Stallguard2 . The energy consumption can be reduced by 75%. Heat dissipation is also greatly impacted.

Here is another official video showing Stallguard and Coolstep modes

About Coolstep:

When an open loop driver is about to loose a step feature DcStep will reduce the motor speed in order to adapt to the load. DcStep maintains the motor position and step count.

A working range is needed in order to make sure the feature is functioning properly so that the motor torque and speed are maintained in a reasonable range.

With this feature, the stepper motor is acting as a DC motor in terme of energy efficiency.Meaning that the speed is reduced if the load is too high in order to increase motor’s torque.This allows to keep the motor position and step counts.

This mode is used in average or high speed ranges

Here is a graphic showing the working range of DcStep

Plage d'application du mode DcStep des drivers TMC

Plage d’application du mode DcStep des drivers TMC

SPI cable for TMC2130

This cable is compatible with Ramps 1.4 / MKS GEN 1.4 / MKS GEN-L and is available here

It allows to connect 2 TMC2130 drivers to the SPI port (often used for X/Y axis).

TMC2130 SPI cable for 2 motors

it’s connected to the AUX-3 of the Ramps 1.4 board

Special Note about the SPI cable:

With Ramps 1.4 Using this as is requires that you don’t use any LCD screen as the SPI channel will be used / link with the LCD screen. You can still use this port + LCD screen if you somehow manage to attach the wire on top of the LCD connector bread board.

If you are using MKS GEN boards, you will have a separate sets of pins available and you will be able to use LCD screen without soldering.

Note however that pin D49 (black wire) is used for the SD card detect pin so it will be already in use when you will configure your Y axis driver!

Also note that pin D53 (Blue wire) is used for the SD card Init pin so it will be already in use when you will configure your X axis driver!

The workaround is to remove the black wire from the 2×4 pins connector and connect it to pin D44 on the AUX-2 .

Same for for the blue wire, connect it to D42 on the Aux-2

Tip with the Dupont housing:  With the TMC2100 drivers you should already have a 4 pins cable with separate pins. You can remove 1 single pin black dupont connector housing and use it on the black wire you have just rewired.

On marlin side you just have to reroute the D49 pin to D44 and D53 into pin D42

Go into pins_RAMPS.h around


#define Y_CS_PIN 49


#define Y_CS_PIN 44

Marlin workaround 2Way spi wable Ramps 1.4

Also change

#define X_CS_PIN 53


#define X_CS_PIN 42

Marlin workaround 2Way spi wable Ramps 1.4

TMC Comparison chart

Comparison with Trinamic TMC drivers

Upgrade CR-10 double Z

[CR-10] Dual Z Upgrade for CR-10


This page shows how to install the Dual Z Upgrade kit for CR-10 sold by 3D modular Systems.

This kit allows to install a 2nd Z axis stepper motor on your Creality CR-10 3D printer.

It will give you better print quality, and will increase Z motion precision.

THis upgrade is very important if you plan to use some auto bed leveling sensor such as  BLTouch

Kit content

Dual Z Upgrade for CR-10

  • 1 motor kit
  • 1 screw kit
  • 1 lead-screw + nut
  • 1 motor splitter cable
  • 1 plastic kit

Step 1 – Un-mounting

The main idea is to install the copper nut for the lead screw. For this you need to un-mount the right side of the X axis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

This is the part with the belt tensioner

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Using the hex key provided with the printer kit, totally un-mount the right side of the wheel system.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the 2 screws that are holding the x axis extrusion profile.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step 2 – Installing the upgrade

You should have this part after un-mounting the axis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the black screws provided inside the upgrade kit and install the Eccentric nut

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Place back the eccentric nut inside the dedicated hole on the metal plate. Place the nut’s round part inside the metallic groove.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

insert the wheel

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the upgrade’s kit spacer

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Important! Make sure to use the spacer provided with the upgrade kit! Don’t use the one from the existing axis as both spacers don’t have the same height!

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Take the plastic part with the copper nut and a nylstop

Place the wheel on the screw and then a spacer before assembling both parts

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Just insert slightly the nylstop. Keep the nylstop loose!

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install both parts on the chassis. Also note that the nylstop here is still loose.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

On the other side, install 1 other screw from the upgrade kit.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

From left to right, install the following parts:

  • 1 spacer from the original kit (CR-10)
  • 1 wheel
  • 1 spacer from the upgrade kit (10mm)

Upgrade double Z CR-10

do the same for the bottom.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install 2 nylstops, and then tighten them using flat pliers.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

In order to adjust the eccentric nut, you will need a size 10 flat key, or flat pliers if you don’t have this kind of keys.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Turn the key in 1 direction or another in order to adjust the location of the wheel.

The wheel must be in contact with the Z axis extrusion groove.

Once properly set the Z axis must slide up and down freely with very little play.

Once in place tighten the nylstop nut.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Seen from the front, the 2 Tnuts must be accessible.

We will now connect the X Axis extrusion

Upgrade double Z CR-10

From the back, turn the nuts so that they fit inside the extrusion.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

On the other side, Insert the hex key inside the dedicated hole to access the screw head.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step3 – Stepper motor installation

Mount the stepper motor at the base of the chassis.

Make sure that it’s perfectly aligned with the Nut and is laying perfectly flat on the base of the chassis.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Screw the motor on the vertical double extrusion profile.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Take the blue coupler

Note that the coupler has 2 holes with different diameters.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Also note that the motor shaft has some flat area.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Align the coupler screws with the motor’s shaf’s flat area

The small diameter of the coupler is to be used on the motor shaft.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use the leadscrew now.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Insert it from the top and let it spin freely to the bottom

You can use some lubricant if needed. (fine oils for screwing machines)

Upgrade double Z CR-10

The lead-screw must go down strait into the coupler.

Tighten the coupler screws

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Install the top Z axis idler

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step4 – Z axis alignment

Use some flat object (here some kapton tape).

Place it on one side, and move down the axis until the bottom part of the x axis is touching the object.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Do the same on the other side.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step 5 – Electronic wiring

Connect the stepper motor cable.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

You are going to put your hands inside the electronic box. Make sure to disconnect the electronic box from your  power plug!

At the bottom of the electronic box you will find 5 screws to remove.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use a hex key to remove them.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Upgrade double Z CR-10

In order to remove the Power supply, you need to remove the 4 screws on the side of the electronic box.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the power supply from the top.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

At the top, near the LCD, you will find the main board.

Locate the Z axis cable

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Remove the Z axis wire and replace it with the splitter cable

Make sure to place the red wire facing top.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Connect the Z axis cable to 1 end of the splitter cable.

Take the splitter so that the red wires are facing down.

On the Z axis cable you should see some clips on 1 side.

These must be facing you

Upgrade double Z CR-10

At the back of the electronic box, you have 2 metallic connectors and 1 wires output

Insert the stepper motor black connector inside this last hole.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Once inside the cable must follow the other cables

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Connect it with the last end of the splitter wire

The red wire from the stepper motor must be connected with the red wire of the splitter wire

Upgrade double Z CR-10

You can use some tape in order to make sure the 4 wires are held together

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Use some cable tie to make sure the internal cables are properly held on the box.

Upgrade double Z CR-10

Step6 – Stepper motor calibration

Using the ceramic screw driver provided with the upgrade kit, you need to adjust the stepper driver current for both Z axis motor to be working.

tourne vis céramique

The best practice is to use a voltmeter

If you have a voltmeter, use the caliber closest to 2V DC .

Place the « + » probe directly on the metallic cap of the driver potentiometer.

Place the probe « – » directly on the GND terminal of the power supply where the big black cable is located at the bottom.

Warning! The next step requires the electronic box to be powered on!

Make sure to use the ceramic screw driver as it’s insulated. any other screw driver may damage the driver.

Power on the electronic box, measure the voltage as explained above.

Using the ceramic screw driver, turn clockwise so that the voltage is reaching about « 1Vdc »

Using the LCD screen, lift up and down the z axis (prepare>Move axis >Z)

If the Z axis is moving freely then you are done. If not you may need to slightly increase the voltage.

If you don’t have any voltmeters, using the LCD screen, lift up and down the Z axis.

Turn clockwise until both stepper motors are able to properly lift the Z axis

Once finished you can power down the electronic box, unplug the power coord, and screw the electronic box back to normal.

You are done!

CR-10, 220V 600W

Heat-bed upgrade – 600W / 220V for Creality CR-10 / E10 3D printer


This page describes the way to setup this 600W / 220V silicone heat-bed upgrade from 3D Modular Systems . This upgrade is compatible with Creality CR-10, also potentially compatible with Anet E10

Upgrade content

  • 1 silicone heat-bed 220V / 600W
  • 1 static relay
  • 1 Grounding kit
  • 1 cable tie kit
  • 1 spiral cable tie

Heat-bed disassembly

Remove the glass from your bed.

Remove all 4 screws from your heat-bed

Return your heat-bed

Place the silicone pad so that the holes fits the bed screw holes.

Remove the protective film

Make sure to place the silicone pad so that the power supply cables are placed on the same corner as the original cables.

Note here the location of the power supply cables.

Re-use of the existing wiring

The main purpose here is to re-use the existing wiring

You have several choices here:

  • Simply cut the power supply wires (Red and Black)

Make sure not to cut the 2 small white wires!

  • Or un-solder them from the PCB bed

Separate the 2 power wires from the temperature sensor.

Insulate the heat-bed

The more efficient way is to use simple aluminum foil for cooking.

Warning! the aluminum foil has 2 different faces

  • 1 shiny side
  • 1 mat side

Use the shiny face so that it faces the black side of your bed.

The mat face has to face you.

Using a fine cutting device, carefully remove the excess of aluminum and open up the dedicated square holes .

Secure everything using kapton tape.

Kapton tape is specially made to handle high temperatures

It is also a great electric insulator.

Make sure to use proper tape

Place 4 Kapton strips along the sides of the bed in order to properly secure the whole system over the black heat bed surface.

Using a fine cutting device, you can remove the excess of tapes on the corners

Finally place a diagonal strip to secure everything.

Re-install the heat-bed and the glass.



Cut the sheath holding the power wire and the thermistor. Use a simple pair of scissors.

Make sure to cut only the sheath. Avoid cutting the wires inside the sheath!

Use a pair of cable ties to secure the thermistor wires with the bed power wires.

You can use the spiral sheath to secure the wires.

Static relay installation

Remove the blue extrusion cover located inside the left side of the chassis, at the back.

Cut about 8 cm

Static relay installation without cover

Install the static relay using a pair of M4x8mm screw and a T-nut.

Take special precautions on the orientation of the relay. The 3-32VDC side has to be facing the Z axis stepper motor. The 220V side must  point toward the outside of the chassis.

Connect the Red wire of your heat-bed that you previously cut and connect it on the « + » terminal of the static relay (terminal number 3)

Also connect the Black wire from your heat-bed (that you also previously cut) on the « – » terminal of the static relay (Terminal 4)

Make sure to take into account the polarity on the static relay!

Wire both Terminals from the 220V silicone bed on the static relay terminals . Here there is no polarity

You should have a red enclosure provided with the static relay . You just have to position the static relay on the side where the silicone bed power wire are going out.

If you have this red enclosure you can skip the next few steps that tells you how to connect you heatbed to you static relay.

Make sure to insulate the 220V  of the static relay using Kapton tape.

Ground wire installation.

You will need a pair of washer, 1 M4x8mm screw and 1 T-nut.

insert the screw and the washer inside the ground wire round terminal from the heat-bed.

Take the 2nd ground wire provided

Connect the 2 ground wires at the same location on the chassis, here pointed by the arrow.

The last washer is inserted at the bottom. The T-Nut allows to secure the ground wires on the chassis.

The 2nd ground wire has to be attached under the heat-bed.

Unscrew the adjusting knob under the bed, on the corner near the static relay.

The 2 washers allows to make contact between the ground wires and the metallic side of the bed.

1washer o each side of the ground wire terminal.

The adjusting knob secures everything.

you can use the spiral sheath in order to finalize the wiring.

That’s all!

You can use your heat-bed now.

On the electronic side you have no changes to make.

You heat bed should reach the following temperature

  • 60°C in less than 1 minute 10 seconds
  • 110°C in less than 3 minutes


Z axis Alu upgrade – back aluminium sliders installation


Aluminium Z axis upgrade for Scalar L / XL Premium

Left side assembly (X axis motor side)

machoire aluminium pour imprimante 3D Scalar


Right side assembly

Setup your Firmware parameters

The TR10x2 trapezoïdale leadscrews requires new ZStep/mm settings on your firmware

Through your LCD display,go to Control>movements>Zstep/mm>1600

Trap lead screws requirements

Make sure to lubricate the leadscrews as well as your Igus nuts using PTFE lubricant, grease, or even Fine oil for small mecanism


List of 3Dtox nozzles tips for your 3D printer



3Dtox is a filtration system that is filtering most of particles generated by plastics used on 3D printers.

The system allows to suck and filter most of the particles generated though an adapted filter. This filter is able to cope with most of the particles and gazes generated by 3D printers filaments

our study (available here )allows to understand what kind of gazes/particles are emitted by 3D printers filaments such as ABS. It also describes what kind of filter to use in order to safely cope with these.

3Dtox also integrates a builtin display that will give you the printing time duration and will also tell you when to change the integrated filter to keep the best performance possible.

How to get 3Dtox

3Dtox  is available on our website here:


3Dtox kit allows to integrate the system on most reprap 3D printers on the market. Thanks to specially designed nozzle tips that will suck the generated particles as close as possible from the 3d printer nozzle.

If you cannot find any nozzle tips for your machine, please make sure to contact us at so that we can design a nozzle tip for your system.

Available nozzle tips

3DTox Nozzle tip for CR-10 3D printer


3DTox - Hephestos 2